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Primitivo - Any updates on the albergue situation?

tomas2019

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2019
I plan to tackle the Camino Primitivo in September. I was wondering if anyone knows the albergue/refugio situation along this route. In the best of times the albergue availability was sparse. I was just wondering if Covid brought on more closures along this Way, thereby making the trek a bit more challenging.

As always, any information is welcome.

Buen Camino......
 
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Álvaro Lazaga, a Spanish peregrino from Benidorm, is currently walking the Primitivo “backwards” on his way home. You can get a sense of the conditions and nunbers. I have not seen them all, but I just watched Ferreira to Pociña de Muñiz.

Pergrino Alvaro you are so lucky to be doing the Camino again.Saludos.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
From what I understand from Paul Garland hospitalero at the municipal in Grado is that since opening on July 1st the albergue has been Covid full every day.
I met Paul yesterday and he was kind enough to direct me to la Quintana. I think that all donativos and municipal are already booked but still there are other albergues that are opened :)
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
From what I understand from Paul Garland hospitalero at the municipal in Grado is that since opening on July 1st the albergue has been Covid full every day.
When you say “Covid full” do you mean that they are allowing fewer pilgrims and reaching the maximum each day?
 
I met Paul yesterday and he was kind enough to direct me to la Quintana. I think that all donativos and municipal are already booked but still there are other albergues that are opened :)
As in booked in advance or are they still first come, first served?
 
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I was planning to start the Primitivo in early September 2021. With the upswing of covid-19, I'm concerned. Does anyone have information about the situation from Oviedo to Santiago?
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Booked in advance.
Would you recommend trying to make reservations now for September, or would a day or two in advance once I'm actually walking be enough? I have secured my first night's reservation in Amandi (just outside of Villaviciosa) and Sergio there has been very helpful so I'm sure he could help me line up the next few nights from his albergue.
 
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Would you recommend trying to make reservations now for September, or would a day or two in advance once I'm actually walking be enough? I have secured my first night's reservation in Amandi (just outside of Villaviciosa) and Sergio there has been very helpful so I'm sure he could help me line up the next few nights from his albergue.
I can't imagine that you need to book now for September but a couple of days before may be needed.
 
I can't imagine that you need to book now for September but a couple of days before may be needed.
I did my Primitivo in August-September (2018), then the only albergue I should have felt more comfortable having reserved was at Castro, as I got the last bed. Otherwise no problems, but of course no pandemic at the time…
 
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I plan to tackle the Camino Primitivo in September. I was wondering if anyone knows the albergue/refugio situation along this route. In the best of times the albergue availability was sparse. I was just wondering if Covid brought on more closures along this Way, thereby making the trek a bit more challenging.

As always, any information is welcome.

Buen Camino......
I also plan to do the Primitivo in September after the San Salvador.
 
Álvaro Lazaga, a Spanish peregrino from Benidorm, is currently walking the Primitivo “backwards” on his way home. You can get a sense of the conditions and nunbers. I have not seen them all, but I just watched Ferreira to Pociña de Muñiz.

I have always wondered how one might find the way going backwards since most of the arrows are facing just one direction, i.e., forwards. I guess one would have to keep looking back as one walks.
 
I have always wondered how one might find the way going backwards since most of the arrows are facing just one direction, i.e., forwards. I guess one would have to keep looking back as one walks.
Apps with gps maps of the route can really help with staying on course.
 
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Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
I have always wondered how one might find the way going backwards since most of the arrows are facing just one direction, i.e., forwards. I guess one would have to keep looking back as one walks.
I've always wondered exactly the same, stinmd. Sometimes it's hard enough finding arrows when walking the right way, but to walk a camino in reverse.... wow!
 
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Yes. Depending on the region 30-50% of normal capacity hence reason for booking.
Yesterday I stayed in municipal albergue in Lugo they said that since 7th of July they are not taking any reservations , today I am staying in as seixas municipal one and it is the same story . I think it is quite positive change .
 
Yesterday I stayed in municipal albergue in Lugo they said that since 7th of July they are not taking any reservations , today I am staying in as seixas municipal one and it is the same story . I think it is quite positive change .
The reason for the change is that their line system wasn't working properly.
 
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Yesterday I stayed in municipal albergue in Lugo they said that since 7th of July they are not taking any reservations , today I am staying in as seixas municipal one and it is the same story . I think it is quite positive change .
Are the albergues at max capacity? How many pilgrims? Are any of the albergues doing communal dinners? Things will change between now and September when I go, but I'm trying to get a sense of the current situation. Any info would be a huge help, thanks!!!
 
I'm officially at the "I'm overthinking this" stage of planning, but I leave for Spain next week and all I can think about is the Camino! I plan to book ahead, and wanted to get the first two or three nights sorted out before I left the States. I'm going to try out the new albergue near the cathedral in Oviedo (I'll report back and we'll see if it's worth the 20 euros. Pricey, and more than I typically spend, but I'm telling myself this is just going to be a different sort of year).

My question, in case anyone happens to know the answer, is about the first stage out of Oviedo. I'm aiming to stop in either Grado or make it a looong first day to land at the monastery in Cornellana. Both places I'm looking at- the donativo in Grado and the albergue in Cornellana- are open (at least for now) but Gronze doesn't specify whether they take reservations or not. And, this is where the overthinking comes in, I'm just not sure if I should stop in Grado or go with my gut and continue to Cornellana (I walk a ton and this isn't my first Camino, or first time on the Primitivo, so I know that I can do it, even if the walk wears me out!). In the past I would have played it by ear, but given that I'll be reserving the rest of the way, I'm hesitant to leave this first stage up to chance.

I also know that there may not be an answer, but if someone happens to know if those albergues ARE taking reservations, I'd welcome the input! From this thread and others I do know that albergues on the Primitivo- especially given the reduced capacity- are filling up most (every?) day lately.

Okay, enough rambling (can you tell I'm excited??)
 
My question, in case anyone happens to know the answer, is about the first stage out of Oviedo. I'm aiming to stop in either Grado or make it a looong first day to land at the monastery in Cornellana. Both places I'm looking at- the donativo in Grado and the albergue in Cornellana- are open (at least for now) but Gronze doesn't specify whether they take reservations or not.

Nadine, you can whatsapp the albergue. I just did, and they responded immediately to tell me they were open and that they will take a reservation if you are certain of your day of arrival.

tel. 34 635 48 59 32
 
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Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Nadine, you can whatsapp the albergue. I just did, and they responded immediately to tell me they were open and that they will take a reservation if you are certain of your day of arrival.

tel. 34 635 48 59 32
Thank you @peregrina2000 !!! Using WhatsApp didn't even occur to me, and that's a much easier solution than attempting to figure out how to call from the states and muddle through the Spanish that I don't really know how to speak 😅 And thank you for going ahead and reaching out to them to find out about reservations, it is such a help!
 
Thank you @peregrina2000 !!! Using WhatsApp didn't even occur to me, and that's a much easier solution than attempting to figure out how to call from the states and muddle through the Spanish that I don't really know how to speak 😅 And thank you for going ahead and reaching out to them to find out about reservations, it is such a help!
Well, I thought I would make it simple by just saying that I was walking next week and was wondering if they were open and what the reservation situation was. They responded immediately and told me to make a reservation. I said, thanks, and they wrote right back and insisted I reserved. So I came clean and told them that it wasn’t really me who was walking now, but an internet amiga. I thought I was making it simple, but I was making it more difficult. If there is a language problem, let me know as I can write back and make the reservation on your behalf.
 
Well, I thought I would make it simple by just saying that I was walking next week and was wondering if they were open and what the reservation situation was. They responded immediately and told me to make a reservation. I said, thanks, and they wrote right back and insisted I reserved. So I came clean and told them that it wasn’t really me who was walking now, but an internet amiga. I thought I was making it simple, but I was making it more difficult. If there is a language problem, let me know as I can write back and make the reservation on your behalf.
Ha! I'm so sorry that you got caught up in this but I just had to laugh! A few minutes ago I did send a message and, true to form, they responded right away and my reservation is confirmed. Thank you again, sometimes the relatively simple solution is sitting right there but can be so hard to see!
 
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Ha! I'm so sorry that you got caught up in this but I just had to laugh! A few minutes ago I did send a message and, true to form, they responded right away and my reservation is confirmed. Thank you again, sometimes the relatively simple solution is sitting right there but can be so hard to see!
I slept in Cornellana on my first Primitivo and really enjoyed it a lot. That was where two Portuguese pilgrims learned that putting socks in the microwave does not dry them.

You will have to tell me whether you think the wild animal on the carving over the entrance is saving the child or eating the child.

A live update would be great, because I am hoping to be on the Primitivo again in September. Fingers crossed. Are you comfortable staying in albergues, @NadineK.
 
I slept in Cornellana on my first Primitivo and really enjoyed it a lot. That was where two Portuguese pilgrims learned that putting socks in the microwave does not dry them.

You will have to tell me whether you think the wild animal on the carving over the entrance is saving the child or eating the child.

A live update would be great, because I am hoping to be on the Primitivo again in September. Fingers crossed. Are you comfortable staying in albergues, @NadineK.
Very excited to try to decipher the carving; it's almost like a treasure hunt and gives me something to be on the lookout for!

Pre-COVID I loved staying in albergues. I'm not sure what that answer is now, though I'm going to try a few out on this Camino and see how it all feels. I'm probably going to stay in mostly private albergues, with the hopes that these tend to be a bit smaller anyway (or, that the beds tend to be divided into several rooms), as well as stay a bit more "off stage". We'll see! I've pulled together some really great notes from this forum, and especially from @LTfit 's recent walk. I'll try to check in here with a live update!

Mostly, I'm hoping for clear weather on Hospitales. Back when I walked it in 2015, you couldn't see a thing! (still an amazing experience, but I've always thought- "Now that's a reason to come back")
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
I slept in Cornellana on my first Primitivo and really enjoyed it a lot. That was where two Portuguese pilgrims learned that putting socks in the microwave does not dry them.

You will have to tell me whether you think the wild animal on the carving over the entrance is saving the child or eating the child.

A live update would be great, because I am hoping to be on the Primitivo again in September. Fingers crossed. Are you comfortable staying in albergues, @NadineK.
Well I’m CAF23503-938C-42D4-AA99-082F2DF289DD.jpeghere in Cornellana, having breakfast and thinking that soon I need to get packed up and on my way. I’m going to try to do a live report later, but for now, I’m here to say that I found the carving of the wild animal and child! I was with another pilgrim and we examined it and unfortunately I do not think it’s looking good for the kid (the beast has quite the wild, maniacal look on its eye!)

Thanks for giving me the heads up about it, and staying here at the monastery has been incredible. Four pilgrims in three rooms, an open kitchen where we could cook, masks worn at all times, etc.
 
Yesterday in the evening I passed by Escamplero albergue which is listed on Gronze as closed but I met a pilgrim who stayed in this albergue and said there are some major maintenance and renovation works on the ground floor, but the albergue upstairs still can be used. It's a very basic refugio but those on a low budget may find this post useful.

20210727_185113.jpg
 
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On the way to Salas I stepped into Cornellana albergue to get a stamp. The hospitalero let me know that there is not many pilgrims staying in the albergue these days. Walking from Paladín to Salas today I met just 4 pilgrims of which 2 stayed in Cornellana. Primitivo looks empty, but stunningly beautiful, as always!

20210728_130548.jpg
Cornellana Monastery
20210728_071820.jpg
Crossing Río Nalón on the way to Grado
 
After I finished Camino Frances I walked the first 200 km of Primitivo. Never had problem with accommodation - at the end of July 2021. So I doubt anyone will have problems in late September or October. Didn't stay in Oviedo but stayed in Paladín (total of 2 pilgrims), stepped to Cornellana - 2 pilgrims, stayed in Salas, 3 albergues + cheap rooms - lots of beds, Bodenaya - don't know, Espina had plenty of space, Campiello didn't fill up, Samblismo: yes no beds available (exception), Berducedo had beds when I passed through it, stayed in La Mesa, there was at least 1 available bed at night (but if you are sensitive about covid space limits maybe not a good place for you) , Castro - I don't know, Fonsagrada had vacancies both in private and municipal, Cadavo Baleira had 1 (!) pilgrim in municipal when I passed by, Castroverde municipal was nearly full but I recommend Pension Cortes, got my own room for only 20 euro and a decent menu at the pension restaurant for 10 euro. Finished my walk there and went to Santiago.

Altogether I walked about 1100 km - 800 on Frances, 200 on Primitivo and 120 Santiago - Muxía - Finisterre, all in the middle of holiday season, and was never forced to take a private room because of lack of albergue space. I did take private room a few times but it was always my choice.

I always book a room in Seminario Menor though, when I go to Santiago (yesterday and today fully booked - no surprise with 1663 pilgrims in Santiago). Single rooms in Seminario Menor have always been my favorite place to stay when I finish my walk to Santiago or just before going home.

Thank you for reading and Buen Camino!

Photos below: Seminario Menor
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View from my window. It is so quiet outside.
20210807_144651.jpg
 
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Just read in an Asturian newspaper that the albergue in Grado can't accomodate to all pilgrims passing by. Not because it is extremely busy, but because they can only use 10 beds instead of 20.

 
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On the Pola de Allande to La Mesa lap, the albergue municipal in La Mesa is closed. Better to spend the night in Barducelo (4 km before La Mesa) and then walk the 20 km to Grandas de Salime the next morning. Also, there were many reservations at the albergue municipal in Salas (for 8 beds, there were 6 reservations), so start walking early to be one of the first pilgrims to arrive. I was number 7 at that albergue. On the other hand, there were just a handful of us in Pola de Allande, so it's inconsistent. The non municipal albergues have gone up in price, charging usually 13-15 Euros.
 
A Fonsagrada is totally full today, at least from what I’ve been told. Yesterday in La Mesa , pilgrims were taking taxis to I don’t know where. After talking to several local owners of pensiones and casas rurales, the most accurate way to describe the situation, I think, is to say that it’s a hugely inconsistent wave-bubble reality. I personally recommend making reservations but I know some are opposed to that. The crowd is pretty young, so I am enjoying being a Camino Elder.
 
No problems getting a bed at the albergue municipal in Grandas de Salime. I arrived early, and had time to enjoy a bottle of Asturian sidra at a local cafe before the arrival of the host at the albergue municipal. I'm one of those pilgrims who doesn't make reservations, and it's been fine.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.

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