Question about Le Puy Route

[rsmith0000]

A friend and I are starting from Le Puy-En-Velay next week and want the first couple of days to be fairly short. We are planning to take the alternate route out of Le Puy and stay in the village of Bains, reducing the first day's distance to about 15 km from 24 km. Has anyone gone that way? Is it tricky to find? I have a bit of trepidation about alternate routes and would hate to begin the first day by getting lost and having to do a lot of backtracking. We would stay at Gite du Velay in Bains. Thanks for any words of encouragement or discouragement!

Second question: if we go to Bains, we would go to Saint-Privat D'Allier the next day, which appears to be about 12 km away. Is there much to see and do there or does anyone have a recommendation of a place to go that's a bit farther -- somewhere between Saint-Privat and Saugues, the next place of any size?

On a higher level, how much of a killer is the main route from Le Puy to Saint-Privat on that first day?

Sorry if this is "in the weeds." Last minute jitters!

Many thanks!

-- Rebecca

 

[DLJ]

Bains is supposedly on the original route, it is a small village. Pizza parlor is only place open on Mondays. Friendly, helpful owners is you need help. The route is well marked, but they use black & yellow trail markers. Much of the trail is farm tractor roads.

 

[Doogman]

Hi: It's hard to respond to how much of a "killer" it is from Le Puy to Saint-Privat d'Allier, as that depends on a lot of individual factors. But my recollection is that it was a tiring walk, but not something to be too concerned about. I don't think it was much tougher or easier than most other days on the route. However, if your to plan is to keep the first few days fairly short, your plan to stop at Bains sounds like a good one.

 

[BShea]

Is there a reason you don't want to stay in Monbonnet? It's about 16 kms out of Le Puy and I think it's a great first day distance without leaving the main route. I stayed at La Grange and highly recommend it. Great views, food and rooms.

The next day, we stopped in Monistrol, which is about 13.5 kms. There is a major downhill after St. Privat, which is tough on the knees. We stayed at Le Gite des Pelerins. The food was good, but the accommodations weren't so great.

From Monistrol to Saugues is about 14 kms and, in my opinion, the hardest climb on the entire route (even harder for me than SJPdP to Orisson). Great to do first thing in the a.m. when you're fresh. Every time I thought I had reached the top of the mountain, there was another hill around the bend.

This year, I walked all the way to St. Privat on the first day. I got to Monbonnet by 1:00 p.m. and wasn't ready to stop. There's a bit of a climb out of Monbonnet, but the top ends up in a beautiful forest that smelled wonderful. I started at 7:50 and arrived in St. Privat by 3:50 (actual walking was 6 1/2 hours). I took it easy, stopping for over an hour in Monbonnet. It's very doable to walk the 24.5 kms, but if you're battling jet lag and not trying to keep to a schedule, I think Monbonnet is a better option. Short distances the first few days gives your body more time to repair overnight before hitting the road again. If/when I walk the route again, I think I'll take my time in Le Puy after the Mass (maybe grab some snacks) and stop in Monbonnet.

 

[ChloeRose]

24km might seem like a long day when you're just starting out, but your first day is probably the best time to walk a little bit further than you normally would! You'll be fresh and full of energy, and staying on the more popular route will give you an idea of what to expect from your fellow pilgrims (lots of encouragement and friendly advice )

Also good to know, an early start (7am) to a 24km day will give you a fair bit of time to visit the town you end up in.

If you've already decided for sure that you're taking the alternative route, I'd suggest calling or emailing that gite a day in advance to make sure they know to expect you. They might not open if it's a less popular route and they don't think anyone's coming.

Saint-Privat D'Allier is beautiful and the walk in and out of the town is pretty spectacular. Take advantage of those beautiful mountain views while they last! After Conques you'll be walking in less mountainous areas; still wonderful but not quite the same caliber of 'wow!' If it's only a 12km day, I'd say get an early start to be there by lunchtime and see how you feel. I saw a wonderful sunrise the morning I left from there

Bon chemin!

 

[NavyBlue]

Hi,

We are planning to take the alternate route out of Le Puy and stay in the village of Bains, reducing the first day's distance to about 15 km from 24 km. Has anyone gone that way? Is it tricky to find?

This alternative is quite controversial, to say the least. It is discussed (in french...) in balanced terms here : http://www.radiocamino.net/itineraire/le-puy-monistrol-par-le-chemin-historique
Detailed directions are given here : http://pelerins-compostelle.com/pelerinage-compostelle-chemin-puy-en-velay-etape-itineraire/ (click on the "Une variante de la première étape du chemin du Puy" link on the left margin). You will also find the altitude profiles on this page.

but your first day is probably the best time to walk a little bit further than you normally would!

I would not support this idea, but rather a progressive entry into the Chemin. Whatever your preliminary training, your body has to get accustomed to this type of unusual efforts.

These stages are recommended for the first week : Montbonnet (15 km), Monistrol-d'Allier (13.5 km), Saugues (12 km), Le Sauvage (19 km), Aumont-Aubrac (21 km), Prinsuéjols (16 km).

I took the conventional stages (Saint-Privat - Saugues - Saint-Alban - Aumont-Aubrac - Nasbinals - Saint-Chély - Espalion) but ended on day 7 with a stress fracture i.e. the well known/overuse "boot camp fracture" of the Army recruits. YMMV, of course.

 

[rsmith0000]

Thank you, DLJ, BShea, Doogman, ChloeRose and NavyBlue for the tremendously helpful suggestions!! I think you likely saved us a disastrous start to our trip. Farm tractor roads on the alternate route?! Yikes. We will go to Monbonnet the first day and follow your suggestions, NavyBlue and BShea, for reducing some of the daily distances. And I appreciate the warning about the climb from Monistrol to Saugues. Thanks, too, for the reminder about phoning ahead.

Another question: Do the gites provide blankets and pillows? The temperatures look to be on the high end of normal this year, so we are considering just taking sleeping sacks. But that won't be great if there are no blankets or pillows. What was your experience?

Thanks, again.

 

[NavyBlue]

In France, all gites supply blankets. Some of them bed sheets, pillows and pillowcases, while other ones require you bring your sleeping liner ("drap de duvet" or "sac à viande", literally "meat bag"), or rent disposable ones for a cost if you have none.

If your sleeping liner is long enough to cover a pillow, you wil be OK. Otherwise, bring a (light) pillowcase, as you will find uncased pillows not that attractive. Dimensions will not fit, but you will be able to stuff clothes in (fleece...), to make your own pillow (I got this one http://www.aventurenordique.com/taie-oreiller-ultralight-thermarest.html or something similar).

You don't need a sleeping bag.

 

[BShea]

The thing I love about the Le Puy route is that much of it is on tractor paths and away from paved roads. They are well marked, especially from Le Puy to Conques, and there will be other walkers so there’s little risk of being lost. I’m sure the variante is well marked so I wouldn’t let that be your deciding factor. I think a point made by @ChloeRose is a good one. By following the main route, you will make contact with all the other walkers starting your same day and you will see them (sometimes in the oddest places) throughout your trek. There will be fewer people walking compared to the Camino Frances so these connections are important. The French are extremely caring and will watch for you. People I didn’t recognize who were taking a rest stop in a field would call out to me by name as I passed, asking how my leg was. It was very touching.

As for blankets, yes they are provided, however I sometimes questioned when the last time they were washed. I preferred to bring my silk liner and one of the $20 Costco down throws. On my first trip in France, I had a fleece liner and that was warm enough without a blanket. It weighs about the same as my liner + throw combination, so on my second trip I took the combination as it gave me more flexibility. I brought a pillow case, but rarely used it. In the future, I wouldn’t bring a pillow case again. You can always use a t-shirt to cover a pillow, if necessary. Maybe it depends on the gite you’re staying in – the majority of mine placed a folded clean bottom sheet and pillow case on the bed. Many places want you to remove the used linens in the morning, either placing them a basket or in a pile on the bed.

 

[rsmith0000]

Sorry -- one more question.
We are walking as far as Cahors but I don't think we have quite enough time. Our schedule allows no rest days and I think that's unrealistic. If you were to skip one or two stages between Le Puy and Cahors, what would they be? We don't want to miss the most picturesque or historic towns. We are assuming it will be possible to take a taxi or bus, if necessary. Not sure if France has the equivalent of "Taxis by Luis" that seemed to be everywhere on the Camino in Spain!

Merci beaucoup!!

 

[rsmith0000]

Thanks for the additional information about the blankets and bed linens. I'm happy to leave as much behind as possible and will skip the pillow and take a pillow case. You folks are the greatest!! Really appreciate the help with the last-minute fine tuning.
Regards,
Rebecca

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I stopped in St. Christophe before Monbonnet at a very nice farm. The host delivered dinner and breakfast to the gite area. The first time, I walked to St. Privat, and it was tough; too much, really, for a first day. Monbonnet was closed at the time, so there was no apparent option.

Regardless of what you do, bon chemin!

By the way, the climb out of Monistrol is rigorous, but no worse than a lot of climbs on the various routes. I did it once in rain and hail, and we had to take a break in a barn. Just take it one step at a time.

 

[Doogman]

Sorry -- one more question.
We are walking as far as Cahors but I don't think we have quite enough time. Our schedule allows no rest days and I think that's unrealistic. If you were to skip one or two stages between Le Puy and Cahors, what would they be? We don't want to miss the most picturesque or historic towns. We are assuming it will be possible to take a taxi or bus, if necessary. Not sure if France has the equivalent of "Taxis by Luis" that seemed to be everywhere on the Camino in Spain!

Merci beaucoup!!

Hi: On the day I left Conques, I walked to Livinhac-le-Haut, which is 23-24 kms. There is a long, steep climb upon leaving Conques, and a somewhat shorter, but steeper climb before Livinhac-le-Haut. On the way to Livinhac you would pass through Decauzeville, which is not one of the prettier towns. I remember that I was pretty knackered by the time I ended the day. That day might be one possible day to miss (although every day is always exciting).

 

[Kitsambler]

Is there much to see and do

This is off-the-tourist-track and very small town France, all the way from Le Puy past Conques. Towns so small that they often do not have grocery stores. And I do mean very small - with population maybe 500. Bains might have 50. Monistrol might have 1000. The kids get bussed to school. So there isn't really nighttime entertainment, apart from the conversation over wine with other walkers.

 

[NavyBlue]

Bains population was 1,335 in 2013, with a village and several hamlets. Monistrol was 206. But Kitsambler has got the general idea : all is about landscapes, skyes, monuments, rural architecture, farming, forestry... And meeting people, either locals or pilgrims.

You will find tourists in Aubrac, attracted by the landscapes/Aligot/Gevaudan beast. Conques is the exception : crowded during daytime, concerts given in the church after dinner.

 

[rsmith0000]

Many thanks for the additional information and insights, Falcon, Kitsambler, Doogman and NavyBlue. I think I will bring a pack of playing cards and I'm rethinking leaving the Kindle behind! Sounds like we will have many quiet evenings. If anybody has recommendations for the best gites, I would be grateful -- but don't want to impose on your time. Thanks, again.

 

[Kitsambler]

... a pack of playing cards ...

Come now. I suggest a travel edition of Rummikub instead. They weigh about the same. But you can play Rummikub with other walkers as well. No need to worry about language barriers.

 

[Thornley]

Many thanks for the additional information and insights, Falcon, Kitsambler, Doogman and NavyBlue. I think I will bring a pack of playing cards and I'm rethinking leaving the Kindle behind! Sounds like we will have many quiet evenings. If anybody has recommendations for the best gites, I would be grateful -- but don't want to impose on your time. Thanks, again.

Montbonnet then Monistrol .
Its better to tackle the climb out of Monistrol after a rest , not in the middle of the day.
I would stop at Figeac if time was short , it has access to transport .
You will enjoy the humour of the country French , stay in the villages with tabac's and don't worry about the language.....The GR 65 has fixed that problem many years ago.
You will encounter more than the French walking ,
Bon Chemin