markss
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Frances from SJPP (3/10 & 10/10); Primitivo (6/12)
After having twice exprerienced walking the Camino Frances Route, during the first half of June, 2012 I walked the Primitivo. A few general miscellaneous comments and comparisons follow to add to other comments on the forum.
The route itself is indeed beautiful. While it is more mountainous than the Frances, I did not find any particular part of it any more difficult. The challenge comes in that it is day after day of hills with no easier day's respite. If I were to recommend between the two routes to a first time Camino traveler I would suggest the Frances. This for the diversity of terrain as well as of the people. If you've already done the Frances, the Primitivo is definately worth the experience. (Subject to qualifications described below.)
On the subject of the people, at the time of my travel they were overwhelmingly Spanish. There was also less of an age diversity than on the Frances Route as most tended to be in the 40-55 year old catagory. In general almost all spoke exclusively Spanish. Yes it is Spain and that is the language, but one not fluent in speaking it can feel very isolated both along the route and in the albergues. Although personally fluent in Spanish and accompanied by friends from Spain, I noticed the few non Spanish pilgrims seeming to find it difficult to fully engage in conversation and often not included in general socialization in albergues. On the French route it is much easier to interact with others to whatever level one desires. The Primitivo will not provide the same international diversity that the Frances provides.
In early June there were few people walking the route. As a consequence finding space in albergues was never a problem. In fact there were very few fellow pilgrims encountered during each day's walk. Apparently this is not the case in July and August. That said, I would caution that only the hardiest of adventurers take this route from about mid October through mid April. The trails are mountainous, muddy and I would imagine snow and other weather conditions could be a bit difficult and perhaps hazardous in colder months.
A personal issue with me is an irrational fear of walking along side steep drop offs. This, despite what others have said, is a major concern along the Primitivo. There are numerous areas with long stretches of steep drop offs. People who don't share this fear may not even be mindful of the matter. Those that do would take note and may have problems. Frankly I don't know how I made it without such panic kicking in. Once that occurs there is no way to moderate it. However, unfortuantely for this reason I would never walk this route again. Similar conditions did not exist on the Frances Route.
My preference on the Frances was to walk without assistance of walking poles or stick. Due to the extensively hilly terrain and mud I would recommend walking poles on the Primitivo.
The subject of albergues seems to be well covered in other posts. I only add that the one in Grandas de Salime that others described in dreadful terms has now been replaced with a nice new albergue.
Buen Primitivo!
The route itself is indeed beautiful. While it is more mountainous than the Frances, I did not find any particular part of it any more difficult. The challenge comes in that it is day after day of hills with no easier day's respite. If I were to recommend between the two routes to a first time Camino traveler I would suggest the Frances. This for the diversity of terrain as well as of the people. If you've already done the Frances, the Primitivo is definately worth the experience. (Subject to qualifications described below.)
On the subject of the people, at the time of my travel they were overwhelmingly Spanish. There was also less of an age diversity than on the Frances Route as most tended to be in the 40-55 year old catagory. In general almost all spoke exclusively Spanish. Yes it is Spain and that is the language, but one not fluent in speaking it can feel very isolated both along the route and in the albergues. Although personally fluent in Spanish and accompanied by friends from Spain, I noticed the few non Spanish pilgrims seeming to find it difficult to fully engage in conversation and often not included in general socialization in albergues. On the French route it is much easier to interact with others to whatever level one desires. The Primitivo will not provide the same international diversity that the Frances provides.
In early June there were few people walking the route. As a consequence finding space in albergues was never a problem. In fact there were very few fellow pilgrims encountered during each day's walk. Apparently this is not the case in July and August. That said, I would caution that only the hardiest of adventurers take this route from about mid October through mid April. The trails are mountainous, muddy and I would imagine snow and other weather conditions could be a bit difficult and perhaps hazardous in colder months.
A personal issue with me is an irrational fear of walking along side steep drop offs. This, despite what others have said, is a major concern along the Primitivo. There are numerous areas with long stretches of steep drop offs. People who don't share this fear may not even be mindful of the matter. Those that do would take note and may have problems. Frankly I don't know how I made it without such panic kicking in. Once that occurs there is no way to moderate it. However, unfortuantely for this reason I would never walk this route again. Similar conditions did not exist on the Frances Route.
My preference on the Frances was to walk without assistance of walking poles or stick. Due to the extensively hilly terrain and mud I would recommend walking poles on the Primitivo.
The subject of albergues seems to be well covered in other posts. I only add that the one in Grandas de Salime that others described in dreadful terms has now been replaced with a nice new albergue.
Buen Primitivo!
