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Rome to Nice Via Francigena backwards

GavinSkull

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Portugues / Camino Frances
Hi, I would like some advice from people who have walked from Rome to France. I would like to know how the infrastructure, hostels, and general social and walking experience compares to Spain. Cost of hostels and food is my main concern, as I believe Italy is more expensive than Spain and also proably the coastal regions of France. I would like to see if I can walk to Roncevaux and then decide what other routes I would like to do from there. Last year I walked the Del Norte and '22 the Francais.

I discovered this is the end part of the Via Francigena and I would be walking backwards to the normal route. The route backwards would be the same from Rome to Massia then I would follow the coast to Genoa then Nice.

Has anyone walked this way?
 
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I haven't walked it but I had an idea to do it once so I did a bit of preliminary research. A possible route could be:

  1. Via Francigena (backwards): Rome - Portonetti (21 stages, 495km)
  2. Sentiero Liguria: Portonetti - Ventimiglia: 30 stages, 675km)
Ventimiglia is the Italian border town close to Nice.
 
Having already walked the Via Francigena to Rome in 2022 and from Arles to Santiago in 2018. I looked into part of the route you are considering in an effort to complete the crossing from Rome to Santiago in 2023. However after a good look at the route along the Italian and French coast I learned that it very often involves cement and paved roads through some very touristy areas. I don’t mind the road walking, but decided to walk the Way of St Francis instead, also a decent walk though more challenging than the coastal route I was considering. I’ve walked distance in France, Spain and Italy many times and always find France more expensive than the more southerly routes. Sorry, I can’t advise on pilgrim accommodation availability, but I would guess that it’s not what you are use to from your two walks in Spain. Not enough foot traffic to find dedicated pilgrim accommodation. The tourism along much of this stretch is pretty busy, I think more so than what I saw along the Norte, meaning that you will likely have to book well ahead as you go. Hope you figure it out and that you post a bit of what you learn here on the forum for others. Enjoy!
 
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I should mention that I met a Spanish fellow in a pilgrim accommodation north of Rome who was walking the Rome-Santiago route and he expected to take about 3.5 months. A friend and I have assessed the route a number of times and think that if one is capable of a high daily average with very few rest days that it could be done end to end in very close to 90 days which is a consideration for us as we live in Canada restricting us to 90 days in the EU. I also want to mention that there is a Facebook Group page on the Rome-Santiago route that you could join with more resources. See, I was pretty serious about walking this!😂
 
Hello, I am walking from Rome to Santiago I'm on the Aragones now. I walked the via francigena in reverse to start. After that I tried to follow via della costa but ended up walking on the roads which I don't mind. The Menton - Arles GR route takes you away from the coast but I had never been to the riviera so I kept on the road. Iwalked the whole italian and French riviera on pavement, some was dedicated pedestrian areas. I just kept the Mediterranean sea to my left no need to look at a map and then a nice Aperol Spritz at the end of the day.! Good luck with your plans and enjoy your camino.
 
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I walked Rome to Santiago in 2012. I cannot find my "as walked" itinerary, nor my journal. The draft indicates 106 days.

Because of the diversity, probably one of the best I have walked. There was a 9 day stretch near Genoa which was not great. I only got lost once.

Costs were higher than Spain, but still affordable.
 
Hello, I am walking from Rome to Santiago I'm on the Aragones now. I walked the via francigena in reverse to start. After that I tried to follow via della costa but ended up walking on the roads which I don't mind. The Menton - Arles GR route takes you away from the coast but I had never been to the riviera so I kept on the road. Iwalked the whole italian and French riviera on pavement, some was dedicated pedestrian areas. I just kept the Mediterranean sea to my left no need to look at a map and then a nice Aperol Spritz at the end of the day.! Good luck with your plans and enjoy your camino.
Wow! Nice plan! How long do you expect to need to complete it?
 
Look up via della costa. Thay is the name of the coastal pilgrim route around the ligurian coast. There is a list of parishes and other accommodation accessible to pilgrims. In 2012, when it was being waymarked and when I walked it, it sometimes took the paved coastal way and sometimes made lovely wild climbs into hills above the coast. Always call a day in advance. I had a sleeping bag and a sleeping mat which helped a lot.
 
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