RETHINK walking the Frances

[Bradypus]

I am eagerly looking forward to their publishing of their April 2023 figures.

I haven't seen the full SJPDP April figures yet but in a reply to a question on Facebook today Monique from the pilgrim office stated that numbers this April were up by 29.5%.

 

[Cissehawa]

I did CF in Winter 4years ago, didn’t book albergue
at all.This year at the end of March I saw a post here saying it will be good if you book the first 3days before you start from sjpdp, I have a bad knee I don’t know how far how fast I can walk,so just in case I decided to book 3days ahead and walk slowly at least I don’t have to worry during walking.
I tried to book Orrison a month early but it was full,
2 weeks before my starting day I booked Sjpdp, roncesvalles,Zubiru.I started at 20/4 and the pilgrim office was so busy. The next day I started 7am and arrived Roncesvalles at 4:30pm. I got my bed at 6pm .During waiting I saw many people has been turned away.I was worried, So I started to book 3 days ahead.When I got to Zubiri , I already booked Pamplona, Puente la reina, Estella.
So I keep booking at least 3 days ahead.
I’m glad I could know current situations of CF from the forum and planning my Camino .I don’t want to get stress and worry for bed during walking .

 

[trecile]

I haven't seen the full SJPDP April figures yet but in a reply to a question on Facebook today Monique from the pilgrim office stated that numbers this April were up by 29.5%.
View attachment 146180

I believe that's over last year. I think that we need to compare numbers against the last pre-Covid year of 2019 to get a really good picture of changes on the Camino.

 

[Former member 92300]

More likely they do something like this:

Town A- Place 1 - Reserve June 18th
Town A- Place 2 - Reserve June 19th

Town B- Place 1 - Reserve June 19th
Town B- Place 2 - Reserve June 20th

Town C- Place 1 - Reserve June 20th
Town C- Place 2 - Reserve June 21st

I would imagine this is the case. But I could also see someone reserving 2 places at varying distances for the same night - not knowing how far they want to walk that day.

 

[trecile]

I haven't seen the full SJPDP April figures yet but in a reply to a question on Facebook today Monique from the pilgrim office stated that numbers this April were up by 29.5%.

Just taking the number from April 2022 which was 6769 pilgrims, and adding 29.5% we get 8766, which is a 2.2% increase over April 2019 when there were 8557 pilgrims starting from SJPdP.

 

[J Willhaus]

Many of the places where I like to stay cannot be reserved and I am sad for for pilgrims who won't know them or have an experience staying there.

 

[Pilgrim9]

More likely they do something like this:

Town A- Place 1 - Reserve June 18th
Town A- Place 2 - Reserve June 19th

Town B- Place 1 - Reserve June 19th
Town B- Place 2 - Reserve June 20th

Town C- Place 1 - Reserve June 20th
Town C- Place 2 - Reserve June 21st

Once they get a better idea of when they will get to Town A, they cancel one or the other. If they need a rest day along the way, they cancel one or the other. Same with Town B and C and on and on.

If folks are more unsure of how it's going to go, they might make even more days of reservations of one town.

We can see that this method can easily at least double the reservations made, causing certain places to be "full" when they are not.

(This is just an informed guess. I don't have direct evidence of this happening.)

Don't give me evil ideas!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

So accuse me of shouting "Fire" in a crowded theatre but have you seen the latest "rumors" about the heat wave in the Meseta, there are scorching temperature, no rain and another bed panic.

It is hotter than usual on the Meseta, but not exactly "heat wave" hot. We really really need some rain, or the rye crop is going to fail.

 

[Kathar1na]

Just taking the number from April 2022 which was 6769 pilgrims, and adding 29.5% we get 8766, which is a 2.2% increase over April 2019 when there were 8557 pilgrims starting from SJPdP.
View attachment 146190

@trecile, I had decided to wait with a comment until you had checked in which rows the March data and the April data are . Then I thought I will wait until SJPP have actually updated the table with their April 2023 data and have actually put it on the web but this may take ages.

A 2% increase of the pilgrims they registered in April 2023 compared to April 2019 which was the last "normal" year before Covid-19? That's not an earth shattering increase in total numbers, is it?

 

[Ghost Rydurrrr]

I did CF in Winter 4years ago, didn’t book albergue
at all.This year at the end of March I saw a post here saying it will be good if you book the first 3days before you start from sjpdp, I have a bad knee I don’t know how far how fast I can walk,so just in case I decided to book 3days ahead and walk slowly at least I don’t have to worry during walking.
I tried to book Orrison a month early but it was full,
2 weeks before my starting day I booked Sjpdp, roncesvalles,Zubiru.I started at 20/4 and the pilgrim office was so busy. The next day I started 7am and arrived Roncesvalles at 4:30pm. I got my bed at 6pm .During waiting I saw many people has been turned away.I was worried, So I started to book 3 days ahead.When I got to Zubiri , I already booked Pamplona, Puente la reina, Estella.
So I keep booking at least 3 days ahead.
I’m glad I could know current situations of CF from the forum and planning my Camino .I don’t want to get stress and worry for bed during walking .

Yes, the bed situation is a bit frustrating. There appear to be large groups (up to 20+) who are filling up the hotels/albergues so depending on what city you are in, there are no more beds. I have also heard/seen some albergues with empty beds because people reserve ahead but then dont show up or cancel last minute.

What is equally frustrating is that i am a slow walker and try to reserve ahead so i dont feel like i am racing for a bed but i have been told to check-in by 1-2 pm or my reservation will be given away. One reservation made a couple days in advance was given away “due to confusion” but i think it is because i was due to arrive after 3 pm when most albergues start to give away reservations.

Booking.com contributed to the fear though as it will show no beds available. However, many albergues only allot a portion of their beds to booking.com so beds are still available on a walk-in basis. This has happened to me a few times where i sprung for a private room somewhere else on bookig.com only to see people able to get beds when they walk-in.

Very frustrating…

 

[Bradypus]

What is equally frustrating is that i am a slow walker and try to reserve ahead so i dont feel like i am racing for a bed but i have been told to check-in by 1-2 pm or my reservation will be given away.

I would find that very frustrating too. I usually average about 30km per day on a longer Camino and I like to walk until late afternoon - sometimes walking another couple of hours after lunch. One of the reasons for making a reservation in the first place would be to make that possible without worrying about finding a bed. Being told that I had to end my walking day by 2pm even with a reservation would make me a very grumpy pilgrim indeed.

 

[Kathar1na]

I just have to share this : I happened to look up when Elias Valiña Sampedro died (December 1989) and I saw a link to the first editions of the Boletín de Camino de Santiago that he edited. Edition #1 was published in July 1985 and I have just read it. Here's a quote (translated into English):

The Hostelry of Roncesvalles was inaugurated on the 7th of July 1985. It has 12 rooms. It offers pilgrims a special menu at modest prices. In Roncesvalles there is also a free hostel for pilgrims. Thus the monastery has regained its medieval reputation as a place for pilgrims. On the 2nd of July, three Irish pilgrims and four French pilgrims arrived at Roncesvalles. These days the Canon responsible for hospitality is travelling along the Camino in Navarra in order to signpost it appropriately. May his example be followed in other provinces and regions.​

A few comments: Hostelry (hospederia) could denote the rooms in what is now the Hotel Roncesvalles. Roncesvalles was still managed by clergy who followed the Augustine order. No distinction was made between pilgrims staying in a hotel and pilgrims staying in a pilgrim albergue (called refugio at the time) and these were free at the time (not donativo!) - in other words, very similar conditions for pilgrims as in the Middle Ages as far as accommodation was concerned and devoid of what I like to call today's ideological superstructure that came later . It sounds as if the seven pilgrims were the only ones who arrived on that day and it was in July which was the main pilgrimage season for all and everywhere in those days. The priest in question must be Javier Navarro who did a lot to revive or recreate the Camino trail through his area (the story of Elias Valiña saying that he was preparing an invasion is apocryphal). Fascinating, imo. And only, or already, 40 years ago ...

 

[Bradypus]

It sounds as if the seven pilgrims were the only ones who arrived on that day and it was in July which was the main pilgrimage season for all and everywhere in those days.

I stayed in Roncesvalles on my first Camino in July 1990. 9 pilgrims including myself staying there that night. The largest number I saw in one place for the whole walk to Santiago. Probably about 1/3 of the total number of pilgrims I met in 800km.

 

[Kathar1na]

I stayed in Roncesvalles on my first Camino in July 1990. 9 pilgrims including myself staying there that night. The largest number I saw in one place for the whole walk to Santiago. Probably about 1/3 of the total number of pilgrims I met in 800km.

I guess a little thread drifting is allowed now that the excitement about large numbers of pilgrims in SJPP has already subsided and I think you may be interested to hear this, @Bradypus: The first Boletín published by Elias Valiña has a list of the names of the persons who participated in the 1st Jacobean Meeting in May 1985; these were the first Camino movers and shakers.

The overwhelming majority are participants from Spain, in particular from towns along the Camino Francés (both branches). There are only three international participants: from the Amis de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle in Paris of course, from the Centro italiano di studi compostellani in Perugia in Italy of course, and someone from Apart.2887, Barcelona. The name is Kosti Simons from "Pilgrims International".

PS: Edited to correct name of Kosti Simons.

 

[Bradypus]

@Kathar1na I never met Kosti myself but I owe him a great debt! Only one 'm' in his surname.

 

[NorthernLight]

So, live from the camino: the Estella Municipal was ‘completo’ by 2:40 and the hospi has fled. (She actually left in a dignified fashion.) The line up here started at 11:00 with four eager pilgrims who left Puenta la Reina at 6:00.

There are some pilgrims walking about town still with their bags but I don’t know their stories. They don’t look distressed.

I’m currently monitoring the front door - out of boredom really. I’ve been for a walk about town (market day), the wash is baking in the sun, and it’s warm. Two guys just tried to get in here. It’s a query in my head, who’s more likely to help a pilgrim find a bed at 7 tonight, municipal or parochial?

 

[Dave]

So accuse me of shouting "Fire" in a crowded theatre but have you seen the latest "rumors" about the heat wave in the Meseta, there are scorching temperature, no rain and another bed panic.

At least it will be comfortable sleeping outside when you can't find a bed...

 

[J Willhaus]

There is also the ANFAS albergue in addition to the San Miguel parroquial. As I recall a few small hotels and also Ayegui on the way put of town. It is a stage town.

 

[peregrina2000]

One reservation made a couple days in advance was given away “due to confusion” but i think it is because i was due to arrive after 3 pm when most albergues start to give away reservations.

That’s very frustrating, but one thing you could try is to either WhatsApp or call the places if you know you are going to arrive late. I’ve never had a problem with that, just let them know you are still coming but will arrive late.

I don’t blame the establishments for starting to give away reserved beds/rooms, because as others have noted, there are people who make multiple reservations and then pick and choose without notifying the albergue.

 

[trecile]

There is also the ANFAS albergue in addition to the San Miguel parroquial

ANFAS is a very special albergue. It employs developmentally disabled adults who were super helpful.

ANFAS hostel | In favor of people with intellectual disabilities

www.albergueanfas.org

 

[Ghost Rydurrrr]

That’s very frustrating, but one thing you could try is to either WhatsApp or call the places if you know you are going to arrive late. I’ve never had a problem with that, just let them know you are still coming but will arrive late.

I don’t blame the establishments for starting to give away reserved beds/rooms, because as others have noted, there are people who make multiple reservations and then pick and choose without notifying the albergue.

This reservatiom was made through whatsapp. I sent a follow-up message the day of around noon to let them know i would be arriving around 4-5 but was still planning to arrive. Their response was “Lo siento no tengo tu reserva. Ha habido una confusión. Lo siento.” I sent a screenshot of the earlier message and they replied with the last 2 sentences of their previous message.

Its made me pretty leery of whatsapp reservations.

 

[Bradypus]

I don’t blame the establishments for starting to give away reserved beds/rooms, because as others have noted, there are people who make multiple reservations and then pick and choose without notifying the albergue.

I do see your point but the net effect is that in practice you no longer really have a reservation you can rely on. And you may end up rushing to your destination or stopping your day far earlier than you might wish anyway because a 'reservation' is no such thing. A pity that selfish behaviour has such consequences for the rest of us.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

After reviewing this issue and having seen some of the challenging posts in the now closed thread, I ask that we all remember over arching issues that will be with us all for a very long time, those are the challenges of mental health that we all have seen. To minimize problems will only help the world recover more quickly.

I can see that many want to, "do the walk," to heal from the pandemic years. Heres' hoping they can all be accomodated. I wish everyone could experience the healing powers of the Camino. Throughout the challenges of the coming years, be prepared, in your own way, to weather this further storm.

Peace, Blessings and good mental health to All.

 

[Bradypus]

@trecile, I had decided to wait with a comment until you had checked in which rows the March data and the April data are . Then I thought I will wait until SJPP have actually updated the table with their April 2023 data and have actually put it on the web but this may take ages.

A 2% increase of the pilgrims they registered in April 2023 compared to April 2019 which was the last "normal" year before Covid-19? That's not an earth shattering increase in total numbers, is it?

The April data is now on the SJPDP Facebook page. The total recorded this April was 9,604. By comparison the April 2022 figure was 6,796 and the 2019 figure was 8,557. Closer to a 12% increase on the record April 2019 numbers than the 2% guesstimate above.

 

[trecile]

The April data is now on the SJPDP Facebook page. The total recorded this April was 9,604. By comparison the April 2022 figure was 6,796 and the 2019 figure was 8,557. Closer to a 12% increase on 2019 numbers than the 2% guesstimate

It's also larger than a 29.5% increase over April of 2022 as reported.

The increase over 2022 numbers is 42%, and over 2019 is 12.3%, which is definitely more significant than 2.2%

The 2.2% figure I came up with earlier wasn't a guesstimate - it was based on the reported 29.5% increase, which it appears wasn't correct.

 

[J Willhaus]

Historically it looks like there have been busier months in the past in May and September so there must be additional capacity spread out over the course of each month.

 

[Felice]

Also factor in the fact that not all albergues have reopened since covid so the number of beds will be less, so a 12% increase in numbers since 2019 and a ???5% decrease in beds = a big bed race

 

[Kathar1na]

Closer to a 12% increase on the record April 2019 numbers than the 2% guesstimate above.

Oh, she did not make a guesstimate, I had checked it.

This yellow column is a somewhat unexpected way of presenting such data. So it is 29,52% in April 2023, says the table. Percentage of what is what I sometimes ask ... And what does it mean?

 

[koknesis]

if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances

I believe, when setting out for the Camino one is supposed to accept the luxury of unpredictability, what is not acceptable back there at home.

 

[Former member 92300]

What is equally frustrating is that i am a slow walker and try to reserve ahead so i dont feel like i am racing for a bed but i have been told to check-in by 1-2 pm or my reservation will be given away. One reservation made a couple days in advance was given away “due to confusion” but i think it is because i was due to arrive after 3 pm when most albergues start to give away reservations.

Don't know if this is still the case - but I have always found that if I let the albergue know I will arrive later, they will make a note of it. I also will send a reminder email in the morning if an albergue has a specific "arrive by or lose your spot" time. They just don't want to be turning people away and then have someone be a no show. I am walking the Via Francigena this summer, and there are several places I will likely arrive outside their scheduled check in time - and I always let them know my plans and ask in advance if it will be a problem. If it is - I cancel and go somewhere else - but that is rare. Most are accommodating.

 

[MARSKA]

I will be able to give you live updates as I am volunteering that week in the Pilgrim Office in St Jean Pied de Port.Was there last year at the same period volunteering there for the first time and it was hectic.

Great! Will be good to hear your report!

 

[Ghost Rydurrrr]

I heard this evening that the office in SJPP stopped issuing credenciales to limit how many were walking and to relieve some pressure on the albergues. I am not sure if that is country-wide mandate or just sjpp because someone can just bus to another city and pick up a credenciale from there. I heard some pilgrims were offered the floor to sleep at a few places and it was gladly accepted. Scary cuz its still so early in the season.

I was also told that there were census takers of sorts counting pilgrims as they entered Leon. Not sure if thats common or not but we suspect it might be to try to keep track of the flow of pilgrims.

 

[Bradypus]

I heard this evening that the office in SJPP stopped issuing credenciales to limit how many were walking and to relieve some pressure on the albergues.

Sounds unlikely and probably not very effective anyway. There is no obligation to register in SJPDP. Pilgrims could just set off without a credencial and pick one up elsewhere along the way. And there is no mention of it on the SJPDP Facebook page. Monique from the office posts here regularly and I would expect her to mention it.

I heard some pilgrims were offered the floor to sleep at a few places and it was gladly accepted.

I've read reports of that too. In SJPDP and other places. Good to know that people are finding a roof at least.

I was also told that there were census takers of sorts counting pilgrims as they entered Leon. Not sure if thats common or not but we suspect it might be to try to keep track of the flow of pilgrims

I think this might have been a misunderstanding. On the outskirts of Leon volunteers have been providing a welcome service during the main pilgrimage season for several years. Offering advice on accommodation and first aid assistance amongst other things. This is nothing new and not a response to the very recent increase in numbers. I think that may be what your informants encountered.

 

[Kathar1na]

Sounds unlikely and probably not very effective anyway. There is no obligation to register in SJPDP. Pilgrims could just set off without a credencial and pick one up elsewhere along the way. And there is no mention of it on the SJPDP Facebook page. Monique from the office posts here regularly and I would expect her to mention

I agree. The only thing that I would be willing to believe if I heard something like this is that they temporarily ran out of credencials.

 

[trecile]

Sounds unlikely and probably not very effective anyway. There is no obligation to register in SJPDP. Pilgrims could just set off without a credencial and pick one up elsewhere along the way. And there is no mention of it on the SJPDP Facebook page. Monique from the office posts here regularly and I would expect her to mention it.

I agree that this sounds unlikely as a way to limit the amount of pilgrims. Many pilgrims arrive with credentials already in hand. I'd like to hear from @Monasp about this.

 

[good_old_shoes]

Don't know if this is still the case - but I have always found that if I let the albergue know I will arrive later, they will make a note of it. I also will send a reminder email in the morning if an albergue has a specific "arrive by or lose your spot" time. They just don't want to be turning people away and then have someone be a no show. I am walking the Via Francigena this summer, and there are several places I will likely arrive outside their scheduled check in time - and I always let them know my plans and ask in advance if it will be a problem. If it is - I cancel and go somewhere else - but that is rare. Most are accommodating.

Usually I only book when I know there is no other accommodation anywhere within my walking distance (lesser walked routes) or when I know I will arrive very late and there's not many places to stay.

I always inform the hosts that I'll arrive late, with an estimated arrival time. It's a good idea to call again during lunch time again, to confirm that you will arrive at x'o clock and make sure they know you're still coming.

Once the manager of a campsite (in France) stayed on site one hour longer to check me in, because it was a 40km + day for me with no other accommodation (nothing for 40km on an official route!) and she knew it was almost impossible to arrive before the official closing time, even if you started early. I called her in the afternoon because I was afraid I might end up standing in front of a closed gate totally exhausted in the evening.

Not only did she wait for me to arrive, but I got a spot with a wonderful view of the sunset.

So, what I want to say is, communication usually works. If places are sure you'll arrive, they usually won't give away your bed. So let them know you're not the kind of pilgrim that makes reservations and doesn't show up, and most of the time there shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Ianinam]

I heard this evening that the office in SJPP stopped issuing credenciales to limit how many were walking and to relieve some pressure on the albergues.

When people arrive in Roncesvalles without a credential (mostly Spanish people who start in Roncesvalles) they can buy it at the check-in.

 

[Kathar1na]

We should all mark our calendars for the first week of September for another flurry of "the Camino Francés is overcrowded" posts.

And if we have not yet done so, we should also mark the weekend of 5-7 May because it is the second weekend in May and the weekend of 18-21 May because it is the long Ascension weekend with the Thursday being a public holiday in numerous European countries and the weekend of 26-29 May because the Monday is Whitsun Monday and a public holiday in numerous European countries.

Such dates encourage people to travel to SJPP to start their Camino and to Pamplona and Logroño for a break.

What people may also not be aware of: Europeans including Spanish people of course who do their Camino in yearly intervals may tend to do them at the same time in each year. When I was still working, some colleagues accompanied me for short stints on the chemin in France and the camino in Spain. Each year either around the 1st of May or around Ascension or around Whitsun. So there are not only waves, there are also temporary local focal points of a short duration. And it is predictable. Every year again and again.

 

[NorthernLight]

What I find one of the more interesting of phenomenon is that some municipals are allowing reservations. I arrived at one today and a volunteer was handing out numbers to those without reservations. (Those with reservations still needed to remember the order they arrived in as a reservation did not let them jump the queue … much to the annoyance of a couple of them!)

One pilgrim I met yesterday had changed her reservation in the morning, but her bag had been picked up before she’d changed the tag. Turns out she had no idea that she’d booked a room/bed on an alternate route and would have had a heck of a hassle to retrieve said bag if the transfer company hadn’t been great about it.

Only one of the walkers I’ve seen so far has shown any interest in the churches.

I must be between bubbles, because while it is busy, it doesn’t seem onerously so.

 

[J Willhaus]

I have seen pilgrims who had to taxi to pick up their bags or spent some frantic hours looking for a backpack.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Also factor in the fact that not all albergues have reopened since covid so the number of beds will be less, so a 12% increase in numbers since 2019 and a ???5% decrease in beds = a big bed race

I hear this said when people want to justify why this year is somehow different from other pre Covid years but so far no one has produced any factual information to back it up. It is all anecdotal and usually from inexperienced pilgrims with no recent experience to aid their comparisons.

It is very easy to say "but this year is so much worse because of all the albergues that have closed", no one can easily challenge that but every year the accommodation situation changes, some Albergue close for various reasons while other ones open.

In my opinion the opening and closing of albergues only really makes a difference in the immediate geographic area around those changes. It doesn't create a major difference across the whole 800 kilometres.

As in every busy period from 2016 through 2019, inexperienced pilgrims post dramatic statements about how busy the Frances is, thinking that their current experience is unique and they have this desire to warn others about their important new discovery.

Fortunately the very real busyness around the SJPdP area for two relatively short periods each "normal" year since 2016 is able to be dealt with in a variety of ways by temporarily opening up otherwise unused areas, taxiing and bussing people around and other methods and for most pilgrims involved these experiences add to their experience of their Camino.

In short, no big deal and if it happens to you then enjoy the experience and you will have another great story to tell your friends and family when you get home.

 

[Felice]

I hear this said when people want to justify why this year is somehow different from other pre Covid years but so far no one has produced any factual information to back it up. It is all anecdotal and usually from inexperienced pilgrims with no recent experience to aid their comparisons.

It is very easy to say "but this year is so much worse because of all the albergues that have closed", no one can easily challenge that but every year the accommodation situation changes, some Albergue close for various reasons while other ones open.

In my opinion the opening and closing of albergues only really makes a difference in the immediate geographic area around those changes. It doesn't create a major difference across the whole 800 kilometres.

You're almost certainly correct.
Between SJPP and Burgos I counted 6 albergues that Gronze notes are closed. So really not that many! Somehow they seemed more numerous when I was researching ealier!

 

[J Willhaus]

We did not notice closed many albergues even last summer unless they were closed for remodeling or a local fiesta, vacation of the owners, etc. For example this year Viana's parochial is closed for some updates.

 

[Former member 92300]

Usually I only book when I know there is no other accommodation anywhere within my walking distance (lesser walked routes) or when I know I will arrive very late and there's not many places to stay.

I always inform the hosts that I'll arrive late, with an estimated arrival time. It's a good idea to call again during lunch time again, to confirm that you will arrive at x'o clock and make sure they know you're still coming.

Once the manager of a campsite (in France) stayed on site one hour longer to check me in, because it was a 40km + day for me with no other accommodation (nothing for 40km on an official route!) and she knew it was almost impossible to arrive before the official closing time, even if you started early. I called her in the afternoon because I was afraid I might end up standing in front of a closed gate totally exhausted in the evening.

Not only did she wait for me to arrive, but I got a spot with a wonderful view of the sunset.

So, what I want to say is, communication usually works. If places are sure you'll arrive, they usually won't give away your bed. So let them know you're not the kind of pilgrim that makes reservations and doesn't show up, and most of the time there shouldn't be an issue.

Exactly! Almost all the people I have communicated with on the Camino (2021 and 2022) and VF for my upcoming trip have been very accommodating. Those who are inflexible have stated that they are inflexible which has allowed me plenty of time to make alternate arrangements. I usually don't pre-book most days on the Camino, but I pre-booked all of it for the VF from Canterbury to Aosta. When the accommodation host isn't a "hotel" or formal pension/bed and breakfast with multiple guest rooms - I tell them upfront that I will be hiking the Camino/Via Francigena and when I expect to arrive. A few told me the check in time, but stated that "if it is hot and you arrive earlier please call and I will try to let you in early". Others have stated "message me when you arrive (at a certain point) and I will meet you when you arrive". And others have stated - I will message you the day before with how to access your room.

Again - if they are inflexible - they will tell you. But those who can accommodate you - usually will.

 

[Former member 92300]

What I find one of the more interesting of phenomenon is that some municipals are allowing reservations. I arrived at one today and a volunteer was handing out numbers to those without reservations. (Those with reservations still needed to remember the order they arrived in as a reservation did not let them jump the queue … much to the annoyance of a couple of them!)

This doesn't surprise me. They did some of this early after COVID reopening in 2021. There were quite a few municipals that asked if I had reservations (I usually didn't). But I arrived in Spain for my Camino the very first day vaccinated tourists were allowed. I don't know how long they continued allowing reservations - but all of June 2021 I had some municipals asking if I had reservations.

 

[good_old_shoes]

In short, no big deal and if it happens to you then enjoy the experience and you will have another great story to tell your friends and family when you get home.

This.

The only time I had massive trouble finding a bed on the Francés was when I made the stupid decision to walk a long day from Roncesvalles to Zabaldika during the time of San Fermin. I had heard that they allow camping in Zabaldika so I didn't worry, I had a tent, and I felt good, so when I arrived in Zubiri at 11am I didn't want to stop there and continued.

Well, I arrived in Zabaldika, it was full, and camping was not allowed even though they have a nice garden. Ooops. What to do? Arre was full also, of course.

So I walked further, to Pamplona, thinking I'd take a bus to Puente La Reina, because there's a campsite and I would surely have a place to sleep there (I didn't know at that time that Pamplona also has a campsite. Another planning mistake).

In Pamplona I stopped at the albergue Casa Paderborn to ask for wifi, because I wanted to check the bus times.

Guess what happened?

They were full, of course. But a friend of the albergue, a Camino guide, was there in that moment to pick up a client and bring him by car to Estella. So I was invited to go with them, as Puente La Reina was on their way.

Not only did I get transported to where I wanted to go. The guide would not acccept any money from me. He also stopped at Eunate, so that his client could visit it, and I was invited too. I had never made the detour. It was wonderful! In the end I was dropped at the front door of the albergue, I had met very nice people, I had visited Eunate, and I slept in an almost empty albergue and didn't even need to put up my tent.

Some might have seen this as a catastrophic day. I loved it. I never thought I could walk Roncesvalles -Pamplona (and also through town to the guide's car!) in one go, in the heat, with a massive backpack with full camping gear, *and enjoy it*. It was a fabulous day.

In France I once was stuck during a massive thunderstorm and was taken in by the mayor of the village. I had asked for a spot in the barn, got a guest room and a dinner. True hospitality.

After I had found my kitten last year, once I slept on a bench in front of an albergue (kitten was not allowed inside). Still had a good dinner there, drank some wine with the owner and his friends that had come over, while all the other pilgrims were already sleeping, and when I got up at 4/5am or so to walk, the moon was a giant pink (!) ball, something I had never seen before and would never had seen had I slept indoors.

Those are stories one remembers forever.

There are always solutions if accommodation is not easy to find, and sometimes they're better than any room you can get at booking.com.

 

[JustJack]

This is purely annecdotal I realize, but after reading all the posts from people exclaiming how busy the CF has been so far this spring I got nervous and booked a few more nights yesterday. I'll start walking on May 16.

In total I've booked the first 9 nights, including SJPDP. And happily I can say that I had absolutely no problems finding places, staying at:

- Roncesvalles
- Zubiri
- Pamplona
- Puenta la Reina
- Estella
- Los Arcos
- Logrona
- Najera

Most were booked on booking.com, and some were booked directly via email.

There were a number of options at each stop to choose from. I was booking dorm rooms, with the exception of Puenta la Reina where I booked a private room.

So, for what it's worth (not a lot I realize), the concern/panic I felt after reading some of these posts was completely unfounded. Again, I realize this is just one person's experience.

Buen Camino

 

[J Willhaus]

This is purely annecdotal I realize, but after reading all the posts from people exclaiming how busy the CF has been so far this spring I got nervous and booked a few more nights yesterday. I'll start walking on May 16.

In total I've booked the first 9 nights, including SJPDP. And happily I can say that I had absolutely no problems finding places, staying at:

- Roncesvalles
- Zubiri
- Pamplona
- Puenta la Reina
- Estella
- Los Arcos
- Logrona
- Najera

Most were booked on booking.com, and some were booked directly via email.

There were a number of options at each stop to choose from. I was booking dorm rooms, with the exception of Puenta la Reina where I booked a private room.

So, for what it's worth (not a lot I realize), the concern/panic I felt after reading some of these posts was completely unfounded. Again, I realize this is just one person's experience.

Buen Camino

You do realize that you are staying pretty much on the stages? You will likely encounter more pilgrims in these locations. Not a bad thing, but just be aware of it...

 

[JustJack]

You do realize that you are staying pretty much on the stages? You will likely encounter more pilgrims in these locations. Not a bad thing, but just be aware of it...

Yep I realize, but as a first-time pilgrim I don't have an opinion on whether these places are the best places to stop, or if I would prefer some of the places that are off stage. The distances seemed reasonable, and the towns themselves look nice. So with no frame of reference I can't say which is better or worse. As I develop my camino legs I may decide I prefer to stop between the stages, but as I said the towns where I've booked accommodation look like the kind of places I'd like to stop at, so I don't think I can go wrong either way.

 

[henrythedog]

You do realize that you are staying pretty much on the stages? You will likely encounter more pilgrims in these locations. Not a bad thing, but just be aware of it...

But also - even though his (assume from ‘Jack’) - stages are the same as well-known guides, he’s been able to book accommodation. Therefore accommodation exists, and back we go in a big circle to post #1.

Late April to early May; it’s the same every year and it’ll be the same next year.

 

[Former member 108241]

Gosh 251 posts attempting to prove the OP right or wrong. What does that say about us? The fact is numbers are up. The subjective bit is how you handle that.

Buen camino to everyone walking, I'm jealous!

 

[dreholden]

This is purely annecdotal I realize, but after reading all the posts from people exclaiming how busy the CF has been so far this spring I got nervous and booked a few more nights yesterday. I'll start walking on May 16.

In total I've booked the first 9 nights, including SJPDP. And happily I can say that I had absolutely no problems finding places, staying at:

- Roncesvalles
- Zubiri
- Pamplona
- Puenta la Reina
- Estella
- Los Arcos
- Logrona
- Najera

Most were booked on booking.com, and some were booked directly via email.

There were a number of options at each stop to choose from. I was booking dorm rooms, with the exception of Puenta la Reina where I booked a private room.

So, for what it's worth (not a lot I realize), the concern/panic I felt after reading some of these posts was completely unfounded. Again, I realize this is just one person's experience.

Buen Camino

thanks for posting this. We also start walking on may 16th from SJPDP and I have only booked the first two nights (which I did months ago). I am the kind of person who can spreadsheet the fun out of any endeavor, so on this Camino I am fervently resisting that and going where my feet take me. Buen Camino to you!

 

[peregrina2000]

I do see your point but the net effect is that in practice you no longer really have a reservation you can rely on. And you may end up rushing to your destination or stopping your day far earlier than you might wish anyway because a 'reservation' is no such thing. A pity that selfish behaviour has such consequences for the rest of us.

Just to clarify, what I have frequently heard from albergue owners is that they will hold my reservation till 3 or 4, and if I am going to arrive later than that, they want to hear a confirmation from me, which I usually send via WhatsApp. If there’s no confirmation, the owners are free to open up the bed.

Some of the confusion others have reported could be language based, but if I had a written confirmation of a reservation on WhatsApp, and had written assurances that it would be held for me, I would try some gentle persuasion on arrival to get help finding an alternative.

 

[Kathar1na]

Gosh 251 posts attempting to prove the OP right or wrong.

That’s how some readers may perceive all 251 posts but it is not the intention of all 251 posts. People in distant armchairs have acknowledged that numbers appear to be exceptionally high this May compared to previous Mays.

It does not change the fact that numbers are much higher in May every year in these early sections of the Camino Frances than they are in June, July, August and October. Obviously too late for people who are walking right now in this area because they need to adapt and they may be in a dilemma or they may make use of suggestions in this thread to ease their own difficulties in finding a bed. But they should not scare those who plan to walk at a later time this year.

And people planning for 2024 should take note of the situation in early May. Too many are not aware of it.

 

[markie6]

But they should not scare those who plan to walk at a later time this year.

And people planning for 2024 should take note of the situation in early May. Too many are not aware of it.

I think this is one of the main reasons for the irritable posts of late. Ranting here about how bad it all is will only cause arguments. We could do with a handy guide for May to September .. what to expect , how to adapt and how to avoid being part or contributing to scare stories .. real or imagined

 

[NorthernLight]

There were plenty of empty beds at the municipal in Los Arcos last night.

I’m at a private albergue in Sansol tonight (yes, I am crawling along at turtle speed). Their door was open as I walked by, hours before check in time, and I asked about a bed and they welcomed me in. They have available beds and some rooms.

Everyone else is headed to a Saturday night in Logroño, some without reservations but hopes.

 

[Camino Jim]

I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).

consider this -

there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).

so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.

obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.

before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.

the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.

this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.

if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).

rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.

A strong recommendation use Ultrya tours or Camino ways to book accommodation’s, they also take care of transfer and luggage/backpack transfers accommodation

 

[Dave]

Just to clarify, what I have frequently heard from albergue owners is that they will hold my reservation till 3 or 4, and if I am going to arrive later than that, they want to hear a confirmation from me, which I usually send via WhatsApp. If there’s no confirmation, the owners are free to open up the bed.

Some of the confusion others have reported could be language based, but if I had a written confirmation of a reservation on WhatsApp, and had written assurances that it would be held for me, I would try some gentle persuasion on arrival to get help finding an alternative.

I'll add that I have some very long days on scouting trips where I'm going until 5 or 6pm. One of the reasons I'm very glad to have a reservation! I don't carry a functional phone, either, so I try to be very proactive about communication with the albergues over email, letting them know a few days before that I'm still on track and to expect a late arrival, and then reiterating that the night before. I've never lost a reservation. It's a little more work in the evenings, and I'm sure I'll get burned at some point, but thus far it has worked out great.

 

[Dilbin]

Perhaps pilgrims need to learn to be a tad more resourceful. Surely a simple google search would have informed people that starting from SJPdP (a busy place at the quietest of times) on a holiday weekend would pose some problems? These catastrophic posts are driving me nuts! The sky is not falling. Your lack of planning does not constitute an emergency on the part of everyone on the Camino, nor everyone on the forum. People are on here literally asking others how to buy a bra; if they can drink the water in Spain; if they can find food in Spain; if they can buy sunscreen in Spain; what an ATM looks like in Spain; how much of their foreign currency they should bring to Spain, for some reason assuming it will be readily accepted; what the temperature will be tomorrow, and the chance of rain the day after that. For the love of Christ, people, I am surprised most can make it out of their own driveway. I will be soundly chastised for this post, but seriously, seriously...?

Maybe you will be chastised although when you read posts "where can I find Asian store to buy a cheap umbrella" and "can you wear shorts on the camino" I can feel your pain . We are currently booked to finish the Portuguese from Tui onwards in August and yes I know it will be busy but so what. Its just a case of pre booking etc( something I hate doing) but is that not just common sense. There are always ways to adapt and staying at home is certainly not one of them so I can agree with you completely

 

[backpack45]

That is indeed exactly what it was in Roncesvalles up till March this year. Numbers as usual.

But as from April 1st it has been much, much busier than April 2022, every day again. I was there from April 8th till April 21st and we never ever experienced so many pilgrims in that period. We KNOW that the Easter weekend is busy, we KNOW that the May 1st weekend is busy, but on all the weekdays inbetween normally we have 130-140 pilgrims. Now we had full house (245 beds) every day again and again and had to send pilgrims away with taxi's or they took a room in the hotel which is expensive.
Last weekend also the old albergue Itzandeguia (which was closed in 2015) has been opened, so approx. 50 pilgrims slept there on the stone floor ...

My first night on the Camino in 2001 was in the old albergue and we slept on the floor on mats that were provided. At first, it was difficult to find someone who would make room for me to put my mat down, but it worked out. My husband had to sleep in another room.
I didn't expect things to start out that way, but we survived it. As we continued on, there were days I was in tears and days I was filled with joy. After a while, I "got it" -- I learned that it would all work out. One of the more memorable days was being in Spain when 9-11 happened. This was before I-phones; to get any news, we had to find a Internet "cafe" where we could pay a pittance to use a computer for a while.
We not only reached Santiago, I went on to write a book (Camino Chronicle) about our experiences. Since that time, we have returned to walk many of the other Caminos--in Spain, France, and Portugal--about 3,500 miles total. They are all different, but wonderful in their own way.
Whether or not your Plan A or B or C works out, you can still have a great adventure while learning about the countryside, the cities, the people and their culture(s), the history, and yourself. You can enjoy wonderful food, visit inspiring museums and churches, hear stirring music music, catch incredible sunrises and sunsets, and experience "trail magic." Lots of people are nervous starting out--YOU can be among those who accept that and then turn your attention to your strengths at problem solving when needed. Buen Camino!

 

[E V Waight]

Perhaps pilgrims need to learn to be a tad more resourceful. Surely a simple google search would have informed people that starting from SJPdP (a busy place at the quietest of times) on a holiday weekend would pose some problems? These catastrophic posts are driving me nuts! The sky is not falling. Your lack of planning does not constitute an emergency on the part of everyone on the Camino, nor everyone on the forum. People are on here literally asking others how to buy a bra; if they can drink the water in Spain; if they can find food in Spain; if they can buy sunscreen in Spain; what an ATM looks like in Spain; how much of their foreign currency they should bring to Spain, for some reason assuming it will be readily accepted; what the temperature will be tomorrow, and the chance of rain the day after that. For the love of Christ, people, I am surprised most can make it out of their own driveway. I will be soundly chastised for this post, but seriously, seriously...?

I love this, best post I have seen in a while. We really do still have Chicken Littles around alarming people over their short sightedness and lack of planning

 

[Steve5000]

I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).

consider this -

there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).

so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.

obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.

before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.

the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.

this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.

if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).

rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.

At the risk of being (more) controversial, walk your own Camino, plan your own way, ignore the noise and enjoy the experience. I would never suggest dismissing the facts but please get everything in proportion &/or context...

 

[slmoser]

Don't worry too much, this is just another "panic thread" - see this thread for a more varied perspective.

Buen Camino!

It’s not a panic thread. We have been on the CF for nearly 2 weeks hoping to find a reprieve after Burgos only to find that it is actually getting harder to find accommodations. A couple at dinner today in Santo Domingo who showed up early to a municipal albergue that had 160 beds, had 151 of them reserved. Not a panic thread, wish that were so…

 

[Tony Calhoun]

I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).

consider this -

there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).

so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.

obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.

before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.

the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.

this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.

if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).

rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.

We did the Via de la Plata (Sevilla to Santiago ) in 2019....hoping to to do it again, but starting on the Mozarebe...........................voila, problem solved.

 

[Turga]

It’s not a panic thread. We have been on the CF for nearly 2 weeks hoping to find a reprieve after Burgos only to find that it is actually getting harder to find accommodations. A couple at dinner today in Santo Domingo who showed up early to a municipal albergue that had 160 beds, had 151 of them reserved. Not a panic thread, wish that were so…

Well, some seem to be doing quite well, others not so well with respect to accommodation. I hope you will find the resources within you to cope with the situation and I wish you a Buen Camino.

 

[bullingtonce]

Yes, this is the conundrum. People who don’t book because they want the freedom of the winging-it approach are finding that those who did book are taking all the beds that they want to be able to waltz into. Then the winging-it contingent criticizes those who do not want to be one of those left out without a bed. Then more people book, leaving fewer beds for the winging-it crowd, who then spend hours looking for beds, while those who have booked ahead check in, take their showers, and sit in the square. Seems like the pre-booking crowd is having a much less stressful and more pleasant camino, but I get why many just don’t want to go down that path.

It’s hard to figure out how the winging-it group can continue to enjoy the Francés in high season while so many are booking beds, at least not without a lot of the pre-planning to find off-stage albergues that don’t take reservations, but that means they’ve given up on winging it! Not to mention that it’s also hard to figure out how anyone can enjoy the camino Francés if the cafés and restaurants are mobbed. I have no doubt that you can still find solitude as you walk, it’s the end points that seem more problematic.


This is a terrific point, and I am sure that is the case. I have met many people with multiple reservations at different points along the way, just waiting to decide on the perfect place for the next night until the point that there is no more free cancellation. And this is something that really hurts the business owners in addition to those who can’t find a bed!

Multiple bookings and walking the Camino--incongruous to say the least. Almost like committing a robbery on the way to church.

 

[Liltravlr]

All I can say is… of course!
Of course there are more people- I was booked for 2020 & we all know what happened. Every year I tried, so did everyone else. So there are 3x as many as pre-covid.
If the CF is “full”, then maybe those doing it for the 10th time can leave it for us newbies, please?
Maybe the Camino will provide because there will be cancellations, obviously. My sister & I are 55&64 so we are not sleeping on a concrete floor or outside. A year ago I did my research & booked with a company, despite my misgivings because they would NOT tell me exactly where I would be staying. But, we needed their meals & bag transport. My sister is a nurse who has been slaving away & this will be her first vacation in years. So yes, I made my own bookings (cancellable). We are still awaiting final confirmation from the company & leave in a few weeks.
I was told “do the last 100 k for your first time”, so we are, like a million others were told.
Not changing my plans now. Bought a ridiculously priced flight for a very short 2 week trip. But I intend to enjoy it.
Your post is a warning to others who don’t book ahead.
I appreciate this forum, thanks.

 

[Lindasc]

Don't worry too much, this is just another "panic thread" - see this thread for a more varied perspective.

Buen Camino!

I don’t agree, I’m actually on the Camino at the moment, and there is several people not able to find accommodation. There are stories of 40 people being housed in the gymnasium sleeping on flattened cardboard at Larrasoana, I have spoken to them. For me personally I’m finding it very difficult to find accommodation and I talk a lot with other pilgrims on the Trail experiencing the same issues.
This is not a criticism. This is just merely stating facts.
I believe it prudent to inform people coming into the area to let them know what to expect. I wish everyone luck in finding accommodation at the moment. it is a beautiful country and it’s wonderful to walk through the beautiful villages, the Camino has a certain magic, unlike anywhere else. I think it’s fair to consider the villages and the people trying to feed the masses of pilgrims, the stress that is placing on them as well.
Above or less, let’s be considerate to our fellow pilgrims and to the locals
Best regards

 

[Bradypus]

So there are 3x as many as pre-covid.

Where did you read/hear that numbers are 3x higher than pre-Covid? Obviously untrue. There were 42,940 Compostelas issued in the first four months of 2019 - the last pre-Covid year. For the same period this year the number was 57,281. A very significant increase in the order of 25% but throwing around a gross exaggeration like "3x as many as pre-Covid" is irresponsible. The numbers leaving SJPDP are about 12% up on the 2019 figure for the same period.

 

[Mendo girl]

I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).

consider this -

there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).

so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.

obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.

before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.

the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.

this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.

if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).

rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.

I am currently walking (started this year in Burgos) and the albergue owners and workers are already saturated so please if you are walking be patient and understand their side. Also, some have told me that there are less workers.

 

[Duane]

I don’t want to minimize anyones bad experience but today was day 16 on the Frances for myself and a friend and we have had a bed every night. Strolling into town and finding a bed has been easy. Booking ahead which I would prefer to do has been difficult and creates a sense hopelessness and yes even panic. Of course I booked Roncesvalles in advance but from there mostly winging it because I have no choice. Most of the Alberques I stayed in had beds that remained empty. A group of us who are winging it believe it’s more a problem on perception than reality.

I’m not denying some people have been inconvenienced but how big is the problem? I don’t get up early and rush to my destination and I have spent many hours walking alone seeing very few pilgrims. I have no more trouble than usual getting served in a cafe. I walked in 2019 and it may be a little busier now but it was busy then. If you want to walk the Frances, do it! Life’s too short to give up your dream.

 

[Ricardo Moretti]

I did the Frances last year and came back to do some more hiking around St Jean Pied de Port this year. spending more time in the town and talking to locals I would strongly suggest people reconsider walking the Frances route this year (or in future).

consider this -

there are about 500 people every day going through the pilgrims office in SJPdP every day currently. this number doesn't include walkers who don't visit the pilgrims office OR private groups (ie there are large number of private korean tour groups currently).

so 500 pilgrims.... and only 200 beds in Roncesvalles.... 300 people without beds on their first night.... people were spending hours walking around SJPdP looking for accomodation. people arriving in Roncesvalles either have to get transport back to SJPdP to sleep and be taken back to Roncesvalles the next morning or catch a taxi forward or walk further on. Note, walking today, the next town was fully booked in advance aswell. so people can be up for a 30km day on their first day after walking to a 1,400m peak.

obviously the accomodation issues don't disappear after the first night. Zubiri is fully booked two weeks ahead and AirBnBs booked solid. Pamplona, 2 weeks ago when I went through, the albergue (112 beds) and all hostels were full. I had to book something outside of Pamplona.

before covid the pilgrim numbers going through SJPdP ilgrims office was 63,000 a year. last year it was 70,000. this year the numbers are blowing the locals out of the water. they have never seen this volume of people and so early in the season. the are literally burnt out before the peak begins. pilgrims have been flocking since mid March.

the owner of Express Bourricot is selling her bsuiness/stepping aside in July because she is so burnt out that she said it isn't fair on her or the pilgrims because she can no longer give the quality of service in her exhausted state. the service providers in SJPdP are drowning in tourists and a number are quite unpleasant toward them as they are so over the volume.

this is completely unsustainable for the locals and walkers. more walkers are coming with tents. this will come to a head at some point.

if you want to enjoy your camino and don't want to be severely anxious about finding a bed - I really suggest you let go of the dream of the Frances and try a different route. (that said, the northern route and the de puy routes have also got very high volumes this year, based on the numbers of pilgrims I walked past and talking to the locals on those routes).

rethink your plans if you want to 'enjoy' your camino.

DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS NONSENSE. - as I disagree completely. I strongly recommend that you CONSIDER walking the Camino Frances. This writer oversimplified the reality of the available lodgings: There are hotels, Airbnb, and staying in a nearby village instead. In the heavy months, I recommend booking ahead (planning ahead). If none are available at your next destination then consider walking to the next village, taking a bus or train forwards or backwards, taking a taxi... You can pack a bivouac if you are really that worried.

If you are really, really worried, you can choose a time of year when there less people walking the Frances.

Walking is sustainable. This person has got it all wrong! Think about it, it probably started with a few walkers and today that number has grown and so have the number of lodgings! This is absolute nonsense.

 

[Jean françois]

I was in sjpdp and the nearby towns for 2 weeks from mid April.

I basically don't care if people walk the Frances or not. it doesn't affect me. but I'm putting it out there so people can reconsider their path if they don't want major anxiety. at the moment you absolutely have to book ahead. there's much less freedom in just walking til you've had enough and then finding accomodation.

you claim not to care what others are doing, yet posted in CAPITAL LETTERS to Rethink their own Camino. crowds on the CF have been a fact for most of this century.

 

[henrythedog]

I’m guilty of making more utterly pointless contributions on here than most; but this thread is - even by my standards - getting us nowhere.

 

[trecile]

I’m guilty of making more utterly pointless contributions on here than most; but this thread is - even by my standards - getting us nowhere.

I agree, so I started a thread yesterday about when and how to walk the Francés. If you have some constructive suggestions click here.