LIVE from the Camino Ruta del Cister to Catalan to Ebro

[eobennett4]

Day 1 was a very special day. My friend and I hiked through the Parc Natural de la Muntanya de Montserrat. The geographic formation in this place was stunning.
Day 1
After a 50 minute drive from her house we visited the Benedictine Chapel built in the 11th century and home to the traditional Catalonia story of the Black Madonna. A strong symbol of the spirituality and unity of these people. As recently as 2017 The Catalan independence movement (Catalan: independentisme català; Spanish: independentismo catalán) is a social and political movement (with roots in Catalan nationalism) which seeks the independence of Catalonia from Spain.

We made an attempt to hike up to St Jordine, the highest point in the park. We took the wrong trail and ended up at an overlook just a short distance from the central tourist facilities. We made our way back and then took the tram up to the top at St Joan 950 meters. We had a nice walk up to St Joan. While there we ate lunch.

Then we walked back down. The scenery was stunning. With many moments of silence to consider the clouds, the colors of the blossoming rosemary, the wisps of clouds and the mysteries in the rocks. At one point we laughed as we saw the shapes of elephants and chimpanzees in the rocks.

In all it was a great walk with my dear friend.

I will begin my Camino here as this is where I gained my first stamp in my camino passport. And so it begins.

Vale!

 

[eobennett4]

Day 2
A long sleep, a breakfast and an official stamp from Mireia's childhood home. It was a very warm and welcoming visit. I'm hopeful for this friendship and the gracious gifts that God provides. One last stop at the Eglesia ď la Romantica gives a clear picture of the change in Catalonian culture since times past. A once thriving manufacturers Valley has become a subcommunity of Barcelona. The factories are ghosts and the Catalonian culture is diminishing.

I arrived in Calafell where my friend Mireia graciously offered her vacation home to me. It is my first time back here to the Costa Dorada since 2004. Lori and I came here for her birthday while we were living in Heidelberg Germany. I will stay here and continue my Camino in the morning. I am very excited. Rain is in the forecast but I feel that I am ready. It's time to prepare for an early morning start.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 3
Camino Day 3 was a real walk in the RAIN. I was soaked the minute I walked out the door. Along the way I came to many cool stops.

The first was in El Vendrell. This is the home of the internationally acclaimed cellist, Pau (Pablo) Casals. I found his memorial statue in this quaint village. I had piece of lemon cake and cafè con Leche. Took a few pictures of the placa historic dedication mural, turned on Spotify and listened to Casals on my way out. The way was filled with Vineyards.

It was rough and rocky at times but the trail was marked clearly with the traditional flechas. Another indication of correct direction was the occasional palm bushes that seemed to mark the way and fan in a resemblance of the conch shells symbolic of the way.

Another sign that I was on the right track was the door hangers I saw in Albinyana on my way to see the Ermita (Hermitage) of St Anthony of Padua.
The Vineyards are immense. The first leaves budding. I'm not sure of the varietals but my guess would be....cabs!

I did 30 km and at the end of it all I had to find a hot shower. I was soaked and cold. I'll make Santes Crues tomorrow. I called in to Rural Jorda hotel and got a room. Probably too expensive but it's the only hotel in this small village. Took a hot shower and a nap. Found my way to the local market to buy some sardines, sausage, cheese and a baguette. There were no open restaurants in this small town but there is a beautiful castle structure in the main placa overlooking the Vinyards. After sitting in the plaza for a while. I encountered two Spaniards who gave me a tour of the castle. They explained that the castle was built in the early 12th century. The local government has converted it in to their town hall. It's a very nice construction with views of the surrounding landscape.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 4
Turns out that my choice of the Catalan/Ebro route may have been a good one. Last night I learned of a young pilgrim who had to be rescued while passing over the Nepolean route. She had frostbite and hypothermia. While it rained all day here, it snowed up there in the Pyrenees. Cold!

After all the rain yesterday, it was a beautiful day to begin with. The flowers were in bloom. The vines showed their first leaves.

Passing through many small pueblas. I saw many water fountains, heard several guard dogs, walked over bridges, and enjoyed small village murals. At last I reached my first destination on this Ruta de Cister. This route is famous for having the three most beautiful monasteries in Catalonia. They form the backbone of the "Cistercian". These conclaves were chosen as royal pantheon by the Crown of Aragon. The have been inhabited continuously since 1153 AD. They are recognized as World Heritage sites. With splendid architecture, the monks, who still live here, tend to the grounds with prayer and work.The Reial Monastary de Santes Creus stands in the distance. Once inside, this medieval architecture is the perfect example of the transition from Romanesque to early Gothic.
Also found inside are the tombs of kings St. Peter the Great and James II the Just, along with the queen Blanche of Anjou. They are considered the patron protectors of the abbey. They are the only remaining tombs of the Kings and Crowns of Aragon that are intact.

Leaving the abbey, I made my way towards Montblanc. I was headed towards the Medieval Festival of St Jordi.
Along this way, I would put in over 45km. However it become clear that this was an expansive gap between Monastary as there were 17th century pilgrim dwellings and wells (cossiol). This way has much tradition in the Camino de Santiago.
I continue to follow the route until I finally catch a glimpse of Montblanc. The festival has begun and I can hear the trumpets in the distance. The banners are flying inside this walled city.

Once inside, the crowd is gathering and the energy is clearly to celebrate the arrival of Semana St. Jordi! The story of Sant Jordi is the same as the one that is known worldwide. Saint George was a hero - he saved a beautiful Princess who was about to come to a sticky end at the hands of a dragon who had been terrorising a village. There are various versions of the story, but these facts always remain the same. Sant Jordi is the Patron Saint of Catalunya, and his tale is well-known throughout the city.

The royalty is gathered and it is time to celebrate lovers and books.
Departing the festivity, I admire the walled city and had towards my night Refugio. It is a lovely evening walk. Its time to find some much needed sleep.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 5 - L'Espluga to Vallbona del Monges

I awake in L'Espluga de Francoli to some unnerving news from home. Mom fell and broke the ball of her femur in her hip. They did surgery to set a pin. She will be transferred to a skilled nursing facility to begin her recuperation. The doctors and head nurse think she will have to go into a long term skilled memory care facility. The situation is stable and my brothers have it handled. I am greatly concerned but will continue my pilgrimage.

While this might be a brownish Camino in the fall, it absolutely lush here in the spring. Fields of grain, the rivers are full, olive tree groves abound, and VINES, Vines,, vines are everywhere. The old Roman walls can barely keep it all in.

First stop today, the monastery at Poblet. It is the second of three sacred places on this Ruta del Cister. The Romanesque portal door is astonishing. King Peter IV the Ceremonious had these monastic walls built. They are in reference to the 12 walls of Jerusalem.

Afterwards make your way back down in to L'Espluga and find the impressive caves (cova) exhibit. Prehistoric petroglyphs line the walls and tell an interesting story.

Then over the mountains to the last of three monastery at Vallbona del Monges. The trails are clearly marked, washed out gorges from all the rain, and the views were impressive although the hum of massive windmills invaded the tranquility of it all as I made the pass.

At the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Vallbona the Sisters will take you in and give you a refugio. The towns people will welcome you at the nearby Cafe. A visit to their local winery isn't a bad stop either. The workers are young adults with handicaps and they will take international volunteers.

Inside of the conclave, you will hear the traditional story of the Kings of Aragon, Alfonse the Chaste and Jaume I the conquerer seeking shelter while on this route. You will also find a 13th century church holding the tomb of Violet of Hungary, wife of Jaume I and the sarcophagus of their daughter Sanca. The shield of Aragon is proudly displayed. It is a very special piece of Catalonian history.

I will rest now.

 

[J Willhaus]

Day 5 - L'Espluga to Vallbona del Monges

I awake in L'Espluga de Francoli to some unnerving news from home. Mom fell and broke the ball of her femur in her hip. They did surgery to set a pin. She will be transferred to a skilled nursing facility to begin her recuperation. The doctors and head nurse think she will have to go into a long term skilled memory care facility. The situation is stable and my brothers have it handled. I am greatly concerned but will continue my pilgrimage.

While this might be a brownish Camino in the fall, it absolutely lush here in the spring. Fields of grain, the rivers are full, olive tree groves abound, and VINES, Vines,, vines are everywhere. The old Roman walls can barely keep it all in.

First stop today, the monastery at Poblet. It is the second of three sacred places on this Ruta del Cister. The Romanesque portal door is astonishing. King Peter IV the Ceremonious had these monastic walls built. They are in reference to the 12 walls of Jerusalem.

Afterwards make your way back down in to L'Espluga and find the impressive caves (cova) exhibit. Prehistoric petroglyphs line the walls and tell an interesting story.

Then over the mountains to the last of three monastery at Vallbona del Monges. The trails are clearly marked, washed out gorges from all the rain, and the views were impressive although the hum of massive windmills invaded the tranquility of it all as I made the pass.

At the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Vallbona the Sisters will take you in and give you a refugio. The towns people will welcome you at the nearby Cafe. A visit to their local winery isn't a bad stop either. The workers are young adults with handicaps and they will take international volunteers.

Inside of the conclave, you will hear the traditional story of the Kings of Aragon, Alfonse the Chaste and Jaume I the conquerer seeking shelter while on this route. You will also find a 13th century church holding the tomb of Violet of Hungary, wife of Jaume I and the sarcophagus of their daughter Sanca. The shield of Aragon is proudly displayed. It is a very special piece of Catalonian history.

I will rest now.

So sorry about your mother's fall and prayers for her recovery.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 6- Vallbona to Arbeca 22K

It is definitely understood why this is called the Camino of tranquility.Not a pilgrim in sight.

Had a wonderful sleep solo in a large alberque dormatory. A morning mass in the Benedictine chapel was beautiful. A cafe con leche and I was on my way.

A fertile valley of wheat, alfalfa, olives almonds and vines lends the aroma of fertile soil. The cattle pens are everywhere too. Yet it remains beautiful with the Pyrenees on my right and the open plains on my left. The temperatures are cool and it makes me feel as if I could walk all day. It's a clear and organized agricultural Valley not nearly the likes of a California San Joaquin cattle country

A fairly uneventful 22 km except for the wind! I'm beaten and I will rest. It's still 30 km to Lleida so I'll tackle that tomorrow. From there I should be able to use my Bierly book pages to get accommodations.

Today, the three most interesting things I saw were a clothes washing station for pilgrims of old (Vallbona), the bishopric for the Archbishop of Tarragona and a huge birds nest . I asked a passerby "¿Qué tipo de aves son esas? He replied, "No se? but then yelled from down the path...

"Sequina!" (I THINK?)

It's a light travel day for me. I have made a resolve as many of my fellow peregrinos have suggested, whenever it is Sunday I will be sure to walk less, pray more and take a good rest.

Hasta Manaña!

 

[peregrina2000]

"Sequina!" (I THINK?)

Cigüeña — stork.

I remember that the first time I heard about the Ruta del Cister — it was in the Negreira municipal albergue (the one that has/had a pig sty next door). Several catalán pilgrims were telling a bunch of us about the route. They told us that most people walk it in a circle. It looks like a really nice short walk. I have periodically dreamed about it, but never made it there. Good website here. I have been lucky enough to visit Poblet and Santes Creus, but there would be something oh so much more wonderful about walking there. Your pictures are wonderful.

I also remember eating calçots, a leek-like vegetable grilled and dipped in a special sauce, and I think it was April so maybe you found them still on the menu.

I don’t exactly understand where you will connect with the Catalán —maybe someplace near Igualada? Or are you going to head to Montserrat and start the Catalán from there? In any event, it looks glorious! So good to have another great starting point.

Looking forward to more, thanks so much for posting this. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[eobennett4]

Ah ha! STORK. First time I've seen one in the wild. . Beautiful!

So Wikiloc has me going towards Lleida. I believe that's southwest of Igualada. Glad to send you the tracking route.

From Lleida to Pina del Ebro to join Rute del Ebro. Then, after reading from BP's and others threads, I have to make a decision in Gallur. But that's a number of days away.

In the meantime...Ultreia!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, I think I’ve found you, pretty close to Lleida already! I think you are a forum traillblazer — some of us have walked the ebro and the Catalán, but I can’t remember anyone walking the Ruta del Cister and then swinging over to the Catalán at Lleida. Sounds like a very nice route.

Ah, the decision in Gallur — I had walked the Ebro from the ocean and went up to Zaragoza. I went on the Castellano-Aragonés at Gallur, but maybe BP went more easterly to Logroño? I absolutely loved the Castellano-Aragonés through Soria — it comes out on the Francés in Burgos. So it really depends on whether you want to have more time or less time on the Francés, at least in part. Either way you are unlikely to see anyone, at least that was my experience.

And on a somber note, I am very sorry to hear about your mother’s fall. You are in a good place to sort things out and I’m sure you will do what’s right for you. My mom died about a month before I walked the Ebro, and it was exactly what I needed. Your situation is very different of course, but it sounds like you are very lucky to have siblings at home who are taking care. These solitary caminos give plenty of time to think and reflect while you walk. They really help strip away all the unnecessary noise and help you get to what matters. Wishing you a buen camino, @eobennett4, Laurie

 

[eobennett4]

Thanks, I think I’ve found you, pretty close to Lleida already! I think you are a forum traillblazer — some of us have walked the ebro and the Catalán, but I can’t remember anyone walking the Ruta del Cister and then swinging over to the Catalán at Lleida. Sounds like a very nice route.

Ah, the decision in Gallur — I had walked the Ebro from the ocean and went up to Zaragoza. I went on the Castellano-Aragonés at Gallur, but maybe BP went more easterly to Logroño? I absolutely loved the Castellano-Aragonés through Soria — it comes out on the Francés in Burgos. So it really depends on whether you want to have more time or less time on the Francés, at least in part. Either way you are unlikely to see anyone, at least that was my experience.

And on a somber note, I am very sorry to hear about your mother’s fall. You are in a good place to sort things out and I’m sure you will do what’s right for you. My mom died about a month before I walked the Ebro, and it was exactly what I needed. Your situation is very different of course, but it sounds like you are very lucky to have siblings at home who are taking care. These solitary caminos give plenty of time to think and reflect while you walk. They really help strip away all the unnecessary noise and help you get to what matters. Wishing you a buen camino, @eobennett4, Laurie

Thank you @peregrina2000. I do enjoy the solitude. As you will read tomorrow. I'm not far from companionship when I dine with the Catalonian. But I do need time to "sort things out".

Also the guide book I have is not Bierly but Christie.

 

[eobennett4]

Cigüeña — stork.

I remember that the first time I heard about the Ruta del Cister — it was in the Negreira municipal albergue (the one that has/had a pig sty next door). Several catalán pilgrims were telling a bunch of us about the route. They told us that most people walk it in a circle. It looks like a really nice short walk. I have periodically dreamed about it, but never made it there. Good website here. I have been lucky enough to visit Poblet and Santes Creus, but there would be something oh so much more wonderful about walking there. Your pictures are wonderful.

I also remember eating calçots, a leek-like vegetable grilled and dipped in a special sauce, and I think it was April so maybe you found them still on the menu.

I don’t exactly understand where you will connect with the Catalán —maybe someplace near Igualada? Or are you going to head to Montserrat and start the Catalán from there? In any event, it looks glorious! So good to have another great starting point.

Looking forward to more, thanks so much for posting this. Buen camino, Laurie

@peregrina2000 you're correct. They are pigs! Not cattle. I took a look inside one of the pens/sty. Must be because I was in the wet lowlands. But I'm out of it now. Smells good now.

 

[VNwalking]

Really enjoying you account, @eobennett4, thank you! As @peregrina2000 says, you're a bit of a trailbalzer on the Ruta del Cister. Some of us did a virtual/planning Cami Catalan last year, and it whet my appetite for this part of the world.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 7 Arbeca to Lleida 33 km total!

I'm following an old 2011 route that I found on wikiloc. I often find myself trying to divert but mostly it is very dependable.

@bp told me on a thread that you'll meet few people on this route. I'd like to consider that the Catalonian people are incredibly friendly. It's not too say they are easy to understand. Their Spanish is a unique tongue. But if you eat Patatas Bravas with the local crowd, and drink their wine, you will meet many people. Though they are not pilgrims per se, their journey is authentic. If you slow down, a poc a poc el meu amic, you will find many good people here. Yet, not a peregrino in site.

The pavement from Arbeca to Juneda was rough on the feet. Today was the 1st day I think I felt shinsplints in my right leg. The terrain I encountered just outside of Juneda (1.5km) was very nice. The trail was designed for the peregrinos and community walkers . It runs along a series of aqueducts. The 1st machine built to control this canal was complete in 1902, by which the whole valley is fed and cultivation is tremendous.

I went straight for my 1st cafe con leche upon arriving in Juneda. I ate a Quisch style pizza slice con carne and vegetales. I also had some Brisquettes with tomatoe spread. My breakfast for the morning. I talked with some old men who were meeting for their morning coffee. With the look of my backpack on my back and my sombrero on my head they knew instantly that I was a pilgrim.. They shouted "Ah Santiago!" We talked extensively about their professions. They were former teachers like me. We mapped out my pilgrimage on a napkin. We revelled over the Rute del Cister which many of them knew about.. We discussed the royal history of Aragon. And once again the catalonians were proud of their heritage.

One of the gentlemen told me that as I get closer to Lleida the Alberques will become more common as I progress towards Santiago.. He claims the infrastructure is growing post covid. They all were very excited to have a peregrino walk through their puebla.

Leaving Juneda was a beautiful morning walk along the canal on lined with beech trees. It's nice to be off the pavement again and on to the dirt path.The fish are jumping and the ducks are waddling searching for food. The church Bells were chiming. And most importantly the sun was shining! it is certainly Spring here in Catalonia.

Most of today's walk is along the aqueducts which makes for a very temperate walk. Perfect! But my leg is feeling the ache and pangs for soil rather than pavement.

As I continue on through the cultivated countryside I'm treated to a stop at the early 18th century chapel of Saint Bartholomew. The chapel was open and I went inside, the Baltaccino was adorned with a beautiful painting of the Saint. The Catalonian black Madonna was off to one side. Coming out back onto the grounds from inside, I found a much need rest from the sun in the shade of the campus arboles. The perfect place for a snack, a drink and then time to move on. I'm now into fruit lands, and I'm guessing, as there is no fruiton the branches, peaches are the main crop here.

The outskirts of Lleida leave nothing to cherish. The Last 8 km is a city walk past a bustling university campus. It's a hard walk to get through the city but the Rio Segre runs through Lleida and the massive Seu Velle castle stands tall over it.

Time to get to the farmacia for some icy hot treatment.

Vale!

 

[eobennett4]

Day 8 Lleida to Soses with some initial walk around Lleida 29 km

I had to stick around a bit this morning. I went to buy some walking sticks to ease the pressure on my right ankle and shin but decided not. I also lightened my pack a bit and sent some stuff home. I found the MRW store to package the stuff up. Lastly, I went to the turismo office and got a stamp for my passport before I toured the castle grounds and then went on my way.

A stroll through Camps Elisis on the east Bank of the river Segre took me through French style large romantic gardens developed by the town council. The park has plants and trees of many varieties. Several bridges of various architectural styles make it easy to cross over the river. I recommend walking over the Passarel-la dels Camps Elisis bridge. A look to both sides gives you a nice panorama. The walk through is pleasant.

I went to the visitor center and found lots of good information. From there I proceeded up the Rambla de Ferran towards la palaca de Saint Joan. From there are stairs up to the elevator in the Parc de Marius Torres. Go ip to 2ndfloor and be prepared for panoramic walk-around view of Lleida and the Pyrenees from atop the old Cathedral.

The city of Lleida can be traced back to some 6th century BC peoples. The people around this fertile valley led peaceful existence but then Carthanegians and Romans began to thrive. These statues are the images of Indìbil and Mandoni. They were the leaders of the resistance against these invaders.

During the middle of the 15th century the Cathedral went in to construction as Lleida gained a foothold under Catalan administration. It also become notable for being the center of learning in the Kingdom of Aragon as established by King Jaume II. The University still thrives today.


This is the last Southern bastion of Catalunya. From here we are moving in to Aragonia. On my way out of town I saw some children yelling across the way and making noises at me. I instantly knew what they were after. They were group of children school children playing a ball game and they had lost their ball into the street. I have often seen this type of behavior in my professional career , so I meandered over and they were directing me towards a ball under a car. I gathered it, gave it back to them, and told them I was a "maestro" in the United States and that I knew exactly what their body language meant.

Further on in my walk along this plush river basin, I came across a man lopping off cane. I stopped to chat and introduced myself and asked him why he was doing it. He told me his name was Ishmael and he was a refugee from Morocco. He said the pay was good and that the "cania" is used to build screens and towers for the tomatoes That the local farmers grow here in this Valley. In the end it was a nice conversation with smiles and laughter. I asked him if I could take his picture, and with reservation about it being shared on the Internet, he said OK.

Shortly after that I met my first pilgrim on this camino. His name is David from Poland. At 21 yrs. He had traveled over the last three years from Poland, into central Europe, and is now making his way towards Santiago to "find his soul". He's also in search of cigarettes. He can't find them. I told him that maybe it's time that he quit.

Davit says there are two other peregrinos in front of us. One is on bike and the other is running 50 km per day. He also says this is known as Camino Ignaciano and he shared a website to help track lodging.

Camino Ignaciano – Camino Ignaciano

caminoignaciano.org

We pushed on to Soses. Found a common factor in country music. I shared some country rap with him. Stayed at the hostal Cataluyan e Aragon. Roadside traveler stopwith truckers... but that means good cafè con Leche! We are definitely on the border of Cataluyna. Already the bar tenders Spanish is more translatable.

Tomorrow we will go past Fraga and on to Candasnos.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 9- Sorres to Candasnos

Let's go! The 21 year old wants 40km today. Well in fact this stretch should be pretty hard anyway and that might be the only way to get it done. I'm not anticipating much other than a beautiful mountain pass ahead as we rapidly walk through Fraga.

See the view from atop the pass as we leave Fraga.

However, as we passed through the city we came across a lady that had done two caminos from here. She said that the top of the pass (at about 20km in to our days walk) there would be a small bar to eat at. She was right! They call the house, Ventorrillo. (No winds today, thank God!)The Cocina was open. The lady stamped our passports. It is the first stamp that declares the Camino.
When I asked for the peregrino menu, the cocinero replied, "Buen, Bonito, Borato", he etched BBB on the counter with his finger, and he cooked the food over an open fire. QUE BONITA!

A grueling day with chaparral like conditions and high plains cultivation. But we were lucky. No wind. The clouds in the sky and the landscape seemed like still life paintings.

We found refuge finally at the only hotel that would answer. La Cruzanzana. The guide book I have suggested there were 3 possibilities but La Cruzanzana would be expensive. We passed this "carro" hotel on the way in to town. We made our way towards the small puebla looking for a pension and/or adjutamente that was listed.

As we were walking in to the puebla there was a man coming the other way. Turns out David knew him. He is a Catalan pilgrim named Manuel. He told us the only market, and all albergues and the pension were "cerrado siempre". We turned around and went back to La Cruzanzana. This would be our place for the night. They put the three of us in one room. It works.

Does anyone know what the strange mind is?

Manaña.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 10 - Candasnos to Bujaraloz 20km

Left early. Up at 5:30 with Manel and down to get cafè con Leche at 6am. Ate a little desayuno too. Then we made our way towards Peñalba. As we arrived in the small village, Manel told me about the symbol of the bull representing a village where they make a branded cognac-like licqour. Apparently these villages are everywhere in Spain.

I've noticed many abandon buildings on my camino. In talking with my Catalonia wanderer friend I've come to realize that much of the destruction in many old buildings, the abandonment of many once thriving hostales or hotels, is the recent result of this pandemic. It's sad to see this.

Once we arrived in Peñalba we stopped for the market. I bought a fresh baquette,still warm from the oven, fruit, sardines, cheese and yogurt. Manel and I sat down by the community fountain and had a meal topped of with a bit of milk chocolate.

Then we just walked. Lots of farm land. Mostly grains. It's interesting to see the old farm houses from the agrarian days. Makes me think about how far we've come in agribusiness. There are tractors, plows, bulldozers and big trucks everywhere.Spains heartland has definitely moved in to the new revolution. Surely the watering systems are driven digitally as well. It's quaint to think of an old European farming environment but those don't exist anymore as far as I can see. Only reminds of times past. Welcome to the new world.

The way was pavement almost all day after Peñalba. I don't like that. Makes my feet easy to hot. In our conversation we missed one "fletcha" and walked 2 km out of our way. That meant walking back 2km. Must have been good conversation. Just remember, "not all who wander are lost".

Made the distance to Bujarloz by 2pm. Had a cold beer, rested a bit, washed some clothes and prepackaged for tomorrow.

Anyway, we will reach Pina del Ebro tomorrow and Zaragoza's Basillica del Pillar by Sunday. Good conversation with Manel's catalan helps me to concentrate on my Spanish as he speaks no English. Again, we say..a poc a poc!

 

[eobennett4]

Day 11

There are very few services between Bujaraloz and Pina del Ebro. Even the hostal at Pina d.e. is cerrado. It's the struggle we are having and it pays to plan ahead and prepare the next days Habitación.

So, we are cutting down the near 50 km we would have to walk along a very busy carraterra (road) to our next dormitorio . We are riding the bus 20km to Ventas de Santa Lucia. Essentially eliminating any roadside walking. Funny it takes only 18 min by bus to our starting point! Plus it will ease the tension on my ankle. Good rest, elevation and a compression wrap I purchased at the farmacìa has helped.

Venta Santa Lucia. Y esta es Camino! Hay Mucha Verde en la tierra!

We enjoyed the morning walk away from the carreterra. No more noise of trucks and cars. Only the soft chirps of birds and the wind. Very nice!

We came across a northbound peregrino doing the Ignacian back towards his Basque country. Finally established the difference between Ignacian and Catalan. Both are caminos, they are nearly identical in route, but Catalan (marked in traditional yellow flechas) is towards Santiago and Ignacian (marked with red flechas) is to towards Montserrat.

We spotted many old field worker huts that more contemporarily might have been used as refugios for peregrinos. They are a beautiful breath of antiquity.
The interior stone beds, the built in fireplaces and lavabos are amazing. I especially liked the old wood doors. I feel there are spirits walking through them. Buen Camino.

We wound our way towards Pina del Ebro and finally we arrived. We stopped for water and lunch in the riverside park. It was gorgeous! We were muy tranquilo and looking for the trail as we revelled in finding the Rio Ebro at last!

We were once again greeted by Cigüeña! The Ovejas were in on the welcome too. This watershed will be our directional guide through to Zaragoza and towards Logroñio.

We walked over the bridge just north of the park. The river was running full and strong! After crossing over the Camino became very dangerous. We were walking in a very tight roadside shoulder along a busy carraterra. Then using wikiloc we arrived at the scheduled junction but NO FLECHAS! Trusting the app and our senses, we continue on through the poorly marked fields. Then, several kilometers along the railroad tracks in the heat of the day. We didn't like or understand why the route was not along the Ebro. Yet, our destination was Fuentes and we arrived at our hostel. The municipal alberque was closed. Not sure if that's for the season or until a delayed opening. We have had very little success with alberques along this way. Mostly it seems the pandemic has wiped out much of the once strong infrastructure. Or maybe I'm not asking the right questions, using the right guide book? My experienced catalonian friend thinks it's the pandemic.

Zaragoza tommorrow. Very excited. Planning a two day layover.

Salut y forzà al canut! (Cheers and Force the Chicken)

 

[SabsP]

Enjoy Zaragoza @eobennett4 .
It is a perfect town for a weekend stay.

Be aware that the albergue/ youth hostel , if you would stay there, can be quite crowded and loud with big groups.

Ibis Zaragoza Centro is a good alternative if you can share the room.

 

[Robi]

Please keep telling the story of your camino, and do enjoy Zaragoza! I'm leaving from Manresa or Montserrat in late September and am following your journey with interest.

If you're looking for a couple of food recommendations in Zaragoza, I highly recommend Tragantúa in the Plaza Santa Marta in the Casco Antiguo for a nice seafood dinner. I'm a huge fan of berberechos, and I've never been disappointed. The last time I ate there, I had a pez de San Pedro al orio that was delectable. Also, one of my favorite little cafés anywhere is the Café de Levante on calle Almagro, 4. It's pretty, nice service, and they serve simple, traditional fare.

¡Buen camino!

 

[SabsP]

@Robi ...yes! Café de Levante is indeed a gem. Old school charm!

 

[peregrina2000]

Zaragoza tommorrow. Very excited. Planning a two day layover.

Enjoy Zaragoza, it’s such a beautiful place. Forum member @Pingüigrino lives in Zaragoza and likes to get together with forum members. I was all set to do so until I got bed bugs the day before coming into Zaragoza. I had to spend most of my free time doing things like going to a laundromat and buying some spray for the pack. Next time I hope to meet @Pingüigrino.

Hoping he may see this thread before you have left Zaragoza! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[eobennett4]

Enjoy Zaragoza, it’s such a beautiful place. Forum member @Pingüigrino lives in Zaragoza and likes to get together with forum members. I was all set to do so until I got bed bugs the day before coming into Zaragoza. I had to spend most of my free time doing things like going to a laundromat and buying some spray for the pack. Next time I hope to meet @Pingüigrino.

Hoping he may see this thread before you have left Zaragoza! Buen camino, Laurie

I'll reach out if I have a phone number and I'll try to meet up using your lead as well.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 12 Fuentes del Ebro to Zaragoza

I've moved on... not only towards Zaragoza but to Cafè American doubles. My body needs it! It's a cold wind out of the NE this morning. I had TWO doubles.

Once out of Fuentes the watershed fertility of the river valley was quickly apparent. Besides a small interlude of the industrial area of El Espartal, the way was a nice introduction to the need for Greeks, Romans, Moors and Christiandom to gain a foothold in this beautiful Valley. I found it fascinating to consider that Caeser Augustus was sure to gain control of this region and name the advanced Iberian populace after himself. (CaeZAR A GOZstus).

We found the vast Los Gallachos Nature Reserve to be especially rewarding. Rich in birdlife, this area was formed by the oxbow bends in a very old river. I also learned that the headwaters are up in Fontibre below Santander. Must be an interesting region as the Spaniards are most proud of this river. Could you get there off of the Camino del Norte?

As we found our way in to El Burgo de Ebro, we passed a large papermill and the small hermitage of Nuestra Señora Zaragoza la Vieja.

Upon entering El Burgo we came across a local festival for medieval life. There was an open market that we perused. Learned that tomorrow, May 1, is Labor day in Spain. We found the mercado, bought some fruit and sat down near the market to enjoy the music and festivity.

After our stop, we pressed on to complete 21km at Cartuja Baja. We were now on the outskirts of Zaragoza. We decided to take a bus in to central urbano so we could avoid the walk through industry. We felt it was a good idea and the bus line traveled perfectly over my wikiloc route. "Despasio my friend. Remember to take a break sometimes"

Once at the hostal San Jorge, I unloaded my mochillo and went off to get an ankle brace and walking stick. I found the Decathlon store to have very nice employees. I got what I needed.

We are staying here through the weekend. We will walk again on Monday. I'm looking forward to the rest and a chance to learn more about this amazing city.

Crossing my fingers. No bedbugs yet!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'll reach out if I have a phone number and I'll try to meet up using your lead as well.

Unfortunately, like every other good Spaniard, @Pingüigrino is traveling over the May 1 puente (long weekend).

But he asked me to let all forum members know they should get in touch if they will be walking through when he’s around because he would love to meet you!

Glad you will have the chance to enjoy this city, @eobennett4. About the only thing I was able to visit was the Goya Museum, because it was so close to my hotel. The collection is nice but the setting, in a Renaissance palace, is really gorgeous. Would love to hear how you spend your day!

 

[eobennett4]

Day 13 Zaragoza

Woke this morning to attend mass in the Basilica del Pillar. 8am. If a pilgrim wants to see inside the Basilica without cost, this is the way to do it. Met a man I'll name, Peru, as that is where he is from and he never properly told me his name. We chatted about the craziness of La Liga de Futbol championships last night and the beauty of this sunny day we were embarking on. Peru and I walked inside to the chapel. After mass we toured each small chapel inside and ended with the holy chapel. Then, I said goodbye to Peru.


I strolled over the Puente de Santiago and made a loop around the river. The sun was glorious and the temp is perfect for stretching out these legs and this body. I can tell the rest-time will be valuable. The Basilica view was brilliant along the river.

Met up with my traveling compañero, Manel, for coffee at the recommended Cafe de Levante. As most of the city is shut down for May 1, we are journeying to find a barber for a fresh shave and hair cut. Then maybe take in the Seo. We agreed to have a midday meal of paella marisco at the recommended TRAGANTÚA Gran Taberna but when we arrived, as it is Mother's Day here in Spain, the place was packed and we needed a reservation. So we opted to find another paella but to no avail. I guess I'll have to wait for a more provincial serving. We settled for tapas.

We went over to the plaza del Seo, seeking a Rosary, a peregrino stamp from the Basilica, and a shell. My shell has disappeared but I have a picture of it on the front of my journal. The stamp from the Basilica is cool.

After walking around a bit and shopping for a shell in the gift stores, we stopped to visit the Goya statue and pursued some of his work using the internet. The museum was closed.

Then back to our habitacìon to gather ourselves and prepare for tomorrow. I'll leave early and Manel needs to stay a bit longer in order to mail stuff home. He needs to shed some weight. So, it may be goodbye from here or we may connect in Alagon or Gallur the next couple of days. The Camino will let us know.

Just as Saragosa let me know one last time. Time to go but can my heart beat any stronger for the love of this place? What a wonderful visit.

Hail Mary full of Grace.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 14 Zaragoza to Alagon 35km

Last night I saw a white horse in my dreams. Matamoros is leading me into battle. What will this battle be? God knows . Lead me Lord, lead me Lord. Leaving this town has me reflecting on why I came. I know there is a good reason and Santiago is the key.

During a time in the Iberian Peninsula, a land of several small Christian kingdoms and a large area of Muslim control, the battles between the Christians and Moors over territory waxed and waned. Alliances were made and broken but the Christian groups barely edged their frontier southward. According to some historians, the outnumbered and more poorly-armed Christians were especially disheartened during the battles against the Moors because the latter carried the arm of Mohammed with them into battle. What the Christian troops needed was a talisman. Not much later in that century, in the particularly difficult battle against the Moors at Clavijo, Christian troops were aided to victory when Saint James purportedly descended from the heavens, mounted on a white horse and brandishing a sword. This miraculous raculous appearance, which may well represent the first of his miracles, afforded him the name St. James the Moorslayer (Santiago Matamoros).

We woke early and decided to walk through Zarragoza along the river towards nucleos urbano community of Monzalbarba. It was a very quite morning walk as today is still a festival holiday. After a few stops for cafè we reached the Oxbow bends in the river just past the Millenium Bridge built for the 2008 World Exposition. The exposition was placed in a meander of the river Ebro. We walked past ghost like vacant parking areas along a very serene riverwalk. We turned left after the bend in the river and once again found ourselves in agrarian fields and "alquiler en el huerto comunitario"

The walk is becoming typical with its green fields, granja de cerdos, but this time I noticed cattail bushes and a swiftly flowing stream. We had the pristine Sierra del Castallanos to our right with the Torre de Candespina sitting high atop and the Ebro still in our sights, all day.

This etape through small pueblas gave a complete tour of architectural style. Mostly the mudèjar influence is present through the towers of each village.

The quiet Sobradiel has a nice rest stop park along the way and a beautiful baroque style church near the center.In all it was a perfect walking day along the Ebro.

 

[eobennett4]

Day 15 Alagon to Gallur 22km

A little lost and trying to get out of Alagon, but once the route is established, the way is clear. It rained last night so it's a little muddy. A lot of birds in the brush along this oxbow bend of the old river.

The meanderings of this river accentuate the life of this watershed. It's richness creates fields for many fruits and variations of crops that have the life of the water in them. Over the seasons and years, many times, this river has changed its course. When it abandons one direction, it leaves many cultivatable fields. This bioclimate is characteristic of river biomes. Spain is blessed to have this unique, mid hemispheric biome. In this zone you will also find many variations of fish, and other flora and fauna. It is an extremely lush surrounding. This time of year is "verde", although I imagine in the fall and summer it is pretty much dried out.

It wasn't surprising to see other peregrinos today. Still few and far between but r real walkers in my sweetening. Although it's my first Camino, the woman from Austria vouched for the peace and tranquilo of this route. She's done CF 3 times and several other routes. We were blessed to find ourselves walking in the middle of a sheep drive.

Walking through Alcala de Ebro was a special treat. If you have read The Adventures of Don Quixote, Man of La Mancha, you'll know that his squire, Sancho Panza was always requesting, for his service to the Knight Errant, that he be granted his own island to Lord over. According to researchers this place is where he would have landed! An old man sat and told me this while I had lunch with Sancho at his memorial site. The old man also explained that Alcala is the Castillian derivative of the Moorish word for castle. It was a beautiful stop considering that Is been listening to the audio book on this camino. This statue represents a very important decision that Sancho makes.

My decision is made. Here's a strong indicator that I should go camino Soriano. Listen if you have Spotify.

Certainly, Cervantes must have been writing about this village. Why else would the local people call it the Via de Cervantina? Looking back on my visit with this lovely little puebla, I can't believe how lucky I am.

The Last part of this etape is grueling. It's solid pavement for 7 km, Luceni to Gallur. Nothing special about that but the municipal alberque is a welcomed meal filled with Pilgrims from the Ignaciano and Catalan. The old railway station of the Cinco Villas, after its rehabilitation, once again welcomes the traveler offering comfort, as well as a wonderful service.

Anyone care to share some "Caracol" with me? I hear it's delicious!

 

[SabsP]

Finding your way out of Alagon is indeed not easy. Glad you found the correct path quickly.
When I was there years ago I only met one other pilgrim making my stay in the albergue in Gallur less lonely.
Enjoy tomorrow!

 

[oursonpolaire]

In 2016 I stayed at La Collina, the truck stop on the western exits, for 18euro for a spartan room (the prices were listed in pesetas), but last year I saw that it has closed down. Another sello I will treasure.

I took a drink with the padron of La Hermandad, a bar on a side street, and he taught me the Spanish words for various sorts of clouds as a posse of cats regarded us with their usual suspicion. It is a dry and dusty place, with few people wandering about, and reminded me of the Texan town in The Last Picture Show.