I recently completed the camino Levante. I started solo from Valencia, but joined up with other solo walkers for a good part of the way. Here are a few comments and opinions.
Credentials
Not available from the Cathedral. It seems the only place in Valencia that issues credentials is the Amigos office, however they are open only two hours per week. The Amigos credential is a very pretty document and of course fairly unique.
Waymarking
Generally good, but not always obvious. At intersections the arrows are not always at the location you might expect. Frequently they are located a little way down the correct path, so you have to make your best call on which path is correct and perhaps even walk a short way down the track. With the maps and common sense you will make the right call 90% of the time. It sometimes just takes a bit of patience, but is worth the effort to get it right as confirmation arrows can be far apart and it could be quite a while before you realise you are on the wrong path. The maps in the Amigos guide are invaluable.
The only really bad way marking was the last 25 km into Zamora, where I saw only one yellow arrow and that took me to a forest where I really didn't want to be. (See Laurie's notes about this). The instructions in the Amigos guide for this last section were quite adequate though the road walking among the fast moving traffic was a bit harrowing. In this area there were plenty of signs for the GR14 Senda del Duero, and I suspect that it would have been better to have followed that route from Villaralbo to Zamora. The Amigos instructions take you along the ZA-P-1102 and the C-605. The last section in particular has a lot of traffic. The direction marker in Villaralbo for the GR14 suggested a route between the main roads and the Duero., and the Amigos maps show that there is such a road.
The Levante/Sureste uncertainty was not a problem, thanks to previous postings. The two trouble spots at Minaya and Medina del Campo have both been covered by others and in summary are:
Minaya: at the Hotel Antolin cross the asphalt highway and follow the yellow arrow that takes you on a gravel road at right angles to the asphalt highway. Disregard the yellow arrow on a blue background near the hotel as it will send you down the Sureste.
Medina del Campo: standing with your back to the church of Santiago and the careterra in front of you, cross the careterra (there is a yellow arrow on the pole) and walk straight on down the road. The road bears left after about 40 metres - you are now on your way. You will see the rail bridge in front of you.
Signposting to the farmhouse about 7 km after San Clemente (see Laurie's notes) has still not been fixed. If you have Laurie's notes it is pretty obvious what to do.
Sometimes marking disappears in towns or villages. The instructions in the Amigos guide are usually sufficient to find the way. Occasionally may need to ask someone for directions.
The Way
Mostly very flat, with a few glorious days in the mountains between Escalona and Avila. Some stages recommended in the Amigos guide are a bit long, but can usually be broken into shorter distances.
The initial few days on asphalt are hard on the feet. I got small blisters on both heels for the first time ever, which I put down to repetitious striding on a hard surface.
Some of the stages would be brutal in hot weather as there is no shade, no fountain or any village to offer relief. The going was hot even in early April.
A previous comment by Laurie that the weather gods have decreed good weather for this camino still applies; I had only half a day of rain. However, if there is bad weather I feel it would have quite a hampering effect. There would be some serious mud in the early stages, as I saw when some overenthusiastic crop watering drenched part of the way. Also, some of the bogs in the mountains could be a problem.
Accommodation
Used a mixture of hostals/casa rurals and albergues, either taken from Laurie's post or from the recommended lists in the Amigos Guide. Hostal accommodation was generally very good and costs were mostly in the €15 to €25 range. Albergues ranged from quite basic to excellent, (Gotterrandura). Most albergues are not staffed and key collection, from a variety of sources, is required.
Accommodation is generally freely available, though be warned that both hostals in Escalona have closed and the only option now is the albergue in the local gymnasium - which is fine.
Pilgrim Numbers
Low, but increasing. From Valencia to Zamora I saw 1 group of five, 2 pairs and 5 singles, mostly fleetingly and in the evenings. It was extremely rare to see another pilgrim while walking.
Spanish
Very useful as virtually no English is spoken, anywhere. Particularly useful when collecting albergue keys, arranging albergue protocols and key drop offs as all have to be done in Spanish. My Spanish is only at the basic level but was invaluable. It's also a great conversation starter.
Enjoyable?
Absolutely. Wide open spaces. Castles. Famous cities. Some unheralded but very attractive towns. More castles. A chance to get way from it all. A physical challenge. And, as always the wonderfully hospitable Spanish people.
Credentials
Not available from the Cathedral. It seems the only place in Valencia that issues credentials is the Amigos office, however they are open only two hours per week. The Amigos credential is a very pretty document and of course fairly unique.
Waymarking
Generally good, but not always obvious. At intersections the arrows are not always at the location you might expect. Frequently they are located a little way down the correct path, so you have to make your best call on which path is correct and perhaps even walk a short way down the track. With the maps and common sense you will make the right call 90% of the time. It sometimes just takes a bit of patience, but is worth the effort to get it right as confirmation arrows can be far apart and it could be quite a while before you realise you are on the wrong path. The maps in the Amigos guide are invaluable.
The only really bad way marking was the last 25 km into Zamora, where I saw only one yellow arrow and that took me to a forest where I really didn't want to be. (See Laurie's notes about this). The instructions in the Amigos guide for this last section were quite adequate though the road walking among the fast moving traffic was a bit harrowing. In this area there were plenty of signs for the GR14 Senda del Duero, and I suspect that it would have been better to have followed that route from Villaralbo to Zamora. The Amigos instructions take you along the ZA-P-1102 and the C-605. The last section in particular has a lot of traffic. The direction marker in Villaralbo for the GR14 suggested a route between the main roads and the Duero., and the Amigos maps show that there is such a road.
The Levante/Sureste uncertainty was not a problem, thanks to previous postings. The two trouble spots at Minaya and Medina del Campo have both been covered by others and in summary are:
Minaya: at the Hotel Antolin cross the asphalt highway and follow the yellow arrow that takes you on a gravel road at right angles to the asphalt highway. Disregard the yellow arrow on a blue background near the hotel as it will send you down the Sureste.
Medina del Campo: standing with your back to the church of Santiago and the careterra in front of you, cross the careterra (there is a yellow arrow on the pole) and walk straight on down the road. The road bears left after about 40 metres - you are now on your way. You will see the rail bridge in front of you.
Signposting to the farmhouse about 7 km after San Clemente (see Laurie's notes) has still not been fixed. If you have Laurie's notes it is pretty obvious what to do.
Sometimes marking disappears in towns or villages. The instructions in the Amigos guide are usually sufficient to find the way. Occasionally may need to ask someone for directions.
The Way
Mostly very flat, with a few glorious days in the mountains between Escalona and Avila. Some stages recommended in the Amigos guide are a bit long, but can usually be broken into shorter distances.
The initial few days on asphalt are hard on the feet. I got small blisters on both heels for the first time ever, which I put down to repetitious striding on a hard surface.
Some of the stages would be brutal in hot weather as there is no shade, no fountain or any village to offer relief. The going was hot even in early April.
A previous comment by Laurie that the weather gods have decreed good weather for this camino still applies; I had only half a day of rain. However, if there is bad weather I feel it would have quite a hampering effect. There would be some serious mud in the early stages, as I saw when some overenthusiastic crop watering drenched part of the way. Also, some of the bogs in the mountains could be a problem.
Accommodation
Used a mixture of hostals/casa rurals and albergues, either taken from Laurie's post or from the recommended lists in the Amigos Guide. Hostal accommodation was generally very good and costs were mostly in the €15 to €25 range. Albergues ranged from quite basic to excellent, (Gotterrandura). Most albergues are not staffed and key collection, from a variety of sources, is required.
Accommodation is generally freely available, though be warned that both hostals in Escalona have closed and the only option now is the albergue in the local gymnasium - which is fine.
Pilgrim Numbers
Low, but increasing. From Valencia to Zamora I saw 1 group of five, 2 pairs and 5 singles, mostly fleetingly and in the evenings. It was extremely rare to see another pilgrim while walking.
Spanish
Very useful as virtually no English is spoken, anywhere. Particularly useful when collecting albergue keys, arranging albergue protocols and key drop offs as all have to be done in Spanish. My Spanish is only at the basic level but was invaluable. It's also a great conversation starter.
Enjoyable?
Absolutely. Wide open spaces. Castles. Famous cities. Some unheralded but very attractive towns. More castles. A chance to get way from it all. A physical challenge. And, as always the wonderfully hospitable Spanish people.
