Primitivo Planning

[Lakeside]

Hi all,
My family is hoping to walk the Camino in September/October of this year. We had originally hoped to walk the Frances, but due to the length of time we have, my husband and I think that the Primitivo would be a better option.

Because we were thinking of going from SJPP to Santiago, I'm now having to rethink our planning and I have a few questions. We'll be traveling with two children: a teenager and an almost 3 year old. We had originally thought that we could walk about 10-12 miles (16-19 km) per day. In the guide book we have for the Frances, it looks like there are a lot of options of places to stay in between the suggested beginning and ending towns. From what I've read, the Primitivo is a bit more limited in options.

So, I guess my main question is: Is it possible to only cover 16-19 km per day, or will we have trouble finding a place to stay if we don't cover a greater distance each day?

Thank you,
Shannon

 

[Deleted member 3000]

It should be possible. Check this site to see if distances and accommodations meet your needs:

http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-del-camino-primitivo

 

[ebrandt]

I am planning on walking the primitivo in June 2015. I have been doing a bunch of planning. I put together a guide that combines info on albergues -- you can find it here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...xia-finisterre-guide.225/download?version=180. My guide only includes albergues not casa rurals and pensions. In addition to the Gronz site Falcon provided above. Check out the Eroski site on the cominos. It is in spanish but Google translate works pretty well if you don't speak spanish. I actually think Eroski has the most complete and up to date listing of albergues. They also have an iPhone App if you are going to have one with you. In addition there is a very good and pretty recent Cicerone Press Guide to the Northern Caminos. The CSJ also has a guide but it is getting a little old and I did not think it was as well organized as the guide for the Frances. Still its helpful. I think it would be doable. There are a couple of potentially long sections unless you stay at pensions or casa rurals. Liz

 

[Kiwi-family]

Note that the prices on the gronze site are a bit out of date - everything was at least 5 euros in June.
I walked with four kids - youngest was 8 and not 3, so a big difference. But I would not hesitate about walking with a younger one. I would think seriously about doing the Hospitales route - we LOVED it, one of the best days on our entire camino, but the downhill portion would be demanding with a little one (or you could stick to the road for that portion after crossing the cols). Also, if you did take that route, I would HIGHLY recommend making it as far as Borres the night before.

 

[peregrina2000]

Note that the prices on the gronze site are a bit out of date - everything was at least 5 euros in June.
I walked with four kids - youngest was 8 and not 3, so a big difference. But I would not hesitate about walking with a younger one. I would think seriously about doing the Hospitales route - we LOVED it, one of the best days on our entire camino, but the downhill portion would be demanding with a little one (or you could stick to the road for that portion after crossing the cols). Also, if you did take that route, I would HIGHLY recommend making it as far as Borres the night before.

No matter which route you take on the Primitivo, you are going to have to do that downhill portion. The Hospitales route meets up with the Pola de Allande route at the pass (Puerto de Palo, I think it's called), so there is no way to avoid that killer downhill to Montefurado.

BTW, if anyone is looking to open an albergue on the Primitivo, I would highly suggest Montefurado as a GREAT place to do it. Lovely stone village, lots of abandoned houses, in fact I don't think there are any permanent residents, so you should be able to get something cheap. I think it would be a wonderful place for an albergue.

 

[Kiwi-family]

You're right Laurie - I forgot that's where it joined. In that case, I'd definitely recommend the Hospitales route - it is so stunning (those who we talked to who did the other route found it to be averagely interesting - no comparison by the sounds of it!)
Could you confirm whether it would be possible to take the road instead of the stony path? It looks like you could, but I'm guessing.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We walked short stages, but in a couple of places we did take transport because of the length. Check out Gronze and also various blogs. Ours gives our stages from Tineo to Santiago (see http://camino-primitivo-2012.blogspot.co.uk/). We didn't go over Hospitales choosing to stay on Pola de Allande and then going over Puerto de Palo.

 

[TerryB]

Could you confirm whether it would be possible to take the road instead of the stony path? It looks like you could, but I'm guessing.

You can walk the road, I did in 2009 because of the weather. However it does add a goodly distance going backwards and forwards round the Z bends.
Apart from the need to be careful on the loose stones, the descent from Buspol to the dam is far more taxing on the knees and ankles.

Blessings
Tio Tel
(P.S. Good to see the Kiwi-family back on the forum!!!)

 

[Lakeside]

It should be possible. Check this site to see if distances and accommodations meet your needs:

http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-del-camino-primitivo

Thank you! I'll take a look at that site.

 

[Lakeside]

I am planning on walking the primitivo in June 2015. I have been doing a bunch of planning. I put together a guide that combines info on albergues -- you can find it here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...xia-finisterre-guide.225/download?version=180. My guide only includes albergues not casa rurals and pensions. In addition to the Gronz site Falcon provided above. Check out the Eroski site on the cominos. It is in spanish but Google translate works pretty well if you don't speak spanish. I actually think Eroski has the most complete and up to date listing of albergues. They also have an iPhone App if you are going to have one with you. In addition there is a very good and pretty recent Cicerone Press Guide to the Northern Caminos. The CSJ also has a guide but it is getting a little old and I did not think it was as well organized as the guide for the Frances. Still its helpful. I think it would be doable. There are a couple of potentially long sections unless you stay at pensions or casa rurals. Liz

Liz,
I printed your guide to look at. Thank you for sharing your research! And thank you for the recommendation on the Cicerone Press Guide. It should be here by the end of the week.
Thank you,
Shannon

 

[fraluchi]

Lakeside, there is always the option to take a taxi. Have a taxi telephone number handy. Ask each day for the names and numbers of taxis at both the place you are starting from and the one you intend to reach. Taxis are not terribly expensive, and if you are half way on a 20 km stretch, you'll probably not be spending more than 12 Euros. Provided you are on or near a main acces road for cars AND you can explain your location.
Enjoy your Camino!


Sent from my iPad using Camino de Santiago Forum

 

[ebrandt]

Lakeside, If you have time and think of it when you get home, be sure to post your stages and where you stayed! I love hearing what everybody ended up doing! And I am a tad jealous of you, kiwi-famly and others who walk with their kids. I would not have been physically able to do the walk when my kids were young because I was too heavy (I lost over 125 lbs starting in 2009). But I know my kids would have loved the walk. The time together will be irreplaceable! Buen camino!

 

[obinjatoo@yahoo.com]

No matter which route you take on the Primitivo, you are going to have to do that downhill portion. The Hospitales route meets up with the Pola de Allande route at the pass (Puerto de Palo, I think it's called), so there is no way to avoid that killer downhill to Montefurado.

BTW, if anyone is looking to open an albergue on the Primitivo, I would highly suggest Montefurado as a GREAT place to do it. Lovely stone village, lots of abandoned houses, in fact I don't think there are any permanent residents, so you should be able to get something cheap. I think it would be a wonderful place for an albergue.

I'm interested in the Primativo this fall and I wonder if you could clarify where on the Primativo Montefurado is. I am not as familiar with the primativo and the only Montefurado that came up in my search is south and east of Ponferrada.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, obinjatoo,
Montefurado is an abandoned village on the Primitivo on the way down from the Puerto de Palo, which is the pass where the alternative routes meet (Hospitales and Pola de Allande). It's essentially a long line of old stone houses on either side of a path with some pretty green spaces. The first time I walked through, there were a few dogs camping out, but in 2013 it was totally abandoned. I always thought it would make a great spot for someone to open an albergue, but so far no one else has had the same idea!
Buen camino, Laurie

 

[OzAnnie]

Also Laurie
How 'killer' is
The mentioned 'killer downhill' ?Normally I'm not perturbed as poles help lot but will I be needing to grip my poles for for grim death ? I've got sore right hand at moment and have tried -tested my poles. They are okay on the easy stuff as the wrist is actually supported by the straps. I may be okay for short spurts in heavy going but would value your advice.
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Annie, I'd say it ranks right up there with the descent into El Acebo on the Frances, and is in fact very similar. I use the term to refer to the rocks and the steepness. I know others always comment on the descent to the dam before Grandas as being so awful, but I thought it was much easier going than the descent from Puerto de Palo. But in any event, there is nothing dangerous about these descents, sorry if I implied that. There's never a time where "grim death" is on the horizon. It's just that it's hard on the knees, and I wouldn't trust myself to do it without poles for balance. I think you'll take it all in stride, make sure to have those poles for every step and you'll be fine. Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. when are you walking the Primitivo, Annie?

 

[Tia Valeria]

Personally I am one who found the descent from Buspol to the dam much harder than the descent from Puerto de Palo. Take either steady and it will be fine.

 

[Pelegrin]

Last year, a person lived in Montefurado. I didn't see him, but I saw a dog and some chickens.

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi, Annie, I'd say it ranks right up there with the descent into El Acebo on the Frances, and is in fact very similar. I use the term to refer to the rocks and the steepness. I know others always comment on the descent to the dam before Grandas as being so awful, but I thought it was much easier going than the descent from Puerto de Palo. But in any event, there is nothing dangerous about these descents, sorry if I implied that. There's never a time where "grim death" is on the horizon. It's just that it's hard on the knees, and I wouldn't trust myself to do it without poles for balance. I think you'll take it all in stride, make sure to have those poles for every step and you'll be fine. Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. when are you walking the Primitivo, Annie?

Thanks Laurie
Starting Norte /Irun 2 sept. ., but dependent on progress date Primitivo starts; sometime in sept!
I'm wishing this carpal tunnel syndrome in wrist/rh would disappear. (If it had shown up sooner I would have had the op, but not something that could be done in such short term, Leaving Oz on 29/8 .

I'm sure I'll have worked out how I'm coping before i get to this descent. Thank you for response from which I'm taking - 'slow and steady and carefully will get me down safely'.

Annie

 

[Thornley]

Thanks Laurie
Starting Norte /Irun 2 sept. ., but dependent on progress date Primitivo starts; sometime in sept!
I'm wishing this carpal tunnel syndrome in wrist/rh would disappear. (If it had shown up sooner I would have had the op, but not something that could be done in such short term, Leaving Oz on 29/8 .

I'm sure I'll have worked out how I'm coping before i get to this descent. Thank you for response from which I'm taking - 'slow and steady and carefully will get me down safely'.

Annie

Will be redoing Norte next year Annie ,
How did you go on the Primitivo , we intend to really take our time there because of the beauty.
Will be more than likely in Sept as we commence Norte mid Aug.
Thanks
David

 

[peregrina2000]

Also Laurie
How 'killer' is
The mentioned 'killer downhill' ?Normally I'm not perturbed as poles help lot but will I be needing to grip my poles for for grim death ? I've got sore right hand at moment and have tried -tested my poles. They are okay on the easy stuff as the wrist is actually supported by the straps. I may be okay for short spurts in heavy going but would value your advice.
Annie

Just reading a recent post on this thread, and thought I'd add that I have now found a descent that is worse than the one from Puerto de Palo into Montefurado on the Primitivo. Going from the Monastery of San Juan de la Peña to Santa Cruz de Serós (on the Catalán on the way into the Aragonés) was probably the most difficult ever. And I had three months of patellar tendonitis to prove it.

 

[LTfit]

...luckily we didn't do in in reverse right?

 

[OzAnnie]

Will be redoing Norte next year Annie ,
How did you go on the Primitivo , we intend to really take our time there because of the beauty.
Will be more than likely in Sept as we commence Norte mid Aug.
Thanks
David

Hi David
Long time between chats !
I loved the Salvador/primitivo in April may this year.
Experiences as you know are often coloured by the people you meet and how 'jet lagged' or prepared you start out.
September should be good time. You are commencing first in Norte. I found the beginning of the Norte harder than the Salvador /primitivo. It's a little like having a baby- you forget the difficult bits quickly ! There is so much natural beauty on the Salvador /primitivo. I chose hospitales route and can't remember it being too grim really
Needed to find newspaper a bit to dry out boots
Many alburgues were completo when I arrived but (on primitivo ) I found no trouble getting good priced hostals/hotel/pensiones.
Leaving oz to walk Spring, I was probably more fit having had longer days to get some walking preparation after work day. Whereas starting the Norte about. Sep1 you are coming out of oz shorter days and to working people this means less prep This shouldn't effect u though / I think you have retired.
My friend Kristine (also on this forum but doesn't come on often) returned to oz a week ago. Kristine walked sal/prim also but chose the Pola de allande route instead of hospitales. It didn't sound any easier than hospitales but I do believe it is a nice stop in Pola de allande (I have no experience with it myself).
Take your time and space it and you'll enjoy it. Although I stopped in the alburgue in Borres , I think you can do better.

Buen Camino
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Every so often, I like to bring up this thread that discusses the differences between the Hospitales and Pola de Allande route. Lots of comments, pictures, etc. This is one of those things where there is no bad decision, however! Buen camino, Laurie

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/hospitales-or-pola-de-allande.28334/#post-235952

 

[Tia Valeria]

How easy is it to backtrack the Hospitales route from the top of Puerto de Palo? say as far as where it crosses the minor road near the mines. We are thinking of doing this next year. Park the car at the bottom of the final ascent to Puerto de Palo on the Pola de Allande road, walk up then onto the Hospitales route before returning to the car. All depending on the weather and private accomodation etc......