Hello, we completed the Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago, this past June 2021. We continued walking to Muxia. It was an wonderful Camino, and probably our favorite route. Asturias is a beautiful part of Spain and certainly one of my favorite regions for the green pastures, wildlife and the chestnuts. The hospitality of the people in Asturias is a balm for the weary Pilgrim. Services on the Primitivo are not as readily available when compared with the Frances. There are short kilometer days, but there will be stages when you will have to walk longer miles. That is the way of the Primitivo. Oviedo to Grado is a pretty fair walk, unlike Grado to La Espina where you traverse more mileage. You have the option of staying in Salas, and this may be more to your needs. From La Espina to Tineo is very pleasant. We stay in Campiello at Casa Herminia, not far from the Hospital route. Sra. Heminia is an award winning chef and her food and hospitality are not to be missed. El Hospital is gorgeous route. You will need to carry plenty of food and water to sustain you. However, there is the alternative Polla de Allande route that you may want to consider. In La Mesa, we stayed at the Alberque Miguelin where Sra. Conchita is a Wonderful hospitalera. The food is also very, very good. From La Mesa, you walk to Grandas de Salime. We are very adventures so we kept walking, and walking, and walking to Fonsagrada, my favorite stop on the Primitivo. The best restaurant on the Primitivo, Restaurante Cantabrico, is in Fonsagrada. This is food at its finest with fresh produce grown in the owner's garden, and mushrooms foraged locally. Every dish is cooked to perfection and the portions are pilgrim generous. Yes, this restaurant is a must stop on the Primitivo. In Fonsagrada, we stayed at the Pension Casa Cuartel. I was very impressed with the accomodations and would stay here again on a heart beat. During June, the municipal albuergues were closed due to the COVID-19 health measures, however, these may open by September. From Fonsagrada, it's a leasurely walk to O'Cadavo, where the hospitality of Mary awaits you at the Porta Santa Albergue. For delicious food, I recommend El Restaurante Neireo where Carmen will serve you a feast of goodness that is nourishing for the body and the soul. Next is the big city of Lugo where plenty of services await you. The only caution is to be mindful of holidays and such when rooms may be in short supply. From Lugo, we walked to Castaneda. Here Veronique and her mom offered up an amazing Pilgrim's feast and a great place to rest at the Albergue/restaurante Santiago. From Castaneda to Melide, and the last 100 kms to Santiago, your options for food and accomodations are plentiful. I trust this quick summary is enlightening as you meditate on the Camino that is right for you.
A note on COVID-19 testing to return to the USA. In June there were no testing sites at the Airport in Santiago but affordable testing was available at the Airport in Barajas. We paid an enormous amount of money to get our (throat swab) tests done in Santiago. There are many testing sites in Santiago and often the airlines will have a link to these 3rd parties with special discounts available. Our testing site was clean, friendly, efficient. Everything went well, without a hitch.
!Here is to your Buen Camino, Peregrina!
. I like my cheese with tomatoes and Spanish olives. Frutas secas: dates and nuts are also great options. The potatoes are creamy. The empanadas de vegetales are excellent. And don’t get me started on the mushrooms. Amazing scrambled eggs with mushrooms on most menus. The owner of El Cantabrico in Fonsagrada has an excellent menu with fresh veggies that he grows in his private garden and he also forages for mushrooms in the forests. There are delicious asparagus and alcachofas ( artichokes) drizzled in delicious 
olive oil. If you enjoy veggies and/or eggs and/or fish, you will feast on the Buen Camino! Need I say more?!!
