Reflections on the Camino francés

[domigee]

Someone asked in one thread 'tell me what it is like' to a specific forum member...So ignore me if I step in out of the blue and you don't even know me....

I just want to share my experience if it helps others at all...

Third camino francés this Summer: mid July to mid August.

I had walked that same Camino 2 years running (2012/2013). I walked the VdlP in 2015 with my husband whilst my 'walking mate' was on the French Camino. Having read the forum, I was anxious and I asked 'what is it like? Very busy?. The answer was 'I've been walking on my own ...'

Now it happens that I trust his judgement, having walked MANY kms with him.
So I signed up for another Camino francés this year. And it was indeed wonderful.

If I had been looking for lots of pilgrim's company, I would have been disappointed.
Most days, there was NO-ONE. To me, it was bliss, for others who seek company, not
so much.

When people say on here 'oh it is bedlam from May to October' or whatever.... It simply isn't true.

I stayed in albergues that were empty, I talked to pilgrims who also had the albergue to themselves...

Hostals when I booked them... we were the only two in them.

So people, when talking about 'peak times', just don't include the Summer months. Actually, do, so I can enjoy (hopefully) a few more blissful Caminos .
Ultreia!

Just one thing: I was sometimes asked for 4 euros for breakfast (once for 7 euros!). It shocked me, as I now what the prices are in Spain.... In a very 'posh' bar in Alicante, or in Santander, breakfast is TWO euros. So yes, some places are in to make money and frankly, if you come from London, it still seems like good value. Not so if you come from other places.

What is YOUR experience of it?

 

[Mark Lee]

I was walking the CF the same time you were (mid July-mid August) this past summer.
Ditto on your observations and experience. Stayed in a lot of albergues that had a lot of empty bed space. Even on the last 100 km, not so bad for most of it. Same for the first few days out of SJPdP. The last stretch into Roncesvalles on the Napoleon I was alone for most of it and the albergue at Roncesvalles was far from filled to capacity. Walked a lot of stretches alone on the CF, or with very few fellow pilgrims.
Santiago was quite crowded though, but one must remember that the crowds there are not just pilgrims. A lot of regular, non-pilgrim tourists go there. That's the one place I recommend to make reservations at if you know what day you are arriving there.
Yeah, came across a few expensive breakfasts, too. I mean the old toast, jam and coffee style breakfast. 4-7 euros seems a bit steep for that. Not unreasonable for a real breakfast (eggs, bacon etc), though.

 

[domigee]

Yes, I assumed the 7 euros was for a cooked breakfast. It wasn't.

 

[domigee]

A pity we didn't meet, @Mark Lee I think I was just one day ahead of you. And I didn't stay in Santiago but walked on, for the reasons you mentioned in another thread I think.
Maybe another time

 

[C clearly]

I have only walked in the early spring or late fall, so I am just conjecturing.

I don't think anyone is being untruthful about the general facts, although personal reactions to situations are totally subjective. Therefore, the only explanation for the divergent experiences (busy vs not) is that the crowds are localized. Others have pointed out that this can often be managed by letting the wave pass by. That might take a day or two. It is likely more effective to let them pass rather than jump ahead, because they will be trying to hurry to the front of the wave.

From Sarria, the crowds might be less avoidable, but that is where attitude becomes so important!

 

[OTH86]

What is YOUR experience of it?

I've walked in the Fall 3 times, and found it fairly peaceful and not so crowded as long as I avoided the stage cities & towns! Never stayed in Sarria, so wasn't amongst the folks starting there. Ran into more people as I got closer to Santiago, but still quiet enough. Will give an update in mid-Nov when I get back from the Frances again. Thanks for you perceptions this year!!

 

[BonitaHolland]

My experience is everywhere is full - I started Sep 3rd and now in Burgos on a rest day and it's a Sunday, and so many waves have passed me....I'm carrying my pack and doing about 12-18km per day. Two quotes

Pilgrim A : (rushing past as I watched some birds in a bush) ' I've lost some time so I'll say hello but won't stop to chat'
Me: Ok well if I find the time you lost I'll pick it up and bring it along .....someone might be able to use it....

Pilgrim B : I'm considering taking a rest day but wanted to stay ahead....

Me: ahead of what ..... I'm frightened!

 

[domigee]

My experience is everywhere is full - I started Sep 3rd and now in Burgos on a rest day and it's a Sunday, and so many waves have passed me....I'm carrying my pack and doing about 12-18km per day. Two quotes

Pilgrim A : (rushing past as I watched some birds in a bush) ' I've lost some time so I'll say hello but won't stop to chat'
Me: Ok well if I find the time you lost I'll pick it up and bring it along .....someone might be able to use it....

Pilgrim B : I'm considering taking a rest day but wanted to stay ahead....

Me: ahead of what ..... I'm frightened!

Quite! I am so sorry you are having this experience.... I don't know what
to say. Anyone?....

 

[Mark Lee]

A pity we didn't meet, @Mark Lee I think I was just one day ahead of you. And I didn't stay in Santiago but walked on, for the reasons you mentioned in another thread I think.
Maybe another time

I ended up staying in SDC three nights. Was so busy and booked up, so I stayed in three different places. Would get booted out at noonish and be homeless till I found another place after wandering around a bit, ha ha.
Far cry from earlier on the CF. I stayed in one albergue just past Leon where I was the only one in a room with about twelve beds in it. Before I went to sleep I tested all the mattresses till I found the firmest and put the cover on it and went to bed, ha ha. Such luxuries are rare in public albergues.

 

[domigee]

I didn't like the circus, which you mentioned. I felt the same reaching Jerusalem... It's just me

 

[PengoQuest]

What is YOUR experience of it?

I, too, was a summer pilgrim on the Camino Frances this year for my maiden camino (7 July to 9 August) and was likewise surprised by the absence of the predicted 'bedlam' out there. It was the cause of my only regret on that journey - pre-booking far too many hotels, just in case.

I had two albergues all to myself while a few others were shared with only a handful of people. And many of the hotels I stayed at also seemed less than half full. Granted, the crowds well and truly emerged after Sarria, but there were still plenty of available beds. Many of the premises owners/managers I spoke with were eagerly awaiting the September/October period when it really is bedlam.

That said, I enjoyed the whole experience so much, I'm heading back in November/December 2016 for another go, combining the CF (SJPDP-Santiago) with the Camino Portuguese (Porto-Santiago) and then Finisterre/Muxia. And the only place I intend booking for the entire trip is the very impressive looking Parador Hotel adjacent to the cathedral in Santiago for two nights (Christmas Day and Boxing Day)! Anyone for Christmas crackers in Obradoiro Square?

 

[long trails]

You should never have to pay over EUR 3 for breakfast in Spain.

 

[OTH86]

Have been on the Camino since 29 Sept and have found it a bit more populated than during my past Caminos. But have had no problems finding a bed - probably because I stop early - shortly after albergues open.
Have noticed a number of buses the past few days discharging quite a few people - smartly dressed, coiffed. But at least where I've stayed there's no competition for beds. Could change as of tomorrow (11/1) since today is last day for a lot of places.
Prices - some higher, some the same as my previous walks. But today I paid €3.50 for really good bacon & eggs!