I know there are some who don‘t like to deviate from the Camino route while walking, but I have gotten an email question from a friend about what little gems are not too far from the Camino Primitivo.
I know I have recently written something about this, but I can’t find the thread. So I thought I’d start a new one, and here are the places that occured to me as I was responding to the email.
— This probably goes without saying, because anyone who is interested in ancient architecture will know that Oviedo itself is a treasure trove. Especially: The Naranco sites and San Julián de los Prados. Some have visited the Naranco sites on their way out of town and then “cut over“ to the Primitivo, with the first night’s stop in Escamplero. I always spend a day in Oviedo, so I’ve never done that personally. There’s an old thread about this, and maybe there’s something more up to date, but this is what I found.
—Romanesque church at San Pedro de Nora. A km or two downhill from Escamplero and then back up to the camino. I wouldn’t say this is a five star not to be missed place, but if you like Romanesque, and if you are going to stop in Grado and think you’ll have a few more kms in the tank, I would recommend it. My tracks here. And there are a few pictures, too. The señora with the keys (who was hosing down her driveway when I came by) was extremely kind and took me around with a big smile on her face.
— Roman baths after Premoño (on way into Grado). Jungleboy has done this, I haven’t, but have it on my list.
— Waterfall (Cascada de Nonaya) 250 m off the route on the ascent after Salas. Last time I went through it was pouring rain, so I decided to put it off. But in hindsight that may have been a bad idea, because the flow of the water was probably pretty spectacular. It had been raining for hours and hours and hours.
— Monasterio Santa María el Real de Obona. About half way between Tineo and Campiello with a very well marked turnoff and and easy way back to the camino. A lot of what remains standing is ”only” a few centuries old, but there is a romanesque church that replaced an earlier 8C church. The grounds are unattended, buildings are in ruins, and it’s very atmospheric!
—Church at Soutomerille, well-marked turnoff a km or two after the albergue at Vilar de Cas (on the way into Lugo). This is oh so worth it. I have been there twice now, and the first time everything was overgrown, views blocked, etc. In 2021, it was a different story — beautiful view of the pre-Roman window, and several ancient chestnuts had information plaques saying that they were more than 400 years old. HIGHLY recommended.
— And another spectacular one — the Roman temple/spa/bath (unknown) at Santa Eulalia da Bóveda. Carvings and paintings that are five star. I’ve written about this a lot on the forum, so I’ll just link to the website and let you decide whether it’s worth a short detour. Getting back to the camino from there doesn’t require backtracking, and the way to rejoin the camino takes you past the romanesque church at Bacurín, so that’s a double whammy!
I’ll bet I have forgotten some, so it’d be great if others would chime in. For me, visiting these places is an important part of my camino. Thety give me such beautiful tangible evidence of humanity’s search for the divine/magical/spiritual. What better time to stop and contemplate that than when I’m in the middle of a camino!
I know I have recently written something about this, but I can’t find the thread. So I thought I’d start a new one, and here are the places that occured to me as I was responding to the email.
— This probably goes without saying, because anyone who is interested in ancient architecture will know that Oviedo itself is a treasure trove. Especially: The Naranco sites and San Julián de los Prados. Some have visited the Naranco sites on their way out of town and then “cut over“ to the Primitivo, with the first night’s stop in Escamplero. I always spend a day in Oviedo, so I’ve never done that personally. There’s an old thread about this, and maybe there’s something more up to date, but this is what I found.
—Romanesque church at San Pedro de Nora. A km or two downhill from Escamplero and then back up to the camino. I wouldn’t say this is a five star not to be missed place, but if you like Romanesque, and if you are going to stop in Grado and think you’ll have a few more kms in the tank, I would recommend it. My tracks here. And there are a few pictures, too. The señora with the keys (who was hosing down her driveway when I came by) was extremely kind and took me around with a big smile on her face.
— Roman baths after Premoño (on way into Grado). Jungleboy has done this, I haven’t, but have it on my list.
— Waterfall (Cascada de Nonaya) 250 m off the route on the ascent after Salas. Last time I went through it was pouring rain, so I decided to put it off. But in hindsight that may have been a bad idea, because the flow of the water was probably pretty spectacular. It had been raining for hours and hours and hours.
— Monasterio Santa María el Real de Obona. About half way between Tineo and Campiello with a very well marked turnoff and and easy way back to the camino. A lot of what remains standing is ”only” a few centuries old, but there is a romanesque church that replaced an earlier 8C church. The grounds are unattended, buildings are in ruins, and it’s very atmospheric!
—Church at Soutomerille, well-marked turnoff a km or two after the albergue at Vilar de Cas (on the way into Lugo). This is oh so worth it. I have been there twice now, and the first time everything was overgrown, views blocked, etc. In 2021, it was a different story — beautiful view of the pre-Roman window, and several ancient chestnuts had information plaques saying that they were more than 400 years old. HIGHLY recommended.
— And another spectacular one — the Roman temple/spa/bath (unknown) at Santa Eulalia da Bóveda. Carvings and paintings that are five star. I’ve written about this a lot on the forum, so I’ll just link to the website and let you decide whether it’s worth a short detour. Getting back to the camino from there doesn’t require backtracking, and the way to rejoin the camino takes you past the romanesque church at Bacurín, so that’s a double whammy!
I’ll bet I have forgotten some, so it’d be great if others would chime in. For me, visiting these places is an important part of my camino. Thety give me such beautiful tangible evidence of humanity’s search for the divine/magical/spiritual. What better time to stop and contemplate that than when I’m in the middle of a camino!
