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Saint James astride the White Steed and the Battle of Clavijo

scruffy1

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Holy Year from Pamplona 2010, SJPP 2011, Lisbon 2012, Le Puy 2013, Vezelay (partial watch this space!) 2014; 2015 Toulouse-Puenta la Reina (Arles)
Rodger Collins writing in "Early Medieval Spain", quotes the entry on Clavijo in the "Diccionario de historia de España", edited by Germán Bleiberg which states: "to a serious historian, the existence of the Battle of Clavijo is not even a discussion topic". The appearance of Saint James on a white horse at this battle has been a subject of legend, tradition, and art for centuries, the Matamoros figure being just one. In history, the date originally associated with the battle was 834, transfered in modern times to coincide with other historical narratives to 844.
Our original narrative with Saint James first appears some 300 years after the date assigned, mid eleventh century, when suddenly saints on white horses appear in battle not only in Spain but also in soon to be Norman Sicily (Saint Jullian), as well as tenth/eleventh-century Cappadocia (Saint George)!
We now see a tradition which perhaps originated in the East - Saint George slays his satanic foe in Beirut (not Cappadocia but close enough), one which was brought to Europe by returning Crusaders. Good ideas are good everywhere.
Another thought, white horses bearing heavenly figures bent on bringing peace and restoring order first appear in our Bible, the Book of Zecharia (another man believing in his dreams), Chapter 6 and of course later, in your Bible, The Revelation of Saint John Chapter 6 as one of the riders of the apocalypse and later in Chapter 19 another appears followed by the armies of heaven dressed in white linen destroying the old and creating a new order, not so peaceably.
What should we make of all this? Saint James is the Patron Saint of Spain so enjoy the tradition, don't bother to visit Clavijo (was there in a car years ago) unless your just really enjoy dust but do seek out the Matamoros it is everywhere so look for it, and know that few things spring ex machina there is often something behind alongside or preserving our heritage.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I thought the side trip to Clavijo was worth the time and cabfare. Hardly essential, but a strange and wonderful place.

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No provocative religious discussions or statements please - we do allow some leniency for philosophical and religious musings relating to personal camino experiences, but Rule 2 is there for a good reason.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Provocative?
 
The Matamoros image is troubling for many modern Christians. You can often find gaps in the decoration of churches where one has been removed in recent years. In general I agree with that decision. But however tempting it is for our comfort I think it would be a mistake to airbrush the image and the legend completely out of our experience. Should we deal with difficult and often painful history by denying or ignoring it?
 
@scruffy1 the relevant comment is not visible to you as I deleted it before anyone could be upset.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
No provocative religious discussions or statements please - we do allow some leniency for philosophical and religious musings relating to personal camino experiences, but Rule 2 is there for a good reason.
mean_teacher.gif
 
Shalom, Scruffy! The Matamoros figure can also be found in Poland. One day this summer past as I was following the Droga Dolnośląska I stumbled upon a restoration project in Jakubów, a Sanctuary of Santiago since the tenth century. Artists were retouching and repairing the baroque ceilings in the church. To the left of the altar, floating above a renaissance gallery with gothic foundations one can see a rather strange depiction of Santiago charging over Indians. Dated 1698, it was commissioned by a local who had gone to America.

I had a delightful time with the artists. They cooked me pirogi i bigos for lunch (fried potatoe cakes and something, meat I think, mixed with cabbage)…
 

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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

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Those photos are really interesting @lovingkindness.
Thanks, Kanga. Gaja, one of the artists lent me her camera for a few hours. Jakubów drew many pilgrims in the 12th & 13th centuries. There is a healing spring in the forest and quite a collection of św Jakuba statues and scallop shells .
 
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Very Glad to see you again Lovingkindness! Poland! Do try and send us some pictures of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa, a very special place, Amber! Częstochowa, Le Puy, Rocamadour, Lourdes, Montserrat, Madrid, Zaragoza, Jerez, so many of them!
The Carpathian mountains are also especially beautiful, remote but beautiful.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Very Glad to see you again Lovingkindness! Poland!...

Greetings!! Yes, I'm still alive, which is amazing given how long I've been out 'there'.

My journey through Poland was part of a longer one. I didn't make it to Czestochowa. I went in a different direction. Perhaps another day....

After following various pilgrim trails through Slovenia, Hungary and the Czech Republic, (have you been to Szombathely, Scruffy? It's on The Amber Route. There are Roman ruins, an Isis temple and a synagogue with twin towers...), I crossed one day into Zygorzelec. From there I headed along a few droga Św Jakuba until I reached Olsztyn in the north....after which I jumped the 'ditch' to Sweden etc etc....

The Św Jakuba churches in Toruń and Olsztyn are very fine with Św Jakuba frescoes and other treasures...
 
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