Roncesvalles and Mansilla seem to be the bed crunch trouble spots

[isawtman]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

 

[dick bird]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

The albergue in Mansilla has been closed for quite a while for 'renovations', which did not seem to be happening back in June. I think the closure may be indefinite. Does anyone know any different?

 

[Kanga]

Yes, that accords with my impression but I don't have reliable information.

I recall way back in 2004 walking an extra long day into León because the albergue in Mansilla was closed. It was probably a different one - such a long time ago.

 

[Ianinam]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

In Roncesvalles we certainly have not lowered the number of beds, in fact last April we have increased the number of beds from 217 to 245 beds in total. These 245 beds were all occupied every day in the first two weeks of September (as they were in the first two weeks of May).
When somebody chooses to start in SJPdP in these two busy periods (May/September) it is indeed recommended to make reservations, as in these weeks every day hundreds of pilgrims start in SJPdP. In other periods this is not really an issue.

 

[Kathar1na]

When somebody chooses to start in SJPdP in these two busy periods (May/September) it is indeed recommended to make reservations, as in these weeks every day hundreds of pilgrims start in SJPdP. In other periods this is not really an issue.

And this needs repeating because so many first time pilgrims are obviously unaware of the fact that the first two weeks in May and in September are the busiest periods for pilgrims in SJPP and Roncesvalles.

I got curious and see from other posts that the OP observed that Roncesvalles "was all filled up on Friday night" - that was Friday, 2 September 2022! One could hardly pick a busier day or busier weekend than the first weekend of September to start walking in this section of the Camino Francés.

 

[Bradypus]

And this needs repeating because so many first time pilgrims are obviously unaware of the fact that the first two weeks in May and in September are the busiest periods for pilgrims in SJPP and Roncesvalles.

This has been true for a while. I started my most recent Camino Frances in mid-September 2016. The train from Bayonne was so overcrowded that some passengers - myself included - were taken off before departure and sent by taxi to SJPDP at SNCF's expense. I was told later that every albergue and hotel bed in the town was taken that night. Roncesvalles was a frantic circus when I reached it the next day!

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

This is what I wrote about Roncesvalles on 22 April, when it took over an hour to check in:
The albergue in Roncesvalles was full last night and they were turning people away with no reservations. They checked in 300 pilgrims when they were expecting only half that. No one could explain the surge. One girl, the paid official, was the only one allowed to operate the check-in desk and she also had to answer the phone. The volunteer hospitaleros could only show people to their beds and commiserate.

In front of me in the queue was a friendly Italian chef, who had worked all over the world. He suddenly remembered he had a hip flask in his backpack, which reminded me I had a tiny bottle of medicinal whiskey disguised as a vitamin drink. We were able to put up with the dire conditions (cold, wet and tired) by having a little drink, to the amusement of everybody else in the queue. Of course we were unable to share because of COVID.

 

[Ianinam]

And this needs repeating because so many first time pilgrims are obviously unaware of the fact that the first two weeks in May and in September are the busiest periods for pilgrims in SJPP and Roncesvalles.

I got curious and see from other posts that the OP observed that Roncesvalles "was all filled up on Friday night" - that was Friday, 2 September 2022! One could hardly pick a busier day or busier weekend than the first weekend of September to start walking in this section of the Camino Francés.

That night we had 252 pilgrims, including 5 tents with 7 pilgrims.

 

[Ianinam]

This is what I wrote about Roncesvalles on 22 April, when it took over an hour to check in:
The albergue in Roncesvalles was full last night and they were turning people away with no reservations. They checked in 300 pilgrims when they were expecting only half that. No one could explain the surge. One girl, the paid official, was the only one allowed to operate the check-in desk and she also had to answer the phone. The volunteer hospitaleros could only show people to their beds and commiserate.

In front of me in the queue was a friendly Italian chef, who had worked all over the world. He suddenly remembered he had a hip flask in his backpack, which reminded me I had a tiny bottle of medicinal whiskey disguised as a vitamin drink. We were able to put up with the dire conditions (cold, wet and tired) by having a little drink, to the amusement of everybody else in the queue. Of course we were unable to share because of COVID.

On April 22nd we had 243 pilgrims.
Unfortunately the albergue in Roncesvalles has only one check-in desk, with only one scanner for the passports. The hospitaleros have asked many times for a second check-in desk, where a hospitalero can check-in also, but up till now this is not yet realised.

 

[auburnfive]

Hmmm….for a number of reasons September is the best month for me - would starting wither the third week of August or the third week of September make much difference? We will stay in the off Brierly stages as much as possible.

 

[Ianinam]

Hmmm….for a number of reasons September is the best month for me - would starting wither the third week of August or the third week of September make much difference? We will stay in the off Brierly stages as much as possible.

This year 2022 in Roncesvalles:
week 33 (15-21 August) 1170 pilgrims
week 34 (22-28 August) 1326 pilgrims
week 35 (29 August - 4 Sept.) 1581 pilgrims
week 36 (5-11 Sept.) 1687 pilgrims
week 37 (12-18 Sept.) 1675 pilgrims
week 38 (19-25 sept.) 1499 pilgrims

Starting third week of August would be the best option I think, though next year can be different of course. I would certainly make a reservation in order to have a bed in Aterpea, the renovated building. This is so much more comfortable than sleeping in the Dependecia (the winter-albergue) and in the sótano (the basement).

 

[Bradypus]

We will stay in the off Brierly stages as much as possible.

I doubt that Brierley's guide has the direct impact that is so often assumed. Native speakers of English are still very much in the minority on the Caminos and speakers of other languages tend to use guides by other authors. Of course certain towns are a natural magnet for pilgrims because of their location or special character. Though I'm not a fan of his guides I'm not convinced that the Blessed JB is to blame for much of the congestion

 

[stevepjq]

The walk onto Burguete is indeed an easy one from Roncesvalles. I stayed at a relatively new albergue called Lorentx back in April. It was very clean (all stainless steal so a little lacking in charm), comfortable and convenient for an early morning start the next day. There is a nice little tavern in town for a simple dinner and a beer.

 

[isawtman]

In Roncesvalles we certainly have not lowered the number of beds, in fact last April we have increased the number of beds from 217 to 245 beds in total. These 245 beds were all occupied every day in the first two weeks of September (as they were in the first two weeks of May).
When somebody chooses to start in SJPdP in these two busy periods (May/September) it is indeed recommended to make reservations, as in these weeks every day hundreds of pilgrims start in SJPdP. In other periods this is not really an issue.

Well, if they are filled up at a regular rate, shouldn't you guys be making plans for more beds? Just saying

 

[isawtman]

In Roncesvalles we certainly have not lowered the number of beds, in fact last April we have increased the number of beds from 217 to 245 beds in total. These 245 beds were all occupied every day in the first two weeks of September (as they were in the first two weeks of May).
When somebody chooses to start in SJPdP in these two busy periods (May/September) it is indeed recommended to make reservations, as in these weeks every day hundreds of pilgrims start in SJPdP. In other periods this is not really an issue.

What was the bed count before 2017?

 

[Bradypus]

Well, if they are filled up at a regular rate, shouldn't you guys be making plans for more beds? Just saying

Easier said than done. The number of beds was reduced because the old overflow accommodation didn't meet modern legally-required standards. Not the choice of the Colegiata. Who is going to pay for more accommodation to be built to approved standards which will only be required for short periods at peak demand?

 

[Ianinam]

Well, if they are filled up at a regular rate, shouldn't you guys be making plans for more beds? Just saying

There are advanced plans to renovate another wing of the building, making up another 100 comfortable beds. But in this old part of the building there are still some old Spanish people living, and they have the legal right to live there till they die.
A renovation like that will take a few years, so in the near future we will have to do it with what it is.

And I am afraid that - as soon as this wing is ready and we have much more beds than we have now - it will be very difficult to have enough volunteers every year to manage this all. We are with a group of 130-140 volunteers now, most of us are 70+, some even 80+ and in the near future a certain amount of them will have to stop being a hospitalero because of medical problems. Getting 18 groups filled with 8-9 hospitaleros, working there two weeks, is becoming a problem already, so more beds bring more problems.

Not in the least because certain pilgrims are getting more and more demanding .... Thinking they are in a 5* hotel, requiring of us full service, leaving behind a lot of rubbish that we have to clean up in the morning, while we are just volunteers, and certainly not professional hotel personnel. Some hospitaleros drop out now due to the attitude of those 'pilgrims' but I realise this is quite off topic ....

 

[Bradypus]

Some hospitaleros drop out now due to the attitude of those 'pilgrims' but I realise this is quite off topic ....

The sense of entitlement which some people bring to the Caminos is astounding. In autumn 2016 I stayed in the recently refitted municipal albergue in Burgos. Brand new bunks, mattresses, showers, toilets and wash basins. A lift to the upper floors. The price for a bed was €5. And one young man startled the entire dorm by yelling loudly and angrily "This place is f*****g s**t!"from his upper bunk. The problem? He couldn't get a strong enough WiFi connection for real-time video chat with a friend across the Atlantic.

 

[ChrisGall]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

You can't be "slow" if you did the Frances in 30 days!

 

[Globetrottingpilgrim2010]

And this needs repeating because so many first time pilgrims are obviously unaware of the fact that the first two weeks in May and in September are the busiest periods for pilgrims in SJPP and Roncesvalles.

I got curious and see from other posts that the OP observed that Roncesvalles "was all filled up on Friday night" - that was Friday, 2 September 2022! One could hardly pick a busier day or busier weekend than the first weekend of September to start walking in this section of the Camino Francés.

I’ll reiterate my concerns relating to overcrowding on the CF and pose the question as to whether it might come down to the fact that at some point in the not-too-distant future there will come into effect some sort of reservation/lottery system in order to limit the numbers of pilgrims walking (especially during certain times of the year). Any thoughts on this matter would be interesting to hear.

 

[Bradypus]

I’ll reiterate my concerns relating to overcrowding on the CF and pose the question as to whether it might come down to the fact that at some point in the not-too-distant future there will come into effect some sort of reservation/lottery system in order to limit the numbers of pilgrims walking (especially during certain times of the year). Any thoughts on this matter would be interesting to hear.

When I walked my second Camino Frances in 2002 I was astonished at the huge number of pilgrims - more than 10x the number on my first Camino in 1990 - and I thought that the route must be reaching saturation then. I think there were about 70,000 Compostelas issued in that year. So far this year the total is more than 400,000. I have given up speculating on how things will develop from here on...

 

[stevepjq]

My opinion is that it is absolutely uncontrollable - and rather regimented which absolutely goes against the grain of the spirit of the Camino

 

[trecile]

I’ll reiterate my concerns relating to overcrowding on the CF and pose the question as to whether it might come down to the fact that at some point in the not-too-distant future there will come into effect some sort of reservation/lottery system in order to limit the numbers of pilgrims walking (especially during certain times of the year). Any thoughts on this matter would be interesting to hear.

Since there is no overall organization in charge of the Camino and accommodations in all regions I don't see how this is possible.

 

[Bradypus]

My opinion is that it is absolutely uncontrollable - and rather regimented which absolutely goes against the grain of the spiritp of the Camino

Yes and no. In the years since my first Camino I have seen the whole business of walking the Camino becoming increasingly regimented and controlled. The introduction of a minimum distance rule. The demand for an approved credencial. The "two sellos per day" rule. The expectation now that pilgrims will pre-register online before visiting the pilgrim office. And now the insistence that pilgrims must walk one of a limited selection of approved routes if they wish to receive a Compostela. As far as the pilgrim office is concerned regimentation is absolutely part of the spirit of the Camino. Of course you are free to disregard all that if you do not wish to receive a Compostela at the end of your journey.

 

[DyanTX]

We stayed in Roncesvalles on Sept 23, 2016. Arriving late on a Friday afternoon with no reservation because we had been told (erroneously) that it was first-come first-serve. Barely got a bed in the basement on creaking metal bunks with no side rails on top and no ladders to ease climbing. I can see why this area would have been closed to future pilgrims. It was undoubtedly the worst night with little sleep as I was afraid I'd fall off the top bunk.

 

[CarrieJL]

Just completed Camino 2 weeks ago. I booked in advance for private lodging from SJPDP to Pamploma due to these suggestions. booked 2 nights in advance Pamploma onwards. Def found Mansilla bed space impossible so we walked there and bussed to Leon as Brierly suggested. Also found lodging in Portomarin difficult so we found a sofa bed in a fab pension in village of Vilacha, just before Portomarin.
Buen camino

 

[isawtman]

You can't be "slow" if you did the Frances in 30 days!

Don't confuse persistence with being fast. Yes, I was slow. I had to hike two hours longer to get to the same place other people did when we started out together in the Morning. That's slow

 

[isawtman]

Easier said than done. The number of beds was reduced because the old overflow accommodation didn't meet modern legally-required standards. Not the choice of the Colegiata. Who is going to pay for more accommodation to be built to approved standards which will only be required for short periods at peak demand?

what was wrong so it wouldn't meet the standards?

 

[trecile]

what was wrong so it wouldn't meet the standards?

I understand that it wasn't up to fire codes.

 

[isawtman]

Not up to fire codes. That could be a bunch of stuff. Could you be more specific

 

[Bradypus]

what was wrong so it wouldn't meet the standards?

I think @Ianinam was a volunteer in Roncesvalles at the time of the closure and might have an answer. I don't recall that specific details of the problems were made public at the time.

 

[stevepjq]

Holy Saturday back in April, I stayed at Albergueria del Camino in Mansilla. Great place with a restaurant attached. My son met me the day before and this place turned out very good.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I wonder what percentage of pilgrims during these massive overflow days are first-time pilgrims.
IMHO, a huge number of those pilgrim beds are occupied by people who keep coming back over and over again, wondering why so many people are on the Camino these days.

 

[DyanTX]

I wonder what percentage of pilgrims during these massive overflow days are first-time pilgrims.
IMHO, a huge number of those pilgrim beds are occupied by people who keep coming back over and over again, wondering why so many people are on the Camino these days.

I was a first time pilgrim in 2016 and I have wondered the same myself.

 

[CarrieJL]

I wonder what percentage of pilgrims during these massive overflow days are first-time pilgrims.
IMHO, a huge number of those pilgrim beds are occupied by people who keep coming back over and over again, wondering why so many people are on the Camino these days.

For me it was COVID, originally planned
To do this last year. Many I’ve met also said same Reasons. Also Holy Year has been extended from last year to this year, again due to COVID. Sarria onwards was pretty busy!

 

[Kathar1na]

There are advanced plans to renovate another wing of the building, making up another 100 comfortable beds. But in this old part of the building there are still some old Spanish people living, and they have the legal right to live there till they die. A renovation like that will take a few years, so in the near future we will have to do it with what it is.

I had a look at old threads. The current wing that houses the pilgrim albergue was inaugurated in 2011 and there's still a news article available.

The total cost for renovating this historic building in order to create 180+ pilgrim beds over three floors was more than 6 million euros.​

​

The work as a whole consisted of three projects: ​

• the demolition project, carried out between 2008 and 2009, with a final cost of 884,000 euros;
• the structures project (2009-2010), with a cost of 2,506,000 euros;
• and the interior adaptation project (2009-2011), with a final cost of 2,880,000 euros.
  
  The budget for the furniture amounts to 117,000 euros.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)​

 

[Bradypus]

IMHO, a huge number of those pilgrim beds are occupied by people who keep coming back over and over again, wondering why so many people are on the Camino these days.

As one of those repeat offenders on my last Camino Frances in 2016 I was aware that I was just as much a part of the overcrowding problem as anyone else. Didn't stop me complaining about it though! But are you arguing that no one should ever repeat a Camino? That seems a bit severe. Should there be some statute of limitations which allows old timers some prospect of returning one day?

 

[isawtman]

I wonder what percentage of pilgrims during these massive overflow days are first-time pilgrims.
IMHO, a huge number of those pilgrim beds are occupied by people who keep coming back over and over again, wondering why so many people are on the Camino these days.

Starting out on Sept 2, I met a lot of people. The vast majority of them were first timers. There was Emmon an Irishman who did it before and was guiding two newcomers. Then there was Tim from Chicago who did it before. The 50 or 60 other people that it was brought up with, all were first timers. Personally, if I do the Frances a second time it would be like Emmon, helping some friends. Otherwise, I would be doing a different Camino if I'm doing a second trip.

 

[JeanneClaire]

There are advanced plans to renovate another wing of the building, making up another 100 comfortable beds. But in this old part of the building there are still some old Spanish people living, and they have the legal right to live there till they die.
A renovation like that will take a few years, so in the near future we will have to do it with what it is.

And I am afraid that - as soon as this wing is ready and we have much more beds than we have now - it will be very difficult to have enough volunteers every year to manage this all. We are with a group of 130-140 volunteers now, most of us are 70+, some even 80+ and in the near future a certain amount of them will have to stop being a hospitalero because of medical problems. Getting 18 groups filled with 8-9 hospitaleros, working there two weeks, is becoming a problem already, so more beds bring more problems.

Not in the least because certain pilgrims are getting more and more demanding .... Thinking they are in a 5* hotel, requiring of us full service, leaving behind a lot of rubbish that we have to clean up in the morning, while we are just volunteers, and certainly not professional hotel personnel. Some hospitaleros drop out now due to the attitude of those 'pilgrims' but I realise this is quite off topic ....

 

[JeanneClaire]

Well I'm certainly sorry to hear that people aren't appreciative of the hard work the volunteers are doing, and leaving messes, etc. And I'm hoping to become a volunteer and know there are more like me out there, so hopefully the situation gets a bit easier! So grateful to have stayed there, would like to give back.

 

[Anamiri]

On April 22nd we had 243 pilgrims.
Unfortunately the albergue in Roncesvalles has only one check-in desk, with only one scanner for the passports. The hospitaleros have asked many times for a second check-in desk, where a hospitalero can check-in also, but up till now this is not yet realised.

Mystery solved, I wondered why only one person was doing the check in.

 

[Ianinam]

what was wrong so it wouldn't meet the standards?

There were many beds in temporary buildings, placed in an area where it turned out not to be allowed. This area is an overflow area of the river so in times of heavy rain or snow it can be flooded. The government of Navarra ordered the Colegiata to close it and the buildings are removed now.

 

[Kathar1na]

I have a memory of Roncesvalles in 2004 or so, albeit not a first hand memory.

At the time I had joined several Way of Saint James forums (not this one). Although I had not even started walking and was still far away from the Pyrenees, I dreaded the crossing: At the time, there was no gîte Orisson or Borda; there were probably no taxis either; the pilgrim albergue of Roncesvalles was described as cold - cold both the room temperature and cold the welcome by the monks or clerical staff who ran it; there were about 100 beds; when this albergue (old version, not the contemporary one) was full, you simply had to walk on - no bus; no taxi. I dreaded this idea, knowing how unfit I was at the time.

Today's pilgrims don't know how comfortable and convenient things are for them in Roncesvalles!

Also, at the time in 2004, the idea that the authorities (local, regional, parish) must provide very cheap accommodation for all and sundry and everywhere at every time so that all pilgrims can pursue their project of self-actualisation was not as common as it appears to be now - perhaps it was even non-existent.

 

[Bradypus]

the pilgrim albergue of Roncesvalles was described as cold - cold both the room temperature and cold the welcome by the monks or clerical staff who ran it;

My first two stays in Roncesvalles in 1990 and 2002 were both in midsummer and I don't recall the temperature being anything out of the ordinary. On both those occasions I found the reception I received warm and friendly. Particularly in comparison with the frosty encounter I had the previous day with Madame Debril in SJPDP on the first occasion. I wonder what might have changed between 2002 and 2004 to give the place a reputation for coldness?

 

[Kathar1na]

I wonder what might have changed between 2002 and 2004 to give the place a reputation for coldness?

It is just how I remember the description. But it sure is a lasting memory . I wish I could find the forum again in a webarchive but I can’t even remember the name. Nor its main language - it was probably French or German.

I know that at the time I stilled called the place Roncevaux instead of Roncesvalles and probably did not even know yet that is was in Spain and not in France.

 

[HoosierOldLady]

In Roncesvalles we certainly have not lowered the number of beds, in fact last April we have increased the number of beds from 217 to 245 beds in total. These 245 beds were all occupied every day in the first two weeks of September (as they were in the first two weeks of May).
When somebody chooses to start in SJPdP in these two busy periods (May/September) it is indeed recommended to make reservations, as in these weeks every day hundreds of pilgrims start in SJPdP. In other periods this is not really an issue.

So as I understand it, starting in early or mid June would not be a problem for getting a bed in Roncesvalles? Thanks.

 

[Globetrottingpilgrim2010]

So as I understand it, starting in early or mid June would not be a problem for getting a bed in Roncesvalles? Thanks.

I would say that if you’re planning to walk from May THROUGH September finding a bed will be a problem. Therefore, reservations are strongly recommended.

 

[Ianinam]

So as I understand it, starting in early or mid June would not be a problem for getting a bed in Roncesvalles? Thanks.

Probably not, but I cannot give you any guarantee as of course we do not know how many people are walking (or biking) on which date ....
As it is always a bottleneck between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Pamplona I would advise you to make a reservation https://alberguederoncesvalles.com/en/book-your-bed/

 

[Former member 102963]

Don't confuse persistence with being fast. Yes, I was slow. I had to hike two hours longer to get to the same place other people did when we started out together in the Morning. That's slow

Absolutely same here for me! I’m very slow but so it in 26 days! Just very long days!

 

[Ricardo Moretti]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

When worried about availability, I would call ahead to 2 or 3 places to make sure that they had a place, what the situation was going to be like for that area so I can plan around that, make a reservation or, if I did not, then I would have a back up plan of more than one potential site to choose from. Of course, the time of year will impact the availability and the number of places open.

 

[Jagdev D.]

This is what I wrote about Roncesvalles on 22 April, when it took over an hour to check in:
The albergue in Roncesvalles was full last night and they were turning people away with no reservations. They checked in 300 pilgrims when they were expecting only half that. No one could explain the surge. One girl, the paid official, was the only one allowed to operate the check-in desk and she also had to answer the phone. The volunteer hospitaleros could only show people to their beds and commiserate.

In front of me in the queue was a friendly Italian chef, who had worked all over the world. He suddenly remembered he had a hip flask in his backpack, which reminded me I had a tiny bottle of medicinal whiskey disguised as a vitamin drink. We were able to put up with the dire conditions (cold, wet and tired) by having a little drink, to the amusement of everybody else in the queue. Of course we were unable to share because of COVID.

@Margaret Butterworth ,
I was in Roncesvalles one week after you , April 29th,(2022) it was just chaotic ,only one person was working at the check in desk, Long line outside, but…. My oh my,.. those welcoming Volunteers were nothing but super angles.. so helpful and so friendly.
I was almost in tears because my cell phone fell out of my jacket that was wrapped around my waist, about 3/4 kms before I reach the monetary , I did not know what to do.. ?
But those volunteers told me not to worry… it will turn up …….
And.
Sure enough, within half an hour my cell phone showed up and I never knew that Angel Pilgrim , could not thanked Him/Her enough , who picked up my cell on the Camino path and turned it in, and I will never forget the hug that volunteer gave me when she saw so sadness on my face.
Camino give what you need, not always what you want.
I do believe there are Angles every where on the Camino Frances .
Cheers and Buen Camino to all..
including all those good hearted , so helpful volunteers.

 

[Ianinam]

@Jagdev D. I just told some of my colleague hospitaleros about your post in this forum and one of them remembers you!

 

[Jagdev D.]

@Jagdev D. I just told some of my colleague hospitaleros about your post in this forum and one of them remembers you!

@Ianinam ,
thank you from the bottom of my heart..
please give my sincere warmest regards to that Angel..

Despite so many difficulties on the Camino , that I was able to Complete the Camino from JJPP , in my First try.

Not possible to forget the journey, for the rest of my Life.

Please, keep up the very best work you do.
God willing, will try in the future to pass through your world again, but at 72 , it is not as easy .
But,
Hope is ever eternal.
Cheers Angel !

 

[Kazibar]

I stayed at Roncevalles on the second night of my first Camino in 2015. Though the albergue is huge, it’s split up into little bays with modern beds, bathrooms etc. I felt really cared for by the fraternity running it. Thank you.

 

[Rose8]

So as I understand it, starting in early or mid June would not be a problem for getting a bed in Roncesvalles? Thanks.

I’m jumping into this thread because I am in the midst of planning my first Camino solo in March-April of 23. I may start in SJPP (I’ve read the info on the mountain crossing) or May start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona. Even with the idea of a drop in pilgrims in Roncesvalle, I see a number posts talking about reserving beds “months in advance.” My plan was to figure out my first couple nights, make reservations for them, and then try to stay a night or 2 ahead With reservation. I will be on the Camino over the Easter weekend and would definitely make reservations a few days ahead for that. Do I need to rethink my overall plan and make reservations now for the bulk of my Camino? FYI I am between the extremes of “let the Camino provide” and knowing I have a place to sleep. Thanks for your help!

 

[trecile]

Do I need to rethink my overall plan and make reservations now for the bulk of my Camino?

No. Your plan is a good one. If you book most of your Camino ahead you lock yourself in to distances that you may not want too walk (either too long or too short). You also would need to change a lot of reservations if you need to slow down or take a day off due to injury or illness.

 

[annemaried]

I’ll reiterate my concerns relating to overcrowding on the CF and pose the question as to whether it might come down to the fact that at some point in the not-too-distant future there will come into effect some sort of reservation/lottery system in order to limit the numbers of pilgrims walking (especially during certain times of the year). Any thoughts on this matter would be interesting to hear.

Can't speak to CF (as my first time will be April 2023) but limited booking for the West Coast Trail in Canada certainly preserves the experience, wilderness and crowds in the evenings. I support this kind of lottery and would gladly participate.

 

[C clearly]

I support this kind of lottery and would gladly participate

I agree that a lottery system works well for wilderness trails. But it simply wouldn't be feasible for 800 km on an interconnecting system of mixed paths and roads across Spain, through villages, towns and cities, mixing with people who are going about their daily lives.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Holy Saturday back in April, I stayed at Albergueria del Camino in Mansilla. Great place with a restaurant attached. My son met me the day before and this place turned out very good.

Wonderful place! Have stayed there twice and can recommend it to all without hesitation.

 

[JimG59]

I’m jumping into this thread because I am in the midst of planning my first Camino solo in March-April of 23. I may start in SJPP (I’ve read the info on the mountain crossing) or May start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona. Even with the idea of a drop in pilgrims in Roncesvalle, I see a number posts talking about reserving beds “months in advance.” My plan was to figure out my first couple nights, make reservations for them, and then try to stay a night or 2 ahead With reservation. I will be on the Camino over the Easter weekend and would definitely make reservations a few days ahead for that. Do I need to rethink my overall plan and make reservations now for the bulk of my Camino? FYI I am between the extremes of “let the Camino provide” and knowing I have a place to sleep. Thanks for your help!

Please do not miss the experience of walking over the Pyrenees. I have just done it and it was a highlight, if not favourite day, of my Camino.

 

[Tincatinker]

I have just done it

Ooh, I hope not. The Route Napoleon has been closed since 1 November. Unless of course you walked via Valcarlos and crossed those same Pyrenean foothills

 

[JabbaPapa]

The local rumour is that the Municipal at Mansilla de las Mulas was found to be insalubrious, and so the place is undergoing a renovation project, which is why it is closed.

 

[JabbaPapa]

And the El Jardín del Camino Albergue is being rebuilt from the ground up, so that only 1 in 3 Albergues here in Mansilla de las Mulas is open, the Gaia one - - where the Hospitaleros look completely exhausted.

It was full last night, and some pilgrims were turned away. Bed race in November !!

 

[BarbaraW]

There wasn't an albergue bed to be found in Mansilla when I was there in May, and I had to stay in the central, but poorly signed, Casa Rural El Puente. It was 40 E for single occupancy of a double and felt eerily deserted.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I’m jumping into this thread because I am in the midst of planning my first Camino solo in March-April of 23.

Answering an old post, and maybe you know all this already, but just in case:

I started a Camino last year April 6 from Pamplona, because there was snow in the Pyrenees. The route Napoleon, which is the higher elevation route ( as opposed to the Valcarlos route) is closed in March until about April 15, as I understand it ( someone correct me if I’m wrong). Edit:The closure is Nov. 1 - April 1, and then weather permitting.

You might also have problems getting bookings and Albergues because many of them don’t open until Easter. There’s a resource somewhere on this forum or online that shows which Albergue’s and hotels are open in the off season. Maybe take a look at gronze.com., also.

I think unless you’re at a busy part of the Camino over Easter, like at the beginning of the Camino France or between Sarria and Santiago, you won’t have trouble finding beds on Easter. But you’ll have a sense of how busy it is when you’re walking.

But what you probably won’t have a problem with is too many pilgrims, because usually not many people walk at that time of year. It’ll be a great quiet time to do the Camino, and in April the onset of spring is beautiful. But services are substantially less. And it could be very cold, sometimes.

 

[Renegator1]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

We have also found a crunch between Astorga and Molinaseca; Trabadelo and Triacastela. We are older and going shorter distances. Good luck out there and Buen Camino!

 

[trecile]

The route Napoleon, which is the higher elevation route ( as opposed to the Valcarlos route) is closed in March until about April 15, as I understand it ( someone correct me if I’m wrong).

The Napoleon route is closed between November 1st and April 1st, plus days before and after when the weather makes the route dangerous.

 

[AidaYYC]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

I took no chances, I started Sep 2 and planned arrival in Santiago Oct. 20th. I booked SJPP, Orisson, Espinal, Zubiri, Burgos, Leon, Astorga & Santiago way back in May. On arrival at SJPP, I was surprised at the amount of people arriving without reservations and the bottleneck continued even past Pamplona, I still had issues in Villava and Cacabelos. The solution? At 5 pm, start calling for the following day.

 

[AidaYYC]

The Napoleon route is closed between November 1st and April 1st, plus days before and after when the weather makes the route dangerous.

Not so sure the route is closed, but I do know Orisson is closed for renovations.

 

[trecile]

Not so sure the route is closed, but I do know Orisson is closed for renovations.

The route is absolutely closed November through March.

 

[AidaYYC]

And the El Jardín del Camino Albergue is being rebuilt from the ground up, so that only 1 in 3 Albergues here in Mansilla de las Mulas is open, the Gaia one - - where the Hospitaleros look completely exhausted.

It was full last night, and some pilgrims were turned away. Bed race in November !!

Try Reliegos instead ...

 

[AidaYYC]

The route is absolutely closed November through March.

Yes, during that timeframe makes sense

 

[Ianinam]

Yes, the route Napoleon is closed now from Nov. 1st until April 1st. Last April it was open for one or two days and had to close again due to knee-high snow and dangerous freezing winds on the top. Always check the availability of the Route Napoleon at the Bureau des Pèlerins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and listen carefully to the advice given by the volunteers. They are very well informed about the actual situation on the Route Napoleon.
Orisson is indeed closed for renovations at the moment, they are building an extra dormitory, so hopefully next year they have more beds available.

 

[Scott Sweeney]

I just did the Camino Frances from Sept 2 to Oct 2, 2022. The two places
where I thought there was a notable bed crunch were Roncesvalles and
Mansilla de las Mulas. In Roncevalles they have lowered the number of
available beds by over 100, perhaps due to covid. In Mansilla, the municipal
albergue is closed and I don't know what the reason is for that. That's
72 beds not available for pilgrims. When I got to Mansilla, I was all set to take
a bus into Leon for the night, but another couple got beds in Villarente so
I called up and did the same. That was another 6 km added to a long day
but made the day into Leon really short. The good part of the story is that
the Albergue San Palayo that I stayed at in Puente Villarente was really great.
Not sure if Mansilla is going to reopen their Albergue. I would have stayed the
night there and spent my money, but it wasn't open. And I'm not sure what can
be done at Roncesvalles. I would advise everyone to book a bed there in advance.
Especially if you are an old and slow walker like myself. The walk from
Roncesvalles to Burguette was easy, so you could book over there, too.

We only stayed in Roncesvalles once and herself rolled off the upper bunk and cracked her heel ( camino was over). After that we always walked on to Burguette and love the place. Beds are comfortable, cafe/bar is quiet and the food is excellent.
Upside of that story is we were back six months later and started over and completed our Camino.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Try Reliegos instead ...

I slept in Mansilla last night, and I am in bed in Reliegos right now.

The Albergue in Mansilla is full again tonight BTW.

 

[Jagdev D.]

And the El Jardín del Camino Albergue is being rebuilt from the ground up, so that only 1 in 3 Albergues here in Mansilla de las Mulas is open, the Gaia one - - where the Hospitaleros look completely exhausted.

It was full last night, and some pilgrims were turned away. Bed race in November !!

@JabbaPapa ,
I stayed at Albergue GAIA in MANSILLIA de las MULLAS in May this year. ( 2022) and it was full and crowded , still it was good place to stay for the night.
Cheers to all.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

I still had issues in Villava and Cacabelos. The solution? At 5 pm, start calling for the following day.

In Cacabelos -- most just blow through it, I suspect, but its really a charming town! -- I can recommend the Hostal Siglo XIX to all without reservation. Stayed there in 2021, and my "Single Room with Terrace' was spectacular! ,,, In pic below taken outside the Siglo XIX entrance, the lady on the right is the retired Anglican Bishop of Christchurch, NZ!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I have it on pretty good authority that the municipal in Mansilla is reopening in the spring.

 

[isawtman]

I have it on pretty good authority that the municipal in Mansilla is reopening in the spring.

That's great because otherwise the town will be missing out on a lot of money. I believe
that albergue had 70 beds, let's say they reduce it down to 50 because of Covid, etc.
Let's say those 50 people spend 20 euros each in the town for food and supplies. Well, that's
a thousand euros a night the town is missing out on. That's 30,000 euros a month the
town businesses and over 200,000 euros a season the businesses in town are not
getting. That being said, I went on to the San Pelayo Albergue in Puente Villarente
and it was great. I spend 27 euros total there for the bed and the Pilgrims Meal. Then
in the morning I spend 8 euros for breakfast at the town cafe.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

That's great because otherwise the town will be missing out on a lot of money.

I agree with you, but let's not forget that many of those businesses are paying on a mortgage, they pay taxes, utilities and also upkeep/maintenance on their properties.
The net gain however is probably still a good "chunk of change" overall.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Not all the locals look at it that way.
As it is now, several local private albergues are making a decent living during the high season. Most of these are run by big families with lots of local ties. In a town the size of Mansilla (or Fromista, or Villfranca Montes de Oca) these can amount to a small mafia of interconnecting loyalties; get a few of the boys on the town council and voila!
Albergues like the old one at Mansilla were for many years the only option in town, operated by local confraternities, and sometimes staffed by volunteers sent by HosVol. For many years Mansilla was run by a charismatic German fellow named Wolf, and/or another very charismatic lady whose name I cannot recall now. The municipality owned the property and did the infrastructure works. It was a scruffy old place that "pilgrims" nowadays would look down upon as crowded and darksome and under-plumbed, but it served its purpose for decades.
The old hospis are gone to their rewards. The albergue closed down when Covid hit, and has not reopened since. Two ladies in the street outside last Fall told me the Confraternity that ran it is aging out of existence, and there weren't any more people like Wolf around willing to take it on... and maintaining the albergue costs the taxpayers money. And the taxpayers are almost all related to the private albergue owners! Ergo...

I am not sure who's behind its reopening. I hope the news is true, the place is an oasis, and an important piece of camino history.

 

[C clearly]

That's great because otherwise the town will be missing out on a lot of money.

That's 30,000 euros a month the town businesses and over 200,000 euros a season the businesses in town are not
getting.

Assuming that the population of Mansilla is about 2000, that is a whopping 15 Euros/month/person, and it does not take into account any of the costs that must be expended to bring in that gross revenue.

It is great to have the trade and commerce so that residents and pilgrims can happily support each other. But let's not overstate the economic motivators.

 

[Kobe]

My first two stays in Roncesvalles in 1990 and 2002 were both in midsummer and I don't recall the temperature being anything out of the ordinary. On both those occasions I found the reception I received warm and friendly. Particularly in comparison with the frosty encounter I had the previous day with Madame Debril in SJPDP on the first occasion. I wonder what might have changed between 2002 and 2004 to give the place a reputation for coldness?

Upon arriving on Thursday, 9/1/2022, I had a very warm and welcoming reception from the volunteer at the monastery in Roncesvalles. My group was delayed due to a gentleman who had experienced heart issues in the Pyrenees. The volunteer escorted me to my bed/showers and then assured me that she would make certain that a late dinner would be provided. Very likely that one cannot make broad generalizations or judgements based on isolated experiences in regards to dates, individuals or locations of albergues .

 

[AidaYYC]

@JabbaPapa ,
I stayed at Albergue GAIA in MANSILLIA de las MULLAS in May this year. ( 2022) and it was full and crowded , still it was good place to stay for the night.
Cheers to all.

From Western Canada, cheers to you from a pilgrim that just finished CF in Oct. 20th. Buen Camino

 

[Roscoe]

The sense of entitlement which some people bring to the Caminos is astounding. In autumn 2016 I stayed in the recently refitted municipal albergue in Burgos. Brand new bunks, mattresses, showers, toilets and wash basins. A lift to the upper floors. The price for a bed was €5. And one young man startled the entire dorm by yelling loudly and angrily "This place is f*****g s**t!"from his upper bunk. The problem? He couldn't get a strong enough WiFi connection for real-time video chat with a friend across the Atlantic.

You have to question the motivation of some people for walking. Hopefully, he learnt something from the experience.

 

[Jagdev D.]

From Western Canada, cheers to you from a pilgrim that just finished CF in Oct. 20th. Buen Camino

@AidaYYC ,
Im so happy for you for your completing the Camino. I did it May/June this year. Most satisfying adventure/Walk in my life.
Cheers and Buen Camino to all !

 

[MichaelC]

This year 2022 in Roncesvalles:
week 33 (15-21 August) 1170 pilgrims
week 34 (22-28 August) 1326 pilgrims
week 35 (29 August - 4 Sept.) 1581 pilgrims
week 36 (5-11 Sept.) 1687 pilgrims
week 37 (12-18 Sept.) 1675 pilgrims
week 38 (19-25 sept.) 1499 pilgrims

Starting third week of August would be the best option I think, though next year can be different of course. I would certainly make a reservation in order to have a bed in Aterpea, the renovated building. This is so much more comfortable than sleeping in the Dependecia (the winter-albergue) and in the sótano (the basement).

Those numbers are amazing.

One thing to consider - starting later in September puts a pilgrim on track to arrive in Santiago in time for All Souls Day.

 

[LWK]

Not all the locals look at it that way.
As it is now, several local private albergues are making a decent living during the high season. Most of these are run by big families with lots of local ties. In a town the size of Mansilla (or Fromista, or Villfranca Montes de Oca) these can amount to a small mafia of interconnecting loyalties; get a few of the boys on the town council and voila!
Albergues like the old one at Mansilla were for many years the only option in town, operated by local confraternities, and sometimes staffed by volunteers sent by HosVol. For many years Mansilla was run by a charismatic German fellow named Wolf, and/or another very charismatic lady whose name I cannot recall now. The municipality owned the property and did the infrastructure works. It was a scruffy old place that "pilgrims" nowadays would look down upon as crowded and darksome and under-plumbed, but it served its purpose for decades.
The old hospis are gone to their rewards. The albergue closed down when Covid hit, and has not reopened since. Two ladies in the street outside last Fall told me the Confraternity that ran it is aging out of existence, and there weren't any more people like Wolf around willing to take it on... and maintaining the albergue costs the taxpayers money. And the taxpayers are almost all related to the private albergue owners! Ergo...

I am not sure who's behind its reopening. I hope the news is true, the place is an oasis, and an important piece of camino history.

her name is Laura. Please correct me if I am wrong

 

[Kanga]

Laura was the hospitalera in Mansilla when I was there in either 2001 or 2003. She was younger than me, but pretty amazing if she is still there!

 

[Roscoe]

Not up to fire codes. That could be a bunch of stuff. Could you be more specific

Why does it matter? If it's not compliant, it's not compliant. Unless you're considering carrying out the work to make it compliant?

 

[isawtman]

Why does it matter? If it's not compliant, it's not compliant. Unless you're considering carrying out the work to make it compliant?

People die in fires, that's why it matters