Round 3 - Back on the way again - Rock to Rock.

[ward4e]

Hey Everyone,


Its been a long hurtful series of years for a lot of people and Myself. So I decided a week ago I need to be alone, in constant pain, at the mercy of the weather and the road. Mostly I need to be in my head for a while and I can think of nothing better than a Camino.

I really need this walk to bring me back again. Last week I told work I need April & May off next year and to expect for me to be taking it all on annual leave.

The plan so far is;
Melbourne -> Dubai -> London
London -> Gibraltair -> Algeciras
Algeciras -> Ceuta (first sello) -> Algeciras (second sello)
Algeciras -> La Linea de la Conception -> full Sanabres
Seville -> Salamanca for a spell.

Salamanca I will decide if I will go up and join the tourists with suitcases on The French Way at Astoga ( would love to See Gaudi’s palace again) or go through Ourense and stay away from people. I umn really don’t want the noise, I want the mountain winds.

Orenese -> Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de Compostela -> Fisterra

If I have time left I will walk to Muxia and take a picture of that wonderful rock carving and then walk back to Santiago de Compostela. In the last two trips I have always been pushing it to get it done and come back home or fly out to Europe.

Essentially I would love to bookend my way with my camera. I take panoramic Black and White photo's on film. To me a photo from the lighthouse at Ceuta to the lighthouse at Gibraltar and then one at Finisterre will probably complete it for me.

Anyway this is my first post on a long thread but in any case I will see you all soon on the way...

 

[TrvlDad1]

Wow, what a great itinerary!
Buen Camino from one envious over-worked American!

 

[alipilgrim]

Sounds like a great plan! One qualification: I believe you mean to walk the Via Serrana from La Linea. The Sanabres starts well north of Salamanca.

 

[ward4e]

Wow, what a great itinerary!
Buen Camino from one envious over-worked American!

Over worked, under appreciated... Rinse wash repeat for three years in and out of lockdown here in Melbourne. Maybe you can catch a break too and get away!

 

[ward4e]

Sounds like a great plan! One qualification: I believe you mean to walk the Via Serrana from La Linea. The Sanabres starts well north of Salamanca.

Thanks for the update... is there a named route from Ceuta? Or do I just call or "Way-Warde's Way"?

 

[alipilgrim]

Thanks for the update... is there a named route from Ceuta? Or do I just call or "Way-Warde's Way"?

Well,

Thanks for the update... is there a named route from Ceuta? Or do I just call or "Way-Warde's Way"?

Well, since Ceuta is located across the Strait of Gibraltar on the Morocco-side, perhaps a Camino from there could be called the Herculean Way?

 

[ward4e]

I know I'm almost a year away from this walk but I couldn't help but train a litte now. I've taken up the Coastal walks here in Melbourne and I found one that is pretty much 13.5km one way in and 12.9 out via a slightly different route.

So far in my unfit, over weight frame and without my back pack (which is a major cheat) the trip in is 2hrs 32min and the trip out 2hrs 25min. I need to find another costal walk near home that includes a few more hills and start wearing my pack with 6-8 kg of water.

In any case I have a plan and I will start extending these light duty walks untill I can feel my legs getting stronger.

Next steps are the gym and a cross trainer during the week.

 

[ward4e]

Another step forward... Gym membership organised finally. Also I have my Passport Paperwork filled out again.

Also just on the shop and I see that Gerald Kelly has issued a 2022 guide book. Anyone own the other one by Wise Pilgrim?

 

[jungleboy]

Salamanca I will decide if I will go up and join the tourists with suitcases on The French Way at Astoga

Buen camino but the above line comes across as quite condescending. Everyone is on their own camino and experiencing it in their own way. Just because someone has their bag transported, it doesn't necessarily make them a tourist.

 

[ward4e]

I have ust on 3 months so 12 weeks to go and I can't wait... And these just arrived! Thanks to the team in the store I now have the new guide and for the first time patches...

Will be sewing them onto my pack for the walk. Next item is getting my flights from Gatwick to Gibraltar sorted and accommodation for when I arrive.

 

[ward4e]

Flights from AU finalised! I'm clear from Melbounr to Gibraltair! now to organise the Hotel & ferry to Ceuta. Why are flight times always so evily early or late form down here!

 

[ward4e]

Blinking at my callendar today I have a little over 5 weeks till I leave. I really hope my achillies is fully healed before I go. Well onto packing my bag and weights I guess.

 

[ward4e]

Well it's April 5th and I fly to Gibraltar on April 29th. Time to make my finally purchases, meds, film for the camera and test pack my bag. I'm convinced I'm not ready but looking back on the first and second Camino's I wasn't either.

Just a bit younger and able to touch my toes. Breaking in my hiking shoes is taking longer than I expected but I remember last time my boots weren't broken in untill Salamanca.

The sead of anticipation is getting to me...

 

[ward4e]

Tomorrow this begins... Just need to add cameras and film.

 

[ward4e]

At Gatwick waiting for the Gibraltar flight... I was concerned I was over weight but after carrying my bag in a cardboard box and my cameras in my day pack I think I'm pretty comfortable.

Flight is at 4 and I can hardly wait to see the Rock and the start of my Camino.

 

[ward4e]

Well I can confirm that I am a pansy and jet lag is real.

To keep myself going I walked the Rock of Gibraltar all day. This was a warm up to my Camino but more of a stress test for hard climbs on my Achilles. So far so good. I will see what the morning brings for muscle soreness and Achilles pain.

All going well I will have catch the ferry to Ceuta on Wednesday and when I get back on Thursday I will stay in Alceres and catch the first bus back. It will be quick walk to the cathedral in Linea and the official start to my Camino.

 

[ward4e]

Well today I woke up a little sore but not badly. Belittle stiff and sore from the rude awakening on the Rock. To shake it off I walked to Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol sat down filled out my Compstella and waited for a church member or clergyman. It was empty but amazing to sit there. It didn't take long before I was helped by this amazing old Spaniard who asked I I was a pilgrim and upon saying yes he got one of the clergy and did most of the interpretation for me.

Beyond grateful to them. Before I left I lit 3 candles for my recently departed and asked for a safe journey. Its more than a short stroll.

First stamp certified and now I can kick off tomorrow bright an early!

 

[ward4e]

Bit of an epic day! I am lying on my hostel bed fairly roasted and a little dehydrated. I all started so well as I left La Linea at 7:30am skipped breakfast and started walking. The climb up and out gave me a good chance to adjust my backpack. I now know I am carrying too much Weight up top and it so swigs.

The way is well marked as you leave the city, then becomes a little sparse after you leave the construction areas. be warned there are a fair number of trails just outside the city. I fell foul of walking one track untill I felt odd so I stopped and checked Mappy.cz and found out I was headed down the wrong path. It was fair sailing through the thorn scrub and foot hill out from to San Roque.

I stopped into the tourism bureau and was given a tour of the place. I was lead to the roof and was given a full view of the mornings efforts! Then I nipped around the corner and had well earned breakfast.

I stopped at the local teinda and got some more water 1.5l a soda and nabbed a small sweet cake. Excess weight is pain.

After that highlight the next 18ish km were a trial. I cooked, my sunscreen sweated off. Between rolling hills and intermittent wind I felt stuck, cooking and well overloaded. I didn't want to go back. As I climbed through the pines after the school I consulted mappy and noted a river just before the last road section. I know I can't drink it but I had just finished my 1.5l and I was running low. I was praying that I could soak my feet in the River and cool off at least.

Be warned, carry extra water and more than a small sweet cake. I had 2.5 liters and a 1/2 empty water bottle and I drank my last drop at the river. FYI the river was a little low to soak my feet but have to say I would have to cross when its actually flowing after rains!

It's not far to San Martin and by the time I saw the fountain water was all I cared about. Still do a bit.

One last thing before I go and find food. There are only 2 hostels here. The first well yeah I won't say anything bad but I couldn't get a room or a drink. Dejected, tired and more than a bit sore I am in a great room just outside the main township. See the map.

Talk soon

 

[ward4e]

Small tip while eating your tapas, listening to the chatter read the wall you may find the WiFi password just next to the family photos.

 

[ward4e]

Okay, today at Los Angeles I walked around looking for accommodation and the hostel Los Arcos was under new management and not a hostel anymore? It's okay there there is no real published guide book for this way but damn. Accommodation for this section is crazy expensive.

Cheapest so far was 30 euro.

 

[ward4e]

Photo dump... Very tired also some Vids from Ronda. I really need to post photos from El Colmenar through the gorges. Tomorrow when I'm less tired.

 

[ward4e]

Hey just remembered to do the registration for the compstella and the via Serrana isn't on the list

Any tips?

 

[ward4e]

Okay here are few images from Oliveira to Corpie! This stage was a lot of track running in 30c heat. I was so thankful for the tunnels at one point as they wind was being cooled by the rock..

Walking through the park it seems that what I thought were eagles leading my walk were griffon vultures. 200 breading pairs live in the rock faces !

 

[ward4e]

Corpie is probably on of my favourite towns so far. Yes the climb up the hill is a bit of hell in the afternoon sun but well worth it. I found a shop selling blank compstellas an gained another stamp. After trying to buy a bandana for my neck I ended up buying an umbrella! Portable shade achieved! Between my broken Spanish and his broken English I was told to talk to bar Piti for tapas at 8!

After reading the plaques and walking the town I ended back at bar piti about the band next thing I know I'm being shown concerts and events.

Great bar for snails an mixed salad. Also they are so proud of their local produce. My breakfast of toast tomato and salt tasted so much better with thier olive oil

 

[ward4e]

Today is my short stage... Corpie to Montellano. Left at 6:30am to beat the heat. After the last 6 days of climbs an falls the rolling hills were a leg burn and a welcome change. I decided on this short stage because I was a bit exhausted an feeling a little off colour.

Anyway currently sitting in hostel Bar Bobi. 40 euro gets you a complete room own bathroom and unlimited WiFi. Debating to go buy food for tomorrow or just walk to the next town and buy water along the way. Would be nice not to carry 3 liters of weight.

The plan is to be in Seville in two days. Tomorrow is from here to Utrera. The next day is from Utrera to Triana in Seville for a rest day!

I can't wait.

 

[ward4e]

So I hurt.. I arrived later than expected and missed the Cathedral but via Serrana is complete.. i have day off and then yeah.. via de Plata. Will post more pictures tomorrow.

 

[Peregrinopaul]

I was momentarily puzzled by that photo. (At first glance - no Giralda!)

 

[ward4e]

First stage of the Via de Plata complete. Were to begin. The Cathedral is a beautiful sight first thing in the pre dawn light.

It was blissfully cool as I walked from the cathedral through town across the Triana bridge. That never gets old it's really one of my favourite places.

A quick bite to eat a local cafe soon after I got to meet my first two pilgrims in 13 days of walking. I yelled "Buen Camino" while having breakfast and got a smile and a wave from the two older French guys. They ended up eating there too.

We crossed paths later on when I was applying my first coat of sunscreen. I you're ginger you will know the three coat rules for 30c. Anyway we all botched the bridge out of town and after I yelled for them to follow to get onto the river pathways I didn't see them again for the rest of the day.

Now to the brass tacks. It's hot here. Everyone is saying it's unseasonably hot. My 2-4 liters of water a day will most likely become the standard as will my 50+ sunscreen addiction. I'm currently in Peter's Albergue as the municipal Albergue in Guillena is closed. I will drop by the tourist office and ask but I you're coming through I would assume that it's going to be closed.

Peter has a very decent Albergue here and after the walk here to Guillena to then try a closed albergue. I am thankful he has a fridge with beers.

Okay nothing let to do but wait for my washing to dry on the roof top. It's strange the breeze is cool? I hope this means the hill areas on the way will be cooler too.

Talk soon

Buen Camino

 

[ward4e]

Still alive and well the stages are progressing. Currently in Zafra at the Van Gogh place. Second time staying and just as nice as I remember. Did have a fun day yesterday with a drop in guest.

 

[ward4e]

The moment you realise you haven't posted in a while you've been swept up on the way. Somehow you've been walking for 2 weeks without talking? more like 4 weeks and you have completely forgotten to update your thread... I thought I just jump in and throw down some photos from the trip so far. Will give you a proper update when I hit Salamanca today.