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Primitivo over

micamino73

Active Member
Completed the 11 day 300km walk. You can find the camino I took on http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?name=Robert+Nugent&id=1927526

I don't have words to say how much I enjoyed it. If I could bottle it I would. Wish I had more days, but the 11 I did was fine. I would recommend you to do the 13 stages.

My highlights
Oviedo Cathedral, Hospitales with Sun was spectacular. Tineo and Meras Palace with its Pilgrim albergue. Enjoyed very much the Grandes de Salime what down and up to the town. Actually I liked everything.

I would recommend that you do the Lugo -> Friol -> Sobrado route and then take the northern route.

Friol was a really nice town, in Friol there is a great restaurant called Orixes beside the Church.. and there is a nice pension hotel in the town. Because its not on the camino proper you get a great feel for the town (before people discover it)

The way from Lugo to Friol is marked with green arrows. The first 7 KM was some of the most beautiful we walked.. along a river with waterfalls. Thats to the form for all the details on this. well worth it.

Also thanks to the forum for the idea of going to Sobrado.. without a doubt one of the jewels of this camino. The albergue in the monastery was great and there was some really good places to eat in the down.

I recommend Albergue Cantabrico in fonsagrada

http://cantabricofonsagrada.com/albergue-a-fonsagrada/

If you can I would advise to call ahead and reserve your albergue if you are thinking of walking late, otherwise you will have to go around looking for a place. We were a group of 7 so we called ahead and it helped to arrive to a place.

Some bad reports about borres public Albergue, not very clean. We stayed in Roots and boots in Lugo. The bed was ok.. but one bathroom/Show for 18 beds was not pleasant. Guys on the camino with me did not like it.

Got caught in Grandes de Salime sunday evening with everything closed, not much choice to eat that day.

If you can I recommend the Monastery in Campiello, really enjoyed it. There is a supermarket close and you have a nice kitchen there.

I enjoyed walked around lugo on the track on the Roman walks.

If its raining I would NOT recommend you take the green arrows out of Friol to Sobrado. We got stuck in some serious mud. (up to my knees) The small paths in the countryside are nice, but very muddy. might be better to take the back roads.

What I liked the most about the primitivo was that a good part of country trail off road with great views. its well worth going for it, my only regret was having to cut 20km from the walk so I could do the 300km in 13 days.
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
Completed the 11 day 300km walk. You can find the camino I took on http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?name=Robert+Nugent&id=1927526

I don't have words to say how much I enjoyed it. If I could bottle it I would. Wish I had more days, but the 11 I did was fine. I would recommend you to do the 13 stages.

My highlights
Oviedo Cathedral, Hospitales with Sun was spectacular. Tineo and Meras Palace with its Pilgrim albergue. Enjoyed very much the Grandes de Salime what down and up to the town. Actually I liked everything.

I would recommend that you do the Lugo -> Friol -> Sobrado route and then take the northern route.

Friol was a really nice town, in Friol there is a great restaurant called Orixes beside the Church.. and there is a nice pension hotel in the town. Because its not on the camino proper you get a great feel for the town (before people discover it)

The way from Lugo to Friol is marked with green arrows. The first 7 KM was some of the most beautiful we walked.. along a river with waterfalls. Thats to the form for all the details on this. well worth it.

Also thanks to the forum for the idea of going to Sobrado.. without a doubt one of the jewels of this camino. The albergue in the monastery was great and there was some really good places to eat in the down.

I recommend Albergue Cantabrico in fonsagrada

http://cantabricofonsagrada.com/albergue-a-fonsagrada/

If you can I would advise to call ahead and reserve your albergue if you are thinking of walking late, otherwise you will have to go around looking for a place. We were a group of 7 so we called ahead and it helped to arrive to a place.

Some bad reports about borres public Albergue, not very clean. We stayed in Roots and boots in Lugo. The bed was ok.. but one bathroom/Show for 18 beds was not pleasant. Guys on the camino with me did not like it.

Got caught in Grandes de Salime sunday evening with everything closed, not much choice to eat that day.

If you can I recommend the Monastery in Campiello, really enjoyed it. There is a supermarket close and you have a nice kitchen there.

I enjoyed walked around lugo on the track on the Roman walks.

If its raining I would NOT recommend you take the green arrows out of Friol to Sobrado. We got stuck in some serious mud. (up to my knees) The small paths in the countryside are nice, but very muddy. might be better to take the back roads.

What I liked the most about the primitivo was that a good part of country trail off road with great views. its well worth going for it, my only regret was having to cut 20km from the walk so I could do the 300km in 13 days.
Delighted it went so well. I was there just a few weeks before you. Totally agree that the first 7k from Lugo (on the green-arrow road to Friol) along the river quite spectacular. The German book which I used for this 2-day 'excursion', (but I don't speak German), seems to show a parallel route further from (to the north of I think) the river. I think it is well worth sticking close to the river all the way until you come to a very clear green arrow telling you to turn right. I hope I have attached a photo of the map. It would be, I think, the red dashed line, rather than the continuous one above.
I guess you mean the 'albergue' in Campiello, rather than the 'monastery'?
As I wrote above I found Borres fine. It would be good to get some recent 'first-degree' feedback and it would be disappointing if it has deteriorated in such a short time. If you get there and it is not 'habitable' there is nowhere else to go!
Sounds like the mud is a persistent feature!! I perversely enjoyed it but is not going to be pleasing to people who are very mud averse!
 

Attachments

Last edited:

micamino73

Active Member
What we found good was the wikiloc app, we could download the map and follow it. Some people going to Friol walked the whole way on the road, which they didn't enjoy. Green arrows in a forest are not the best, but the app was good because it put us back on the path.
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
@micamino73 Oh interested too to see your wikiloc record. Not sure how to do that, although I have got a GPS record of my route. I took the road through Alta, rather than through Retorta. There was a great collection of confusing arrows at one junction. I think I have a picture.... I believe the right green arrow goes to Retorta and the other one via Alta and Guldriz. It is impressive that the two alternatives are both waymarked. I would love to know who does the marking and be able to convey thanks!
 

Attachments

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
What we found good was the wikiloc app, we could download the map and follow it. Some people going to Friol walked the whole way on the road, which they didn't enjoy. Green arrows in a forest are not the best, but the app was good because it put us back on the path.
:)Yes exactly! You find yourself looking at green moss and green lichen on green tree bark trying to decide if it is an arrow or not! I must investigate wikiloc before my next walk.
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
you walked a longer route that ours. is there something on this route different?
Not especially. I made some notes here: Lugo to Sobrado 2016
I more or less followed the map in the German guide, though it was a bit hit and miss to be honest! I decided to visit St Eulalia de Boveda, which was only a couple of hundred metres off the track, but of course it was Sunday and everything was closed - church and interpretive centre (that may be a rather grand name for what it was). As I said, there is a choice at that curious junction between the 'northern way' and the 'southern way.'
It was the next day when I had the SERIOUS mud adventures. There were quite a lot more people about (locals in the fields) on Monday who were very encouraging in pointing out the direction. Apart from one man who called his dogs off I met no one on the Sunday. And I met no pilgrim either of those days.
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
you walked a longer route that ours. is there something on this route different?
Oh and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I loved the lack of people. I love meeting people too, but two days of solitude was a real treat. And a terrific welcome in the Pension Benigno in Friol, despite not having booked or phoned and the bar being closed on Sunday.
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
The poor reports about Borres seem to be from the past. Also if anyone walks by early and looks in before it has been cleaned then it will be as the previous night's pilgrims left it. We have heard that it is now well maintained by the lady from the bar in Borres.
 

Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Camino(s) past & future
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
Very interesting thread.
Am planning the Primitivo for next April/May .....
Have downloaded the wikilok app - but can anyone tell me which Provinces of Spain I need to download for the Primitivo?
Many thanks!
 
Last edited:

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Far too many...
Very interesting thread.
Am planning the Primitivo for next April/May .....
Have downloaded the wikilok app - but can anyone tell me which Provinces of Spain I need to download for the Primitivo?
Many thanks!
Oh, it's easy to see on a map: Asturias and Galicia. If you mean Provinces = comunidades autónomas?
 

Pelegrin

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo June 2013
SJPP - Logroño June 2014
Ingles July2016
The provinces are Asturias (Comunidad Autónoma Asturias) and

Lugo and A Coruña ( both in Comunidad Autónoma Galicia)
 

micamino73

Active Member
Very interesting thread.
Am planning the Primitivo for next April/May .....
Have downloaded the wikilok app - but can anyone tell me which Provinces of Spain I need to download for the Primitivo?
Many thanks!
Hi, If you live in the EU next year there won't be data charges, so you can roam free and just follow the track.
 

Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Camino(s) past & future
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
Hi, If you live in the EU next year there won't be data charges, so you can roam free and just follow the track.
I may have problems ........I don't plan to leave the UK!
 

Stephen Nicholls

Steve Nicholls, Suffolk, U.K.
Camino(s) past & future
Too many caminos to list in the permitted 100 characters!!
Many thanks for the info: I think I have now downloaded all the maps I need.
At first I couldn't find Asturias .... until I looked under "P" - Principality of Asturias. They have a prince? Maybe he's a hospitaleiro ;).
Thanks guys for all your help: now ready for the Primitivo.
Hold on .... it's still ten months away .... why does this always happen to me? Ready ten months in advance. :rolleyes:
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
The Princes of Asturias are the heirs to the Spanish throne, like the Princes of Wales here. Asturias was the oldest Christian kingdom of Spain at the Reconquista with the capital there, before it moved to Leon etc. in later years.
 

Diversity Jane

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino de Santiago ie Camino frances (2014), Camino del Norte (2015), Le Chemin St.Jaques de Le Puy en Valey jusque Moissac (2014) Camino Primitivo (planning 2016)
Completed the 11 day 300km walk. You can find the camino I took on http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?name=Robert+Nugent&id=1927526

I don't have words to say how much I enjoyed it. If I could bottle it I would. Wish I had more days, but the 11 I did was fine. I would recommend you to do the 13 stages.

My highlights
Oviedo Cathedral, Hospitales with Sun was spectacular. Tineo and Meras Palace with its Pilgrim albergue. Enjoyed very much the Grandes de Salime what down and up to the town. Actually I liked everything.

I would recommend that you do the Lugo -> Friol -> Sobrado route and then take the northern route.

Friol was a really nice town, in Friol there is a great restaurant called Orixes beside the Church.. and there is a nice pension hotel in the town. Because its not on the camino proper you get a great feel for the town (before people discover it)

The way from Lugo to Friol is marked with green arrows. The first 7 KM was some of the most beautiful we walked.. along a river with waterfalls. Thats to the form for all the details on this. well worth it.

Also thanks to the forum for the idea of going to Sobrado.. without a doubt one of the jewels of this camino. The albergue in the monastery was great and there was some really good places to eat in the down.

I recommend Albergue Cantabrico in fonsagrada

http://cantabricofonsagrada.com/albergue-a-fonsagrada/

If you can I would advise to call ahead and reserve your albergue if you are thinking of walking late, otherwise you will have to go around looking for a place. We were a group of 7 so we called ahead and it helped to arrive to a place.

Some bad reports about borres public Albergue, not very clean. We stayed in Roots and boots in Lugo. The bed was ok.. but one bathroom/Show for 18 beds was not pleasant. Guys on the camino with me did not like it.

Got caught in Grandes de Salime sunday evening with everything closed, not much choice to eat that day.

If you can I recommend the Monastery in Campiello, really enjoyed it. There is a supermarket close and you have a nice kitchen there.

I enjoyed walked around lugo on the track on the Roman walks.

If its raining I would NOT recommend you take the green arrows out of Friol to Sobrado. We got stuck in some serious mud. (up to my knees) The small paths in the countryside are nice, but very muddy. might be better to take the back roads.

What I liked the most about the primitivo was that a good part of country trail off road with great views. its well worth going for it, my only regret was having to cut 20km from the walk so I could do the 300km in 13 days.
Hello micamino 73!
Thanks for all the info! A couple of Qs: Are you referring to Sobrado dos Monxes? That seems to be on the C del Norte. I can't find another Sobrado in my C Primitivo guidebook. If it is after Friol, is the 'muddy route' the only way to get there, or is there a marked alternative path? If so, where does it then join the official Camino? Thanks again for your tips!
 

Diversity Jane

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino de Santiago ie Camino frances (2014), Camino del Norte (2015), Le Chemin St.Jaques de Le Puy en Valey jusque Moissac (2014) Camino Primitivo (planning 2016)
Hello micamino 73!
Thanks for all the info! A couple of Qs: Are you referring to Sobrado dos Monxes? That seems to be on the C del Norte. I can't find another Sobrado in my C Primitivo guidebook. If it is after Friol, is the 'muddy route' the only way to get there, or is there a marked alternative path? If so, where does it then join the official Camino? Thanks again for your tips!
Ohh...sorry, just saw your link when I posted my question- I will look for answers there.
 

micamino73

Active Member
@Diversity Jane Can i chip in as well, as I think it has proved a very interesting thread?
My own input here https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/lugo-to-sobrado-2016.40889/
You are right - going from Lugo to Sobrado is an 'off-piste excursion' which links the Primitivo to the Norte. Mud seems pretty intrinsic ;) but you will see that those who do it love it!!

I highly recommend this detour to sobrado. Otherwise you end up earlier on the French route which can be very commercialised and crowded. Friol and Sobrado were well worth visiting.
 

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