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Primitivo Day 5 - May 17, 2017

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Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2014)
Camino Primitivo (2017)
Left Oviedo on Saturday the 13th. My advice is to wait until 8am to leave as before that no bars or cafe's are open. Keep your wits about as the Camino signage is spotty.

Owing to being at the wrong place at the wrong time, I started out with some really poor food opportunities. That ended with roar in Campiello. I stayed at the alburque Herminia. I had two pilgrim dinners there (somewhat by accident). They are unquestionably why I successfully navigated the Hospitales and I cannot recommend that Alburque enough. I also heard very good things about Cash Ricardo.

The weather has been great, mostly dry and not too hot. Having said that the Hospitales route yesterday definitely required hat and sun block. Temps were probably in the mid twenties. Rained a bit today but very nice and a bit humid. Temp is in the 20 range. For those that are concerned about Hospitales vs Polo Allende, unless the weather is bad take Hospitales. Either way is a tough stage. I have spoken to two groups today who did the Allende and both regretted their decision. The Ciccerone guide rates them both at level 5.

The hospilatero in La Espina feels that the Primitivo is a bit busier than last year. My sense is that a bit of a bed race is building. To be safe you should try to plan your arrival by 3pm to be assured a bed. I am in Grandas de Salime tonight and have splurged on a hotel. 35 euro for a modern room and private bath.

So far I have met great people and a few that inspire, particularly an 83 year old Italian man who is doing his 6th Camino. He had 3 helpings of the Hermania stew which may give a clue.
 
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Left Oviedo on Saturday the 13th. My advice is to wait until 8am to leave as before that no bars or cafe's are open. Keep your wits about as the Camino signage is spotty.

Owing to being at the wrong place at the wrong time, I started out with some really poor food opportunities. That ended with roar in Campiello. I stayed at the alburque Herminia. I had two pilgrim dinners there (somewhat by accident). They are unquestionably why I successfully navigated the Hospitales and I cannot recommend that Alburque enough. I also heard very good things about Cash Ricardo.

The weather has been great, mostly dry and not too hot. Having said that the Hospitales route yesterday definitely required hat and sun block. Temps were probably in the mid twenties. Rained a bit today but very nice and a bit humid. Temp is in the 20 range. For those that are concerned about Hospitales vs Polo Allende, unless the weather is bad take Hospitales. Either way is a tough stage. I have spoken to two groups today who did the Allende and both regretted their decision. The Ciccerone guide rates them both at level 5.

The hospilatero in La Espina feels that the Primitivo is a bit busier than last year. My sense is that a bit of a bed race is building. To be safe you should try to plan your arrival by 3pm to be assured a bed. I am in Grandas de Salime tonight and have splurged on a hotel. 35 euro for a modern room and private bath.

So far I have met great people and a few that inspire, particularly an 83 year old Italian man who is doing his 6th Camino. He had 3 helpings of the Hermania stew which may give a clue.
Left Oviedo on Saturday the 13th. My advice is to wait until 8am to leave as before that no bars or cafe's are open. Keep your wits about as the Camino signage is spotty.

Owing to being at the wrong place at the wrong time, I started out with some really poor food opportunities. That ended with roar in Campiello. I stayed at the alburque Herminia. I had two pilgrim dinners there (somewhat by accident). They are unquestionably why I successfully navigated the Hospitales and I cannot recommend that Alburque enough. I also heard very good things about Cash Ricardo.

The weather has been great, mostly dry and not too hot. Having said that the Hospitales route yesterday definitely required hat and sun block. Temps were probably in the mid twenties. Rained a bit today but very nice and a bit humid. Temp is in the 20 range. For those that are concerned about Hospitales vs Polo Allende, unless the weather is bad take Hospitales. Either way is a tough stage. I have spoken to two groups today who did the Allende and both regretted their decision. The Ciccerone guide rates them both at level 5.

The hospilatero in La Espina feels that the Primitivo is a bit busier than last year. My sense is that a bit of a bed race is building. To be safe you should try to plan your arrival by 3pm to be assured a bed. I am in Grandas de Salime tonight and have splurged on a hotel. 35 euro for a modern room and private bath.

So far I have met great people and a few that inspire, particularly an 83 year old Italian man who is doing his 6th Camino. He had 3 helpings of the Hermania stew which may give a clue.

On 6 May we started at Oviedo and on 15 May arrived at Lugo.
Instead of Grandas de Salime we stopped at Castro. Next stage to A Fonsagrada. I think enough sleeping places.(Cantrabrico & some others) In Cadavo a new auberge besides two others. Good, 16 sleeping places in 2 rooms (11 euro). Also 2 Double bed rooms. In same street on 15 meters a shop open till at least 9 in the evening. To buy the required drinks, etc. for the last stage to Lugo. Besides auberges also enough hostels/hotels.
 

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