Questions about Le Puy

[Dreamluna]

Hi, guys! This summer (June 2017), I am flying to Paris and then taking a train to Le Puy to start my Camino. I'm planning on walking 22 days and resting 4 days. I've heard that Conques is an amazing place to use one of my rest days. What other places do you recommend? Also, I'm leaving two days to tour Paris..... Does anyone in this forum know of a inexpensive but good place to stay? Somewhere close to the airport would be the best.

Waiting for insights and info...
Marcia

 

[mspath]

Marcia,

Welcome to the Forum!
For good info/links re where to stay in Paris see this recent Forum thread.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/where-to-stay-in-paris-relatively-cheaply.45303/

Enjoy your planning and Bon chemin!

 

[Doogman]

Hi, guys! This summer (June 2017), I am flying to Paris and then taking a train to Le Puy to start my Camino. I'm planning on walking 22 days and resting 4 days. I've heard that Conques is an amazing place to use one of my rest days. What other places do you recommend? Also, I'm leaving two days to tour Paris..... Does anyone in this forum know of a inexpensive but good place to stay? Somewhere close to the airport would be the best.

Waiting for insights and info...
Marcia

Hi: Conques is in fact a beautiful place. It is pretty small, and there is not a huge amount to do there, but if you truly want to rest on your rest day, it would be a good place. I was pretty amazed by the Cathedral's Treasury. Worth a visit! There are also concerts at night in the Cathedral. The other town I would suggest is Cahors. I spent a rest day there a couple of years ago, and enjoyed it. It is bigger than Conques and there is more to do. Other than wandering around the old streets, I specifically remember the Museum of Resistance, Deportation and Occupation. It may not be for everyone, but I found it pretty interesting.

 

[nalod]

Conques is lovely but attract a lot of Tourists, it expensive and a rest day there in my mind is too long, aim to get there Midday and that is long enough to see things. Le Puy itself is worth a day, Espallion is nice, Condom, Cahors, Mossaic. I have done this route a few times it is pure Magic. I can give you links to my photographic blog to give you a feel for the route. Personally I would not take four rest days, have one and a number of short days. A full rest day can be boring to a Pilgrim/Hiker. http://dermotdolan.blogspot.ie/2014/10/the-le-puy-route-gr65-chemin-st-jacques.html and my website has locations on the photographs http://caminogallery.com/gallery/?id=11&area=9 Regards Dermot

 

[sharon w]

Yes Conques is beautiful. Also, if you have an extra night in Figeac you can take the train to Rocamadour on your rest day. This is touristy as well but stunning. There is a 4km walk from the station or you can get a taxi. Figeac is beautiful as well. Plenty of places to eat.

 

[Dreamluna]

Hi: Conques is in fact a beautiful place. It is pretty small, and there is not a huge amount to do there, but if you truly want to rest on your rest day, it would be a good place. I was pretty amazed by the Cathedral's Treasury. Worth a visit! There are also concerts at night in the Cathedral. The other town I would suggest is Cahors. I spent a rest day there a couple of years ago, and enjoyed it. It is bigger than Conques and there is more to do. Other than wandering around the old streets, I specifically remember the Museum of Resistance, Deportation and Occupation. It may not be for everyone, but I found it pretty interesting.

I'll mark Cahors in my book. Thanks a lot!!

 

[Dreamluna]

Guys, I'm kind of lost here. Actually, I read your great comments, and I'll check your photography, Nalod! As I am new to this format, I have no idea how to reply individually to all of you. Anyway, I marked all the places you mentioned to keep them in mind once I get there. I'm so excited to do this way (my first time) in France. I did St. James and Caminho Portuguese. Now, I'm ready to discover the beauty of France.

 

[Kitsambler]

Cahors is a larger town (100,000?) with a good walkable downtown and a worthwhile cathedral. But Conques (maybe 500 year-round residents?) is the pearl of the Le Puy route. Conques is a (mostly) untouched medieval town. It wass a place of pilgrimage in history, and remains so today. These towns offer entirely different experiences; the schedule you mention allows you time to visit both.

 

[sharon w]

Have walked this beautiful route twice. The first time we had 2 nights in Le Puy,2 in Conques and 2 in Moissac. The second time, we had only one night in each of these places. The only rest day was in Figeac as previously stated, so we could go to Rocamadour. As you are limited for time, have you worked out where you might stop so that you can get transport back? This could impact on whether you have rest days or not.

 

[Kanga]

I think Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, although lacking a cathedral, is up there to rival Conques! Not necessarily a place for a rest day (like Conques it is small) but for those of you reading this thread, definitely worth the slight detour off the main route, and easy if you walk the Cele Valley route. It too is a perfectly preserved medieval village, perched high in a defensive position above the River Lot. Voted the most beautiful village in France in 2012.

 

[Kanga]

PS - @Dreamluna I envy you! Looking at my old photos, I'm thinking how beautiful is that route.

 

[TaijiPilgrim]

Hi, guys! This summer (June 2017), I am flying to Paris and then taking a train to Le Puy to start my Camino. I'm planning on walking 22 days and resting 4 days. I've heard that Conques is an amazing place to use one of my rest days. What other places do you recommend? Also, I'm leaving two days to tour Paris..... Does anyone in this forum know of a inexpensive but good place to stay? Somewhere close to the airport would be the best.

Waiting for insights and info...
Marcia

In Paris "inexpensive but good" is not the same as on the camino! Since you want to stay close to the airport, do you mean CDG? At CDG itself, you can stay at the Ibis Styles (around 100E) or, for slightly more money, the Pullman. Both include breakfast and wifi. I stayed at the Ibis Styles 2 nights, and I was able to take the RER directly into the city each day because these 2 hotels are located at the RER station as well as the free shuttle stop that takes you between terminals - convenient and easy. The RER is about 45 minutes into the city, and if you are planning more than 2 trips back and forth with metro rides within the city, buy a Navigo pass at the RER ticket station to save money. You need to have a smaller than passport size photo to affix to the pass.

 

[Dreamluna]

Have walked this beautiful route twice. The first time we had 2 nights in Le Puy,2 in Conques and 2 in Moissac. The second time, we had only one night in each of these places. The only rest day was in Figeac as previously stated, so we could go to Rocamadour. As you are limited for time, have you worked out where you might stop so that you can get transport back? This could impact on whether you have rest days or not.

No, I still do not know what cities offer transportation (train or bus) back nor do I know how many stops I have to make or what route to take to go back to Paris.

 

[Dreamluna]

I think Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, although lacking a cathedral, is up there to rival Conques! Not necessarily a place for a rest day (like Conques it is small) but for those of you reading this thread, definitely worth the slight detour off the main route, and easy if you walk the Cele Valley route. It too is a perfectly preserved medieval village, perched high in a defensive position above the River Lot. Voted the most beautiful village in France in 2012. View attachment 31581

Wow, Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (Kanga) seems to be dreamy. I will definitely take the alternative route to get to this Medieval town. Great pic!

 

[Dreamluna]

In Paris "inexpensive but good" is not the same as on the camino! Since you want to stay close to the airport, do you mean CDG? At CDG itself, you can stay at the Ibis Styles (around 100E) or, for slightly more money, the Pullman. Both include breakfast and wifi. I stayed at the Ibis Styles 2 nights, and I was able to take the RER directly into the city each day because these 2 hotels are located at the RER station as well as the free shuttle stop that takes you between terminals - convenient and easy. The RER is about 45 minutes into the city, and if you are planning more than 2 trips back and forth with metro rides within the city, buy a Navigo pass at the RER ticket station to save money. You need to have a smaller than passport size photo to affix to the pass.

Taiji, great info. Did you make a reservation way ahead of time or last minute? Do they speak English or Spanish there? I do NOT speak French

 

[Dreamluna]

Marcia,

Welcome to the Forum!
For good info/links re where to stay in Paris see this recent Forum thread.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/where-to-stay-in-paris-relatively-cheaply.45303/

Enjoy your planning and Bon chemin!

Amazing pictures!!

 

[AlwynWellington]

I'm planning on walking 22 days and resting 4 days.

Welcome Marcia.

Being a perverse critter I did my rest days before I started. Two nights (one full day) in both Lyon (great museum and wonderful buildings) and Le Puy (lots to see and checking out the start of the route) as I was unlikely to get to either again.

Once started there are around 750 km to S Jean. You don't mention your end point. So 22 days walking means an average of aroung 35 km each and every day.

With the exception of Cahors, most places are villages or small towns.

I planned to stop at Moissac for two nights after 14 days continuous. And did. The meals of Anne Vittot at Gite La Petite Lumiere (right on top of the hill, along side the statue of Mary, 4 Sentier du Calvaire) were wonderful whether there were 12 (on my first night) or two (on my second night). There was enough to keep me occupied on my rest day, including a walk (sans pack) down to the massive canal bridge and to see the tourist canal barges tied up in the pool.

And the day before, by serendipity, I stopped at Lauzerte. Like Conques, this is an ancient town but on top of a hill rising out of the surrounding country. They have not been precious and have built new on the old street plan. It was magic to walk around the town in the hour befor sunset and for an hour starting just before sunrise to see the buildings and the vistas. The communal meal in the village gite was a good occasion for me as a boring mono linguist.

La Romieu is worth a two hour stop to visit the collegiate church, to learn why cat statuary abounds, the history of one man who started and ended his days here after being locum during a papal vacancy of around two years, and of the political connection, for a long time, to the throne of England.

I had a forced two night stop at Eauze and recommend, the "cathedral", the Museum (and its Treasury) and the wonderful meals (and chat about Armangnc) over nearly three hours provided by Mme Marie-France of Gite La Grange (4 avenue de La Tenareze).

Communal meals at Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Arzaq, Arthez de Bearn and S Jean itself also stand out.

But the best part for me, an extreme introvert, was the people, the people, the people.

My blog (see below) may also be helpful.

I wish you well.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

 

[ChloeRose]

My rest-day suggestion is Espalais, the micro-town just before Auvillar. There is an incredible hostel there called "Le Par Chemin", where I ended up staying 3 extra days to help out. The decor is extremely cool and the spirit of the Camino and communal living is embodied completely by the proprietor, Vincent.

The first night it was booked to capacity, but they still managed to find room for three stray pilgrims with nowhere else to go. My second night the gîte was empty except for me and one other woman. We cooked and ate together, discussing the Camino and other subjects until very late.

I cannot recommend this spot more highly!

Bon Chemin!

 

[Magnara]

I also vote for all of the places mentioned by everyone so far - fabulous, each one a little gem in its own way. There is a string of the officially named "Most Beautiful Villages in France" along the way, it says it all really. One thing I would recommend in Moissac is to go to the church at (I think) 6 pm when the nuns sing - ordinary little women with ethereal voices, never to be forgotten. Sigh - I envy you.

 

[Kitsambler]

I do NOT speak French

You have six months to learn a basic dozen bits of phrasebook French. Get cracking!

Miam Miam Dodo indicates which towns on the Le Puy route have transit connections. You can check the timetables for trains (and bus substitutes where they are used) on the French rail site/app SNCF, or the German rail site/app DeutscheBahn DB.

 

[Trumps]

Conques is lovely but attract a lot of Tourists, it expensive and a rest day there in my mind is too long, aim to get there Midday and that is long enough to see things. Le Puy itself is worth a day, Espallion is nice, Condom, Cahors, Mossaic. I have done this route a few times it is pure Magic. I can give you links to my photographic blog to give you a feel for the route. Personally I would not take four rest days, have one and a number of short days. A full rest day can be boring to a Pilgrim/Hiker. http://dermotdolan.blogspot.ie/2014/10/the-le-puy-route-gr65-chemin-st-jacques.html and my website has locations on the photographs http://caminogallery.com/gallery/?id=11&area=9 Regards Dermot

O

 

[Trumps]

Hi Dermot, thanks for your insight on the Via Podiensis. We are planning on walking from Le Puy to SJPdP in July 2018. Can you recommend any guidebooks to help us determine where to stay and eat? English versions are preferred but we'll settle for anything as the info for this stretch of the Camino is no where near as abundant as the Camino Frances.
Thanks in advance!
Pete

 

[nalod]

Hi Dermot, thanks for your insight on the Via Podiensis. We are planning on walking from Le Puy to SJPdP in July 2018. Can you recommend any guidebooks to help us determine where to stay and eat? English versions are preferred but we'll settle for anything as the info for this stretch of the Camino is no where near as abundant as the Camino Frances.
Thanks in advance!
Pete

Hello Trumps, yes in relation to accom and other services and cost the main on I used was Miam Miam Dodo. Get the most uo do date one. it also has maps, ok it is French but that does not really matter as they use symbols address location of place on map tel numbers and email. Do get it ,this is a photograph of an old one. It tell what languages is spoken in the place you are staying, loads of grate info. PM ME FOR more info if you think I can help. Regards Dermot

 

[AlwynWellington]

Can you recommend any guidebooks to help us determine where to stay and eat?

I agree that Miam Miam Dodo (MMD) has a comprehensive list of accommodation. At 250 grams it is quite heavy. And as the maps are quite high resolution each one covers about two or three hours walking. I found this good for planning and impractical in the field. If you are carrying a tablet, consider scanning (into PDF format, for example) what is relevant for you, for your own use only.

I also studied the TopoGuides published by FFRandomee. There three to cover Le Puy to Figeac, Figeac to Moissac and Moissac to Ronceveaux. They are comprehensive, good for local things to do and see and history of the localities you will walk through and weigh around 600 grams. Again, consider scanning for your own use.

I carried, in a front pocket, the Michelin Guide 161 Le Puy --> S Jean. At 90 grams this was more manageable. Two facing pages cover the stages they have selected. I put it back in the pocket still open at the current pages. Below is a sample. As you will see, it is designed to be polyglot.

I have no doubt owners of gite pay a fee to be listed and so may be selective about their listings. I took a strategy of usually stopping at the first gite I encountered on entering my stopping place for the day. If no room, then move onto the next. I was walking in April (and after Easter) I was only truly disappointed on one occasion. And often delighted beyond my expectations on so many nights. In France where you stay will often be where you eat, as so many stopping points are small villages. But, my banquet may be to your disgust. For me pot luck, in another country and with different ways of doing things, was a glorious part of the experience of being a pilgrim. And a way to meet so many people. And I do the best I can with my version of The Queen's English only.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

 

[Jose chemin]

You have all the info here above. Just enjoy the gite. They are smaller than the spanish ones but some are really friendly. I think you will enjoy this walk a lot.
The difficult part is untill figeac. After it is easier. You could rest in Conques or figeac and finish in Cahors where it is easy to go back to Paris." Bon chemin"

 

[Traveler66]

My rest-day suggestion is Espalais, the micro-town just before Auvillar. There is an incredible hostel there called "Le Par Chemin", where I ended up staying 3 extra days to help out. The decor is extremely cool and the spirit of the Camino and communal living is embodied completely by the proprietor, Vincent.

The first night it was booked to capacity, but they still managed to find room for three stray pilgrims with nowhere else to go. My second night the gîte was empty except for me and one other woman. We cooked and ate together, discussing the Camino and other subjects until very late.

I cannot recommend this spot more highly!

Bon Chemin!

Just your mention of this fantastic Gîte jumps my memories with happy internal videos. I agree that Vincent's accueil is too unique to miss for most pèlerins. The communal meal of fresh organic veggies, collectively made baked lasagna and the laughter, would be a BIG miss. Arrive early!

 

[Dreamluna]

Welcome Marcia.

Being a perverse critter I did my rest days before I started. Two nights (one full day) in both Lyon (great museum and wonderful buildings) and Le Puy (lots to see and checking out the start of the route) as I was unlikely to get to either again.

Once started there are around 750 km to S Jean. You don't mention your end point. So 22 days walking means an average of aroung 35 km each and every day.

With the exception of Cahors, most places are villages or small towns.

I planned to stop at Moissac for two nights after 14 days continuous. And did. The meals of Anne Vittot at Gite La Petite Lumiere (right on top of the hill, along side the statue of Mary, 4 Sentier du Calvaire) were wonderful whether there were 12 (on my first night) or two (on my second night). There was enough to keep me occupied on my rest day, including a walk (sans pack) down to the massive canal bridge and to see the tourist canal barges tied up in the pool.

And the day before, by serendipity, I stopped at Lauzerte. Like Conques, this is an ancient town but on top of a hill rising out of the surrounding country. They have not been precious and have built new on the old street plan. It was magic to walk around the town in the hour befor sunset and for an hour starting just before sunrise to see the buildings and the vistas. The communal meal in the village gite was a good occasion for me as a boring mono linguist.

La Romieu is worth a two hour stop to visit the collegiate church, to learn why cat statuary abounds, the history of one man who started and ended his days here after being locum during a papal vacancy of around two years, and of the political connection, for a long time, to the throne of England.

I had a forced two night stop at Eauze and recommend, the "cathedral", the Museum (and its Treasury) and the wonderful meals (and chat about Armangnc) over nearly three hours provided by Mme Marie-France of Gite La Grange (4 avenue de La Tenareze).

Communal meals at Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Arzaq, Arthez de Bearn and S Jean itself also stand out.

But the best part for me, an extreme introvert, was the people, the people, the people.

My blog (see below) may also be helpful.

I wish you well.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

Welcome Marcia.

Being a perverse critter I did my rest days before I started. Two nights (one full day) in both Lyon (great museum and wonderful buildings) and Le Puy (lots to see and checking out the start of the route) as I was unlikely to get to either again.

Once started there are around 750 km to S Jean. You don't mention your end point. So 22 days walking means an average of aroung 35 km each and every day.

With the exception of Cahors, most places are villages or small towns.

I planned to stop at Moissac for two nights after 14 days continuous. And did. The meals of Anne Vittot at Gite La Petite Lumiere (right on top of the hill, along side the statue of Mary, 4 Sentier du Calvaire) were wonderful whether there were 12 (on my first night) or two (on my second night). There was enough to keep me occupied on my rest day, including a walk (sans pack) down to the massive canal bridge and to see the tourist canal barges tied up in the pool.

And the day before, by serendipity, I stopped at Lauzerte. Like Conques, this is an ancient town but on top of a hill rising out of the surrounding country. They have not been precious and have built new on the old street plan. It was magic to walk around the town in the hour befor sunset and for an hour starting just before sunrise to see the buildings and the vistas. The communal meal in the village gite was a good occasion for me as a boring mono linguist.

La Romieu is worth a two hour stop to visit the collegiate church, to learn why cat statuary abounds, the history of one man who started and ended his days here after being locum during a papal vacancy of around two years, and of the political connection, for a long time, to the throne of England.

I had a forced two night stop at Eauze and recommend, the "cathedral", the Museum (and its Treasury) and the wonderful meals (and chat about Armangnc) over nearly three hours provided by Mme Marie-France of Gite La Grange (4 avenue de La Tenareze).

Communal meals at Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Arzaq, Arthez de Bearn and S Jean itself also stand out.

But the best part for me, an extreme introvert, was the people, the people, the people.

My blog (see below) may also be helpful.

I wish you well.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

Thank you, Alwyn, for all this info. I'll take notes...

 

[Richo]

I agree that Miam Miam Dodo (MMD) has a comprehensive list of accommodation. At 250 grams it is quite heavy. And as the maps are quite high resolution each one covers about two or three hours walking. I found this good for planning and impractical in the field. If you are carrying a tablet, consider scanning (into PDF format, for example) what is relevant for you, for your own use only.

I also studied the TopoGuides published by FFRandomee. There three to cover Le Puy to Figeac, Figeac to Moissac and Moissac to Ronceveaux. They are comprehensive, good for local things to do and see and history of the localities you will walk through and weigh around 600 grams. Again, consider scanning for your own use.

I carried, in a front pocket, the Michelin Guide 161 Le Puy --> S Jean. At 90 grams this was more manageable. Two facing pages cover the stages they have selected. I put it back in the pocket still open at the current pages. Below is a sample. As you will see, it is designed to be polyglot.

I have no doubt owners of gite pay a fee to be listed and so may be selective about their listings. I took a strategy of usually stopping at the first gite I encountered on entering my stopping place for the day. If no room, then move onto the next. I was walking in April (and after Easter) I was only truly disappointed on one occasion. And often delighted beyond my expectations on so many nights. In France where you stay will often be where you eat, as so many stopping points are small villages. But, my banquet may be to your disgust. For me pot luck, in another country and with different ways of doing things, was a glorious part of the experience of being a pilgrim. And a way to meet so many people. And I do the best I can with my version of The Queen's English only.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

I agree that Miam Miam Dodo (MMD) has a comprehensive list of accommodation. At 250 grams it is quite heavy. And as the maps are quite high resolution each one covers about two or three hours walking. I found this good for planning and impractical in the field. If you are carrying a tablet, consider scanning (into PDF format, for example) what is relevant for you, for your own use only.

I also studied the TopoGuides published by FFRandomee. There three to cover Le Puy to Figeac, Figeac to Moissac and Moissac to Ronceveaux. They are comprehensive, good for local things to do and see and history of the localities you will walk through and weigh around 600 grams. Again, consider scanning for your own use.

I carried, in a front pocket, the Michelin Guide 161 Le Puy --> S Jean. At 90 grams this was more manageable. Two facing pages cover the stages they have selected. I put it back in the pocket still open at the current pages. Below is a sample. As you will see, it is designed to be polyglot.

I have no doubt owners of gite pay a fee to be listed and so may be selective about their listings. I took a strategy of usually stopping at the first gite I encountered on entering my stopping place for the day. If no room, then move onto the next. I was walking in April (and after Easter) I was only truly disappointed on one occasion. And often delighted beyond my expectations on so many nights. In France where you stay will often be where you eat, as so many stopping points are small villages. But, my banquet may be to your disgust. For me pot luck, in another country and with different ways of doing things, was a glorious part of the experience of being a pilgrim. And a way to meet so many people. And I do the best I can with my version of The Queen's English only.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

Alwyn, I look forward to reading your blog. Currently I'm tossing up whether to walk the Via de la Plata or Le Puy this coming September (I walked the Frances in 2014, btw) I'm leaning toward the Le Puy route at this stage. One of the reasons for this is to take advantage of the gastronomic scene in rural France. I assume your blog makes many references to the food and wine. Any advice about other blogs or resources on the net to give more information about this topic, in particular, would be appreciated. As a monolinguist did you find yourself on the outer during communal meals and while on the march? I have moderate fluency in French - enough to understand a lot of conversation but have not actually spoken the language in years. I'm not sure if this will be a hinderance or a benefit .

 

[Thornley]

I'm not sure if this will be a hinderance or a benefi

No hinderance whats so ever
And yes there are some serious places Richo to enjoy food and wine.

 

[kayagee66]

Hi
If the moderators don't mind, can i suggest you go to facebook and search 'Way of St James - Via Podiensis'
Assuming you use facebook.
Send a request to join the group.
It is a very friendly group.
Any questions will be answered.
Lots of photos and information.
They love it when group members post photos and stories of their walking.
You won't be disappointed.

 

[kayagee66]

Welcome Marcia.

Being a perverse critter I did my rest days before I started. Two nights (one full day) in both Lyon (great museum and wonderful buildings) and Le Puy (lots to see and checking out the start of the route) as I was unlikely to get to either again.

Once started there are around 750 km to S Jean. You don't mention your end point. So 22 days walking means an average of aroung 35 km each and every day.

With the exception of Cahors, most places are villages or small towns.

I planned to stop at Moissac for two nights after 14 days continuous. And did. The meals of Anne Vittot at Gite La Petite Lumiere (right on top of the hill, along side the statue of Mary, 4 Sentier du Calvaire) were wonderful whether there were 12 (on my first night) or two (on my second night). There was enough to keep me occupied on my rest day, including a walk (sans pack) down to the massive canal bridge and to see the tourist canal barges tied up in the pool.

And the day before, by serendipity, I stopped at Lauzerte. Like Conques, this is an ancient town but on top of a hill rising out of the surrounding country. They have not been precious and have built new on the old street plan. It was magic to walk around the town in the hour befor sunset and for an hour starting just before sunrise to see the buildings and the vistas. The communal meal in the village gite was a good occasion for me as a boring mono linguist.

La Romieu is worth a two hour stop to visit the collegiate church, to learn why cat statuary abounds, the history of one man who started and ended his days here after being locum during a papal vacancy of around two years, and of the political connection, for a long time, to the throne of England.

I had a forced two night stop at Eauze and recommend, the "cathedral", the Museum (and its Treasury) and the wonderful meals (and chat about Armangnc) over nearly three hours provided by Mme Marie-France of Gite La Grange (4 avenue de La Tenareze).

Communal meals at Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Arzaq, Arthez de Bearn and S Jean itself also stand out.

But the best part for me, an extreme introvert, was the people, the people, the people.

My blog (see below) may also be helpful.

I wish you well.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

Being a fan of Classical History and 'The Ancient World podcast' i thought the treasury collection at the museum in Eauze was excellent. Small, doesn't take long to see it all, but excellent all the same.

 

[AlwynWellington]

As a monolinguist did you find yourself on the outer during communal meals and while on the march?

Occasionally regretted not understanding all that was going on. As I had taken French at college for five years I had practised a few phrases off pat. I found "Je regret, mais je ne parle pas Francais" showed some resonance with my surroundings and helped ease any situation. Or just a "hi" or "hello" and let the other take it from there, as they were inclined. And so many had English, especially the many Swiss (both German and French speakers).

In one gite the owner had no English. I carried an Android tablet and she had wifi: so fired up two instances of "translate" in a browser. I would type in English and she would read the translation. The swap to the second instance and she would type in French and I would read the translation, Then back to the first instance and repeat. Worked well.

A few days later the gite owner had been a professional rugby player. As we parted the next morning I said "Allez les bleu", to which he beamed. I then said "Allez ultreia les All Blacks" (go beyond/further ...). A frown was his response. But we still shook hands.

On another occasion the weather was totally miserable: pouring rain and strong winds, the temperature falling, I couldn't get my poncho on over my pack etc. I could feel my core temperature dropping as well. I was road walking that day and decided to hitch. No one wanted to pick up a wet walker with wet gear (and I don't blame them). Except a young woman with a "dunga" of a car. It took several minutes to understand her question (where was I from?) But as soon as she understood "New Zealand" she took her hands of the steering wheel and started to perform the haka "Ka mate". I continued so as to encourage her hands back to the steering wheel!!

Another ice breaker at meals I used several times was to invite the company to sing a song from their respective countries. Although not a singer myself I had typed up the text for "Pokarekara Ana" and would render one verse and the refrain. This is in Te Reo (the speech / language Maori) and so added a further dimension.

I wish you well.

 

[Traveler66]

Alwyn, I look forward to reading your blog. Currently I'm tossing up whether to walk the Via de la Plata or Le Puy this coming September (I walked the Frances in 2014, btw) I'm leaning toward the Le Puy route at this stage. One of the reasons for this is to take advantage of the gastronomic scene in rural France. I assume your blog makes many references to the food and wine. Any advice about other blogs or resources on the net to give more information about this topic, in particular, would be appreciated. As a monolinguist did you find yourself on the outer during communal meals and while on the march? I have moderate fluency in French - enough to understand a lot of conversation but have not actually spoken the language in years. I'm not sure if this will be a hinderance or a benefit .

No problem feeling left out in the evenings on the Le Puys Camino. In autumn 2014 I experienced only one night where I felt a little left out; I had somehow stopped at a Gîte where I was the only Anglophile surrounded by a german speaking group!)). But, after a bit of wine and food, we seemed to settle on Germlish(?)! It's The Way! The French pilgrims and villagers were wonderfully friendly on the Chemin. Mostly, the French pelerins all seemed fine speaking with me in English. They eagerly jumped in to the cross cultural exchange. I'm certain that you will prep by learning just a few greetings and good-bye phrases. I pre-memorized my introduction in French with a translater app: Je suis Richard.... Did I enjoy the Le Puys pilgrimage? The memories, the people, the country, the foods, the charm? Yes, as I'm happily walking her once again this August, 2017 ~ Bon Chemin!

 

[Richo]

Occasionally regretted not understanding all that was going on. As I had taken French at college for five years I had practised a few phrases off pat. I found "Je regret, mais je ne parle pas Francais" showed some resonance with my surroundings and helped ease any situation. Or just a "hi" or "hello" and let the other take it from there, as they were inclined. And so many had English, especially the many Swiss (both German and French speakers).

In one gite the owner had no English. I carried an Android tablet and she had wifi: so fired up two instances of "translate" in a browser. I would type in English and she would read the translation. The swap to the second instance and she would type in French and I would read the translation, Then back to the first instance and repeat. Worked well.

A few days later the gite owner had been a professional rugby player. As we parted the next morning I said "Allez les bleu", to which he beamed. I then said "Allez ultreia les All Blacks" (go beyond/further ...). A frown was his response. But we still shook hands.

On another occasion the weather was totally miserable: pouring rain and strong winds, the temperature falling, I couldn't get my poncho on over my pack etc. I could feel my core temperature dropping as well. I was road walking that day and decided to hitch. No one wanted to pick up a wet walker with wet gear (and I don't blame them). Except a young woman with a "dunga" of a car. It took several minutes to understand her question (where was I from?) But as soon as she understood "New Zealand" she took her hands of the steering wheel and started to perform the haka "Ka mate". I continued so as to encourage her hands back to the steering wheel!!

Another ice breaker at meals I used several times was to invite the company to sing a song from their respective countries. Although not a singer myself I had typed up the text for "Pokarekara Ana" and would render one verse and the refrain. This is in Te Reo (the speech / language Maori) and so added a further dimension.

I wish you well.

Thanks for that. Alwyn, you sounds like a foodie. Did you take the time to eat at restaurants? Which were your favourites and why?

 

[AlwynWellington]

Did you take the time to eat at restaurants? Which were your favourites and why?

No, not a foodie. On the chemin de Le Puy one usually eats in the gite. This was because most stops were very small villages without restaurants. The only big town restaurant I can recall eating in was in Figeac. I had started early from Livinhac-le-haut and crossed R Cele when I saw a restaurant nearing the end of its lunch time trade. The weather was kind (around mid April) and I sat the balcony outside overlooking the river. As well as being a mono-linguist of English, I was also used to traffic coming from the right. I was looking in that direction as I stepped onto the road to crossover to continue another 12 km to Beduer. And nearly got run over.

For me eating, like where to stay was pot-luck and part of the experience. The Figeac experience, while nice food, meant I was eating alone and so did not tarry over the meal.

 

[kayagee66]

Alwyn, I look forward to reading your blog. Currently I'm tossing up whether to walk the Via de la Plata or Le Puy this coming September (I walked the Frances in 2014, btw) I'm leaning toward the Le Puy route at this stage. One of the reasons for this is to take advantage of the gastronomic scene in rural France. I assume your blog makes many references to the food and wine. Any advice about other blogs or resources on the net to give more information about this topic, in particular, would be appreciated. As a monolinguist did you find yourself on the outer during communal meals and while on the march? I have moderate fluency in French - enough to understand a lot of conversation but have not actually spoken the language in years. I'm not sure if this will be a hinderance or a benefit .

I walked Le Puy - St. Jean in September last year. Perfect time of year. Still hot, but i imagine the VdlP would be hotter.
The route is full of fruits growing along it. Grapes, figs, blackberries etc. Also lots of nuts.
The food in the gites was superb. No need to eat in restaurants. One place had 15 kinds of cheese on the cheese board. Wine was great too
I recommend staying on a Ferme when possible. The ones i stayed on made their own cheese, yoghurt etc.
I speak next to no French. I can book a bed, and normal pleasantries. I managed just fine.
If i'm at a communal meal and hardly any English is spoken, it's still more than if i'd been sitting in a restaurant on my own.
I also recommend staying Demi-Pension, bed, communal meal, wine included, breakfast.
You will not find cafes everywhere for breakfast like in Spain.
In Spain bunk beds are everywhere, you do find them on the Le Puy route, but they are the exception.

 

[TaijiPilgrim]

Taiji, great info. Did you make a reservation way ahead of time or last minute? Do they speak English or Spanish there? I do NOT speak French

My husband made the reservation online at their website - in English. You might also find deals with booking.com. Just be sure you are booking the Ibis Styles at CDG airport - Roissy.

 

[Kitsambler]

... references to the food and wine. Any advice about other blogs ...

I'm told readers of my blog - on the Le Puy route and sections further east - often get hungry from my food descriptions. Link is in the signature block below.

 

[Richo]

I'm told readers of my blog - on the Le Puy route and sections further east - often get hungry from my food descriptions. Link is in the signature block below.

Thanks Kitsambler - I'll have read of it.

 

[Dreamluna]

I walked Le Puy - St. Jean in September last year. Perfect time of year. Still hot, but i imagine the VdlP would be hotter.
The route is full of fruits growing along it. Grapes, figs, blackberries etc. Also lots of nuts.
The food in the gites was superb. No need to eat in restaurants. One place had 15 kinds of cheese on the cheese board. Wine was great too
I recommend staying on a Ferme when possible. The ones i stayed on made their own cheese, yoghurt etc.
I speak next to no French. I can book a bed, and normal pleasantries. I managed just fine.
If i'm at a communal meal and hardly any English is spoken, it's still more than if i'd been sitting in a restaurant on my own.
I also recommend staying Demi-Pension, bed, communal meal, wine included, breakfast.
You will not find cafes everywhere for breakfast like in Spain.
In Spain bunk beds are everywhere, you do find them on the Le Puy route, but they are the exception.

I love the idea of not having someone sleeping in a top bed. That can be a nightmare, according to my experience. From what city did you return to Paris? I'm planning to walk up to Moissac (stage 20), but I don't know if they have a train station there.

 

[AlwynWellington]

I don't know if they have a train station (at Moissac)

There is a train station at Moissac. I've even stood on the platforms. It operates local trains with faster trains (TGV's, for example) just passing through.

Rome2Rio (also for example) shows many options for travel from Moissac to Paris.

 

[Thornley]

I love the idea of not having someone sleeping in a top bed. That can be a nightmare, according to my experience. From what city did you return to Paris? I'm planning to walk up to Moissac (stage 20), but I don't know if they have a train station there.

All trains will take 5 .30 hours.
First is @ 6am , 7am , 8.52am ,12.52pm etc etc.

Google Moissac to Paris and see what comes up.
Great Gite opposite train , run by a mad Irishman.
Stop no where else Dreamland, they are a beautiful couple.

 

[longwalker]

Hi, guys! This summer (June 2017), I am flying to Paris and then taking a train to Le Puy to start my Camino. I'm planning on walking 22 days and resting 4 days. I've heard that Conques is an amazing place to use one of my rest days. What other places do you recommend? Also, I'm leaving two days to tour Paris..... Does anyone in this forum know of a inexpensive but good place to stay? Somewhere close to the airport would be the best.

Waiting for insights and info...
Marcia

I would take a rest day at Le Puy, the rest will help you get over the jet lag and make the first few days of walking a lot easier. You can also meet the bishop of Le Puy if you go the cathedral first thing in the morning.

 

[Regine]

Welcome Marcia.

Being a perverse critter I did my rest days before I started. Two nights (one full day) in both Lyon (great museum and wonderful buildings) and Le Puy (lots to see and checking out the start of the route) as I was unlikely to get to either again.

Once started there are around 750 km to S Jean. You don't mention your end point. So 22 days walking means an average of aroung 35 km each and every day.

With the exception of Cahors, most places are villages or small towns.

I planned to stop at Moissac for two nights after 14 days continuous. And did. The meals of Anne Vittot at Gite La Petite Lumiere (right on top of the hill, along side the statue of Mary, 4 Sentier du Calvaire) were wonderful whether there were 12 (on my first night) or two (on my second night). There was enough to keep me occupied on my rest day, including a walk (sans pack) down to the massive canal bridge and to see the tourist canal barges tied up in the pool.

And the day before, by serendipity, I stopped at Lauzerte. Like Conques, this is an ancient town but on top of a hill rising out of the surrounding country. They have not been precious and have built new on the old street plan. It was magic to walk around the town in the hour befor sunset and for an hour starting just before sunrise to see the buildings and the vistas. The communal meal in the village gite was a good occasion for me as a boring mono linguist.

La Romieu is worth a two hour stop to visit the collegiate church, to learn why cat statuary abounds, the history of one man who started and ended his days here after being locum during a papal vacancy of around two years, and of the political connection, for a long time, to the throne of England.

I had a forced two night stop at Eauze and recommend, the "cathedral", the Museum (and its Treasury) and the wonderful meals (and chat about Armangnc) over nearly three hours provided by Mme Marie-France of Gite La Grange (4 avenue de La Tenareze).

Communal meals at Aumont-Aubrac, Nasbinals, Arzaq, Arthez de Bearn and S Jean itself also stand out.

But the best part for me, an extreme introvert, was the people, the people, the people.

My blog (see below) may also be helpful.

I wish you well.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

Thanks a lot! I plan to start my Camino Podiensis in April and found good information in your answer and also in your blog. Best wishes /Inger

 

[sharon w]

I think Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, although lacking a cathedral, is up there to rival Conques! Not necessarily a place for a rest day (like Conques it is small) but for those of you reading this thread, definitely worth the slight detour off the main route, and easy if you walk the Cele Valley route. It too is a perfectly preserved medieval village, perched high in a defensive position above the River Lot. Voted the most beautiful village in France in 2012. View attachment 31581

Loved this village. The Cele route is wonderful.