Restaurant recommendations and warnings

[eamann]

I’d welcome feedback about good (and bad) restaurants on the Camino primitivo.

I do not mean “bourgeois” type restaurants that you find in the Guide Michelin. I am thinking rather of bars and restaurants which serve a tasty and wholesome “menú del día”, often regional dishes, a far cry from the typical “menú del peregrino” dished up so often on the Camino francés.

I’m posting a similar query on the Camino del norte forum.

I leave Santander for Santiago on Tuesday 3 May, God being willing.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

In Salas there are two great places. The first is a little bar/cafe on the right hand side of the road before passing through the arch, facing the university building with the canoe statue in front of it. If you buy breakfast tbere thr lady gives you sandwich a fruit for the road.

The other place is Casa Pachon something or other, on the square where the private albergue La Campa is. 10€ will buy you a 7, seven, course meal! Who needs dinner after that?!

There is also the fancy hotel in town, but I did not eat there.

 

[Davey Boyd]

Casa Pachon cafe in Salas! We couldn't eat any more after the 5th course! When we finally arrived at the incredible albergue in Bodenaya and said we didn't want much for dinner, David the hospitelero laughed and said "So you stopped off at Casa Pachon then"!

 

[NualaOC]

Thanks @eamann for starting this thread. I'll be watching it closely! It's a real treat to get a nice meal every now and then.

 

[peregrina2000]

There's a pension with restaurant in Grandas that supposedly serves very good home cooked meals. I've been in Grandas twice, but have always had plans to make communal meals so I haven't eaten there. Both times I was there, though, others in the albergue said it was great home cooking. (Looking at gronze, it must be Fonda Arreigada, because I know it's not the Barra).

Also, the Hotel Allande in Pola de Allande. People come from miles to eat their fabada (a stew of special white beans, meats, etc, not exactly light fare). But if you walk the Hospitales route you will not go through Pola.

There's a nice meson type place a few kms before Fonsagrada. I have stopped there for coffee and saw a LOT of delicious looking food. As I left, the place was starting to fill up, so I think the food is good. I am not sure, but I think the name is something like Cuatro Vientos. In Fonsagrada itself, there are two pulperias, I've eaten in both of them and can't recommend one over the other. My palate may not be sophisticated enough, but they were both delicious, IMO. But I can only take pulpo in small doses, so it helps to be with a crowd.

It's easy to eat well on the Primitivo, in no small part because you don't have to decide which are the pilgrim places and which are the "real people" places -- there aren't enough pilgrims for a special pilgrim trade, at least not yet!

 

[Tia Valeria]

The Hotel El Salto after the dam and before the hill to Grandas serves great meals. We had a very late Sunday lunch there and then bocadillos in the evening as the restaurant closed at 16.00. Rooms too if you want to stop after the descent from Buspol - but not sure of the rates now as we stayed in 2012

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I forgot, the albergue juvenil in Castro, after Grandas, has a very nice home cooked diiner as well. There wer three of js at tne table and were served tne full pot of veggetable soup so we kept refilimg our bowls enjoying fiber and vitamines. Then it was filets of bacalao as the main course.

 

[peregrina2000]

I would just also add, in keeping with Tinca's suggestion on another thread, that these recommendations shouldn't be taken as substitutes for the joy that comes with discovering your own little special place that no one else has found. And even more than that, I remember a comment from a forum member in response to a recommendation that I had put in the Invierno guide. A couple of forum members had said, oh, you must go to this place.... This reader of the guide followed the instructions, and found to his dismay that the place was terrible! And this after having a hard time walking around O Barco de Valdeorras to find the recommended place. So, I now make quite clear that the recommendations are to be taken as one person's opinion, not gospel truth -- since opinions are like noses, everyone's is different!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Oh oh, I just realised I poste 2 more suggestions in the Norte post: the little bar in Borres and albergue O Candido. More details in the Norte thread.

 

[eamann]

Thank you all - Anemone, Nuala, Peregrina, Tia Valeria, David... - for your helpful suggestions which I have noted. I am looking forward to checking all these place out as I wend my way to Santiago. I will raise my glass in thanks to you each time I eat in one of the places you have recommended and hope that my "good vibes" will warm your hearts!

 

[Thornley]

Thank you all - Anemone, Nuala, Peregrina, Tia Valeria, David... - for your helpful suggestions which I have noted. I am looking forward to checking all these place out as I wend my way to Santiago. I will raise my glass in thanks to you each time I eat in one of the places you have recommended and hope that my "good vibes" will warm your hearts!

I smile when i see that lovely word "Wend"
My father, God Bless him used it all the time
His christian name was Eamon , very similar indeed,
Safe and dry trip,

 

[oursonpolaire]

There is a hotel before Grado (El Lacayo de Sestiello, up the hill to your left by about 2km, and just over the A-63) with an excellent restaurant.

 

[Pelegrin]

Restaurante O Caldeira (Fonsagrada). Very good pulpo and Galician food in general.

 

[eamann]

Well, I certainly have received a lot of feedback, for which many thanks to all who contributed!

I will not have time to reply to any more suggestions as I am busy making ready for my departure tomorrow morning.

- Peregrina: do not worry - if need be, I consult TripAdvisor when I arrive in a town / village, examine the menu at the outside of the restaurant and peep into the dining room to see what it looks like before going in.

- Nuala: I use the Caighdeán spelling of my name

 

[HermanTheGerman]

I’d welcome feedback about good (and bad) restaurants on the Camino primitivo.

I do not mean “bourgeois” type restaurants that you find in the Guide Michelin. I am thinking rather of bars and restaurants which serve a tasty and wholesome “menú del día”, often regional dishes, a far cry from the typical “menú del peregrino” dished up so often on the Camino francés.

I’m posting a similar query on the Camino del norte forum.

I leave Santander for Santiago on Tuesday 3 May, God being willing.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

One of the most vile pilgrims' menus we've ever eaten was at the bar in Borres, and that's saying a lot after having walked the Frances. The deep fried "steak" York and eggs was nauseating, not to mention a complete rip-off. We couldn't wait to leave and our decision not to hang around and buy rounds of drinks afterwards obviously perturbed the staff who had incredulous looks on their faces. This we assumed, was due to the fact that we were the only people there that night and also the only source of potential income for the evening. We thought it would be a challenge to screw up a cafe con letche and toast, but they decided not to open for breakfast the next morning, which was in contradiction to the stated opening times.

The albergue in Borres was equally as bad (run by the bar staff coincidentally); full of flies due to the fact that Borres is a cow village and the absence of cooking facilities appeared to be more than a coincidence.

The single positive aspect of staying in Borres however, is that you have a head-start on walking the Hospitales Route, as this is a long and tough day. Remember to bring food with you and don't count on being able to buy it anywhere in Borres.

Most of the time we opted to cook pasta meals with a bottle of red in the albergues which was a much better decision. By doing this you don't have to wait until the bars and restaurants finally open at night to order food, and if you don't like the food you only have yourself to blame ;-) The Primitivo has LOTS of ups and downs and we found ourselves hungry earlier than on other caminos.


Buen Camino,

The German

 

[Thornley]

Casa Pachon serves all day , every day from 1pm
The atmosphere around the meals with all the different pilgrims , some going , some staying in Salas is fantastic.
Francisco is a credit to this wonderful way.

An elderly Spanish man in the village made us all smile when he said
Camino Francis is the way of the stars
This way you be the judge
Most had made up there mind,
It's beautiful.

 

[Tia Valeria]

There is a hotel before Grado (El Lacayo de Sestiello, up the hill to your left by about 2km, and just over the A-63) with an excellent restaurant.

We stayed here this year. The restaurant was closed at lunchtime as it was booked for a First Communion party, but we were told this when we booked. They made us a tortilla and ensalada mixta in the evening (our choice). Lovely place to stay, next to a very old house which we thought at first was our hotel!

 

[Teresita16]

I'm in Grandas de Salime now and have had a nightmare trying to find something to eat on a Saturday evening. Half day closing for the shops. My hotel, La Barra only offers food if you have pre booked it, but I wasn't told this. All the other bars said that there is only one bar that has food but it seemed to only have 3 tables and was packed with old locals and I couldn't get in the door. Ended up getting a bit iterate back at La Barra and the owners wife brought a lovely meal up to my room. She admitted that the food situation is not quite what it could be. I think people at the municipal albergue have a communal meal. Despite it being a very pretty town I'm really surprised that even though it has loads of bars only one of them is offering food. In my Wise Pilgrim app Grandas is described as having lots of services but that hasn't been my experience. So don't rely on being able to buy food here make sure you carry something with you.

 

[peregrina2000]

The pension down the street from the church has a very big restaurant and a lot of good food!

 

[Teresita16]

I asked everywhere and was told only one which is just passed Cafe Jaime serves food, but seemed to be tiny when I went in and I had sit outside on the curb because it was so packed. In the end I gave up and left.

 

[peregrina2000]

I asked everywhere and was told only one which is just passed Cafe Jaime serves food, but seemed to be tiny when I went in and I had sit outside on the curb because it was so packed. In the end I gave up and left.

Hi Teresita, this is the place I ate in: http://www.gronze.com/asturias/grandas-salime/pension-arreigada
I'm not sure if that's where you went, but the restaurant is actually quite large, I think there may even be an upstairs, though I'm not sure. But I'm glad to see that you didn't go hungry. One of the bars was also recommended to us for pulpo, but we wanted a "proper" meal -- others who went there (not sure which bar it is) said it was quite good. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Teresita16]

Hi Laurie, yeah that is the one I went to. Maybe they open more of it up later on, but there was definitely only 3 tables in the bar. Never mind, I got to eat in the end. It's still the first town I've ever come across in Spain with bars that don't sell food.

 

[Thornley]

Hi Laurie, yeah that is the one I went to. Maybe they open more of it up later on, but there was definitely only 3 tables in the bar. Never mind, I got to eat in the end. It's still the first town I've ever come across in Spain with bars that don't sell food.

A' Reigada is it's name,
The Comedor , the room out the back would hold 60 people at least.
Yes there is only that little section in the front but the back room is large.
Serves great food

 

[Thornley]

Thanks @eamann for starting this thread. I'll be watching it closely! It's a real treat to get a nice meal every now and then.

The best meal we have experienced on ANY Camino was in
La Corte de Pelayo,
Crm Fruela and San Francisco ( water fountain )
Oviedo
2nd Floor
White table clothes, silver service , maitre d etc
Menu del dis , 12 euro
Very classy who welcome pilgrims.

 

[Thornley]

The Hotel El Salto after the dam and before the hill to Grandas serves great meals. We had a very late Sunday lunch there and then bocadillos in the evening as the restaurant closed at 16.00. Rooms too if you want to stop after the descent from Buspol - but not sure of the rates now as we stayed in 2012

A couple who walked with us gave the rooms a big rap.
Think the cost was 55 euro for double peak season
View from room , magnificent.

 

[Pelegrin]

Yes A Reigada is a good place to eat and talk to Pepe el Ferreiro the founder of the museum, the promoter of the excavations in the castro, etc. etc...

 

[Kanga]

I came across many pilgrims on the CF who were unaware that many bars have a "comedor" out the back - a dining room. The locals all know but visitors do not. The comedor is often not visible from the front where it looks as if the bar only has a few tables. If you need a meal it always pays to ask.

 

[Thornley]

The Hotel El Salto after the dam and before the hill to Grandas serves great meals. We had a very late Sunday lunch there and then bocadillos in the evening as the restaurant closed at 16.00. Rooms too if you want to stop after the descent from Buspol - but not sure of the rates now as we stayed in 2012

A couple who walked with us gave the rooms a big rap.
Think the cost was 55 peak season
View from room , magnificent.

I came across many pilgrims on the CF who were unaware that many bars have a "comedor" out the back - a dining room. The locals all know but visitors do not. The comedor is often not visible from the front where it looks as if the bar only has a few tables. If you need a meal it always pays to ask.

One reason to take your time Kanga
In the bigger villages we go by where the farmers cars are parked , and they will be facing every way without doubt,
Inside will be a dning room and it will out do any pilgrims meals offered in the village.

 

[Kanga]

I like to mix it up @Thornley - sometimes eating with other pilgrims (generally the first place in each town) for the social contact, and sometimes with the locals where the food is better and I get to practise my Spanish.

 

[Thornley]

I like to mix it up @Thornley - sometimes eating with other pilgrims (generally the first place in each town) for the social contact, and sometimes with the locals where the food is better and I get to practise my Spanish.

But Kanga we stop at lunch
There is no walking in the afternoon heat and normally the well researched will end up in The Comedor , mostly Spanish we have found
The rest of the day can be spent relaxing and socialising with the like minded who like the slow , 20 km maximum day.
However recently on the Primitivo that distance had to be increased.