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Saint James in Jerusalem (cont.!)

scruffy1

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Holy Year from Pamplona 2010, SJPP 2011, Lisbon 2012, Le Puy 2013, Vezelay (partial watch this space!) 2014; 2015 Toulouse-Puenta la Reina (Arles)
A beautiful Spring day in Jerusalem, almond trees in bloom e-v-e-r-y-w-h-e-r-e so off we went looking for more. Along the way, we popped into the Russian Orthodox Gorney Convent located in Ein Karem, the village where John the Baptist was born. Russian, Russian from the golden onion shaped domes shining in the morning sun to the Orthodox churches and their chancel screens. Icons in honor just about everyone! Peter, Paul, Archangels, Mary, hundreds more, everything in shining gold and spotlessly clean. Peter and Paul, a few other disciples but no Saint James! Luckily there was a Russian nun in attendance who spoke English. A quick inquiry and she replied of course Saint James is here. In front of the screen is a large presentation of what she names as Palestinian saints, meaning one of those recognized by the locals, mostly Latin or Greek, but not Russian. Using whatever is left of my schoolboy Greek, (believe me not much!) I could decipher the Cryllic Джеймс, under a very tiny figure. So, those searching for Saint James in Jerusalem now have the Armenian Church; the prayer kiosk located next to the golden Dome of the Rock - Qubbat As-Sakhrah - and you now have another place to visit Saint James in Jerusalem.
9327239-gorny-russian-orthodox-convent.jpg
 
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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

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Hi there, Scruffy.
I found another hint of Santiago in Jerusalem one morning, a ceramic yellow on blue camino flecha set in a pavement somewhere in the suburbs beyond Montefiore’s Windmill. I know you probably don’t want to hear another pilgrim story but... I really want to tell it. And just in case you or anyone else out there thinks I had succumbed : No, I wasn’t carted off with Jerusalem Syndrome…….

…..The day I walked into Jerusalem I skirted the St John Monestary in Ein Karem and discovered a path leading up to Mt Herzel –a trail signed in blue & white. Perhaps that’s the one you followed looking for blossoms? There, blocking the way were three young people sitting cross-legged.

The first said,
Please stop. Do not go any further. Only those with an open heart may enter Jerusalem. Do you have one?

I replied,
Well, I reckon I might. It’s taken me two years to walk here…

The next one said,
The most powerful emanation from G--d is Lovingkindess. In Hebrew we call it Hesed…
Then he elaborated.

At which point I felt suffused by a kind of mystical awe. (As many a pilgrim knows after walking for weeks and years in the sun-snow-and-rain the moments leading up to arrival are heightened). I told him, When I set off as a pilgrim I chose ‘Lovingkindness’ as a pseudonym in honour of all who’d treated me with compassion and also as a personal challenge. I can’t believe we’re having this conversation. ‘Lovingkindness’ has been been running rampant through my life and soul for years...

The third, a girl in an ankle length dress with laced-up bodice stretched out her hand,
Would you like some strawberries? Where are you staying tonight? I am leaving town for a few days. You may use my apartment near the Jaffa Gate. The key’s beneath a flowerpot by a window with wrought iron grill ….

My time in the Holy Land was all a bit like that. And Scruffy added to it by guiding me around the old city and treating me to his favourite humus. Thank you, friend.

Ein Kerem1.jpg
 
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