San Pedro de la Nave (calling Laurie!)

[Kiwi-family]

I've been researching all to no avail with trusty google!
No bus from Zamora to anywhere near the church (although it would only be a marathon to go there and back in a day!)
No accommodation in surrounding hamlets to stay there the night then hoof it on towards Montamarta the next day (which would make some sense rather than backtracking to Zamora if on foot)
I'm not opposed to deviating from the official path and ending up in a non-guide-book location, but it's not looking particularly doable.
Or do you know some secret? I'd love to be able to get out there and even wander a bit further to the water. I even scoped out the church for a covered portico to sleep in but there would not be room for five!
Also, do you know when the church is open. It would be disappointing to walk there only to find it closed.

 

[murraydv]

I've been researching all to no avail with trusty google!
No bus from Zamora to anywhere near the church (although it would only be a marathon to go there and back in a day!)
No accommodation in surrounding hamlets to stay there the night then hoof it on towards Montamarta the next day (which would make some sense rather than backtracking to Zamora if on foot)
I'm not opposed to deviating from the official path and ending up in a non-guide-book location, but it's not looking particularly doable.
Or do you know some secret? I'd love to be able to get out there and even wander a bit further to the water. I even scoped out the church for a covered portico to sleep in but there would not be room for five!
Also, do you know when the church is open. It would be disappointing to walk there only to find it closed.

You are certainly deviating. I make it about 37 klm to to Montamarta if you started in Zamora and went to San Pedro de la Nave. I am doing 9 days walking in that region in May and will average 33 klm per day, the longest being 49. I think 37 klm is possible. You could taxi to San Pedro de la Nave and back again to Zamora overnight, although that would lose a day on the Camino. There doesn't seem to be an easy solution to your question.
Dave

 

[Hikoi]

Nga mihi ki a kotou, Kiwi Family

I was interested in a visit too. I found a blog for the Church in Spanish: http://sanpedrodelanave.blogspot.com It hasn't been updated since March of 2015, but it did mention a number of celebrations in July and August, but nothing since. I tried to find which parish it depends on to see if there was a way of finding out but haven't yet. The website does say that the church is open Viernes y sábados, de 10 a 13,30 y de 16,30 a 18,30 h.
- Domingos: de 10 a 13,30. So Friday and Saturday from 10 to 1.30 and from 4.30 to 6.30 and Sundays from 10 to 1.30. And that was from Feb the 6th - of 2015 I would imagine. I haven't rung the phone numbers to see if this is all accurate, but will do so when I am in Spain after Easter.

Patrick

 

[Hikoi]

oh, by the way I emailed the address on the blog. I haven't heard back yet.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, kiwi-family and Patrick,

I was lucky -- the hospitalero in the albergue in Zamora had a car and wanted to go out and visit it. So he drove me out and I walked back, very straightforward, a flat 21 (?) kms. That blog seems to be the most up to date. It seems that they switch from winter to summer hours at Easter, at least that was what they did last year. The spring and summer hours are better: Tuesday through Sunday from 10:30 to 13:30 and 17 to 20. Closed Mondays.

I will try calling the two phone numbers -- just tried but no answer, but I think it's lunch break now in Spain. I vaguely remember that when I was trying to arrange a visit, the priest at the church told me he would be driving out there and would take me, but the Portuguese hospitalero really wanted to go out so it was easier to just go with him. There doesn't seem to be a good way to do this on foot, unless you wanted to continue on the route to Braganca, which joins back up with the Sanabrés (or a slight alternative to the main Sanabrés) in Verín. Beautiful place, truly.

.

 

[Hikoi]

I've just had an email from the Parish Priest and he confirms your information, Peregrina2000. Great photos by the way!
La iglesia está abierta de martes a domingo de 10,30 a 13,30 por la mañana, y de 17 a 20 por la tarde. La Misa es normalmente el sábado por la tarde, pero no es todos los sábados. Por favor, dígame qué día va a pasar, y le digo si habrá Misa o no.
So the church is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10.30 to 1.30 and 5.00pm to 8.00pm. Mass is normally Saturday afternoon, but not every Saturday. He asks that you contact him for information if Mass will be on the particular Saturday you are passing through. The email address is: sanpedrodelanave@gmail.com

 

[Kiwi-family]

Hi there, Hikoi!
Thanks for that information.
Laurie's enthusiasm is infectious and I really want to go!

 

[peregrina2000]

Although the capitals inside are quite amazing, I would say that the physical setting of Santa Lucia de Trampal is more beautiful, and the exterior architecture is also more interesting, in my very untrained and unsophisticated opinion. Both are visigothic. You can easily walk, and it's a very pretty walk, from the center of Alcuescar to Santa Lucia, especially if your previous day has been from Aljucen. And Santa Lucia has a museum-like display inside the church that illustrates the monastic life from the day. I brought a picnic lunch and sat in a beautiful field near Santa Lucia and got my siesta, and then promptly at the appointed opening hour (4 pm???), the attendant arrived and I had the place to myself.

Though I'm definitely not of the opinion that if you've seen one, you've seen them all, you will get a chance to more easily see visigothic a little earlier in your Vdlp.

And then, if the stars align and some great opportunity materializes in Zamora so you can get out to San Pedro, it will be icing on the cake.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Santa Lucia is highlighted as a must-see too, thanks to your enthusiasm on another thread!! We have intentionally allowed lots of time so that we can do these little detours and spend time sketching every day.

 

[lovingkindness]

....No accommodation in surrounding hamlets to stay there the night then hoof it on towards Montamarta the next day (which would make some sense rather than backtracking to Zamora if on foot). I'm not opposed to deviating from the official path and ending up in a non-guide-book location, but it's not looking particularly doable. Or do you know some secret? I'd love to be able to get out there and even wander a bit further to the water. I even scoped out the church for a covered portico to sleep in but there would not be room for five!....

Hello Kiwi Family. 20 minutes beyond San Pedro de la Nave there is a lake. I camped out there back in July 2010. Have you considered walking from Zamora via Braganca to Ourense?

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ia-de-la-plata-along-the-way.9022/#post-55424

Cheers...

 

[peregrina2000]

Hello Kiwi Family. 20 minutes beyond San Pedro de la Nave there is a lake. I camped out there back in July 2010. Have you considered walking from Zamora via Braganca to Ourense?

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ia-de-la-plata-along-the-way.9022/#post-55424

Cheers...

This is all a crazy circle. Lovingkindness, you probaby don't remember this, but when I was preparing my Camino Sanabres, back in 2010, you were in Zamora, and you went to the tourist office to get information for me about San Pedro de la Nave. I am so glad to see you back on the forum again, many wild adventures later! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[lovingkindness]

This is all a crazy circle. Lovingkindness, you probaby don't remember this, but when I was preparing my Camino Sanabres, back in 2010, you were in Zamora, and you went to the tourist office to get information for me about San Pedro de la Nave. I am so glad to see you back on the forum again, many wild adventures later! Buen camino, Laurie

Laurie, Hello! Of course I remember. There are 20 or so romanesque churches in Zamora and it's surrounds and perched on top of most is a nido de cigüeñas. Camping along this route was pretty wild...

 

[lovingkindness]

Hello Kiwi Family. 20 minutes beyond San Pedro de la Nave there is a lake. I camped out there back in July 2010. Have you considered walking from Zamora via Braganca to Ourense?...

ps on second thoughts, Kiwi-family, I've just reread what I wrote back in 2010. This route may be problematic if signing and accommodation have not improved...hope you find a way to San Pedro de la Nave and La Hiniesta, too.

 

[lovingkindness]

.... View attachment 24402 View attachment 24403

lovely photos, Laurie

 

[Kiwi-family]

Hello Kiwi Family. 20 minutes beyond San Pedro de la Nave there is a lake. I camped out there back in July 2010. Have you considered walking from Zamora via Braganca to Ourense?

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ia-de-la-plata-along-the-way.9022/#post-55424

Cheers...

I hadn't, but then I read your thread and wanted to do it.
Then I contemplated what it would actually mean to carry tents for five people, and I wasn't so certain.
Then I thought about my youngest (who admittedly is now nine and has walked 36km in a day, but I don't think she'd manage a 14 hour day or multiple days of getting lost and adding unknown kilometers to our total) and I'm almost put off it for now.
But then I thought they might have pasteis de nata somewhere along the route and I changed my mind again.
And three castles on a hill....well that almost seals it.
But....
Time to do some research and see if there is actually a bit of accommodation along the way now or a covered porch we could bunk down in outside a church rather than carrying tents (although my internet explorations around San Pedro de la Nave do not fill me with optimism!

 

[mspath]

Why not email the local priest whose email address is given in Hikoi's post? Mention that you are a large New Zeland family who wish to visit after walking a long day. Surely he might know of someone/someplace nearby who might accommodate you.

Have you seen this parish web? Check it for further parish email addresses.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Why not email the local priest whose email address is given in Hikoi's post? Mention that you are a large New Zeland family who wish to visit after walking a long day. Surely he might know of someone/someplace nearby who might accommodate you.

Have you seen this parish web? Check it for further parish email addresses.

What a fabulous idea! I have emailed him. Actually I asked about the "roof and floor" option which the CSJ website suggests is available in Valdeperdices. If he can point us to that we would be very happy and could visit La Hiniesta on the way. In fact, we could go to La Hiniesta and finish in Valdeperdices for only 18.4km (and could do a further kilometer walk down to the water for an afternoon of splashing by the looks of the map). Then the following day, could walk to San Pedro and backtrack to Valdeperdices and on to Montamarta for another 18.8km day (or we could walk another 12.6 flat km on to Fontanillas de Castro if we wanted to)
I did not say "Large family" though, as there will only be five of us!

 

[peregrina2000]

What a fabulous idea! I have emailed him. Actually I asked about the "roof and floor" option which the CSJ website suggests is available in Valdeperdices. If he can point us to that we would be very happy and could visit La Hiniesta on the way. In fact, we could go to La Hiniesta and finish in Valdeperdices for only 18.4km (and could do a further kilometer walk down to the water for an afternoon of splashing by the looks of the map). Then the following day, could walk to San Pedro and backtrack to Valdeperdices and on to Montamarta for another 18.8km day (or we could walk another 12.6 flat km on to Fontanillas de Castro if we wanted to)
I did not say "Large family" though, as there will only be five of us!

Now that you mention it, Rachel, I do have a memory of a place in between Zamora and San Pedro where pilgrims could stay. I talked with someone connected to the facility, but I really don't have any recall of the details. He stopped me as I was walking back to Zamora to tell me I could stay there. But I don't know if this was Valdeperdices or not. Sounds like some options may be emerging!

 

[peregrina2000]

And p.s., here is a thread involving Eze, who with his wife walked from Zamora through San Pedro and then on to Bragança. They only stay in casas rurales, pensiones, etc, but maybe some of what he had to say will help you.https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/caminho-portugues-de-la-prata.8982/#post-54221

 

[Kiwi-family]

I'm enjoying this little virtual detour as it is making the upcoming journey seem a bit more real! Hopefully we'll bump into the guy you met - knowing this much is actually enough to give me confidence to walk out there and then start asking questions even if the priest doesn't reply.
I think I've pretty much decided to do this detour to San Perdo (and La Hiniesta which is another surprise I didn't know about)and hope for the best and consider this is blessing enough. We'll then sick with the standard Sanabres rather than heading off to Bragança, as appealing as that is! Did someone say something about an alternative to Verin even from the Sanabres route without getting onto the Bragança route? I thought I read that yesterday and can't find it today! I would entertain that as a possibility because you can never see too many castles!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm enjoying this little virtual detour as it is making the upcoming journey seem a bit more real! Hopefully we'll bump into the guy you met - knowing this much is actually enough to give me confidence to walk out there and then start asking questions even if the priest doesn't reply.
I think I've pretty much decided to do this detour to San Perdo (and La Hiniesta which is another surprise I didn't know about)and hope for the best and consider this is blessing enough. We'll then sick with the standard Sanabres rather than heading off to Bragança, as appealing as that is! Did someone say something about an alternative to Verin even from the Sanabres route without getting onto the Bragança route? I thought I read that yesterday and can't find it today! I would entertain that as a possibility because you can never see too many castles!

Hi, Kiwi-family. Yes there is an alternative to go via Verín as you leave A Gudiña. It also has the advantage that it goes through Allariz, which is a place I've long wanted to visit and have never been able to make it. It's one of those touristy stone towns,well maintained, and it has its own Santiago church! http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres/ciudades-pueblos/otros-destinos/allariz.html

IMO, Verín itself isn't so stunning. I've stayed in the parador outside of town near the castle (I'd estimate it's 3 km or so from town, and I assume it's on the Camino, but I'm not sure) and enjoyed a visit to the castle. Views at night from up there are really nice.

 

[lovingkindness]

...Did someone say something about an alternative to Verin even from the Sanabres route without getting onto the Bragança route? I thought I read that yesterday and can't find it today! I would entertain that as a possibility because you can never see too many castles!

Yes, there is an alternative leading off from the Via Sanabres. I can't remember exactly where it is, though. There are usually Camino brochures & booklets with stages & distances etc. available at the local tourist offices in Zamora & Galicia. I found these sufficient for the walk.

 

[Kiwi-family]

We are going to San Pedro de la Nave! And for anyone else who may wish to do this wee detour, here is the very pronto reply from the parish priest:


Dear Rachael:
There is no problem for visiting the church (now it has a good time for it: from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10,30 am to 1,30 pm, and from 5 pm to 8 pm).
And for sleeping there, in Valdeperdices, you can call before to the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) for asking for it. The phone number is: +34 980 555 761. I think they do not understand English. So you can write to me before arriving Zamora, or call me (+34 695 577 979). The place in Valdeperdices is a big hall, the old school of the village. If I am in my village these days (I live in Muelas del Pan, a nearby village), I could pick you at San Pedro de la Nave and bring you to the rectory, in Muelas, where you also can sleep (there are two guest beds, and the other two could sleep in sleeping bags on the floor). You have to tell me the day that you will come because some days of May I have to be out, so I can tell you now if it is possible that you are in Muelas.
God bless you. Best regards,
Luis Santamaría, parish priest

Of course, I do not know if he offers a bed to every pilgrim that contacts him, but certainly the Valdeperdices Town Hall information would be for the general public!

 

[Kiwi-family]

The route via Verin does not seem to be as scenic as the more northern one, so we will probably head north, and if it turns out that we are well placed to detour down to Allariz from Xunqueira, then we just might do that. Thanks for all your help.

 

[peregrina2000]

We are going to San Pedro de la Nave! And for anyone else who may wish to do this wee detour, here is the very pronto reply from the parish priest:


Dear Rachael:
There is no problem for visiting the church (now it has a good time for it: from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10,30 am to 1,30 pm, and from 5 pm to 8 pm).
And for sleeping there, in Valdeperdices, you can call before to the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) for asking for it. The phone number is: +34 980 555 761. I think they do not understand English. So you can write to me before arriving Zamora, or call me (+34 695 577 979). The place in Valdeperdices is a big hall, the old school of the village. If I am in my village these days (I live in Muelas del Pan, a nearby village), I could pick you at San Pedro de la Nave and bring you to the rectory, in Muelas, where you also can sleep (there are two guest beds, and the other two could sleep in sleeping bags on the floor). You have to tell me the day that you will come because some days of May I have to be out, so I can tell you now if it is possible that you are in Muelas.
God bless you. Best regards,
Luis Santamaría, parish priest

Of course, I do not know if he offers a bed to every pilgrim that contacts him, but certainly the Valdeperdices Town Hall information would be for the general public!

How wonderful, Rachel, I'm glad you will get to San Pedro. The priest seems to be a very kind man, and it sounds like there will be a bit of adventure attached to the visit! This is another one of the churches, like the one in Portomarin, that was moved stone by stone when the dam flooded the land the church was on. Getting to sit quietly inside a church that was built in the 7th or 8th century is just another one of the many ways we are so very fortunate to be walking the Camino.

 

[alipilgrim]

Donna Sch walked via Verin when she did the VdP, unwillingly but she abided by the sign that said it was mandatory. Other pilgrims & locals have said it's okay (at this time) to stay on the 'normal' route. I'm afraid I've no idea how to link to her thread from my iPad but it's pinned to the top and its message #67.