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Santiago to Rome (Part 1)

Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo

domigee

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF(x4), Fisterra/Muxía(x2), VdlP, Jerusalem, VF, Walsingham,
C inglés. 2019? Via Tolosana
Buen camino!
 

Walli Walker

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances '2009', Camino Portuguese from Porto '2015', Camino Ingles from Ferrol '2015', Finisterre and Muxia '2015'. Tentatively planning Camino from Granada '2017'.
Looking forward to your (possibly infrequent) posts. Buen Camino. X
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese,Frances,Norte,Salvador/primitivo,Le puy, Inglés, CDM, Invierno, Fin/Mux, VDLP spring19
Hi Jill
Have a wonderful trip. I know you are setting out well researched and well prepared. What an experience though!! Wow.

I hope the weather smiles on you and look forward to a snippet if you do connect,

Buen Camino
Annie
 
Camino(s) past & future
2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
How long do you think it might take you?
I’ve calculated that it’s about 2800kms, so averaging about 23kms per day, it will take about 122 days, or about 18 weeks.

However, I had to book a cheap return flight (from South Africa), but I’m travelling on a UK passport, so if Brexit kicks in I thought it would be safest to stay within 90 days, in case I overstay my welcome.

I’m also thinking I might have had enough after 90 days anyway!

So I have a return flight from Marseille, and if all goes well, I’ll return to Marseille next year, same day and month, to continue with Part 2. That’s the plan anyway!
 

Camino Chris

One step forward...
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Hi Jill, I wish you a very "good way"!
When you first posted about this "rather lengthy" backwards Camino many months ago, I thought of what a self assured and confident person you must be and I was amazed. Now it is really coming to fruition. I hope you have lots of great weather overall. Are you still bringing a tent?
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
Have had 6 glorious weather days - cool but sunny. About to change tomorrow - just as I have to climb up to O'Cebreiro - minus 1C maximum 3C forecast. Didn't time that very well! Was passing about 30 peregrinos a day up to Sarria, but only 5 of us in the Xunta albergue in Sarria last night - with underfloor heating, so warm and cosy. Saw only 5 peregrinos today (via San Xil). NOTHING was open between Sarria and Triacastela, so really enjoying my late afternoon Menu del Dia at Complexo Xacobea before heading on to the Xunta albergue for the night.
 

mspath

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Jill,
Your posts are great! By the way that Complexo Xacobea has very nice large dorm rooms and great showers if you wish to stay the night.

Godspeed, Buen Camino and,
as always, Ultreia!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
Thanks Margaret! Yes, I have stayed in their albergue 3 times already, so thought I'd go to the Xunta this time ;) just for a change :D
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
OK, I confess. Didn't make it to the Xunta albergue but did a sharp right into the Complexo albergue instead :rolleyes:. For 10 euros I have clean sheets and blankets, and being the last to arrive I have my own dorm :D. Just 4 others in the other 8-bed dorm on this floor. And a hairdryer so I could wash my hair. I am a happy peregrina tonight.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
There must have been 30+ peregrinos in the O'Cebreiro albergue last night. Where did they all come from??! Mostly young Spaniards. I counted 12 peregrinos on the way up to O'Cebreiro yesterday, and only 11 on the way down today. So glad to have left Galicia behind. Every village and farmyard has at least 2 big loose dogs, and I know they are not dangerous, but I am still a nervous wreck getting past them. One big soppy labrador followed me yesterday. He refused to go back. On the main road I had to frantically wave the cars to slow down as he insisted on walking in the middle. He finally turned around when he saw the big loose dogs in the next village . . . I am now in Trabadelo. I intended going further, but it has rained all day and when I saw a brand new hotel (Nova Ruta) I wondered if they might be undercutting everyone else in the area to get established, so went in and asked their prices. Have a nice ensuite room for 30 euros, and a good menu del dia for 11 euros.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
So far so good. I am through Leon. And Burgos. Some memorable moments:

Nice to see the crepe lady is still alive and kicking in Fonfria.

Late afternoon all alone at the Iron Cross . . . until a car drove up, a man got out leaving the car radio on full blast. He walked around a bit, yelled "Buen Camino" to me (I waved back) and off he sped . . . leaving me alone in the silence again.

Being grilled by another peregrino at Monte Irago in Foncebadon. Where was I from? Where did I walk from today? Why am I walking backwards? How old am I? And that was before I could get my boots off.

Sitting for a long time in the Garden of Remembrance.

Then arriving very late at the albergue in Astorga as I got sidetracked into a really cool blues bar on my way through town :oops:

Enjoying a long chat with Italian Lucca who has taken over from David at the Cantina.

A lovely evening and dinner with Christine at the Vilares de Orbigo albergue.

Watching 2 peregrinos swimming in the river at Villarente - in February!

An evening at the Elvis Bar in Reliegos with a big group of Spanish peregrinos.

A REAL cafe con leche - a huge mugful - when I needed it most on a very cold and frosty morning in San Nicolas del Real Camino.

Walking parallel for 2 days with a very young couple, also walking in reverse, who were very much in love, and wild camping (in winter!).

I hate mixed ablutions especially when the shower stalls are so tiny it is physically impossible to get dressed in them. So I get back from the bar at 9pm, grab my toothbrush, open the ablutions door, and get the full monty from a startled late arrival peregrino. Retreat to my bunk and only when I am sure all 5 men are tucked up in bed with their faces in their phones do I attempt to go and brush my teeth again.

A stunning sunrise next morning leaving Calzadilla de la Cueza for the long walk to Carrion de los Condes.

A great meal, great company, and great pod beds at La Finca in Poblacion de Campos.

Jill
 

Camino Chris

One step forward...
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I loved your report, Jill! Great little tidbits, concisely written! I think my favorite snippet was hearing about your huge mug of Real cafe con leche, yum, I love it too!...Second was the laugh I got by envisioning your surprise at finding the full monty dude in the shower stall! 😛
 
Camino(s) past & future
Portugués, Francés, Le Puy, Rota Vicentina, Soulac, Norte, Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo
A camino buddy joined me in Puente la Reina and has walked the Camino Aragones with me. After a month solo it has been great to have the company.

It has been a little bit difficult going backwards but MapsMe has been there for us, so we could get back on track when we went wrong.

Today we walked over the Somport Pass. The scenery is breathtaking. We have been so lucky with the weather. It snowed when we got to Canfranc Estacion and had to stay 2 nights but today the weather was glorious and we stayed on the road.

Tonight we are in the gite at Urdos. Really nice.
Jill
 

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