• For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here.
    (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation)
  • ⚠️ Emergency contact in Spain - Dial 112 and AlertCops app. More on this here.

Search 69,459 Camino Questions

LIVE from the Camino Rejoining Camino Sanabres

Erik Anderson

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
GR11 Hondarribia - Cabo de Creus
3 X CF SJPP to Finisterre
Camino Mozarabe, VP and Sanabres
I'm rejoining the Camino at Puebla de Sanabria on Wednesday to walk to Santiago and would be interested in any information from peregrinos on the route or who have travelled this path recently. I read (online) that there is a number of diversions due to AVE work and there are warnings that the Way floods in several locations after rains. I think there may be some rain on the way. Any updates from recent travellers? Thank you.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I walked here on 19 September and while there were diversions due to the AVE work (which meant some road walking) there were no major problems. It's important though to keep an eye out for the diversion signs... And there was no flooding as there hadn't been any rain for a long time. Hope it goes well for you.
 
I returned recently from the Sanabrese .the main diversion is after Requejo and a long walk along the highway. The left hand turn onto the Camino is diverted but further on, you can get back on the way, off the main road (through a construction site) and miss having to go across the very high road bridge and the tunnel. I was happy to go that longer way round due to my anxiety on high bridges. It is the path I remember from 2013.
Otherwise no other problems just follow the arrows.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Looking back to the scarey bridge from the old way.
 
I walked here on 19 September and while there were diversions due to the AVE work (which meant some road walking) there were no major problems. It's important though to keep an eye out for the diversion signs... And there was no flooding as there hadn't been any rain for a long time. Hope it goes well for you.
Thank you for your kind reply. I'm looking forward to tomorrow.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Looking back to the scarey bridge from the old way.
Thank you for your reply and the information. The forecast is for a few days of heavy rains, hence my query about flooding, but I'm looking forward to an interesting hike.
 
@Erik Anderson I hope you do get rain because there are a few fires that otherwise may be a concern. See this thread for links to maps with live updates, particularly the last link posted by @Thomas1962 at post #35: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/fires-impacting-on-camino.51286/
Many thanks. The biggest fire appears to be north of Gudiña right now but the rains today should be helping. I shall update tomorrow evening as I progress from Requejo via Lubián towards there.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I finished the Puerta de Sanabria to Santiago section of the Mozarabe a week ago and have a few observations which I include below.

Puebla de Sanabria is very quiet at this time of year, many accommodations were closed or shutting up, and I found this in many other places on the route. The route between Puebla de Sanabria and Requejo is now very well marked with both flechas amarillas and granite signs, and following the river is much better than being on the N-525. Walking through the quarries and stone works was not a problem. The Municipal at Requejo was outstanding for facilities and standards of accommodation; the hostalero could not have been more helpful. The shop at Requejo was very well stocked with standard and local produce (cheeses, chorizo, country bread etc).

The route from Requejo is now completely changed due to the AVE tunnels and viaducts. Following the Way out of the village, a diversion sign appears at about 1km out and directs people uphill onto the N-525 which is then followed to the top of the hill and viaduct as it crosses beside the autovia. At this point I followed the route signs beneath the autovia, crossed the re-entrant and came out on top of the autovia before crossing into Padornelo. There were several confusing signs about Camino (not yellow arrows) directing people into the quarries on the left of the N-525, but having entered these I was direct out again by lorry drivers who said I had to stay on the N-525. At Padornelo, its possible to follow the Way down the hill but, approaching the church, I broke right and up onto the N-525 to get to the cafe which is open all year.

From Padornelo, the route to Aciberos is now officially diverted due to AVE works (but not blocked off), and signs advise a path which parallels the autovia on the left and then crosses beneath it through a new tunnel. Immediately after clearing the tunnel, the route now turns west and goes cross-country on good tracks to Lubián, meeting the original route as it crosses the river immediately prior to entering the village. You will have seen or heard of the fires in the area and the hillsides here were badly affected prior to last week's rains. The bottom line is that Aciberos is now diverted around and not included as part of Camino Sanabres. (The quiet of this area is affected by rock-drills, earth-moving equipment and blasting, all of which are heard throughout the work day.)

I was fortunate to have had lunch in Lubián because the next stretch to A Gudiña included no open facilities at all, not even for coffee. I could have diverted off the route at Vilavella, but sticking to the Way meant there was nothing to be had and I was glad of my own stock of food and water. There is a new granite and wooden bridge spanning the mountain stream a few Kms beyond Lubián and, despite the recent rains, it was no problem to get across. Much of the track was partly beneath water but the granite sets made for a relatively easy and dry passage here.

The Hostal Madrileña at A Gudiña was full, the Albergue was anecdotally still suffering from bed bugs, Pension Óscar no longer exists and I found a room by asking in a bar. With the lack of accommodations in this town I would recommend phoning ahead to the hostal to secure a bed.

From A Gudiña, the road climb was especially boring in cloud and rain with no views and it is not just a descent into Campobecerros, as indicated in some guides. (I'm sure the views from here on a normal day must be outstanding.) The AVE work has changed the route into the pueblo slightly because an access road for AVE work has been laid over what was the original Way on the edge of town. However, the disruption is minimal and past Campobecerros, the AVE work has not affected the route at all.

In Laza, Bar Picota provided excellent food and the local shops were well stocked. The route to Alberguería provided good views before the rain arrived and the final ascent was a challenge at the end of a long day. In Alberguería the donativo was excellent with good facilities and there was a good stock of food to buy for cooking. The hostalero hangs all the conchas with peoples names in the bar, and does good trade with the locals.

In rain and cloud, and leaving in the October darkness before dawn, the route out was very straight forward with a gradual climb for several kilometers, the most difficult thing being that some kind soul has reversed the Camino signs on the road at the top of the ascent, so they face the wrong way. In Vilar do Barrio several bars appear to have closed permanently and the one remaining open is not specifically peregrino friendly. It had no bread (except yesterday's - at 0900 in the morning!) and had no sello or wifi. It was warm and dry, however!

On the route to Xunqueira, the Amigos have set up a coffee shop on the Way in Bobadela Pinta and there were rooms/beds advertised in the cafe for Xunqueira itself. I should mention that the route down into Xunqueira passes over some volcanic rocks and the track could be a little difficult in the wet.

For Ourense, I definitely recommend the Grelo Hostel which has great facilities, particularly the washers and driers.

I took the shorter route to Casas Novas and I would perhaps give the bar there a miss as its a short hop to the next stop for better food. The 1 in 5 ascent out of Ourense after the railway tunnel is worth a mention, as is the hot soup at Casa Cesar, a few kilometres on.

The route into the twin villages of Castro-Dozón was very beautiful, especially the views to the north during the descent. The municipal is of a good standard, all apart from its cooking facilities which were rather minimal.

The Ponte Ulla private hostal was excellent and their washing/drying facilities were good value. The route out of the hostal is made easier by ignoring the camino signs by the petrol station and walking straight up the hill for a few hundred metres on the road to rejoin the Way and then take a left onto the original track.

I found the signage was without a problem from Ponte Ulla and from A Susana was easy. The route has changed a little when entering Santiago as a result of work on the AP-9 where widening and accommodating the railway has meant a small diversion and a more westerly path than before. Just off the start of the diversion (to the left) there is a Bar/Cafe (De Cruces) which provided welcome coffee and tostadas for breakfast. The diversion joins back up with the original route very quickly and signs are good. At the top of this diversion there is the first view of Santiago Cathedral.

The weather absolutely made this section of the Camino as it passes one of the highest points on the Way from Seville. The rain and cloud obscured the views for three days but, mercifully, helped extinguish the fires, evidence of which is all around on the Way after Puerta de Sanabria. When the rain cleared, the views over this part of Galicia were outstanding and, after Padornelo, it seemed like a continuous descent and easy hiking to Santiago. For anyone contemplating the route in Winter, I'd advise checking ahead to determine exactly which facilities are open because so many are not.
 
Great summary Erik. Thank you for the time and effort to write and post this for all to see. I recall many of the places you mention from my spring walk this year, and it seems to me you have accurately described the important points.
 
Thanks for posting Erik, brought back memories! :) Seems the route has changed quite a bit since a few years back, apart from the bedbugs in that albergue! :D
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
We had no problems with bb's in A Gudina albergue on 20th September. I was determined not to stay there but as I found everywhere else booked up I turned and plodded back there.
I was the only woman and had the female showers to myself with 5 guys. Windows were open and some tiny bugs flew in . No problems !
I took it as a lesson for me in not prejudging a place.
 
Erik, as a follow up, I was also wondering about bedbugs in A Gudina. I did not see any in the spring when I was there. It was not a spectacular place, but seemed clean to me, and the showers were nice and warm! Were there reports of a problem with bb this year?
 
Erik, as a follow up, I was also wondering about bedbugs in A Gudina. I did not see any in the spring when I was there. It was not a spectacular place, but seemed clean to me, and the showers were nice and warm! Were there reports of a problem with bb this year?

Hi,

I called at the hostal Madrilena, the first accommodation on the Way as you enter town, and got the report of bb from a peregrino there. Otherwise, I've had no experience of bb anywhere on the whole route from Almeria to Santiago.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
We also saw no bedbugs on the whole way from Sevilla to Santiago.
 
Last edited:
I finished the Puerta de Sanabria to Santiago section of the Mozarabe a week ago and have a few observations which I include below.

Thanks, that was a great post, Eric. Made me go back to my walks on the Sanabrés.

Tucked away in your report is the extremely sad news that the diversion from Aciberos is now complete. The last time I was there I remember seeing earth movers on my way down to the stream crossing, but the path was still open. It was one of the prettiest most peaceful green tunnel walks on any camino. I am sad that it had to be sacrificed for the train. You say the path is not blocked. Any idea whether it is still walkable?

When you say there was nothing on route in Villavella, I am wondering if that includes the 4 star spa, since it is just a couple minutes off the camino unlike the hotel up on the highway. When I walked we got a very good breakfast there at a reasonable price, and the staff told us all about special spa treatment prices for pilgrims. I remember vaguely that some have done this, any recent reports?

Is the restaurant in the Pensión Oscar in A Gudiña still open? I have had several long lunches there in a very crowded and animated restaurant behind the bar.

I take it you had a good experience at Casa César on the way out of Ourense. I was creeped out and would not have recommended it, maybe things have changed.

Is the albergue in Castro Dozón still a bit out of town in the municipal pool facility? The kitchen when I was there was very large, very well equipped. It was the "gang showers" that were a bit unusual, but they were sex-segregated. I still haven't made it to what is supposedly a gorgeous romanesque church (maybe monastery) a km or so off route. Has anyone visited it? http://www.arquivoltas.com/11-Galicia/01-Dozon1.htm

Does the entrance into Santiago still go over the RR tracks near the spot of the train crash? The homemade memorials were all still there last time I walked over and it was very poignant, adding another emotional layer to the entrance into Santiago.

Thanks for giving me the opportunity to walk down memory lane, it sure seems like the Sanabrés is another one of those caminos languishing in the shadows. Not sure why, since everyone who walks it raves about it!

Buen camino, Laurie
 
Eric ,really happy to see that you managed to complete your camino !!!! and many thanks again for all your posts all the way from Almeria ,,an invaluable source !!!
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Thanks, that was a great post, Eric. Made me go back to my walks on the Sanabrés.

Tucked away in your report is the extremely sad news that the diversion from Aciberos is now complete. The last time I was there I remember seeing earth movers on my way down to the stream crossing, but the path was still open. It was one of the prettiest most peaceful green tunnel walks on any camino. I am sad that it had to be sacrificed for the train. You say the path is not blocked. Any idea whether it is still walkable?

When you say there was nothing on route in Villavella, I am wondering if that includes the 4 star spa, since it is just a couple minutes off the camino unlike the hotel up on the highway. When I walked we got a very good breakfast there at a reasonable price, and the staff told us all about special spa treatment prices for pilgrims. I remember vaguely that some have done this, any recent reports?

Is the restaurant in the Pensión Oscar in A Gudiña still open? I have had several long lunches there in a very crowded and animated restaurant behind the bar.

I take it you had a good experience at Casa César on the way out of Ourense. I was creeped out and would not have recommended it, maybe things have changed.

Is the albergue in Castro Dozón still a bit out of town in the municipal pool facility? The kitchen when I was there was very large, very well equipped. It was the "gang showers" that were a bit unusual, but they were sex-segregated. I still haven't made it to what is supposedly a gorgeous romanesque church (maybe monastery) a km or so off route. Has anyone visited it? http://www.arquivoltas.com/11-Galicia/01-Dozon1.htm

Does the entrance into Santiago still go over the RR tracks near the spot of the train crash? The homemade memorials were all still there last time I walked over and it was very poignant, adding another emotional layer to the entrance into Santiago.

Thanks for giving me the opportunity to walk down memory lane, it sure seems like the Sanabrés is another one of those caminos languishing in the shadows. Not sure why, since everyone who walks it raves about it!

Buen camino, Laurie
Laurie, I can comment on a couple of your questions - based on my walk in April this year. The Castro Dozon albergue is still a up on the hill our of town a bit, just as you described. And the path did indeed cross near the site of the train wreck near Santiago. You are correct, it did not help my already emotional state of mind as I completed this Camino. I just talked to some folks who were on the Sanabres in September who also observed that only a few pilgrims were seen along this route. In the spring I was with only one other pilgrim in both A Gudina and Outiero, with just a few more than that in most towns.
 
Thanks, that was a great post, Eric. Made me go back to my walks on the Sanabrés.

Tucked away in your report is the extremely sad news that the diversion from Aciberos is now complete. The last time I was there I remember seeing earth movers on my way down to the stream crossing, but the path was still open. It was one of the prettiest most peaceful green tunnel walks on any camino. I am sad that it had to be sacrificed for the train. You say the path is not blocked. Any idea whether it is still walkable?

When you say there was nothing on route in Villavella, I am wondering if that includes the 4 star spa, since it is just a couple minutes off the camino unlike the hotel up on the highway. When I walked we got a very good breakfast there at a reasonable price, and the staff told us all about special spa treatment prices for pilgrims. I remember vaguely that some have done this, any recent reports?

Is the restaurant in the Pensión Oscar in A Gudiña still open? I have had several long lunches there in a very crowded and animated restaurant behind the bar.

I take it you had a good experience at Casa César on the way out of Ourense. I was creeped out and would not have recommended it, maybe things have changed.

Is the albergue in Castro Dozón still a bit out of town in the municipal pool facility? The kitchen when I was there was very large, very well equipped. It was the "gang showers" that were a bit unusual, but they were sex-segregated. I still haven't made it to what is supposedly a gorgeous romanesque church (maybe monastery) a km or so off route. Has anyone visited it? http://www.arquivoltas.com/11-Galicia/01-Dozon1.htm

Does the entrance into Santiago still go over the RR tracks near the spot of the train crash? The homemade memorials were all still there last time I walked over and it was very poignant, adding another emotional layer to the entrance into Santiago.

Thanks for giving me the opportunity to walk down memory lane, it sure seems like the Sanabrés is another one of those caminos languishing in the shadows. Not sure why, since everyone who walks it raves about it!

Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Laurie,

I assume that there is still a navigable route around Aciberos because I saw signs still in place and there are definitely roads still in use there. At worst, one would have to tread on tarmac and find an alternative to the old track in the woods and by the stream.

When I walked through Vilavela, I saw nothing and even the bar was permanently shut. I must have missed the spa in the cloud and rain!

I arrived in A Gudina and walked up and down with my App looking for Pension Oscar but to no avail. It could still be there but I couldn't find it and it was not as marked on my app (VdlP), on the south side of the main road (N525) almost opposite Rua Viana, the turn off for the Municipal. (Neither is it visible on Google maps or its street view.) Could it be what is now O Peregrino?

What creeped you out at Casa Cesar? I was grateful for the bowl of soup and fresh bread there as I'd been walking without breakfast that day. There had been a stall selling fresh calamari at the top of the steep hill out of Ourense but the boilers were just starting up and my stomach couldn't wait for another hour!

As the other reply says, the Municipal at Castro Dozon is on the way out of the villages, en route for Santo Domingo, and getting food means walking back into the village. (The route has changed a little here too, compared to my app, but the differences are minimal.)

I think the route into Santiago is now more remote from the site of the train crash but the small memorials can still be seen on the fencing there. The first view of the Cathedral was most impressive from the hill above the city, especially as there had been the most magnificent sunrise that day.

I, too, am amazed at the seemingly few peregrinos on this route, but is this not its attraction also? Apart from the A Gudina beds issue, the Way was extremely quiet (away from the rock drills) and very peaceful.

BC
 
Hi Laurie,

I assume that there is still a navigable route around Aciberos because I saw signs still in place and there are definitely roads still in use there. At worst, one would have to tread on tarmac and find an alternative to the old track in the woods and by the stream.

When I walked through Vilavela, I saw nothing and even the bar was permanently shut. I must have missed the spa in the cloud and rain!

I arrived in A Gudina and walked up and down with my App looking for Pension Oscar but to no avail. It could still be there but I couldn't find it and it was not as marked on my app (VdlP), on the south side of the main road (N525) almost opposite Rua Viana, the turn off for the Municipal. (Neither is it visible on Google maps or its street view.) Could it be what is now O Peregrino?

What creeped you out at Casa Cesar? I was grateful for the bowl of soup and fresh bread there as I'd been walking without breakfast that day. There had been a stall selling fresh calamari at the top of the steep hill out of Ourense but the boilers were just starting up and my stomach couldn't wait for another hour!

As the other reply says, the Municipal at Castro Dozon is on the way out of the villages, en route for Santo Domingo, and getting food means walking back into the village. (The route has changed a little here too, compared to my app, but the differences are minimal.)

I think the route into Santiago is now more remote from the site of the train crash but the small memorials can still be seen on the fencing there. The first view of the Cathedral was most impressive from the hill above the city, especially as there had been the most magnificent sunrise that day.

I, too, am amazed at the seemingly few peregrinos on this route, but is this not its attraction also? Apart from the A Gudina beds issue, the Way was extremely quiet (away from the rock drills) and very peaceful.

BC

Madrilena and Oscar(very near Madrilena)were both fully booked with construction employees when I arrived on 20th September. I walked and walked further along the main street but found no other accommodation. Exhausted, I plodded back to the Albergue which was good enough and no bedbugs.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Hi Laurie,

I assume that there is still a navigable route around Aciberos because I saw signs still in place and there are definitely roads still in use there. At worst, one would have to tread on tarmac and find an alternative to the old track in the woods and by the stream.

When I walked through Vilavela, I saw nothing and even the bar was permanently shut. I must have missed the spa in the cloud and rain!

I arrived in A Gudina and walked up and down with my App looking for Pension Oscar but to no avail. It could still be there but I couldn't find it and it was not as marked on my app (VdlP), on the south side of the main road (N525) almost opposite Rua Viana, the turn off for the Municipal. (Neither is it visible on Google maps or its street view.) Could it be what is now O Peregrino?

What creeped you out at Casa Cesar? I was grateful for the bowl of soup and fresh bread there as I'd been walking without breakfast that day. There had been a stall selling fresh calamari at the top of the steep hill out of Ourense but the boilers were just starting up and my stomach couldn't wait for another hour!

As the other reply says, the Municipal at Castro Dozon is on the way out of the villages, en route for Santo Domingo, and getting food means walking back into the village. (The route has changed a little here too, compared to my app, but the differences are minimal.)

I think the route into Santiago is now more remote from the site of the train crash but the small memorials can still be seen on the fencing there. The first view of the Cathedral was most impressive from the hill above the city, especially as there had been the most magnificent sunrise that day.

I, too, am amazed at the seemingly few peregrinos on this route, but is this not its attraction also? Apart from the A Gudina beds issue, the Way was extremely quiet (away from the rock drills) and very peaceful.

BC

Thanks for all the updates, Eric. I sent you a PM about Casa César because I don´t want to unfairly criticize him publicly. I want to say though that my reaction to him was NOT at all because of anything untoward or unwanted advances, etc. Just a bad vibe maybe.

The Spa Vilavella is on the main highway as it crosses right through or adjacent to the little old town. I know pilgrims who took a rest day there to use all the amenities, but I am not much of a spa person. I remember they had a great pilgrim price, though, if you want to relax.
http://www.hotelspavilavella.es/ohotel_ohotel.php

For us, it was a breakfast stop. They gave us a very ample breakfast for 4 or 5 euros and the staff was very nice to us, even though we were clearly not 4 star customers!

I vaguely remember O Peregrino in A Gudiña from my last time through, I think the Oscar was on the same street, before the O peregrino coming into town. If I remember, the Peregrino is closer to the albergue. It surprises me that it could be gone, it was really a bustling popular restaurant at the time, and I am virtually certain (though I slept in the albergue) that is was a pension too. I will go back and check my journals, etc to see if I can find anything.

And if I ever go back to the Sanabrés I will do my best to find that lovely green walk alongside the brook running close to Aciberos. Or maybe it is best to leave it in my memories, perfect and peaceful. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Madrilena and Oscar(very near Madrilena)were both fully booked with construction employees when I arrived on 20th September. I walked and walked further along the main street but found no other accommodation. Exhausted, I plodded back to the Albergue which was good enough and no bedbugs.
I'm a little surprised that I missed this Pension but it was dark and raining and the end of a very long day. I hope it still is there as it appears accommodations at A Gudina are at a premium anyway due to the needs of all the people working on the AVE projects in the area. I've not been on this site for a while but it would be good to have confirmation from anyone passing that the albergue is still fully fit for purpose.
 
I'm a little surprised that I missed this Pension but it was dark and raining and the end of a very long day. I hope it still is there as it appears accommodations at A Gudina are at a premium anyway due to the needs of all the people working on the AVE projects in the area. I've not been on this site for a while but it would be good to have confirmation from anyone passing that the albergue is still fully fit for purpose.
I was the only woman with five men, three of whom were my Camino buddies. Kitchen seemed ok as two were cooking there. I did think the place could do with a good clean though. Male hospitalero came at 7.30 to sign us in. Just an aside,one of my amigos said that the other two unknown men were not pilgrims.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-

Most read last week in this forum

Hello, First time posting but as Google hasn't been helpful I was hoping others here might be able to help with an odd query. I am considering the Via de la Plata from Seville via Sanabres as my...
I am posting daily blog style updates on Facebook that anyone can see and follow: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.8095032397178476&type=3 There are also video format stories visible on...
Hey folks. I started the Mozarabe from Almeria and took time out in Salamanca to do a 3 week Spanish course in USAL. The course was fine. 4 hours a day. For the first week we had an excellent...
Y’all, one week from today I get on the plane to fly to Sevilla. Growing anxiety. I will start El Camino on April 6. I hope to report progress here and continue to look for advice. How does...
Does anybody have any good ideas about secure carparking whilst doing the Vía de la Plata from Sevilla to Merida please?

❓How to ask a question

How to post a new question on the Camino Forum.

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Updates on YouTube

Camino Conversations

Most downloaded Resources

This site is run by Ivar at

in Santiago de Compostela.
This site participates in the Amazon Affiliate program, designed to provide a means for Ivar to earn fees by linking to Amazon
Official Camino Passport (Credential) | 2024 Camino Guides
Back
Top