It has taken me longer than expected to get back to you guys!
First of all thanks all for your get well wishes (Lovingkindness, Grilly, Melanie, Janet and Skilsaw)! Even if we do not know each other personally, I feel a kindredship to all of you !
Anna-Marie: how are you doing now that you have been back for a while. I haven't read your blog since cooped up in the hospital so need to check it out. MANY THANKS for you list of aubergues. I had my walking companion pull it out of the outside back pocket of my backpack on a daily basis!
Laurie: your knowledge and wealth of experience was of great assistance. I read through your posts prior to leaving. What I didn't do is write down internet locations...indeed only e-mailed 2x since aubergues lacked internet.
Ria: waar ben je nu??? Ik dacht dat je de 2e helft van de Via de la Plata wou doen...wat zie ik hier, dat je de Levante aan het lopen bent?!?! Wanneer ben je uiteindelijke in Zamora aangekomen (waarschijnlijk toen ik in het ziekenhuis lag!)?
I hope that this information doesn't arrive too late for Grilly or others leaving for the VdlP.
My post is VERY LONG and so will post the general information/impressions now and details about the various stages within the next day or two (before Tuesday as that is D-Day - or rather O-day=Operation
Reflections on a summer VdlP
Although my Camino ended in an extremely bizarre and quite unfortunate manner, this does not detract from a great 3 weeks out on the VdlP.
I will start at the beginning:
Flew into Sevilla from Amsterdam and once touched ground the heat of Sevilla was omnipresent. An airport bus takes you downtown. Can’t remember the exact times but it runs 2x per hour.
As the VdlP officially starts at the Cathedral this would be my first stop. Was surprised to see Starbucks on almost every corner and must admit that I too ducked in to have a lovely ice coffee.
I was anxious to find the first fleche and/or Camino de Santigo tile and so did not visit the Cathedral at that time (big mistake as it was closed by 4 p.m., cost: E8.00).
The Camino trail out of the city is fairly easy to following. I did it twice from the cathedral and found about 5 more flechas the second time around! It leads you across the rĂo Guadalquirvir toTriana which was originally a Gitano barrio and is famous for its tiles. I had booked a night at the Backpackers Hostel Triana which was just perfect. I had a whole room of 3 bunk-beds to myself. It is clean, has airco, free internet and breakfast for E12. Credenciales can be purchased for E2. Found out later that day that G. the Italian that would be my walking buddy for the next 3 weeks was also staying there.
First observation: Some may fry on the VdlP in the summer, I just got slightly toasted haha! Heat at 8 p.m. was blasting, temperatures do not drop in the evening in AndalucĂa and parts of Extremadura. As one local said. It is “extrema y “dura”!
Second: There is no one in the streets in the afternoon (unless of course you are in larger cities as Mérida, Zafra, etc. – not a soul!
Third: Due to the extreme condtions in Andalucia, most stores are closed in the afternoon. Be careful and plan ahead so you don’t get caught without supplies. There is usually an apothecary/farmacy open.
Fourth: take a 2 L hydration pack and fill with either water or a combination of water and Aquarius. My buddy bought 1 ½ L bottles. I preferred water and 1-2 cans of Aquarius. Fill your pack and put it and bottles in the fridge the night before.
. It is so bizarre but in the 3 weeks that I was walking I did not once have to pee along the road. I consumed an average of 2-3 L during the walk and continued to drink afterwards. THIS IS A MUST. Even at that my urine was dark orange most of the time.
Fifth: watch out for signs of exhaustion. Regulate blood sugar and exertion. Generally speaking it is beter to eat often but small amounts. It took me a few days to adjust. I am not a big eater and in intense heat I loose my appetite. That first week and a half I lived on gazpacho or ensalada mixta for lunch. I had great difficulty eating breakfast and often only had ½ piece of bread and tea. As a result on 2 occasions I felt faint and had to stop, rest and slowly eat some dried fruit. After that my body adjusted and on rest stops I ate (dried)fruit.
Sixth: having some Spanish knowledge is not only helpful but will enhance your Camino experience. The majority of the pelegrinos/bicigrinos on the VdlP in July were Spanish. Given the very small group of people at any one time in an aubergue, it might get lonely not being able to communicate with others. Of course hands of feet work but this might get tiring after a while.
Seventh: distance beween towns, especially in the beginning, is large- unlike on the Camino Francés. You often have to walk 16-20 km before coming across a bar/restaurant and even if you hit a town, there is no guarantee that there is a café! This is especially true during the first week.
On a positive note: very helpful, friendly people. I lost my hat on my way to Guillena and I received lots of assistance. When I asked the farmacist where I should go she said “espera” , went in back and came back with a broad-rimmed beach hat! I couldn’t imagine wearing it but also did not want to appear unappreciative so said thanks. A woman had been waiting in line and said that she would take to me a store she thought would be open. So I hopped in and indeed found one of those stores that I would so often see during my Camino. The store carried everything and it was packed from the floor to the ceiling: bras next to toothbrushes and hammers next to candy. What a trip! For E3.50 I got a cap which would serve me well.
Daily routine was to walk (started at around 6 or if café was open first ate breakfast then set off), find aubergue, shower, wash clothes (or after lunch if late), lunch, siesta, visit town, drink with a snack then off to bed. My walking buddy and I found that having a good, sit down lunch was sufficient and that a bier, shandy or the like and olives were sufficient until the next morning. We usually took (dried) fruit for along the way.
The first 2 stages are short. This is a good thing as this gives your body time to acclimate to the heat. I like hot weather but this is something that I had never experienced before (summers in Florida – yes, Arizona in the summer- yes). It is not just because the heat was so intense but also because temps do not subside late afternoon or evening at least in AndalucĂa and Extremadura.
Meals: breakfast was pan tostada and a cafĂ© or a cup of tea E2,50. Lunch was at around 3 (much later than 4 you will not get served). This was in a restaurant (in Spain a separate room so not in the cafĂ© ). Although they were not called a Pilgrim’s menu everywhere you could find a menu del dĂa without a problem. First 2 weeks I usually had a salad or gazpacho for around E5.
Sorry so long but didn't want to leave out anything!
Buen Camino to all!!!
Cheers,
LT
First of all thanks all for your get well wishes (Lovingkindness, Grilly, Melanie, Janet and Skilsaw)! Even if we do not know each other personally, I feel a kindredship to all of you !
Anna-Marie: how are you doing now that you have been back for a while. I haven't read your blog since cooped up in the hospital so need to check it out. MANY THANKS for you list of aubergues. I had my walking companion pull it out of the outside back pocket of my backpack on a daily basis!
Laurie: your knowledge and wealth of experience was of great assistance. I read through your posts prior to leaving. What I didn't do is write down internet locations...indeed only e-mailed 2x since aubergues lacked internet.
Ria: waar ben je nu??? Ik dacht dat je de 2e helft van de Via de la Plata wou doen...wat zie ik hier, dat je de Levante aan het lopen bent?!?! Wanneer ben je uiteindelijke in Zamora aangekomen (waarschijnlijk toen ik in het ziekenhuis lag!)?
I hope that this information doesn't arrive too late for Grilly or others leaving for the VdlP.
My post is VERY LONG and so will post the general information/impressions now and details about the various stages within the next day or two (before Tuesday as that is D-Day - or rather O-day=Operation
Reflections on a summer VdlP
Although my Camino ended in an extremely bizarre and quite unfortunate manner, this does not detract from a great 3 weeks out on the VdlP.
I will start at the beginning:
Flew into Sevilla from Amsterdam and once touched ground the heat of Sevilla was omnipresent. An airport bus takes you downtown. Can’t remember the exact times but it runs 2x per hour.
As the VdlP officially starts at the Cathedral this would be my first stop. Was surprised to see Starbucks on almost every corner and must admit that I too ducked in to have a lovely ice coffee.
I was anxious to find the first fleche and/or Camino de Santigo tile and so did not visit the Cathedral at that time (big mistake as it was closed by 4 p.m., cost: E8.00).
The Camino trail out of the city is fairly easy to following. I did it twice from the cathedral and found about 5 more flechas the second time around! It leads you across the rĂo Guadalquirvir toTriana which was originally a Gitano barrio and is famous for its tiles. I had booked a night at the Backpackers Hostel Triana which was just perfect. I had a whole room of 3 bunk-beds to myself. It is clean, has airco, free internet and breakfast for E12. Credenciales can be purchased for E2. Found out later that day that G. the Italian that would be my walking buddy for the next 3 weeks was also staying there.
First observation: Some may fry on the VdlP in the summer, I just got slightly toasted haha! Heat at 8 p.m. was blasting, temperatures do not drop in the evening in AndalucĂa and parts of Extremadura. As one local said. It is “extrema y “dura”!
Second: There is no one in the streets in the afternoon (unless of course you are in larger cities as Mérida, Zafra, etc. – not a soul!
Third: Due to the extreme condtions in Andalucia, most stores are closed in the afternoon. Be careful and plan ahead so you don’t get caught without supplies. There is usually an apothecary/farmacy open.
Fourth: take a 2 L hydration pack and fill with either water or a combination of water and Aquarius. My buddy bought 1 ½ L bottles. I preferred water and 1-2 cans of Aquarius. Fill your pack and put it and bottles in the fridge the night before.
. It is so bizarre but in the 3 weeks that I was walking I did not once have to pee along the road. I consumed an average of 2-3 L during the walk and continued to drink afterwards. THIS IS A MUST. Even at that my urine was dark orange most of the time.
Fifth: watch out for signs of exhaustion. Regulate blood sugar and exertion. Generally speaking it is beter to eat often but small amounts. It took me a few days to adjust. I am not a big eater and in intense heat I loose my appetite. That first week and a half I lived on gazpacho or ensalada mixta for lunch. I had great difficulty eating breakfast and often only had ½ piece of bread and tea. As a result on 2 occasions I felt faint and had to stop, rest and slowly eat some dried fruit. After that my body adjusted and on rest stops I ate (dried)fruit.
Sixth: having some Spanish knowledge is not only helpful but will enhance your Camino experience. The majority of the pelegrinos/bicigrinos on the VdlP in July were Spanish. Given the very small group of people at any one time in an aubergue, it might get lonely not being able to communicate with others. Of course hands of feet work but this might get tiring after a while.
Seventh: distance beween towns, especially in the beginning, is large- unlike on the Camino Francés. You often have to walk 16-20 km before coming across a bar/restaurant and even if you hit a town, there is no guarantee that there is a café! This is especially true during the first week.
On a positive note: very helpful, friendly people. I lost my hat on my way to Guillena and I received lots of assistance. When I asked the farmacist where I should go she said “espera” , went in back and came back with a broad-rimmed beach hat! I couldn’t imagine wearing it but also did not want to appear unappreciative so said thanks. A woman had been waiting in line and said that she would take to me a store she thought would be open. So I hopped in and indeed found one of those stores that I would so often see during my Camino. The store carried everything and it was packed from the floor to the ceiling: bras next to toothbrushes and hammers next to candy. What a trip! For E3.50 I got a cap which would serve me well.
Daily routine was to walk (started at around 6 or if café was open first ate breakfast then set off), find aubergue, shower, wash clothes (or after lunch if late), lunch, siesta, visit town, drink with a snack then off to bed. My walking buddy and I found that having a good, sit down lunch was sufficient and that a bier, shandy or the like and olives were sufficient until the next morning. We usually took (dried) fruit for along the way.
The first 2 stages are short. This is a good thing as this gives your body time to acclimate to the heat. I like hot weather but this is something that I had never experienced before (summers in Florida – yes, Arizona in the summer- yes). It is not just because the heat was so intense but also because temps do not subside late afternoon or evening at least in AndalucĂa and Extremadura.
Meals: breakfast was pan tostada and a cafĂ© or a cup of tea E2,50. Lunch was at around 3 (much later than 4 you will not get served). This was in a restaurant (in Spain a separate room so not in the cafĂ© ). Although they were not called a Pilgrim’s menu everywhere you could find a menu del dĂa without a problem. First 2 weeks I usually had a salad or gazpacho for around E5.
Sorry so long but didn't want to leave out anything!
Buen Camino to all!!!
Cheers,
LT
