Riding a Bicycle on Camino Portugues

[Aussie Traveller]

Hi,
My wife and I are around 60 years old. We are interested in riding bicycles along the Camino Portugues from Lisbon to Santiago. We are quite fit and healthy and are seeking some feedback on the following:
a) Are the roadways for bicycles sealed and relatively quiet allowing major roads to be avoided?
b) Do the roads allow you to stop at the same places as the walkers?
c) How many hills or mountains are there to negotiate?
d) Do the albergues have a policy of only allowing bicycle riders to register late?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Kind Regards,

 

[Via Lusitana]

Dear Friends.


My name is Alexandre Fernandes, I’m the bike-pilgrim of Via Lusitana. It’s a pleasure to help you on your journey preparations”


The Caminho Português to Santiago stretches along 690km (more or less). It crosses Portugal by the central line. Along 9 days, I covered the distance with an average daily distance of 80km to 90km. This is the safe distance that you should take during your ride, for it prevents extreme physical efforts, injuries and provides the time to enjoy the cities, views, landscape and people.


The track is an average difficulty one. There are no major problems (hill’s, mountains, etc.), except for a couple of points. But still, if you’re fit and healthy those should not be a real problem.


Along with the reading, you may visit my blog page. I’ll link the pages for each stage. It’s written on Portuguese, it was edited by my wife that used phone-pictures I’ve sent along the way. You may see the pictures, just to have an idea of the path.
Regarding the stages, my advice would be for you to divide it like this (having in mind that I only had 9 days)


Stage 1: Lisboa – Via Franca de Xira – Santarém – 95km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/cam ... dia-1.html


Easy flat ground. A mix of urban and dirt tracks but safe. You will enjoy the wine lands of central Portugal. Lot’s of spots to eat and rest. Nice landscape and you will have Rio Tejo (river), along the most part of the track.


The arrival to Santarém is made on a steep tarmac climb. It goes for 2km, and ends on the main central square in Santarém. This climb is only spot to look out, for those are the two last km of the day.


Stage 2: Santarém – Golegâ – Tomar – Alvaiázere – 97km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/dia-2.html


Mainly fields. The Tejo River shows itself once again. The ground is majorly flat between Santarém to Tomar. On the exit of Tomar, you’ll have to deal with Serra de Tomar. It’s a hard hill to cross, and the first of the day. I lost myself in there, but since last year, Via Lusitana remarked the path so there should be no problem.


After Serra de Tomar the path twists and rolls itself in a mix of climbs and downhills along the way until Alvaiázere. There are a couple of small hills. The woods and views are amazing. Probably some of the most beautiful tracks you’ll find.


Stage 3: Alvaiázere –Coimbra – Mealhada – 94km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/dia-3.html


Mainly the path is what we call a “leg-breaker”. Small hills that keep rocking your legs. A mix of tarmac and dirt tracks.


When exiting Alvaiázere, you’ll face another long but average hill. The distance (around 4km), makes it long on your head, but with a steady pace it will be on behind you pretty fast.


The path opens itself on the arrival to Coimbra (the major city of students). You’ll cross Rio Mondego (river) and arrive to one of the most beautiful Santiago Church’s. From Coimbra, you’ll face another hard climb up to Mealhada. This hill may be dangerous for you’ll be tracking some national roads. But with the needed attention you’ll be safe.


Stage 4: Mealhada – Águeda - Oliveira de Azeméis – 72km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/dia-4.html


The path to Águeda is quite easy. Mainly flat and open. You should pay attention to the north wind if it shows up. It tends to face you directly and makes it a bit harder.
From Águeda you’ll cross lots of fields and populations. Lots of major points of interest to visit and photograph. You should save your legs for the last 3,5km. These are probably the hardest one’s on your journey along with another stage (Serra da Labruja), that I’ll speak about later.


These 3,5km are the arrival to Oliveira de Azeméis. A tarmac old road. Very steep (10% to 12%). I’m experienced and I had to walk it hand-pushing my bike. Once in Oliveira de Azeméis, enjoy the main square. There’s an old club (The Art Clube 1833), totally renewed by the owners. A must see.


Stage 5: Oliveira de Azeméis – Porto – 60km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/dia-5.html


An easy day. Small distance that will take you to Porto the major city of the country. The only problem on this stage will by the Serra dos Negros (hill). A couple of km of climb of hard rock path, bumpy and uncomfortable. The hill will take you to Gaia, the southern side of the Douro River. Form Gaia, there’s no other option then to deal with the national road. Dangerous. Lot´s of traffic (trucks, cars, etc.) There’s no side line on the road so you’ll have the trucks on your shoulders. Be careful. All this will be forgotten when you arrive to Porto. The view and corssing is amazing. Enjoy Porto’s river downtown. Good food, good views, good wine, good beer.



Stage 6 Porto – Barcelos – 60km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/dia-6.html


Another average day. Mainly fields. You’ll cross fields and fields and fields of amazing colors. People are friendly. Take time to visit São Pedro the Rates (the path will take you there). Also make a stop at Pedra Furada Restaurant. António the owner is a Pilgrim helper for more then 25 years. There’s a pilgrim menu and a guest book for you to “write” down your mind.
From Pedra Furada to Barcelos the path is very smooth. Simple! Take some time to see the city (the entrance by the big ancient roman bridge is amazing)


Stage 7: Barcelos – Valença (last Portuguese city of the Caminho) – 74km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/dia-7.html


Leave Barcelos early. The day will be very hard. Believe me when I say this. You will face it yourself.


Once you leave Barcelos, The path will take to some major hill and downhills. Sometimes it can make wonder is this path are for real. They are, and your legs will show this. The path starts with Alto da Portel, a long climb up-hill with amazing viws, but hard on your legs. From Alto da Portela, you will have the chance to go downhill for a couple of km until you face the Rio Minho (river), valley. Along km and km, you’ll cross forgotten villages. Lot’s of roman bridges. Lots of “green”… and all this will take you to Ponte de Lima. Take a stop here. Enjoy the rest. Lot’s of monuments that you should visit. You’ll need this stop for from this moment one you’ll start a very long up-hill all the way to the top of Serra da Labruja (hill). This is considered the “black spot” of the Portuguese Caminho. On the first km the up-hill is smooth and you´ll be introduced to some steep climbs, that prepare (or ruin), your legs for the Labruja.


The path is a mountain one. No major roads. Secure and amazing.


Eventually the preparing hills will take to the Labruja path. It’s impossible do rde a bike here. The track is full of loose stones, twisted tree roots, hard 90º corners. But the worst part is the steepness. 18%. I had to carry my bike on my shoulder for more them 2km. On the path you’ll cross the French Crucifix. It’s impossible to miss it for there’s no other way. This marks the climb mid-point. Ahead the path becomes more difficult.


At the top of the hill, there’s a fountain, a mountain ranger house, shadows and a nice green grass field to rest. Take your time. Enjoy the view. The descent is also dangerous, although it’s not comparable to the up-hill you just finished.


Take your time to go down. Enjoy the ride. The descent will take you to Rubiães. Nice, small place to rest for a while. From here it’s an easy path to your destination (Valença)
Arriving to Valença will take to the inner-castle-walls of the ancient part of the city. It’s amazing. Enjoy it. And prepare yourself to say goodbye to Portugal.


Stage 8: Valença – Caldas de Reis – 93km


(no link for this day, my wife did not edit this. She went to get me at Santiago)


From Valença, take the road that leads to the Rio Minho (river). And old iron and steel bridge will cross you to Spain. On the other side of the margin you lose one hour (time difference between Portugal and Spain), so plan your day having this in mind. At 8h in Portugal it’s 9h in Spain.


When crossing the bridge have a minute to observe the river quietness and the abandon customs facilities on both sides. You enter Spain by the city of Tui. Visit the Catedral.
In Spain, the path does not present any major problems. On your way to Caldas de Reis you cross some woods, face some tarmac. Pay attention to the Porrino road. And industrial area with a stretch of 4km of tarmac loaded with trucks. Once you leave the Porrino there are a couple of steep of small hills on your way. The major one’s are the Cavaleiros Road, very steep but short. The other ones are easy to deal with.


The arrival to Caldas de Reis is made over the fields. Lots of fountains. Don’t drink the water.
Caldas is an ancient thermal city. There’s a fountain (lions fountain), the runs hot water. Take a moment to put your hands and feet under it. It’s fun, and strangely “refreshing”.


Stage 9: Caldas de Reis – Santiago Compostela – 45km


http://70ocean.blogspot.com/2009/03/cam ... o-70s.html


No major problems. Mainly fields and nice tracks. The day will start slowly. It’s the last day there’s no rush just the sureness that Santiago is near. The major difficulties of the day are the last hill that will take you to Milladoiro (from where you’ll see Santiago for the first time), enjoy the moment. From Milldoiro you’ll find a big tarmac downhill that will take to a roman bridge. That’s exactly where you start the last and final climb all the way to Obradoiro (the main square facing Santiago Compostela cathedral). Once you cross the bridge, a very, very, very, steep, but very short up-climb (300m), will break your legs. That’s your final effort to prove yourself that you can do it. It’s called the Hospital Climb.


From the Hospital, your 2lm away from Obradoiro. Forget the rest of the world and enjoy your arrival.


You are in Santiago. You’ve made it.


List of major cities you will cross


Lisboa - Alhandra, Alverca, Vila Franca Xira, Carregado, Vila Nova Rainha, Azambuja, Santarém, Golegã, Tomar, Alvaiázere, Ansião, Rabaçal, Condeixa, Coninbriga, Coimbra, Mealhada, Águeda, Albergaria (Velha), Alvergaria Nova, Oliveira Azemeis, São João da Madeira, Grijó, Porto, Araujo, São Pedro Rates, Pedra Furada, Barcelinhos, Barcelos, Ponte Lima, Rubães, Serra da Labruja, Valença do Minho, Tui, Porrinõ, Mós, Redondela, Pontevedra , Caldas de Reis, Padron - Santiago de Compostela.


Hope this helps. It will be a pleasure to provide any other info if needed.


My best Regards and wishes of safe and amazing journey.
May Santiago be with you along this crossing.

Alexandre Fernandes

http://www.vialusitana.org

 

[Aussie Traveller]

Alejandre,

Thank you so much for your extensive reply. We really do appreciate it and the effort you gave. I put up my initial post some time ago and wondered whether we would ever receive a reply. I never expected to receive such a detailed and informative response. We also looked at your blogsite and enjoyed your photographs. We look forward to our visit to Portugal and Spain in May. Your bicycle appears in so many photographs. It appears to be such a good companion for you on your journey north.

Buon Camino

Denis & Anne

 

[jl]

Hi Dennis and Anne, there is a "bikeline" guide book for cyclists (in German) available for the Camino Frances - it might pay to check out if there is one for the via Lusitana. If you spend 25 pound on Amazon UK you can get free postage to Australia (as well as free postage from the book depository - where I got some bikeline guides for Jakobswege) The maps in these guides are fantastic - but like I said I am not sure if they do one for where you are going. Cheers, Janet

 

[Via Lusitana]

Hello Denis & Anne.

Thank you for your kind words. I tried to be as accurate as possible. The journey is amazing and the landscapes will take your breath away. Believe me.

Allow me to tell you that Via Lusitana (http://www.vialusitana.org), is a non profitable organization dedicated to the Portuguese Central Way to Santiago. We are group of pilgrims that dedicate our extra time to promote and maintain the Way. Our head-quarters are in Lisbon (Portuguese capital). There are several other similar organizations distributed along Portugal that develop similar work. We are in contact with the majority of them. Also our Association is recognized by the Pilgrims Office and Santiago Compostela Catedral.

If you so desire, we may provide your Pilgrims Credencial and also your first stamp (from Via Lusitana) to it. All you have to do is inform us of your arrival date and we will arrange It for you.

Regarding further information (places to sleep, stages, guides, etc), please visit the URL I’ve sent above.

Also, I’ able to inform that very shortly the website will also be posting the altimetry of the complete way to Santiago, you will be able to download it from there.

Additionally if you’re a FACEBOOK user, search for VIA LUSITANA… easy to find, make yourself our friend. Keep in touch, we will be very glad to help.

Regarding my bike… yes, there are lots of pictures of her… the reason for that is that I’ve made de Way alone… and in lots of places there was no other option that photograph the track and bike. That bike is Specialized XC Pro… prepared for all mountain and downhill. Is very light and easy to ride, and will always be a bike to keep. If It would talk, it would have lots of adventures to tell…

One last tip… I’ll be back to the Way, later on April (21st to 25th)… this time with a friend. We will track and review a new alternative for the Way. The Costline Way. It starts in Porto, and moves to North always with the Ocean at your left. It’s a brand new track, just tagged and marked with the traditional yellow arrows. It will be a new adventure. The Via Lusitana website and Facebook will provide details and information on my return. So by May, this new information will be posted.

For any further assistance, please use the website contacts (http://www.vialusitana.org), we are more them glad to help.

Once again… may Santiago smile to you on your journey across the path, and remember “the real path starts when you arrive to Santiago”.

Have Fun.
Alexandre.

 

[rambo]

Is there a place to buy the credencial in Pamplona and in Leon?

 

[albergue_de_rates]

Hi,

To add some information on "Via Lusitana" post you may find stages maps and profiles from Porto to Santiago.

http://www.alberguederates.com/index_EN.html



Ultreia
Pedro
Albergue S.Pedro de Rates

 

[albergue_de_rates]

Hi,

This map represents two possibilities (marked with arrows, and with historical backround ) of the Camino de Santiago leaving Porto.
If you walk from Vila do Conde to Esposende you will only find road and road...

Looking forward to help

http://www.alberguederates.com/index_EN.html



Ultreia
Pedro
Albergue S.Pedro de Rates

 

[Older Guy]

I did a bicycle Camino Francis in May 2016, (Papal year of Holy Mercy) Pamplona to Santiago. I am now 69 and thinking about doing another Camino during the Holy Year 2021 again by bicycle. For a 200 km bicycle
Compostela, Porto to Santiago is about 215 to 226 km depending on whether you take a more inland route or not.

I have been to Portugal before and found Porto to be a wonderful place and would like to start from there or somewhere a bit inland. My hope is to find as flat a route as possible. Google maps shows this route as being much less hilly than the last 200 km of the Camino Francis.

The new Portuguese Camino guide has both a coastal and inland route, so thinking about getting that.

I was hoping that someone who has ridden the Camino Portuguese by bike can comment on as relatively flat a route as possible through Portugal.

Also, I realize that the CF has much more traffic and so more infrastructure (hostels, etc for pilgrims), but does the CP have some of the infrastructure that the CF is famous for, like luggage service for those days with major hills or lots of alternatives for lodging. Also are there more defined seasons when lodging is likely to not be open on the CP?

Thank you.