Recommend guide book for CP

[MaidinBham]

Hi, originally was planning Euro Peace Walk in June, but have changed my mind and plan to go back to El Camino. I am now scrambling to collect all info, plan to leave April for Camino Portugues and need recommendation for guide book. Finding it difficult to piece together wealth of info on these forums. I printed out some maps, written in Portuguese and the town names do not correlate with what I am seeing on forum. Thank you all. Buen Camino

Janice

 

[Camembert]

John Brierley 's guide Camino Portugues. Take care you get the 2016 issue. You can order it here on the forum at Ivar's shop. It is in english.

Peregrina2000 wrote a handy script about the caminho Portugues . You can download it here on the forum for free. In english too.

 

[Waka]

There is a wealth of information in the resources section of the forum, and with the Brierley guide book you'll be fine.
I've not it myself but I ave all the info and it's on my todo list of camino's.

 

[MaidinBham]

Thank you. I have ordered Brierley guide from forum shop - on sale AND free passport. I will use in combo with forum resources and plan itinerary for ~ 20 km stages. So excited my next Camino has begun!
Janice

 

[Camembert]

Thank you. I have ordered Brierley guide from forum shop - on sale AND free passport. I will use in combo with forum resources and plan itinerary for ~ 20 km stages. So excited my next Camino has begun!
Janice

Where do you start ? Lisbon or Porto ?
We walked both in two different years and allways did not walk more than 20 kms a day.

 

[MaidinBham]

Where do you start ? Lisbon or Porto ?
We walked both in two different years and allways did not walk more than 20 kms a day.

I will walk Lisbon to SdC. Seems as though there are many different routes especially from Lisbon to Porto. Trying to decide whether to do coast or central from Lisbon to Porto. Think I will do coast starting in Porto?

 

[Camembert]

I will walk Lisbon to SdC. Seems as though there are many different routes especially from Lisbon to Porto. Trying to decide whether to do coast or central from Lisbon to Porto. Think I will do coast starting in Porto?

Okay. At this time I do research to the coastal part from Lisbon.
You will find excellent information on the subforum caminho do Mar here.
You can start in Cascais or Estoril ,west of Lisbon and walk either to Nazaré at the coast or Fátima more inland . On this part of the caminho are no albergues but only hostals and hotels.
I did not researched further than Nazaré and Fatima because this year we will not go on to Santiago but stay in Portugal. I should say, walk to Fatima and connect from there by bus to Tomar with its world heritage Templars covent -not to be missed !-and hit the central Portuguese caminho from there. From Tomar allmost every stage is around 20 kms to your next place to sleep.
Alvaiazère, Ansiāo,Cernache ,Coimbra-stay there an extra day if you can and visit the famous university with the medieval library and attend a fado rehearsal at 17h00 opposite the cathedral with a glass of portwine .
Further to Mealhada where just past the village is albergue Hilario's in Sernadelo .they serve a local and famous porc dish !
Next place is Águeda, Albergaría a Velha- just outside past the village is the sanctuary Casa Diocesana where you can sleep and nuns treat you well with a diner and breakfast for a few euros per person.
From there to Oliveira de Azameís and Sāo Joā da Madeira .
Your next stage to Porto will be a longer one but you could walk to Grijo and from there to Porto or take public transport from there to Porto.
From Porto all stages are around 20 kms except the coastal detour to Vila do Conde and the last one from Padrón to Santiago.
To Vila do Conde you could walk to Matosinhos first and return back to Porto by metro or bus #500 or take the metro to there -stop Mercado- and start your second part of the Portuguese caminho there.I posted an alternative to Matosinhos at the other bank of the river and take the pedestrian ferry nearby the ocean.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/cathedral-to-matosinhos.38537/#post-380805

Do not forget to stay at casa da Fernanda between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima.give Fernanda a call on beforehand because specially in The summer months. It can be busy.
+351 914 589 521.
Maybe you see us there because my wife and I will be hospitaleiro at Fernanda's end of june before we return home after our camping and walking journey through Portugal.
Bom caminho

 

[amsimoes]

After Fatima there are two ways to get to the central path, by Tomar or Ansião.
I recommend you go to Tomar for the castle and convent are worth a visit.

Lisboa to Fatima: http://www.cnc.pt/artigo/3126
Fatima to Tomar or Ansião: http://caminho.com.pt/mapas.html
Fatima to Tomar: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=z6QSjS96a2_w.k2HB9F9TMB74

If you have face, see the viedeo:

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=978467502171499

The recently deceased writer Umberto Eco, he considered Tomar as the navel of the world, because of its connection to the Knights Templar.

 

[TonyC]

I will walk Lisbon to SdC. Seems as though there are many different routes especially from Lisbon to Porto. Trying to decide whether to do coast or central from Lisbon to Porto. Think I will do coast starting in Porto?

Hi. We are, I think, in exactly the same situation as yourself. We completed the Camino Frances last year and have decided to "do" the Portuguese route this year. We are traveling down to Lisbon in early April to start our walk to SdC. Also we are unsure about which route will be best, at the moment we are thinking of doing the central route to Porto and then the coastal from Porto to SdC. However we are also considering the more coastal route from Lisbon.

There does seem to be a rather bewildering set of options to consider. Being retired, time isn't really a problem, and we don't really want to be walking more than 20km a day very often but know that we can do it if necessary. Perhaps we could compare notes!

All the best in your planning.

 

[Camembert]

Hi. We are, I think, in exactly the same situation as yourself. We completed the Camino Frances last year and have decided to "do" the Portuguese route this year. We are traveling down to Lisbon in early April to start our walk to SdC. Also we are unsure about which route will be best, at the moment we are thinking of doing the central route to Porto and then the coastal from Porto to SdC. However we are also considering the more coastal route from Lisbon.

There does seem to be a rather bewildering set of options to consider. Being retired, time isn't really a problem, and we don't really want to be walking more than 20km a day very often but know that we can do it if necessary. Perhaps we could compare notes!

All the best in your planning.

Anyway choosing the coastal from Lisbon you have to be creative because some distances are much more than 20 kms a day or sometimes significantly less !
Sometimes you have to travel back by public transport to your lodging you came from, sometimes you have to travel onwards to find a place to sleep and next day travel back to walk to the same place you slept.
Once arriving in Tomar or Ansiāo (if I were you I should choose Tomar -see my post above)the daily stages on the central route are more controlable concerning your 20km a day pace.
Look at the caminho do Mar coastal from Lisbon subforum and you will find a form with all stages to Nazaré or Fatima.
Also keep in mind that there are some serious ascendings and descendings .
The central route from Lisbon is fairly moderate.
The first serious ascending is at the arrival of the town of Santarèm . You walk through the river Tagus plains and at once is Santarèm situated on a hill .

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I ordered the NEW Brierly, not on sale, and it does differ from the previous edition. Thrn when I read great tips and ideas here ai write them down in the guidebook. Brierly now shows a few favourite albergues wina heart, and shows on its maps where there are water fountains, a welcomed addition in my eyes.

 

[MaidinBham]

Okay. At this time I do research to the coastal part from Lisbon.
You will find excellent information on the subforum caminho do Mar here.
You can start in Cascais or Estoril ,west of Lisbon and walk either to Nazaré at the coast or Fátima more inland . On this part of the caminho are no albergues but only hostals and hotels.
I did not researched further than Nazaré and Fatima because this year we will not go on to Santiago but stay in Portugal. I should say, walk to Fatima and connect from there by bus to Tomar with its world heritage Templars covent -not to be missed !-and hit the central Portuguese caminho from there. From Tomar allmost every stage is around 20 kms to your next place to sleep.
Alvaiazère, Ansiāo,Cernache ,Coimbra-stay there an extra day if you can and visit the famous university with the medieval library and attend a fado rehearsal at 17h00 opposite the cathedral with a glass of portwine .
Further to Mealhada where just past the village is albergue Hilario's in Sernadelo .they serve a local and famous porc dish !
Next place is Águeda, Albergaría a Velha- just outside past the village is the sanctuary Casa Diocesana where you can sleep and nuns treat you well with a diner and breakfast for a few euros per person.
From there to Oliveira de Azameís and Sāo Joā da Madeira .
Your next stage to Porto will be a longer one but you could walk to Grijo and from there to Porto or take public transport from there to Porto.
From Porto all stages are around 20 kms except the coastal detour to Vila do Conde and the last one from Padrón to Santiago.
To Vila do Conde you could walk to Matosinhos first and return back to Porto by metro or bus #500 or take the metro to there -stop Mercado- and start your second part of the Portuguese caminho there.I posted an alternative to Matosinhos at the other bank of the river and take the pedestrian ferry nearby the ocean.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/cathedral-to-matosinhos.38537/#post-380805

Do not forget to stay at casa da Fernanda between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima.give Fernanda a call on beforehand because specially in The summer months. It can be busy.
+351 914 589 521.
Maybe you see us there because my wife and I will be hospitaleiro at Fernanda's end of june before we return home after our camping and walking journey through Portugal.
Bom caminho

Thank you so much for taking the time to assist my Camino. Such a wealth of info, and I will copy and paste. I am sure my planning will come together, and having Brierley's guide and maps will help (they are on the way - thank you Ivar!)
I have just booked my flight - 35 days, and hope this is enough time to visit all the wonderful places I am hearing about. Casa Fernanda is on my list, but return May 31st, so our paths will not cross.
Bom Caminho!

Janice

 

[MaidinBham]

@
amsimoes

Thanks for the links. It looks like Tomar is side trip and I would need to backtrack to main Camino?

Janice

 

[MaidinBham]

Hi. We are, I think, in exactly the same situation as yourself. We completed the Camino Frances last year and have decided to "do" the Portuguese route this year. We are traveling down to Lisbon in early April to start our walk to SdC. Also we are unsure about which route will be best, at the moment we are thinking of doing the central route to Porto and then the coastal from Porto to SdC. However we are also considering the more coastal route from Lisbon.

There does seem to be a rather bewildering set of options to consider. Being retired, time isn't really a problem, and we don't really want to be walking more than 20km a day very often but know that we can do it if necessary. Perhaps we could compare notes!

All the best in your planning.

Hi TonyC, yes it does seem more complicated than CF. I am hoping when I receive guide book things will become clearer. Honestly, for my first Camino I didn't plan very much, I had Brierley guide but winged it a lot of time, and didn't follow his stages. And I had a wonderful experience overall. I do think though that 20km on CF, was ACTUALLY 30km! Many stages it felt as though I had walked a lot further than stated on maps, guides, and signpost's.
You start ahead of me I plan to arrive end of April, best of luck and Buen Camino!

Janice

 

[Camembert]

Tomar is not really a side track but let say that it is moreless on the same line as Fatima but more eastwards.
The first time we were in Tomar, we missed the convent by coincidence so the next year, walking another camino in a different part of Spain ,after finishing in Santiago, we travelled to Tomar to visit the Templars castle and convent.

Another world heritage site is the Bom Jesus do Monte church in Braga, a side step (by bus) of 20 kms more eastwards from Barcelos.
We took an extra day to visit the medieval town of Braga and since then every year we return back to visit it .the other day in january we were there again and next visit will be when we arrive at Fernanda's where it is close by too .

So you need some more time or think about skipping one or two less interesting stages !?
If I should do the central route again I should skip Lisbon to Azambuja and start there or in Santarèm .
boa sorte e bom caminho

 

[peregrina2000]

@
amsimoes

Thanks for the links. It looks like Tomar is side trip and I would need to backtrack to main Camino?

Janice

Hi, Janice,
Tomar is right on the "main camino", but I think Aurelio was describing the route you would take if you took a detour to Fátima. Fátima is not on the Caminho and there are lots of threads describing how you could get there and back to the Caminho, either walking or by bus for a visit. Are you planning to go to Fátima?

Tomar's monastery up on the hill, the Convento do Cristo, is an absolute must visit. It's really wonderful. Bom caminho, Laurie

(p.s. I'm assuming you saw the document in Resources on walking shorter stages from Lisbon, because it is not as hard as it may seem!).

 

[MaidinBham]

Hi, Janice,
Tomar is right on the "main camino", but I think Aurelio was describing the route you would take if you took a detour to Fátima. Fátima is not on the Caminho and there are lots of threads describing how you could get there and back to the Caminho, either walking or by bus for a visit. Are you planning to go to Fátima?

Tomar's monastery up on the hill, the Convento do Cristo, is an absolute must visit. It's really wonderful. Bom caminho, Laurie

(p.s. I'm assuming you saw the document in Resources on walking shorter stages from Lisbon, because it is not as hard as it may seem!).

Hi Laurie!
I will definitely visit Tomar - do they have beds at Convento do Cristo? I am at the very beginning stage of planning itinerary, and awaiting guide book to help me sort things out. Undecided about Fatima, but based on my first Camino I will lean more toward pilgrim than tourist.
I just booked my flight! and will have 35 days. On my CF I think I averaged ~ 15 miles a day, but I think I am reading there is lot more tarmac on CP? I may skip first 50km and start in Azambuja - what do you think - will I skip a lot of tarmac? I may stay in Lisbon 2 nights to recover from jet-lag and explore Lisbon and then start my Camino.
Thanks Laurie, Bom Caminho
Janice

 

[marbuck]

Hi Laurie!
I will definitely visit Tomar - do they have beds at Convento do Cristo? I am at the very beginning stage of planning itinerary, and awaiting guide book to help me sort things out. Undecided about Fatima, but based on my first Camino I will lean more toward pilgrim than tourist.
I just booked my flight! and will have 35 days. On my CF I think I averaged ~ 15 miles a day, but I think I am reading there is lot more tarmac on CP? I may skip first 50km and start in Azambuja - what do you think - will I skip a lot of tarmac? I may stay in Lisbon 2 nights to recover from jet-lag and explore Lisbon and then start my Camino.
Thanks Laurie, Bom Caminho
Janice

No accommodation at Convento do Cristo. Lots of beds, dorm or hotel down in the town. Tomar is a wonderful place to visit. Make sure you have a look at the old Jewish Synagogue in the old part of town.

 

[Camembert]

No accommodation at Convento do Cristo. Lots of beds, dorm or hotel down in the town. Tomar is a wonderful place to visit. Make sure you have a look at the old Jewish Synagogue in the old part of town.

In Tomar we slept at the Bombeiros Volontarios , the volontairy firebrigade. A big hall with matrasses on the floor, Hot showers. A once in a life experience. Opposite the firestation is a restaurant for your breakfast , called in Portuguese "pequeno almoço or café da manha."
In Portugal at some places at the Lisbon to Porto leg you can sleep at the Bombeiros Volontarios. .I never heard about it on the leg from Port to Valença do Minho. In Spain they do not offer this kind of lodging.

In the center of Tomar when you stand faced to the church and you see the convento do Cristo above it , at your right at the street rua Serpa Pinto next to the church is a medieval restaurant with medieval dishes and candlelight. Very nice.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Hi, originally was planning Euro Peace Walk in June, but have changed my mind and plan to go back to El Camino. I am now scrambling to collect all info, plan to leave April for Camino Portugues and need recommendation for guide book. Finding it difficult to piece together wealth of info on these forums. I printed out some maps, written in Portuguese and the town names do not correlate with what I am seeing on forum. Thank you all. Buen Camino

Janice

brierly is probably your best bet, it appears to be accurate and i assume he will have updated it for 2016

buen camino

 

[Joanna McIntyre]

Hi Janice - I am starting the Camino Portuguese on 19th April from Santarem having decided to skip the first part from Lisbon. I will be travelling with Catherine who I met last year whilst walking the Camino Frances. I will look out for you on the way. Best of luck. Jo

 

[Camembert]

Hi Janice - I am starting the Camino Portuguese on 19th April from Santarem having decided to skip the first part from Lisbon. I will be travelling with Catherine who I met last year whilst walking the Camino Frances. I will look out for you on the way. Best of luck. Jo

Advice. Stay and start in the Santarèm Hostal . Mario is an excellent host .
It is in the middle of the center close by the tourist office. Make your reservation on beforehand. It can be busy. Next one is pensão Solo Duro in Golegã. Great place to be. You find the telnumber in Brierleys guide

 

[Joanna McIntyre]

Funnily enough I have booked there for the night before we start the walk -many thanks. I am so looking forward now to this walk - this year it will be much more "recreational than medicinal". Helpful tips - thanks

 

[MaidinBham]

Hi Janice - I am starting the Camino Portuguese on 19th April from Santarem having decided to skip the first part from Lisbon. I will be travelling with Catherine who I met last year whilst walking the Camino Frances. I will look out for you on the way. Best of luck. Jo

Hi Jo, and all the best to you also.
Perhaps we shall meet up but I suspect you will be in Porto, while I will be in beginning stages.
Bom Caminho,
Janice

 

[MaidinBham]

Have received Brierley guide for CP. Also credencial - glad this was included. Just a few pointers/FYI

It weighs 214 gm (lighter than my Brierley CF guide)
Published 2016, Edition 7
As noted by Brierley "Notes to the 7th edidtion" -
Biggest improvement is addition of Coastal route from Porto
Additional pilgrim hostels Lisbon to Porto
Options to avoid busy road network around Porto
He states - should be undertaken by seasoned pilgrims with ability to speak Portuguese. Hope this part is not true. I am hoping to squeak by on English and Spanish, and only one Camino under my belt, and still have not started my training walks! Also claims about 1/3rd only, is natural pathways. My shins are not going to like all that tarmac!. I think I read on forum that more natural pathways are opening up, so I will see.
Thanks to all,

Janice

 

[Camembert]

Have received Brierley guide for CP. Also credencial - glad this was included. Just a few pointers/FYI

It weighs 214 gm (lighter than my Brierley CF guide)
Published 2016, Edition 7
As noted by Brierley "Notes to the 7th edidtion" -
Biggest improvement is addition of Coastal route from Porto
Additional pilgrim hostels Lisbon to Porto
Options to avoid busy road network around Porto
He states - should be undertaken by seasoned pilgrims with ability to speak Portuguese. Hope this part is not true. I am hoping to squeak by on English and Spanish, and only one Camino under my belt, and still have not started my training walks! Also claims about 1/3rd only, is natural pathways. My shins are not going to like all that tarmac!. I think I read on forum that more natural pathways are opening up, so I will see.
Thanks to all,

Janice

There is no need to speak Portuguese- most youngsters speak english-lots of people do understand Spanish although they will answer you in Portuguese. Non verbal communication also works . Spanish and Portuguese language are related and till somewhere in the 1200th century it was one language.
Since one and a half year I study Portuguese and with my 5 year study Castillean Spanish and working experience in Barcelona imho it helps a lot to speak ,write and understand Portuguese.
Once arriving in Spanish Galicia you will notice that the language spoken by the locals sounds and in writing looks more Portuguese than Castillean Spanish .

There is a lot of roadwalking that is true-it is the caminho Português !
I can not compare it with the CF because I have never walked that camino.

 

[Joanna McIntyre]

Thanks for all your tips and recommendations Albertinho.

 

[MaidinBham]

Yes thank you Albertino - very gracious and kind. Good to know the similarities, and I will write down some useful phrases in Portuguese.

 

[partyartie]

I walked Camino Portuguese coastal from Lisboa to Santiago last May. From Lisboa to Porto it was not very nice, except locals. Wonderful and
extremely helpful people. But the road, I`ll never go back. Not very many places to stay overnight. Muddy paths or asphalt. The road from Porto to Santiago
is so different. I loved it. I love Portugal. I`m going back!

I`m planning to walk next May the seashore path from Porto to Santiago (plus a week or two somewhere else, don`t know yet).
Has anyone of you done that? I´m trying to stay as close to the sea as possible all the way. Could you share your experiences?
I have not found any books about that.

Yes, the books I have used. Last year I had Laura Perazzoli`s and Dave Whitson`s The Northern Caminos. It worked for me all the way from
Irun to Santiago perfectly. So simple (like me) and easy to follow. This year I had Brierly`s Camino Portuguese which was..... well, different.
On the way I was not alone with my opinion.