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LIVE from the Camino Rappahannock reports in, from Camino Francés

Past OR future Camino
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)

Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.

Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.

Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.

Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.

So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)

When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.

Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.

Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.

Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.

Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J
 
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alexwalker

Forever Pilgrim
Past OR future Camino
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)

Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.

Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.

Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.

Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.

So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)

When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.

Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.

Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.

Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.

Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J
Wish I was there...

Buen Camino!
 

Robo

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF SJPdP to SdC
(May 2015)
CF Sarria to SdC
(May 2016)
CF SJPDP-SdC
(May 2018)
VdlP (2022?)
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)

Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.

Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.

Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.

Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.

So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)

When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.

Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.

Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.

Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.

Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J

The hostal rimbombin looks like a real find. Great location!
I have used the Hotel Norte y Londres, which is older in style, but nice, and cheaper (for those on a smaller budget)
 

Robo

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF SJPdP to SdC
(May 2015)
CF Sarria to SdC
(May 2016)
CF SJPDP-SdC
(May 2018)
VdlP (2022?)
But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J

AT = Achilles Tendons?
Mine have been screwed on all my Caminos.
It will be hard to resolve while you still walk.
You may just have to live with it.

Try these. (at least this works for me. your mileage may vary)

Make sure to use R.I.C.E. Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation.
If you can get to a physio, do. Get them to show you how to tape the ATs.
Footwear off and ice a couple of times a day.
Lay down a couple of times a day with feet raised.
Change socks mid walk, just to feel better.
Hydrate!
Seek medical advice on meds if meds required. I did.
What works for me is Paracetemol + Ibruprofen every 4 hours whilst walking.
It takes the edge off.
(But get advice on it, as it can cause complications depending on your health)
Remember that Ibruprofen 'cream' is also the same drug.
So don't double dose with cream and tablets.

Gentle stretching helps to ease the ATs. Gentle.....
And start slow each day to let the ATs warm up.

Buen Camino...

Wish I was there!
 
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JennyH94

Pilgrim in progress
Past OR future Camino
CF - sections and whole (2012-2019) and part VF (2017)
The hostal rimbombin looks like a real find. Great location!
I have used the Hotel Norte y Londres, which is older in style, but nice, and cheaper (for those on a smaller budget)
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
 

Robo

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF SJPdP to SdC
(May 2015)
CF Sarria to SdC
(May 2016)
CF SJPDP-SdC
(May 2018)
VdlP (2022?)
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Oh Yes! I forgot the bath tubs!
 

Robo

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF SJPdP to SdC
(May 2015)
CF Sarria to SdC
(May 2016)
CF SJPDP-SdC
(May 2018)
VdlP (2022?)
Consider it done.
Take care of those tendons, and buen camino, @rappahannock_rev !

(I find the Burgos cathedral depressing. It's only the outer form of a cathedral, without essence. If I wanted to go to an art museum I'd have gone to an art museum.)

Agree 100%. I find Leon the same. No soul. Just a shell.
We've spoken about the 'energy' of these places in the past. :rolleyes:
 
Past OR future Camino
CF 2006,08,09,11,12(2),13(2),14,16(2),18(2) Aragones 11,12,VDLP 11,13,Lourdes 12,Malaga 16,Port 06
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J
Look at YOU!
I created a monster! lol!
Well ... an addict anyway...

So happy you're back on the Camino.
Praying your ATs heal quickly - walk slow - and take care of yourself.
Have a Blessed Camino!
Annie
 
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jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Madrid/San Salvador/Primitivo-2021
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)

Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.

Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.

Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.

Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.

So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)

When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.

Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.

Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.

Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.

Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J

I had problems with an AT on my first Camino. I stopped in a Farmacia in Fromista and this guy sold me a compression sock. Within three days no pain. I called it the Miracle sock.
 

evanscl

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Oct 2016
Hope it goes well. Do all that @Robo suggests plus massage where it hurts as much as you can bear - it helps warm it, moves waste metabolites away and brings fresh blood supply for healing and helps keep it supple and flexible. I had a bad tendon, very swollen, and it was massaging regularly and ‘stripping’ down the sides of it that returned it to a normal size eventually. But doing that does hurt i will warn you. As always, its your body, do what feels right for you.
 

Don's Brother

New Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2017)
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Jenny, My wife and I have the Hotel Norte y Londres booked for two nights this weekend. I have stayed there on two previous Caminos. It’s very comfortable and convenient. Mike
 

Scott Sweeney

Active Member
Yes
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)

Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.

Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.

Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.

Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.

So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)

When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.

Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.

Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.

Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.

Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J
Jeffery, hydrate always hydrate.
See you in a couple weeks.
 
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Past OR future Camino
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Look at YOU!
I created a monster! lol!
Well ... an addict anyway...

So happy you're back on the Camino.
Praying your ATs heal quickly - walk slow - and take care of yourself.
Have a Blessed Camino!
Annie
I owe you a lot, Annie! Ever thought of a group Aragones walk? Lourdes to Jaca, maybe?
 

Glenshiro

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Le Puy - León, Camino Frances (2012 - 2019)
Never been that keen on Burgos cathedral (and I love medieval buildings) after I spotted "Jose Antonio Primo de Rivera" deeply incised on the wall to the right of the main steps leading up to the front door.
 

Anamiri

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
2016, 2017, 2019 Camino Frances
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny
Yes I stay there specifically for that nice deep bath
 

Anamiri

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
2016, 2017, 2019 Camino Frances
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)

Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.

Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.

Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.

Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.

So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)

When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.

Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.

Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.

Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.

Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.

Pax. Fr. J
Some years ago, when I had a sore AT, a physio suggested low gel inserts in the heels of the shoes to lift my heel ever so slightly and take the stretch off the tendon until it settled. It was cheap and worked, the relief was instant - maybe you could ask a health person if that is worth trying for you?
 
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JennyH94

Pilgrim in progress
Past OR future Camino
CF - sections and whole (2012-2019) and part VF (2017)
Jenny, My wife and I have the Hotel Norte y Londres booked for two nights this weekend. I have stayed there on two previous Caminos. It’s very comfortable and convenient. Mike
Have a wonderful stay Mike! And enjoy those delicious breakfasts in the lovely breakfast room too.
Please also tell the friendly Reception staff that the hotel is a Forum favourite!
Cheers and best wishes from Oz -
Jenny
 

Robo

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF SJPdP to SdC
(May 2015)
CF Sarria to SdC
(May 2016)
CF SJPDP-SdC
(May 2018)
VdlP (2022?)
The Hotel Norte y Londres is an absolute ‘must’ for me in Burgos. I love it for its history, its charm, its sensational breakfasts and for the fact that most rooms have a deep bathtub in the en-suite bathrooms. Bliss!
Cheers - Jenny

Oh. Look what I found on their website!
A list of similar Hotels :)
 

Lhollo

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
CF pt2, Belorado to Sarria, May 21 – June 12, 2022
Buen camino! I hope it’s going well for you now and that the AT trouble is proving manageable somehow (treatments found in Burgos perhaps, etc?). Wishing you well for the meseta stages.
 
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Past OR future Camino
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!

Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.

Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....

Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.

Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.

Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.

Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.

More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!

A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....

Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."

At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....

Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)

Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.

Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
 
Last edited:

Scott Sweeney

Active Member
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!

Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.

Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....

Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.

Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.

Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.

Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.

More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!

A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....

Thurs Sept 16 . Up and down "rest day."

At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....

Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)

Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.

Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
Okay, no more play time alone for you. Or we will have to hitch training wheels to your legs. :)
 
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Scott Sweeney

Active Member
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!

Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.

Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....

Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.

Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.

Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.

Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.

More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!

A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....

Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."

At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....

Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)

Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.

Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
Just so you know we'll be thinking and sending prayers your way today, I will drink your share of the wine on the patio today. ;-). Be safe Jeff.
 

CaptBuddy

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Fall 2012, again Fall 2014.
So sorry for your leg/feet problems, I hope you get them cleared up soon.

But on the other hand, you are making me ache for two of my favorite Spanish cities, Burgos and Leon.
Whether on Camino, or as free-wheeling tourists, Beth and I always make a point to spend some time in each. Thank for making the memories flood back to me.

Best wishes, and speedy recovery.
 

jalluisi

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
October 2020
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!

Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.

Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....

Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.

Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.

Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.

Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.

More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!

A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....

Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."

At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....

Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)

Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.

Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
I hope you tendon feel better soon. Maybe put some tea oil oil for inflammation.
 
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Past OR future Camino
Frances (July 2020)
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!

Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.

Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....

Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.

Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.

Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.

Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.

More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!

A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....

Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."

At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....

Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)

Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.

Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.
Sending you healing warmth.
 

Priscilla NC

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Spring 2016: Camino Frances, Finisterre and Muxia
April 2019: Frances, Salvador, Primitivo
Sending prayers your way. I too love the Taberna Aurea. When I was hobbled with sciatica on my last camino, I spent many hours there.

Blessings!
 

elizason

Member
Past OR future Camino
Lisbon- Santiago Sept-Oct 2015
Never had such leg/foot troubles before. Changes one's perspective!

Tues Sept 14, gorgeous weather.

Low stress day, timely because of tendon pain. Bussed Burgos-Mansilla de Las Mulas and enjoyed every minute of the ride. Bus allowed me glimpses of several fondly remembered places: Carrion, Terradillos, Sahagun....

Hobbled to the Albergueria del Camino. Had stayed there in 2019 and liked it. Good price, fine old fashioned rooms, excellent restaurant, caters to peregrinos. In fact, everyone else who checked in that day was walking the Way! And all from Holland!! I'd already seen what little quiet Mansilla has to offer, so mostly just chilled, trying not to feel sorry for myself. Bought lots of ibuprofeno fuerte at the town farmacia! Evident signs of town in recession.

Plan had been to start walking west from Mansilla, but by bedtime I knew that that wasn't happening.

Weds Sept 15, more gorgeous weather. Would have been great walking day.

Bussed to Leon early am, and mostly just idled, people watching, till the Hostal San Martin (don't confuse with the parador!) opened at 2 pm. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Hole in the wall place smack dab in El Centro, ok room with spacious bathroom and tub, good price. Caters to peregrinos, can fill up fast.

More masks being worn than in Burgos, but they all come off in bars/restaurants. Again, more peregrinos than expected -- mostly Europeans, not Americans. Many cyclists. Fewer shuttered shops, general air of prosperity. Bustling!

A lot more time today spent sipping on terraces and people watching than would be normal for restless ole me. Might be as much age (68) as aching tendons, I suppose. But my, how surprisingly nice just to be sitting still....

Thurs Sept 16. Up and down "rest day."

At 10 am toured the Cathedral. Now there's a cathedral! Best in toda Espana! Still very much a place of worship. I hobbled, and sat a lot, and enjoyed every minute of it. Specially enjoyed seeing again my old bespectacled friend, St. Luke, in the Calvary side chapel. (I've been the priest at a St. Luke's Parish for 11 years now.) ... Noticed for the first time the memorial to the several dozen Leonese priests and seminarians murdered "for God and Country," 1936-39. May light perpetual shine....

Then stupidly fell touring the fine Cathedral Museum in late pm, reinjuring my left foot. (#$@@&#! again) End of today's adventures! But I won't let that stop my walking out of Leon to Villar de Mazarife tomorrow! (See Matt 19:26.)

Peaceful late dinner on the terrace at an old favorite Plaza del Grano restaurant, Taberna Aurea, several more ibuprofen, and to bed.

Pax. 6:27 pm Leon time.

Sending prayers your way. I too love the Taberna Aurea. When I was hobbled with sciatica on my last camino, I spent many hours there.

Blessings!
Hello
I am 67
This year I was having very bad muscle spasms and tendon pain
I began taking magnesium.
It has helped tremendously
I am on The Frances now and still have pain but not as severe as before
Just Good ole ageing aches
best wishes !
 
Past OR future Camino
cycled from Pamplona Sep 2015;Frances, walked from St Jean May/June 2017. Plans to walk Porto 2020
Hola @rappahannock_rev Also sorry to hear about your misfortune. Did you seek medical attention for your problems??

I have been inside the cathedrals at Burgos and Leon on both of my Camino Frances pilgrimages. The first time Burgos completely blew me away. I spent over 4 hours taking it all in. On my second visit it was just too crowded and impression I formed was that this was not a church that the locals attend Mass on Sundays (my opinion - Please!).
Leon, on the other hand totally filled me with the love of the locals. It was a church that was also a cathedral - a venue to enjoy attending Sunday Mass. Hopefully I can return in the not to distant future. Buen Camino.
 
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Past OR future Camino
Frances 2016; Mansill de las Mulas to Finisterre/Muxia 2017; Aragones 2018; Suso/Yuso, Meseta 2019
Father Jeff, I am currently on the Aragones with my walking companion in Monreal doing my “long version”, this time minus the sailplane ride. We are having a tinto while discussing our favorite places, Arres tops the list so far! Muy buen Camino! I finally got to see the Witches Caves and dolmen in Villanua!
 

Frank Wortley

Member
Past OR future Camino
French Caminos - April/May 2013, March/April 2017 and (Sept/Oct 2018)
Arrived in Burgos by bus from Barajas around 1:30 pm on Monday Sept 12. Visit #4. And shortest visit, btw. (First one in 1977.)
Georgeous weather. Strolled easily into the Old Quarter, then lunched on the busy pedestrianized street La Paloma, at Los Tonales. Food not as good as I remembered it, but the view of enormous crowds of Sunday-dressed walkers was wonderful.
Checked into near-by hostal rimbombin close to the Plaza Mayor. Had stayed there in 2017 and liked it. Good price, good austere modern room, stupendous location -- and great tapas bar downstairs. What more could you want? Showered, rested, recovered from long anxious trip from the USA.
Spent the rest of the day just strolling, soaking up old familiar scenes, thanking God for letting me visit again. Ended it sipping wine on the terrace of a Plaza Mayor restaurant. Had observed more Camino peregrinos than expected. Slept the sleep of the just.
Monday Sept 13 - my only allotted day for Burgos. Have never missed Las Huelgas, but it's not open on Monday. Neither is the Military Museum. Nor the church of St. Gil, a favorite.
So I hiked to the Carthusian Monastery of Miraflores, just a few clicks out of town, and about the only Burgos "site" I'd missed on my previous visits. Foolishly tried a shortcut, got hopelessly lost, ended up wandering around on steep wooded hillsides - and basically blowing out both my ATs. (#@$&+#)
When I got there I was impressed. Smaller than I'd imagined, but gorgeous. My painful legs lessened the pleasure, however, and I wasn't about to hike back. Cabbed it instead.
Rested briefly, then toured the Cathedral. A must, of course, but more of an art museum than a place of worship, to my mind. I was surprised and disappointed this time. It had a kind of "wounded" air about it. Small crowds of visitors. No audio tours for rent. Several side chapels closed off. All pews removed from before the high altar, no places to sit and think.... Almost as if they didn't want visitors! And again, my legs hurt.
Balance of the day spent just soaking things up. Finished at twilight with wine on the Bonfin restaurant terrace, overlooking Cathedral Square. Slept well again.
Masks worn in all interior spaces but largely ignored in the streets and eating establishments. Some shuttered shops, and no sight of the "tren turistica". But overall Burgos looked happy and pretty normal. As I said, I saw more peregrinos than expected.
Bussed it next day to Mansilla de Las Mulas to actually begin my walking on this trip. But very concerned about my ATs. Gonna need a lot of ibuprofen and voltaran creme! Pray for me.
Pax. Fr. J
 
Past OR future Camino
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Fri Sept 17. Weather excellent.

Pushed off on foot from Leon to Villar de Mazarife, full of ibuprofen and righteous zeal, bright and early, hoping my injured left foot would cooperate. It wouldn't. I made it only to Virgin del Camino, where I reinjured it....

On my way out of Leon I noticed that the Hostal Don Suero de Quinones, where I'd stayed in 2012, has closed permanently. Pandemic victim? Pity.

In Virgin I got my first real look at it's celebrated modern 1961 church. Not to my taste! The statues of the apostles on the facade said "LOTR Nazgul" to me. Genuinely creepy.

So then I bussed the rest of the way to rustic Villar. The Albergue Tio Pepe there is a good place. Dined with three other American peregrinos, and I was the youngest!

Sat Sept 18. Weather excellent.

Cabbed, spent day in Hospital del Orbigo. Blah day. After you've seen the long, celebrated bridge again there's simply nothing to do but sip vino, eh?! Frankly feeling a bit blue.

Sun Sept 19.

Still having to favor injured and painful foot, I bussed it to Astorga and cked into the Astor Plaza, on the Plaza Mayor. Not as nice as I had hoped, but unbeatable location. Spent most of the day just soaking up the scene and staying off my feet. Enjoyed a nice loud demonstration against violence towards women. Who can argue with that? ... Always liked Astorga.

Mon Sept 20. "Rest" Day in Astorga

Bought more ibuprofen, and some medical compression wrap, and two Nordic style trekking poles. Never have needed such poles before. Hope springs eternal. Back on the way tomorrow?

Toured the Gaudi Palace, as required by the Official Camino Rule Book. Notably improved since 2017, but still left me unmoved. Out of place. Too Disney. Toured the Cathedral and it's fine attendant Museum, and attended Mass. Very satisfying. Noticed for the first time the memorial to the Astorga nurse martyrs of 1936, whose cause for beatification is pending in Rome. May light perpetual shine....

Great town for people watching. Love that plaza with the fountain/statue of a proud Spanish lion mauling one of Napoleon's imperial eagles!

Still more walkers and cyclists than I'd expected, but overall numbers may be just a bit below the Camino's own expectations. My experience, and my conversations with others, suggest that reservations ahead might not needed for most places. Much public attention is currently directed to a dramatically erupting volcano in the Canaries.

Mi corazon vive in Espana.

Pax.
 
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Past OR future Camino
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Sept 21 -- West from Astorga

Well, gave it my best shot. And the Camino provided, as they say.

Had spent many restful low-foot-stress days recovering from 09/13 left foot injury outside Miraflores Monastery, Burgos. Armed myself with lots of ibuprofeno and compression wrap. Bought brand new Nordic trekking poles. Carrying lightest load possible on my back. Good weather for walking. Filled with righteous zeal! To be my first real walking day!! Results? Mixed.

Left ancient Astorga on foot 7:45 am headed for rustic Rabanal, against advice. But ground easy and level and familiar.... So went for it.

Mixed initial opinion on those trekking poles. Positive? Made me pay attention to my pace and my safety. Made me walk much slower than normal. Made me walk back erect, good for back. Negative? Stressed my hands and forearms. Will take getting used to! One pole kept coming apart. Will continue to use poles, and try to profit thereby.

Two hours to first break and cafe con leche. Hour and a half to second break and Fanta limon soda and more ibuprofeno. Another hour to El Ganso, where I found the famous Cowboy Bar closed!!! By this time my left foot was really stressed. I was visibly in pain. I asked an elderly local man about bus service to Rabanal -- none. Asked about hiring a taxi. At which point he offered to drive me to Rabanal himself, gratis! And did! God bless him!

So arrived at Rabanal 2 pm. Lunched and checked in to El Tesin, where I'd stayed in 2017. Nice place. Caters to pilgrims like everything else in town. And then I literally went nowhere! Just babyed my foot. Good thing there's nothing much to see in Rabanal. Even skipped the monks.... Lots of walkers today. Lots of cyclists. (Don't think much of cyclists!) And today Fall fell. Much colder than I'd expected or planned for....

Sticking to original itinerary, so tomorrow it's up and over to El Acebo. But will taxi over the mountain! I don't really need another visit to the Cruz de Ferro and I just don't want to take risks with my fragile foot. I may be enthusiastic but I'm not stupid! This trip is very different from my previous ones. But damn, I'm glad to be here again, and must trust that all will be well.

Mi corazon vive en Espana.

Pax.
 
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Past OR future Camino
Frances 2016; Mansill de las Mulas to Finisterre/Muxia 2017; Aragones 2018; Suso/Yuso, Meseta 2019
Fr. Jeff, I could have written your post! I am fine but my dear walking companion has been having severe pain with his back and hips! We are both loving the trip, the vino, the kindness of the Spanish people, but the pain is too much! We are very much looking forward this week to two nights at the Hostería in San Millan de la Cogolla!
 

AlwynWellington

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
please see signature
@rappahannock_rev said:
"Have never missed Las Huelgas ... Nor the church of St. Gil"

Thanks you for noting these two. Having viewed them online, they are now on my list should I ever return to Burgos

I'm a slow learner, but hope you were able to complete this pilgrimage as you would want.

Kia kaha, kia maia, kia manawanui (be strong, patient and confident)
 
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AlwynWellington

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
please see signature
@VNwalking said:
I find the Burgos cathedral depressing. It's only the outer form of a cathedral, without essence
and @Robo agreed 100%

With a commercial background I saw one part of this cathedral (and former abbey) fascinating. Almost without exception, abbeys are built on generally flat land. Burgos Abbey (and cathedral) is built on a hill side. With the outcome of the cloister being on two levels. The upper level backs onto the abbey church and the lower level fronts the street. While there is no cloister garth to speak of, it did allow the scriptorium to operate on the north side of both levels. Or so the information notes said on my visit in 2010. I suspect the monks writing on the lower level would have used a lot of candle power to see clearly what they were doing.

Kia kaha
 

nycwalking

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
Ourense to Santiago (2019), CF: (2014, 2004, 2002, 2001). On to Fisterra, (2002, 4, 14).
Sept 21 -- West from Astorga

Well, gave it my best shot. And the Camino provided, as they say.

Had spent many restful low-foot-stress days recovering from 09/13 left foot injury outside Miraflores Monastery, Burgos. Armed myself with lots of ibuprofeno and compression wrap. Bought brand new Nordic trekking poles. Carrying lightest load possible on my back. Good weather for walking. Filled with righteous zeal! To be my first real walking day!! Results? Mixed.

Left ancient Astorga on foot 7:45 am headed for rustic Rabanal, against advice. But ground easy and level and familiar.... So went for it.

Mixed initial opinion on those trekking poles. Positive? Made me pay attention to my pace and my safety. Made me walk much slower than normal. Made me walk back erect, good for back. Negative? Stressed my hands and forearms. Will take getting used to! One pole kept coming apart. Will continue to use poles, and try to profit thereby.

Two hours to first break and cafe con leche. Hour and a half to second break and Fanta limon soda and more ibuprofeno. Another hour to El Ganso, where I found the famous Cowboy Bar closed!!! By this time my left foot was really stressed. I was visibly in pain. I asked an elderly local man about bus service to Rabanal -- none. Asked about hiring a taxi. At which point he offered to drive me to Rabanal himself, gratis! And did! God bless him!

So arrived at Rabanal 2 pm. Lunched and checked in to El Tesin, where I'd stayed in 2017. Nice place. Caters to pilgrims like everything else in town. And then I literally went nowhere! Just babyed my foot. Good thing there's nothing much to see in Rabanal. Even skipped the monks.... Lots of walkers today. Lots of cyclists. (Don't think much of cyclists!) And today Fall fell. Much colder than I'd expected or planned for....

Sticking to original itinerary, so tomorrow it's up and over to El Acebo. But will taxi over the mountain! I don't really need another visit to the Cruz de Ferro and I just don't want to take risks with my fragile foot. I may be enthusiastic but I'm not stupid! This trip is very different from my previous ones. But damn, I'm glad to be here again, and must trust that all will be well.

Mi corazon vive en Espana.

Pax.

It’s been a week since last post.

Everything okay?
 
Past OR future Camino
First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
Time to move on from this thread. (And thank you, nycwalking, for asking....)

My 2021 pilgrimage is over, and I'm safely home. It was, as every pilgrimage is, an extraordinary experience. But a difficult one. On my very first day on the Way I injured my left foot. I should have seen a doctor straight away, but didn't. ("No way! I'm a real man! I can handle this!") I carried on as best I could. I stuck to my itinerary, although I simply couldn't walk it properly, as I wanted to do. 7 to 8 km a day was the best I could ever manage, and that in great pain. Cheap local buses and occasional taxis were essential.

I'll post a number of specific notes about my walk soon enough, including one about my meeting with Ivar in SdeC!

I saw my doctor (an old friend) when I got home. He said "You broke your ankle, you idiot!" and put me in a Frankenstein boot.

No stupid shortcuts for me, next time.

Pax. Fr. J

ivd0EGjtJc4dn6RrRxTw3sJ8wGVd46MpppzLNiDgfWhxcvtaIazsxOz9waJkohARHEKvERx5LzKK-6dZPBFN6o878dGhuL1iEKK__gr1U1Ko4lV7da_qHX0qv_K1TqfixLCQMnJZKUke9IDvgI1_gj13LdFNtWV0I6bMtE3_oiMgXxp1qA7yU8b0fQcSfl6nFsg5W9pFV7nEIZyx2_InMv3vEW7kocohumFJEsQxfUB4q76h9nhJTHCzTp-GlNVdp1nmSKxxxnB2Wu1QfzYmmY29e9laBFdu00H-CEM1KWMAhIi0PEwlce_AMeSHgOkCQI_pYyVvZHjDoXqKp4huCV3iZyq8E3oPdZuUpJnL_ocyvYbZykbiQ7kXu0NNwGsYs0mAMykcdq1_Jm0FnZxWQ0_w2YPC5JBxKAXiYksSnvyck6fftK0ajWJN5xdH8F4z-4qgtj_kwMOcPgExlf3fb2yokymjsyaeeNlmlMhAQ6nWGDApb441O3LT-gzo8R6zu-porJnM2NsFGfg-7fXMXAjapPWU81JrlVegZ27rTg_pDXfGmq2K9ClpW9ynt4cw-hIPf7XH7UN6z0VafnO_mPcIpIr7nQlsqG4uhne_ROL9kTP4Xv0Zyuqs2b1r_M10O0W49Ns60Gzl8taNcwiFEX5sfub1sJyUL2w8cU367FLlRQtngwzIN49wcMwRq2iyZMW4rQrJ2QoBTAFRJR3rq8Mx5w=w703-h937-no
 
Last edited:
Past OR future Camino
CF 2006,08,09,11,12(2),13(2),14,16(2),18(2) Aragones 11,12,VDLP 11,13,Lourdes 12,Malaga 16,Port 06
Time to move on from this thread. (And thank you, nycwalking, for asking....)

My 2021 pilgrimage is over, and I'm safely home. It was, as every pilgrimage is, an extraordinary experience. But a difficult one. One my very first day on the Way I injured my left foot. I should have seen a doctor straight away, but didn't. ("No way! I'm a real man! I can handle this!") I carried on as best I could. I stuck to my itinerary, although I simply couldn't walk it properly, as I wanted to do. 7 to 8 km a day was the best I could ever manage, and that in great pain. Cheap local buses and occasional taxis were essential.

I'll post a number of specific notes about my walk soon enough, including one about my meeting with Ivar in SdeC!

I saw my doctor (an old friend) when I got home. He said "You broke your ankle, you idiot!" and put me in a Frankenstein boot.

No stupid shortcuts for me, next time.

Pax. Fr. J

ivd0EGjtJc4dn6RrRxTw3sJ8wGVd46MpppzLNiDgfWhxcvtaIazsxOz9waJkohARHEKvERx5LzKK-6dZPBFN6o878dGhuL1iEKK__gr1U1Ko4lV7da_qHX0qv_K1TqfixLCQMnJZKUke9IDvgI1_gj13LdFNtWV0I6bMtE3_oiMgXxp1qA7yU8b0fQcSfl6nFsg5W9pFV7nEIZyx2_InMv3vEW7kocohumFJEsQxfUB4q76h9nhJTHCzTp-GlNVdp1nmSKxxxnB2Wu1QfzYmmY29e9laBFdu00H-CEM1KWMAhIi0PEwlce_AMeSHgOkCQI_pYyVvZHjDoXqKp4huCV3iZyq8E3oPdZuUpJnL_ocyvYbZykbiQ7kXu0NNwGsYs0mAMykcdq1_Jm0FnZxWQ0_w2YPC5JBxKAXiYksSnvyck6fftK0ajWJN5xdH8F4z-4qgtj_kwMOcPgExlf3fb2yokymjsyaeeNlmlMhAQ6nWGDApb441O3LT-gzo8R6zu-porJnM2NsFGfg-7fXMXAjapPWU81JrlVegZ27rTg_pDXfGmq2K9ClpW9ynt4cw-hIPf7XH7UN6z0VafnO_mPcIpIr7nQlsqG4uhne_ROL9kTP4Xv0Zyuqs2b1r_M10O0W49Ns60Gzl8taNcwiFEX5sfub1sJyUL2w8cU367FLlRQtngwzIN49wcMwRq2iyZMW4rQrJ2QoBTAFRJR3rq8Mx5w=w703-h937-no
My GOSH! I am SO sorry! I can't believe you carried on, you silly thing!
Well, prayers for quick healing headed your way.
::shaking her head in disbelief:::
 
Past OR future Camino
CF 2006,08,09,11,12(2),13(2),14,16(2),18(2) Aragones 11,12,VDLP 11,13,Lourdes 12,Malaga 16,Port 06
@VNwalking said:
I find the Burgos cathedral depressing. It's only the outer form of a cathedral, without essence
and @Robo agreed 100%
Ooooh, I have to respectfully disagree!
I once spent 8 hours in the Burgos Cathedral looking at the art.
Fantastic place (for me)
 
Camino Maps
A collection of Camino Maps from the Camino Forum Store
2022 Camino Guides
The 2022 Camino guides will be coming out little by little, most of them by the end of 2021. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Past OR future Camino
CF July 2018
VDLP April 2019
Time to move on from this thread. (And thank you, nycwalking, for asking....)

My 2021 pilgrimage is over, and I'm safely home. It was, as every pilgrimage is, an extraordinary experience. But a difficult one. One my very first day on the Way I injured my left foot. I should have seen a doctor straight away, but didn't. ("No way! I'm a real man! I can handle this!") I carried on as best I could. I stuck to my itinerary, although I simply couldn't walk it properly, as I wanted to do. 7 to 8 km a day was the best I could ever manage, and that in great pain. Cheap local buses and occasional taxis were essential.

I'll post a number of specific notes about my walk soon enough, including one about my meeting with Ivar in SdeC!

I saw my doctor (an old friend) when I got home. He said "You broke your ankle, you idiot!" and put me in a Frankenstein boot.

No stupid shortcuts for me, next time.

Pax. Fr. J

ivd0EGjtJc4dn6RrRxTw3sJ8wGVd46MpppzLNiDgfWhxcvtaIazsxOz9waJkohARHEKvERx5LzKK-6dZPBFN6o878dGhuL1iEKK__gr1U1Ko4lV7da_qHX0qv_K1TqfixLCQMnJZKUke9IDvgI1_gj13LdFNtWV0I6bMtE3_oiMgXxp1qA7yU8b0fQcSfl6nFsg5W9pFV7nEIZyx2_InMv3vEW7kocohumFJEsQxfUB4q76h9nhJTHCzTp-GlNVdp1nmSKxxxnB2Wu1QfzYmmY29e9laBFdu00H-CEM1KWMAhIi0PEwlce_AMeSHgOkCQI_pYyVvZHjDoXqKp4huCV3iZyq8E3oPdZuUpJnL_ocyvYbZykbiQ7kXu0NNwGsYs0mAMykcdq1_Jm0FnZxWQ0_w2YPC5JBxKAXiYksSnvyck6fftK0ajWJN5xdH8F4z-4qgtj_kwMOcPgExlf3fb2yokymjsyaeeNlmlMhAQ6nWGDApb441O3LT-gzo8R6zu-porJnM2NsFGfg-7fXMXAjapPWU81JrlVegZ27rTg_pDXfGmq2K9ClpW9ynt4cw-hIPf7XH7UN6z0VafnO_mPcIpIr7nQlsqG4uhne_ROL9kTP4Xv0Zyuqs2b1r_M10O0W49Ns60Gzl8taNcwiFEX5sfub1sJyUL2w8cU367FLlRQtngwzIN49wcMwRq2iyZMW4rQrJ2QoBTAFRJR3rq8Mx5w=w703-h937-no
I hope you can return soon, such awful luck. BC
 

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