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San Isidoro in Leon -- Another jewel threatened

peregrina2000

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I know there's not enough money in the world to save all the incredible old art and architecture along the Camino Frances, but surely San Isidoro's pantheon would make everyone's list of "must save" places.

This article in the Diario de Leon reports on the nine year delay and the lack of funding. Apparently Caja Madrid (now Bankia) had pledged 2 million euros for the work years ago, but the crisis and the scandals have ended that. Now there is a 150,000 euro pledge of funds from the government, but that surely won't do the job.

http://www.diariodeleon.es/noticias/cultura/san-isidoro-frescos-pudren_948644.html

I know there's a lot to see and do in Leon, but IMO, a visit here is well worth it, the artifacts are amazing, and the paintings on the walls of the pantheon just awesome! Buen camino, Laurie
 
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My Spanish isn't good enough to understand much of the article, but that doesn't make me any less concerned. Of all the old treasures along the Frances, San Isidoro's basilica is the one with which I am most acquainted, it being within hobbling distance of my hostel when I was holed up in León for several days with tendinitis. I was in the basilica when it was filled to capacity when Mass was celebrated during the fiesta de las Cabezadas. I will always remember the choir singing, the beautiful organ music and, most especially, the sun peeping out intermittently from among the clouds, streaming in through the windows and filling the interior of the basilica with the most heavenly light.
 
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the Diario is getting some stick now for being alarmist. The paintings in the cloister and the church infrastructure have suffered from moisture, but they always have done, the building supposedly has no real foundation! ... Other people say now the story was a bald attempt at drawing private contributions, so the city and junta won't have to pony up.
San Isidore brings in WAY too many visitors and $$$ for anyone to let them fall down.
 
San Isodoro, that is, the church itself is often packed with worshippers, a varied and active congregation of locals, visitors and tourists as well as pilgrims, much more inviting, IMO, then the cathedral which is a Gothic bomboniere overwhelming in size, decoration, and yes clutter. San Isodoro, the church is not impressive, in order to understand one must take the tour! Every hour with a guide under and beyond the church above. The Romanesque paintwork, frescos, and detail are astonishing! Truly one of the most amazing sights along the Camino Francés. León, the city, can be quite intimidating since the last city of any size, Burgos, was passed some 180 k before. For those who may want to just be on their way - fight that urge and visit San Isodoro. Take the tour in Spanish even if you don't undersgtand a word! The paintings will inspire everyone.
There is a smallish handbook San Isidoro In Leon - Romanesque Paintwork in the Pantheon of Kings (English Edition) written by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Edilesa withgood illustrations and short descriptions wonderful for reliving and reviewing before the Camino. Available here:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/8480120371/?tag=casaivar02-20 new $20 + shipping
or here
http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Boo...rk+in+the+Pantheon+of+Kings+(English+Edition) used in excellent condition $12 including shipping
 
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the Diario is getting some stick now for being alarmist. The paintings in the cloister and the church infrastructure have suffered from moisture, but they always have done, the building supposedly has no real foundation! ... Other people say now the story was a bald attempt at drawing private contributions, so the city and junta won't have to pony up.
San Isidore brings in WAY too many visitors and $$$ for anyone to let them fall down.
The church seems to be under renovations continually, the museum and clostiers seem fine and the rest of the complex heavily and profitability used by some church/state agency?
 
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A favourite place of mine in Leon, and hopefully this article is alarmist rather than alarming.

Looking forward to being back there later this year - just a few last details to finalise. :)
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

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