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Route from Lugo to Sobrado

rawsonc

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2011), Portugues & Finisterre (2012), Norte, Lebaniego, Ruta de la Reconquista, Camino Covadonga & Primitivo (2013)
Hola all,

I’ll be walking the Primitivo this year and was looking into taking the route that connects the Primitivo with the Norte from Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes (via Friol) to visit the monastery there. I have found a useful web page with route descriptions in Spanish but I was wondering if anyone had any experience of this way and could tell me if it is a difficult route to follow and if many peregrinos take this route? From what I can tell it’s marked with green arrows and there is only 12km of asphalt walking out of about 50km so splits nicely into two days. Any advice or comments would be appreciated.

Chris
 

peregrino_tom

Member
Camino(s) past & future
.
Chris
just to say that in 2011 one of our merry band followed the green arrows (which start after you cross the river bridge going out of Lugo) and he didn't have a guidebook. When we all met up again in Arzua he said the way-marking had been fine. I can't remember what happened on his first night's accommodation but it wasn't a problem. One of the German guides (Rother perhaps) details the route. Cheers, tom
 

lovingkindness

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
.
rawsonc said:
...I was wondering if anyone had any experience of this way and could tell me if it is a difficult route to follow and if many peregrinos take this route? From what I can tell it’s marked with green arrows...
Hi there,Rawsonc. In 2011 I walked from Lugo to Sobrado dos Monxes overnighting in Friohl. I had been unsuccessful in obtaining information in Lugo about a signed trail so I followed the Primitivo signs as far as a motorway then walked on asphalt for the rest of the way to Friohl. There I met others who'd followed the green arrows you mention from Lugo. They said they got lost once or twice but could hear motorway traffic most of the way to the left of the trail. When they turned towards the motorway they found the trail again. (if I remember rightly, after following the Primitivo signs out of Lugo, crossing the bridge, turning right and coming to a church, just beyond the church I saw a green arrow [on the right] and other arrows and signs to elsewhere
)

There is no albergue in Friohl. Peregrinos generally stay in the Pension/Bar across from the park and opposite the little bridge over the Rio N(?) The barman said that every summer there is a steady trickle of peregrinos hightailing it from Lugo through the woods. He gave us a photocopied map and instructions on how to continue the next day. It was a lovely walk and not difficult.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Lovingkindness
 

Attachments

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
Our guide to the Camino Primitivo gives the way out of Lugo and the turn off for the route to Sobrado de Monxes at San Lázaro on the outskirts of Lugo.

Follow the Camino signs out of Lugo. Cross the Roman bridge over the Rio Miño, turn right onto the Rúa Fermin Rivera. Follow this road along the river to the church of San Lázaro (on left behind railings - sello if open). Shortly after the church the Camino Primitivo turns left and uphill. Do not turn left, instead bear right and follow the road to Friol, Prado, Carballo and Sobrado de Monxes.

Buen Camino
 

Alan Pearce

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Aragones 2008, del Norte 2009, VdlP 2011, Ingles 2014, Camino de Madri 2015, Frances 2017
I will be there in October, beginning my walk in Lugo. Bearing in mind that I will need to obtain 2 sellos per day on the way to SdC, what are the best places in Friol to ask for these?

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
 

lovingkindness

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
.
I acquired a sello at the Ajuntamiento/Polizei?. A policeman happened by just as I did and opened things up. You might try the local Bar/Pension. There is also a Biblioteca in Friol and a Supermercado.

Cheers.
 

Alan Pearce

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Aragones 2008, del Norte 2009, VdlP 2011, Ingles 2014, Camino de Madri 2015, Frances 2017
Thank you, L.K.
 

rawsonc

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2011), Portugues & Finisterre (2012), Norte, Lebaniego, Ruta de la Reconquista, Camino Covadonga & Primitivo (2013)
Thanks for all the information, it's really helpful. I'll definately take this route when I walk the Primitivo in June and I'll keep you posted on how it goes

Chris
 

amancio

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Primit, Salvador, Portug, Arag, Ingles, VdlP, Leban-Vadin, Fisterra, Invierno, LePuy
I did that route on september 2010 and it is worth it. I would suggest you follow the road out of Lugo towards San Román. Then, at some stage, you will see a road on your right towards Santolaya or Santa Eulalia de Bóveda, which is A MUST, it is a sort of house of shrine from late Roman times or early visigothic years, with beautiful frescoes and an unbelievable environment. From there, it is only about two or three hours to Friol, on asphalt over beautiful rural landscape.

In Friol, pensión Benigno is great value, has a fabulous menu, and will give you clear indications on how to join Camino del norte a couple of miles before Sobrado. This particular part of the Lugo landscape is absolutely breathtaking, old rural landscape.

Then, the monastery in Sobrado dos Monxes is worth the detour. A fabulous place.

From there on, you can join the Francés in Arzúa, although I believe there is a detour on your right after leaving Boimorto that will bring you to Santa Irene over asphalt, I did not see the arrows for that detour, so I chose to go to Arzúa.

Definitely; do not mis Santa Eulalia de Bóveda and Sobrado dos Monxes, and buen camino!
 

Sedona2012

Bobbie Surber
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances st Jean to Santiago (Sept/Oct 2012) Finisterre Oct 2012
Part -Portugues (Oct. 2012)
Camino del Norte June-July 2013
Part of Camino Vezelay July 2013
Leon to Santiago October 2015
rawsonc said:
Thanks for all the information, it's really helpful. I'll definately take this route when I walk the Primitivo in June and I'll keep you posted on how it goes

Chris
Hi Chris,

I am walking the Norte leaving Irun May 30th. Hope to see you along the way.

Bobbie
 

rawsonc

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2011), Portugues & Finisterre (2012), Norte, Lebaniego, Ruta de la Reconquista, Camino Covadonga & Primitivo (2013)
Hiya Bobbie,

I'm leaving Irun just one day before you so chances are we will bump into each other somewhere along the way. Not so long to go now. Hope you have a good one.

Chris
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Yes, I agree with Amancio -- a short detour to Santa Eulalia de Boveda is incredible and well worth every extra step.

Just wanted to add that the detour is also easy for those who are not going to go to Sobrados, but who choose to stay put on the Primitivo and will go to San Roman, Ponte Ferreira, Melide, etc.

You will see the turn-off for Santa Eulalia on the main road that you walk on after leaving Lugo (about 12-14 kms after Lugo, I think). Santa Eulalia is about two kms to the right on a very rural road. When you are in Santa Eulalia, if you ask the people in charge, they can direct you to a path that takes you to Bacurin (where there is a romanesque church), and where you will rejoin the Primitivo. That lets you avoid backtracking.

Either way, it is definitely a great stop. Buen camino, Laurie
 

rawsonc

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2011), Portugues & Finisterre (2012), Norte, Lebaniego, Ruta de la Reconquista, Camino Covadonga & Primitivo (2013)
Well that makes things quite interesting for me. A choice of two routes to Friol. I've got a degree in Classical Studies (partly why the route through Lugo draws me in - really looking forward to walking the walls) so I'm being pulled towards the late Roman 'santuario' Santa Eulalia de Boveda rather than following the green arrows across the river out of Lugo. It does sound quite special. Decision made :D Thanks Laurie & Amancio

Chris
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
I agree witn Amanciao that the Sobrado dos Monxes monastery should not be missed.

In March 2007 I detoured there from the Camino Frances at Arzua; it was quite a day! Here is their webpage >> http://www3.planalfa.es/sobrado/. Stayed at the pilgrim albergue within the Cistercian/Trappist monastery. This complex is a Baroque masterpiece, but the dorm was a actually in a renovated stable; no other pilgrims were there and it was freezing! Earlier I wandered alone through the other structures in awe. Attended Vespers with one other 'outsider'. who was staying in the more comfortable Hospederia. The evening service was held in a splendid circular contemporary space. Walls were either painted white or natural wood. All was lit by thick, sputtering candles. The monks wearing their white robes responded in unison. It was a true privilege to share such a timeless ambiance.

Buen Camino!

Margaret Meredith
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Just a little plug for the Lugo - Santa Eulalia - Bacarin - San Roman de Retorta option (that would be staying on the Primitivo till Melide rather than detouring over to the Norte and Sobrado). From Lugo to San Roman is only 19 kms, so the extra kms and the extra time taken to make the visit to Santa Eulalia are easy to fit into the day. San Roman has two very lovely albergues up in a field (that used to be a livestock market). Very peaceful, shady, green. There is also a bar about 1/2 km earlier where you can buy some food. The next day you walk San Roman to Melide, which is where you hit the Frances and the mobs.

I have never walked from Lugo to Friol to Sobrado dos Monxes but I stayed in Sobrado dos Monxes when I walked the Norte in 2007. Yes, there was a lot of atmosphere, but I have to say that the bathrooms in that albergue were truly a health hazard. At that time the albergue was donativo, so maybe they have since instituted a charge and cleaned up the place a bit.

But I haven't walked through Friol and on to Arzua, so I can't comment on whether that scenery is nicer than the San Roman to Melide stretch, which is nice but not drop dead gorgeous IMO.

Buen camino, Laurie
 

Alan Pearce

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Aragones 2008, del Norte 2009, VdlP 2011, Ingles 2014, Camino de Madri 2015, Frances 2017
rawsonc said:
Well that makes things quite interesting for me. A choice of two routes to Friol. I've got a degree in Classical Studies (partly why the route through Lugo draws me in - really looking forward to walking the walls) so I'm being pulled towards the late Roman 'santuario' Santa Eulalia de Boveda rather than following the green arrows across the river out of Lugo. It does sound quite special. Decision made :D Thanks Laurie & Amancio

Chris
re walking the walls at Lugo. It takes just on 30 minutes to walk right around the top of the very impressive wall. I know this because I took a bus to Lugo last year and when I asked to be admitted to the albergue at 3PM I was refused entry until 8PM because I had not walked to Lugo, and the hospitalero wanted to make sure all the walkers and cyclists on the camino had beds before allocating one to me. Walking twice around the wall helped pass some of the time.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Ah, yes, the lovely hospitalero at Lugo. He is a petty tyrant! And really loves those rules -- the more ridiculous the better. Now I'm not saying that we don't need rules, but he is one of those guys who truly enjoys being able to exercise power over the little folk.
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
For anyone wanting to spend 2 nights in Lugo so as to be able to see the walls and museum, as well as visit the Cathedral, the hotel Metropol, on C Miguel Cervantes, has a special rate for pilgrims. Sellos are available too from the Cathedral offices, open 10-00 - 12.00.
 

Alan Pearce

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Aragones 2008, del Norte 2009, VdlP 2011, Ingles 2014, Camino de Madri 2015, Frances 2017
Ah Laurie, I see you have met the man. When I told him that the reason I came by bus was to act as a hospitalero at a nearby albergue, he merely became more intransigent!

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Though I don't like him at all, I think the albergue is fine. It has two floors with beds (but don't even THINK about going upstairs unless the petty tyrant has told you to), sex-segregated bathrooms, and a fairly decent drying area. Location couldn't be better, it's right inside the walls. The kitchen has absolutely nothing in it except for a chair or two, if memory serves, so don't count on cooking there.

If you'd rather avoid him, but still stay inside the walls, the Pension Alba is a stone's throw from the albergue and just fine. Nothing fancy, but I helped some peregrinos get installed there, and the family was very nice and helpful. And the place is clean as a whistle.

http://www.minube.pt/sitio-preferido/pe ... ba-a178162
 

Mailo

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy- France- SdC (1998)
San Sebastián- SdC (2014)
Leon- Oviedo (2015)
Has anyone done this this year 2015?
I tried in 2014 and got very lost- apparently there is disagreement in the municipality/ junta who have to promote the official primitivo. At the tourist information office in lugo the staff told me they were not allowed to give information on this alternative route. I decided to give it a try. Many green arrows seem to have dissapeared. After some time there were too many green as well as yellow arrows or actually arrows from all kinds of coulours of the Rainbow pointillé out in all directions and i got very lost- while there were hardly any people to be seen who i could ask for directions. In did get lost somewhere before santa eulalia and found myself in what felt like the middle of nowhere. I actually almost never get lost so this was somehow a new experience. In the end I decided to walk along side the road to Friol and finally arrived in Friol- think after more than 12 hours...I found another pilgrim in the hostal benigno there and we received indications from the staff for the route of the next day. I was totally exhausted, but we were well taken care off and had a great meal. The next day we walked together and it went very fine- didnt get lost- and the walk was beautiful. I loved arriving in Sobrado dos Monxes- the monastery and church are something special and i enjoyed going to the vespers. People warned me the way was going to be hard to find and that i would get lost- but still i loved the adventure and taking this alternative route! Has anyone taken this route recently? Would be interested to know more about experiences !
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
I tried in 2014 and got very lost- apparently there is disagreement in the municipality/ junta who have to promote the official primitivo. At the tourist information office in lugo the staff told me they were not allowed to give information on this alternative route. I decided to give it a try. Many green arrows seem to have dissapeared. After some time there were too many green as well as yellow arrows or actually arrows from all kinds of coulours of the Rainbow pointillé out in all directions and i got very lost- while there were hardly any people to be seen who i could ask for directions. In did get lost somewhere before santa eulalia and found myself in what felt like the middle of nowhere. I actually almost never get lost so this was somehow a new experience. In the end I decided to walk along side the road to Friol and finally arrived in Friol- think after more than 12 hours...I found another pilgrim in the hostal benigno there and we received indications from the staff for the route of the next day. I was totally exhausted, but we were well taken care off and had a great meal. The next day we walked together and it went very fine- didnt get lost- and the walk was beautiful. I loved arriving in Sobrado dos Monxes- the monastery and church are something special and i enjoyed going to the vespers. People warned me the way was going to be hard to find and that i would get lost- but still i loved the adventure and taking this alternative route! Has anyone taken this route recently? Would be interested to know more about experiences !
I hope this thread reactivates! I plan on walking from Oviedo starting 30th and would very much like to take this diversion and spend a night in Sobrado dos Monxes. I would really appreciate simple-ish instructions, without needing to just walk along the road.
 

lovingkindness

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
.
Hi there, @timr. I've done a google search and found this posted by a cyclist. It may be useful:
http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1859567

(Google translate)
Alternative to avoid Camino Frances is unofficial and is marked with green arrows instead of the typical yellow, and connects with the Northern Way. The first part of the route, to Friol, is spectacular and incredible trails through forests, although some final stages, before Friol, the brush busy part of the trail, but it goes well.

 
Last edited:

Pelegrin

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo June 2013
SJPP - Logroño June 2014
Ingles July2016
I tried in 2014 and got very lost- apparently there is disagreement in the municipality/ junta who have to promote the official primitivo. At the tourist information office in lugo the staff told me they were not allowed to give information on this alternative route. I decided to give it a try. Many green arrows seem to have dissapeared. After some time there were too many green as well as yellow arrows or actually arrows from all kinds of coulours of the Rainbow pointillé out in all directions and i got very lost- while there were hardly any people to be seen who i could ask for directions. In did get lost somewhere before santa eulalia and found myself in what felt like the middle of nowhere. I actually almost never get lost so this was somehow a new experience. In the end I decided to walk along side the road to Friol and finally arrived in Friol- think after more than 12 hours...I found another pilgrim in the hostal benigno there and we received indications from the staff for the route of the next day. I was totally exhausted, but we were well taken care off and had a great meal. The next day we walked together and it went very fine- didnt get lost- and the walk was beautiful. I loved arriving in Sobrado dos Monxes- the monastery and church are something special and i enjoyed going to the vespers. People warned me the way was going to be hard to find and that i would get lost- but still i loved the adventure and taking this alternative route! Has anyone taken this route recently? Would be interested to know more about experiences !
"And found myself in what a I felt like in the middle of nowhere".

That is an area very wild and unpopulated. It is not easy to find a local to ask.
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
Hi there, @timr. I've done a google search and found this posted by a cyclist. It may be useful:
http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1859567

(Google translate)
Alternative to avoid Camino Frances is unofficial and is marked with green arrows instead of the typical yellow, and connects with the Northern Way. The first part of the route, to Friol, is spectacular and incredible trails through forests, although some final stages, before Friol, the brush busy part of the trail, but it goes well.
@lovingkindness thanks that looks pretty straightforward.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Hi, Primitivo fans,

I hope to walk via Sobrado dos Monxes when I am on the Primitivo this summer. I also want to visit Santa Eulalia and stay in Ponte Ferreira's albergue with @Juanma, so I have gotten help on coming up with an alternative to the Friol option. From Ponte Ferreira to Sobrado looks very straightforward, though mainly on country roads. This would make a two day walk from Lugo to Sobrado.

Day 1 -- Lugo to Santa Eulalia to Ponte Ferreira
Day 2 -- Ponte Ferreira to Sobrado

Some more info here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/lugo-to-sobrado-not-missing-santa-eulalia.24326
 

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