Rest days, shops shut and weekends on the CF

[bystander]

I am planning (not over-planning I hope!) to have one rest day every so often during my Camino walk.

The only “planned” days for my itinerary that I have made are for the first nine days:

Day 1 – by train - Home -London
2 – by train - London, 7.55dep – Paris, 11.23arr – Paris, 14.07dep – Barcelona, 20.40arr
3 – by train - Barcelona, 12.10dep – Pamplona, 16.06arr – Viskarret/Corazon Puro
4 - Viskarret/Corazon Puro – St Jean Pied de Port
5 – SJPdP –Valcarlos
6 – Valcarlos – Roncevalles
7 - Roncevalles – Viskarret,/Corazon Puro
8 - Viskarret – Akerreta
9 - Akerreta - Pamplona

At present I have marked, mentally, the following cities/towns for rest days:
Pamplona
Logrono
Burgos
Leon
Sarria

What do you “pros” think of this list and what changes/recommendations would you make?

Next question – I am going to be a “hotelegrino” most of the time and for the main meal of the day intend to eat in restaurants/bars and therefore do not plan on cooking but will be shopping for “snack” en route food. The question is which days of the week do shops shut and should I consider timing my rest days with the shut shop days or for the weekends or just whenever?

Thanks

 

[KinkyOne]

Your rest days seem pretty logical for me. I mean in these cities is really lots to see and to splurge. Maybe I have a second thought abour Sarria. Personally I would rather make rest day in Portomarin or Melide at that leg of CF. But it depends on how you want to spend your rest day. Just ordinary sightseeing? Food? Culture? Architecture? Or just plain rest, with some reading and watching locals do what they do everyday while you drink a glass of wine? Later might be interesting in smaller towns too, like Carrion de los Condes, Najera (yes, too close to Logrono, I know), Sahagun, Fromista etc.

If you're interested in the list of recommended culinary experiences on CF I've gathered here on the forum I can send it to you (for I don't know what reason I can't upload .pdf files...). Just send me your e-mail address via PM.

I remember most shops, even in the smallest villages, were opened during weekends. For a few hours at least. Or somebody point the right house for me to ring the owner

Ultreia!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

At present I have marked, mentally, the following cities/towns for rest days:
Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos, Leon, Sarria. Thanks

I agree with Kinkyone, good/natural choices, except perhaps for Sarria. I don't even remember what Sarria looks like. As for Sundays ... Zip, as in the good old days.

But food in Burgos is super at luch time with all the tapa bars. (When I went by the 2nd time Burgos was Gastronomy Capital of the Wold - for a reason!)

Logrono is also an interesting, modern, city with good tapas options: capital of the wine industry after all. There's a church where you can enjoy beautiful gregorian chants - hopefully someone else can tell you which one it is - well worth a detour.

Pamplona: follow in Hemingway's footsteps, but with more moderation. Tuesday, I think, is the 'tapas crawl' day.

As for Leon, if you want nice rest, what about the Hospederia monastica Pax - next door to the albergue, and a walk through the bario humedo but also to the west of the cathedral. And do get the audio guide for the cathedral and cloister - well worth it, very well done.

 

[mspath]

Be sure to plan some 'open time' in your schedule ie. a few days which you use to truly rest wherever needed. Weather as well as your health can quickly change what fèels comfortable. Don't over plan but do leave some 'empty space' in your mental itinerary to be 'filled as needed' once you are walking.

 

[jefferyonthecamino]

Next question – I am going to be a “hotelegrino” most of the time and for the main meal of the day intend to eat in restaurants/bars and therefore do not plan on cooking but will be shopping for “snack” en route food. The question is which days of the week do shops shut and should I consider timing my rest days with the shut shop days or for the weekends or just whenever?

Thanks

Don't count on too much open on sundays or even saturday afternoons in some places. And careful with siesta time.

 

[bystander]

Your rest days seem pretty logical for me. I mean in these cities is really lots to see and to splurge. Maybe I have a second thought abour Sarria. Personally I would rather make rest day in Portomarin or Melide at that leg of CF. But it depends on how you want to spend your rest day. Just ordinary sightseeing? Food? Culture? Architecture? Or just plain rest, with some reading and watching locals do what they do everyday while you drink a glass of wine? Later might be interesting in smaller towns too, like Carrion de los Condes, Najera (yes, too close to Logrono, I know), Sahagun, Fromista etc.

If you're interested in the list of recommended culinary experiences on CF I've gathered here on the forum I can send it to you (for I don't know what reason I can't upload .pdf files...). Just send me your e-mail address via PM.

I remember most shops, even in the smallest villages, were opened during weekends. For a few hours at least. Or somebody point the right house for me to ring the owner

Ultreia!

KinkyOne, thank you for your response which I take on board particularly with your helpful suggestions re: Sarria.

"......it depends on how you want to spend your rest day. Just ordinary sightseeing? Food? Culture? Architecture? Or just plain rest, with some reading and watching locals do what they do everyday while you drink a glass of wine......"

Have we met?!!

"Food?" - I'm a foodie!
"Culture?" - Where' s my gun?
"Architecture?" - I'm an architect!

I will PM you re: your culinary experiences.

 

[bystander]

I agree with Kinkyone, good/natural choices, except perhaps for Sarria. I don't even remember what Sarria looks like. As for Sundays ... Zip, as in the good old days.

But food in Burgos is super at luch time with all the tapa bars. (When I went by the 2nd time Burgos was Gastronomy Capital of the Wold - for a reason!)

Logrono is also an interesting, modern, city with good tapas options: capital of the wine industry after all. There's a church where you can enjoy beautiful gregorian chants - hopefully someone else can tell you which one it is - well worth a detour.

Pamplona: follow in Hemingway's footsteps, but with more moderation. Tuesday, I think, is the 'tapas crawl' day.

As for Leon, if you want nice rest, what about the Hospederia monastica Pax - next door to the albergue, and a walk through the bario humedo but also to the west of the cathedral. And do get the audio guide for the cathedral and cloister - well worth it, very well done.

Anemone, thank you for your suggestions.

As to Leon, I will reconsider my own "treat" which was the Parador. I also have listed in Leon, if there isn't a waiting list, the Cocinandos restaurant.

 

[Al the optimist]

Mondays can be an issue, especially in small villages.

 

[SYates]

And don't forget, there are a lot of bars open in the small villages where you can eat during the day. I quickly gave up carrying much in terms of wayside picnics and enjoyed cafe con leche with whatever was on offer. Carry a few cereal bars and dried fruit/nuts for emergencies, but as the saying goes - The Way will provide. Buen Camino, SY

PS I do quite like Sarria ...

 

[KinkyOne]

Some bars in smaller villages even have small tienda included. Right now I remember just two of them in Villafranca Montes de Oca and Ages, but I know there are more.

If the owner of the shop is of Chinese origin that usually means the shop is open every day of the week until 10PM in my experience.

 

[waveprof]

I wouldn't waste a rest day in Sarria. Not that interesting of a town, overrun by tourists, and near enough the end you won't want to slow down. Not to mention, at that point you'll probably be wanting to keep up and finish with the people you've been around.

Instead, I'd recommend Astorga.....take in the Gaudi house, the cathedral, the chocolate museum (a fun thing to do, though Astorga chocolate isn't very good......the great camino chocolate is in Estella). But don't do Sunday for your layover, everything is closed or closes early.

 

[SYates]

Oh, forgot to mention. If you are into museums, a lot of them are shut on Mondays, so avoid that one for a cultural rest day. SY

 

[petitewalker]

Anemone, thank you for your suggestions.

As to Leon, I will reconsider my own "treat" which was the Parador. I also have listed in Leon, if there isn't a waiting list, the Cocinandos restaurant.

Just a quick reminder. The Parador in Leon is on the way out of the city and a bit of a walk back to the Cathedral and city center. We stayed right near the Cathedral in a little gem called La Posada Regia complete with a big soaking tub.

 

[KinkyOne]

Instead, I'd recommend Astorga.....take in the Gaudi house, the cathedral, the chocolate museum (a fun thing to do, though Astorga chocolate isn't very good......the great camino chocolate is in Estella). But don't do Sunday for your layover, everything is closed or closes early.

In Gaudi house, which is former Bishops palace is now Museum of Transportation through age and I was very eager to see it. I've heard that it's really interesting. First time I was there in 2011 it was Monday and most of museums, galleries and such are closed in Spain. Second time, last year, it was Monday again, so I guess I'll have to visit Astorga for the third time. Maybe when walking VdlP?

 

[MTtoCamino]

I always get amazed how some plan so well, I just simply went & put one foot in front of the other for 35 days. When I return to do it again I will keep notes but no plans on how far or were I will sleep as it will simply take care of itself. The freedom is amazing! If you set goals you may find that they hinder the freedom.

 

[bystander]

We stayed right near the Cathedral in a little gem called La Posada Regia complete with a big soaking tub.

Petitewalker, thank you for your message. I have now found and made a note of the web address and phone number for La Posada Regia which has a discounted rate for pilgrims.

 

[SYates]

And here is the link for all: http://www.hotellaposadaregia.com/en/presentacion
SY

 

[Tincatinker]

Hi @bystander. No-one else seems to have, so I do have to question why you are routing Paris / Barcelona / Pamplona / SJdP when there are perfectly good trains from Paris to Bayonne and on to SJdP and probably saving you an entire day of travelling if not two. Taking the overnight sleeper from Paris to Bayonne gives you a nights rest (in Albergue conditions ) and gets you to St Jean in plenty of time to walk to Valcarlos to arrive about 24 hrs after you left London St Pancras. While I can fully appreciate the desire to pursue a slow camino that looks more like prevarication

Buen (try not to plan to hard) camino

 

[marbuck]

The biggest worry with accommodation is in the larger city's on a Saturday. Try to avoid Burgos and Leon on a weekend, accommodation is hard to get if you want private rooms.

 

[NolaVulling]

I agree with Tincatinker. Why train it from Paris to Barcelona? Plenty of cheap places to stay near the station in either Bayonne or Bordeaux then train to St Jean. I have done this more than once after getting off a 24+hr flight from Australia. Train direct from Charles de Gaulle airport to Bordeaux. I do recommend booking your albergue in St JPdP. In the mean time enjoy your training and buen Camino.

 

[bystander]

Hi @bystander. No-one else seems to have, so I do have to question why you are routing Paris / Barcelona / Pamplona / SJdP when there are perfectly good trains from Paris to Bayonne and on to SJdP and probably saving you an entire day of travelling if not two. Taking the overnight sleeper from Paris to Bayonne gives you a nights rest (in Albergue conditions ) and gets you to St Jean in plenty of time to walk to Valcarlos to arrive about 24 hrs after you left London St Pancras. While I can fully appreciate the desire to pursue a slow camino that looks more like prevarication

Buen (try not to plan to hard) camino

Not "prevarication", Tincatinker, more self-indulgence!

I am in no hurry to get started on the CF and in no hurry to finish it after I have started.

Also I like travelling by train and having taken Eurostar to Paris I fancy travelling first class on the TGV from there to Barcelona following a leisurely lunch in the Train Bleu restaurant at the Gare de Lyon.

After a night at the Barcelo Sants Hotel and a decent breakfast in Barcelona I will catch the train to Pamplona to be met by the folks from Corazon Puro who will, the following day, take me to SJPdP where I will spend the next day meandering and gathering provisions, Opinel knife with corkscrew etc for the start of my camino.

From there on the camino will get a little more rough and ready i.e. impromptu and unplanned!

However for the return journey back I will, somehow, get from SdC to either Santander or Bilbao and then take the ferry back to Portsmouth.

 

[Al the optimist]

Like your relaxed style Bystander.