Santa Eulalia de Boveda in Camino Primitivo

[Juanma]

Hi everyone! In our albergue's web site we have a blog, and we've recently added an entry about Santa Eulalia de Boveda, which is a very especial church that you should not miss if you're doing the Primitivo, right between Lugo and our albergue. In the link you have all the relevant information. Hope you enjoy it!

http://www.ponteferreira.com/2015/02/primitive-way-santa-eulalia-de-boveda/?lang=en

From the entry you can link to the previous entry of the blog, with another interesting church and surroundings, quite near Santa Eulalia. Have a look too!

Have a great day everyone!,

 

[peregrina2000]

This is great information, Juanma. I took the detour the last time I walked the Primitivo and it was oh so worth it. Amazing chapel down below the church. I didn't know about the shortcut back to the camino, so I just retraced my steps, but next time I'll be sure to take the shortcut. That really makes the Lugo-Ponte Ferreira a pretty easy day, since it's essentially all flat.

The blog has all the details on walking instructions and hours of operation. I know some people last year had the misfortune to take the detour and find it closed, so pay attention to the hours listed on this blog! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[ebrandt]

Thanks for this great info! I'm looking forward to following your posts! Liz

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for this great info! I'm looking forward to following your posts! Liz

Liz, if you take this detour, let us know how it goes. Hope you don't wind up leaving Lugo on a day when it's closed, as Kiwi-family did. I my memory is right, they actually walked over to the church only to find the Cerrado sign. That would not be fun.

 

[Juanma]

Liz, if you take this detour, let us know how it goes. Hope you don't wind up leaving Lugo on a day when it's closed, as Kiwi-family did. I my memory is right, they actually walked over to the church only to find the Cerrado sign. That would not be fun.

I've heard from some pilgrims last year that even though it was a day and time when it should have been open according to the sign at the door of the guide's office, the guide was not there and they could not actually visit the monument. My guess is that the guide may take a day or some hours off when he needs to, as most days I'm sure he is there all day long during opening time and literally no one shows up to visit the monument.

If you want to make 100% sure that he'll be there, maybe ask your hotel reception in Lugo the day before to call there and make sure that he'll be there at the time of your arrival

I know what I'm saying is sad, but it is very, very likely to be true!, unfortunately...

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Juanma,
I know that some of the places I pass on my caminos have telephone numbers on the door of the church or monument (I can think of Banos de Cervatos on the Olvidado, some romanesque churches near Villasana de Mena, Santa Cristina de Lena on the Salvador, for example). I wonder if there is a phone number on the door of Santa Eulalia or if this is something the turismo might be willing to facilitate. Usually the person showing you around lives in the village, so it's a much better set up for everyone. Because what I've found is that when there's a phone number on the door and the person in charge off doing his/her own thing, they are usually willing to come open up at any time you call, so long as it's convenient for them. Whereas if they are sitting at the door of the monument for the stated hours, you can be sure that when they go home they will not come back. Seems like they would want to increase the number of visitors and that is one pretty easy way, IMO.

 

[Juanma]

Thanks, Juanma,
I know that some of the places I pass on my caminos have telephone numbers on the door of the church or monument (I can think of Banos de Cervatos on the Olvidado, some romanesque churches near Villasana de Mena, Santa Cristina de Lena on the Salvador, for example). I wonder if there is a phone number on the door of Santa Eulalia or if this is something the turismo might be willing to facilitate. Usually the person showing you around lives in the village, so it's a much better set up for everyone. Because what I've found is that when there's a phone number on the door and the person in charge off doing his/her own thing, they are usually willing to come open up at any time you call, so long as it's convenient for them. Whereas if they are sitting at the door of the monument for the stated hours, you can be sure that when they go home they will not come back. Seems like they would want to increase the number of visitors and that is one pretty easy way, IMO.

Hi peregrina2000; the phone number is written on the blog entry, including a photo of the actual sign that is currently at the door of the monument

My guess is that the guide in Santa Eulalia does NOT live in the nearby area, but comes every day from Lugo by car. I'm not sure anyway... Be sure that I'll find out next time I go there, and update the info here!

 

[peregrina2000]

Sorry, I wasn't clear, I saw the phone number on the door, but I think it's the phone number of the office, not of the caretaker him or herself. But now that you mention it, I do remember getting to the church about 10 minutes before opening time and the person did drive up, so certainly she didn't live in the village. Too bad, it seems like a way to increase the flexibility of visiting hours and also a way to give someone in the village something to do. It is a system that works very well all over the country in these slightly out of the way places, but maybe it varies region by region. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Juanma]

Sorry, I wasn't clear, I saw the phone number on the door, but I think it's the phone number of the office, not of the caretaker him or herself. But now that you mention it, I do remember getting to the church about 10 minutes before opening time and the person did drive up, so certainly she didn't live in the village. Too bad, it seems like a way to increase the flexibility of visiting hours and also a way to give someone in the village something to do. It is a system that works very well all over the country in these slightly out of the way places, but maybe it varies region by region. Buen camino, Laurie

Ups... sorry, I guess I didn't understand you. My fault!

Yes, that would be a good thing, but in this case I am nearly 100% sure it isn't done that way...

By the way, you said "she didn't live in the village", so it was a woman. When was that peregrina2000? Nowadays it is a man that is in charge of showing the monument; however, when I took the pics of the blog it was a woman, because it was last Summer and the man was on vacation, and this woman was taking his place for those days.

 

[ebrandt]

Liz, if you take this detour, let us know how it goes. Hope you don't wind up leaving Lugo on a day when it's closed, as Kiwi-family did. I my memory is right, they actually walked over to the church only to find the Cerrado sign. That would not be fun.

Will do! We are definitely planning on taking the detour. If things are going according to plan we should be leaving Lugo on a Friday or Saturday . I had some info in my guide about the church, but my details for the opening hours were a bit off, plus I had only vague directions for getting back to the Primitivo without backtracking. Juanma's info is really great! L

 

[peregrina2000]

By the way, you said "she didn't live in the village", so it was a woman. When was that peregrina2000?

Hi, Juanma, I was there in June 2011, can't believe it was that long ago. Your albergue wasn't there yet either! By the way, how's the casa rural doing? I remember he had been pre-jubilado from the Telefonica and they were struggling a bit. Good people, even if a bit overpriced. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Juanma]

I think my albergue first opened in late 2011, so you probably passed by the building being restored. Check your photos, you might have a picture...

Manolo (Casa da Ponte) is fine; he and his wife are still there, although they might retire some time soon; this year they'll be open too anyway!

 

[peregrina2000]

I think my albergue first opened in late 2011, so you probably passed by the building being restored. Check your photos, you might have a picture...

Manolo (Casa da Ponte) is fine; he and his wife are still there, although they might retire some time soon; this year they'll be open too anyway!

I stayed in what would become your albergue in 2011 when all it had to eat were microwavable meals in a machine. I hear the paella is much better. I enjoyed soaking my feet in that long trough out in front.

Can't wait to go back!

 

[Juanma]

I stayed in what would become your albergue in 2011 when all it had to eat were microwavable meals in a machine. I hear the paella is much better. I enjoyed soaking my feet in that long trough out in front.

Can't wait to go back!

Well, in 2011 this already was the albergue it is today; just with different hospitaleros in it! Was it Ramon, or Maria and Vicente the hospitaleros in charge? I believe it must have been Ramon in June 2011, as I believe that Maria and Vicente took over some time in 2012, but I am not sure...

Next time you stay you'll try our paella; hopefully you'll like it as much as everyone does!

 

[peregrina2000]

Looks like the humidity is really affecting the paintings in Santa Eulalia, I so highly recommend this detour, it just adds a few km to the Lugo - Ponte Ferreira stage.

http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/notici...manoun-monumento-uvi/0003_201602L13C12991.htm

And if you are planning to do it, you can reserve with Juanma in Ponte Ferreira and not worry about any "bed race."