Santiago traditions?

[Felice]

I have not been to Santiago since before covid, and something that was mentioned to me recently, made me wonder how many of the traditional rituals are still able to be performed. So -

I know that you can no longer take your rucksack inside the cathedral.

I know that you can no longer put your fist in the root of the Tree of Jesse in the entrance. That stopped sometime ago.

But - do you have to enter by the side doors or can you still enter by the doors at the front, that face onto the square? Or is it only possible to see the entrance if you pay to take a tour?

And - can you still go up and hug the back of the giant gold statue of St James?

And - can you still kneel in front of the tomb of the Apostle?

 

[Bradypus]

You have to enter the cathedral by a side door - the main west doors facing the Obradoiro are closed and access to the Portico da Gloria is only for tour groups.

Back in January you could not hug the Apostle and the doors leading up to him were closed. It may be possible now - perhaps a more recent visitor can say?

You can still kneel in front of the Apostle's reliquary.

 

[CarolamS]

I was there a week ago. You enter by the side door. I believe you can pay to see the area by the Tree of Jesse but you cannot touch it. You cannot hug the Saint but you can still kneel in front of his tomb. Sometimes there are huge queues to see the tomb; I came back in the early evening and it was quieter then.

 

[Felice]

Thank you for these clarifications.
What i read this morning was about 'walking past the tomb'. I assume that if there is a huge queue, then there is a huge disincentive to stop and kneel and pray, even for a few moments.

In 2014, I reached Santiago at the end of my first camino, and hugging the Saint and kneeling before his tomb, were essential rituals to complete my pilgrimage.

There is something very powerful about the ability to touch. When I walked to Montserrat, I touched the orb in the Virgin's hand - it reminded me of hugging the Saint.

Any suggestions for a ritual to replace what has been taken away?

 

[CarolamS]

I attended Mass and was lucky to witness the Botafumeiro. Other than that I did sit quietly at the far end of the Plaza do Obradoiro, watching pilgrims arrive, admiring the Cathedral and just taking time for reflection. The Cathedral has undergone a lot of cleaning and restoration since 2014. Be prepared that it is very busy.

 

[Caomhin O Fearghaill]

I was in Santiago last month (April 23). The only traditional ritual available was a visit to the tomb.

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

I recommend attending the mass offered in the side-chapel at the Pilgrim office. For English speakers it is offered every morning at 10:30. For English speaking pilfgrims, the usual celebrant is Fr. Manny (though he's on a camino of his own right now with a group of Catholic pilgrims, so I think current visitors will have his temporary replacement until about mid June). Regardless, I think a great amount of care goes into how mass is delivered in that setting.
Bless the priests in the Cathedral for enduring the refusal of the gawkers to put away their cameras and phones to respect the intimate and private nature of mass... but I myself cannot endure it. So thankful that on my recently completed pilgrimage I had the deep privilege and joy of attending the choral mass at Lugo Cathedral. You might look for the same sort of opportunity along your way this time -- even if it is not an "end point", it will still provide ritual along the way.

 

[Felice]

As a non Catholic, the incredibly ritual of receiving communion is not open to me, which is probably why the other rituals of the camino are so important to me. The pilgrims blessing is no substitute as far as I'm concerned.

 

[Saint Mike II]

As a non Catholic, the incredibly ritual of receiving communion is not open to me, which is probably why the other rituals of the camino are so important to me. The pilgrims blessing is no substitute as far as I'm concerned.

Up until 5 or 8 years ago the Dean and Bishop of the Cathedral turned a blind eye to pilgrims who whilst Christians were not Catholic receiving communion. When I was there in 2017 an announcement was made about certain beliefs during the Mass, the principal ones were that the bread and wine were turned into the Body and Blood of Christ during the Mass. You had to believe in this facet to be permitted to receive communion. As far as I can remember no one asked each pilgrim if they believed. So I guess what I am saying is - its up to you and your belief in Christ. Buen Camino.

 

[andonius]

Well, surely it's not a Camino Tradition, but a nice ending to your pilgrimage may be to attend one of the daily performances that "La Tuna de Santiago" gives every night around 22:00 23:00 in the arches of the Plaza del Obradoiro, just in front of the main gate of the Cathedral.
"La Tuna" is a popular and traditional band of students of the different universities in Spain. They dress in traditional clothes, all black and with big capes adorned with colourful badges (suposedly one for each love they have left behind...); and play and dance traditional student songs with guitars, bagpipes and tambourines.
It's absolutely free even if they will ask you just for a voluntary tip to them during the performance.
In my oppinion it's really magic to attend the performance for a while , as you seat in the flooor of the plaza by night watching the illuminated facade of the Cathedral.

 

[fransw]

I reached Santiago in September 2012, my last stage was from Lavacolla, and at that time pilgrims could enter the cathedral through the main West door. I was able to attend the pilgrims Mass with the Botafumeiro ceremony. I could also hug the Apostle. At that time the cathedral was not so overcrowded.
Nevertheless I have always felt a deep regret I could not kneel at the Tree of Jesse and put my hand in the root of it. I found this gesture, at arrival, hugely symbolic of accomplishment! Pitty.

 

[Dojo]

Yes, definitely stay up late and go see "La Tuna".

 

[CarolamS]

You might also find it beneficial to visit Pilgrim House Take a look at their website to see what they offer. I guarantee you'll be warmly received.

 

[Felice]

Nevertheless I have always felt a deep regret I could not kneel at the Tree of Jesse and put my hand in the root of it. I found this gesture, at arrival, hugely symbolic of accomplishment! Pitty.

As I get older, I find symbolism, metaphor and ritual get more and more important and meaningful. I used to get impatient with them when I was younger!

 

[natefaith]

If you’re interested in a liturgical service, there is also an Anglican service, in English, on Sundays at 12:30 at Santa Susana church in Alameda Park. Mother Anna (from the US but now living in Santiago) is a wonderful shepherd!

 

[Felice]

Your comments and suggestions are all very kind and well meaning, but none of them come close to making up for the disappointment of not being able to hug the Saint again (as I fear it will never be reallowed).
I was overwhelmed with emotion in 2014 when it was my turn to stand behind the Saint. I had with me a silk shawl that I had bought from the main covered souk in Aleppo about a decade earlier and carried with me the entire journey. I put it over the Saints shoulders and, tears streaming down my cheeks, I prayed for the Christians of Syria.

 

[lovelyshell]

You have to enter the cathedral by a side door - the main west doors facing the Obradoiro are closed and access to the Portico da Gloria is only for tour groups.

Back in January you could not hug the Apostle and the doors leading up to him were closed. It may be possible now - perhaps a more recent visitor can say?

You can still kneel in front of the Apostle's reliquary.

They were closed in April too. Which was a disappointment because I love chugging him after my first Camino.

 

[dbier]

Perhaps a roof tour might help you close the chapter...if those are still permitted.

It is no comfort to you, but shared regret, that I don't think any pilgrim since Covid has been able to ascend to the statue of the Apostle. We weren't.

While I cannot say with authority what the Cathedral will do, given the amount of protection they've already put in to preserve the Portico and the Tree, I would not expect them to "re-open " the statue to wear and tear.

 

[Tincatinker]

You can still pay some respect to those bones. Just don’t try and do it while every coach party, organized tour and everybody else but poor Lot’s wife is trying to do the same thing.

Those bones are there 24/7/365(6)

 

[David Tallan]

Thank you for these clarifications.
What i read this morning was about 'walking past the tomb'. I assume that if there is a huge queue, then there is a huge disincentive to stop and kneel and pray, even for a few moments.

In 2014, I reached Santiago at the end of my first camino, and hugging the Saint and kneeling before his tomb, were essential rituals to complete my pilgrimage.

There is something very powerful about the ability to touch. When I walked to Montserrat, I touched the orb in the Virgin's hand - it reminded me of hugging the Saint.

Any suggestions for a ritual to replace what has been taken away?

I agree with you about the impact of tactile ritual. The impact of placing one's hand on the Tree of Jesse into the grooves worn by countless pilgrims before is unforgettable and cannot be replaced. I lament its passing and that I could not share it with my son (despite understanding that those grooves are precisely why it is now forbidden).

I am not aware of any new tactile rituals to replace what is no longer available. Perhaps you can start your own. There is a paving stone in the Plaza Obradoiro that marks the Camino de Santiago. Physically connecting with the stone upon arrival in the square could be a ritual. Or touching the Holy Door of the Cathedral that is only opened in Jubilee years. I believe that is still accessible. Maybe folks here could brainstorm something else.

 

[Kathar1na]

I know that it is no consolation but tactile pilgrim rituals come and go at the Cathedral of Santiago.

Below is the link to an interesting article about the imposition of your hand on a column of the Portico de la Gloria, including when this ritual presumably started and when it became popular and why. During the centuries, pilgrims touched other items such as a staff that is now gone or performed other tactile rituals such as removing a kind of crown or hat from the statue of Santiago and putting it on their own head.

Also, as far as I remember, access to the crypt and the former tomb under the altar was not granted to pilgrims during the Middle Ages, and later and for several hundreds years, it was of course not even known where the tomb was until the archaeological dig in the 19th century discovered a tomb with the remains of three persons, believed to be those of the apostle and two companions. As far as I know, access to this area with the silver reliquary on display has always been allowed in recent decades, even during the Covid years and during the recent renovation works. No touching of course because you are separated by barriers (and even glass???) from the reliquary.

¿Cómo se originaron las cinco yemas esculpidas en el parteluz del Pórtico?

Tras la impresionante restauración que logró recuperar la originalidad del Pórtico de la Gloria, unos trabajos que duraron más de diez años, se han pe...

www.elcorreogallego.es

 

[BennyB]

I agree with you about the impact of tactile ritual. The impact of placing one's hand on the Tree of Jesse into the grooves worn by countless pilgrims before is unforgettable and cannot be replaced. I lament its passing and that I could not share it with my son (despite understanding that those grooves are precisely why it is now forbidden).

I am not aware of any new tactile rituals to replace what is no longer available. Perhaps you can start your own. There is a paving stone in the Plaza Obradoiro that marks the Camino de Santiago. Physically connecting with the stone upon arrival in the square could be a ritual. Or touching the Holy Door of the Cathedral that is only opened in Jubilee years. I believe that is still accessible. Maybe folks here could brainstorm something else.

Kneeling and praying at the Holy Door was special. No one prevented me nor interrupted me. Several followed my example. It was a blessing.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Thank you for these clarifications.
What i read this morning was about 'walking past the tomb'. I assume that if there is a huge queue, then there is a huge disincentive to stop and kneel and pray, even for a few moments.

What I found late last year is that people in the queue were generally respectful of those wishing this devotion.

Some "tourists" in the queue might be unhappy about it, but you cannot let them dictate their own prejudice onto your prayerful devotions.

 

[Bradypus]

According to a recent Facebook post from FICS the new Archbishop of Santiago has stated his intention to work to restore the practice of hugging the statue of the Apostle.

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid024RbbR93CW1yWUiEauCxxcXf2g9mJM32QFs7SZYoWWnGbTo4uucrE5CLdAiRUrViAl&id=100066718279532

 

[Felice]

According to a recent Facebook post from FICS the new Archbishop of Santiago has stated his intention to work to restore the practice of hugging the statue of the Apostle.

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid024RbbR93CW1yWUiEauCxxcXf2g9mJM32QFs7SZYoWWnGbTo4uucrE5CLdAiRUrViAl&id=100066718279532

That is very encouraging.

 

[Bradypus]

La Voz de Galicia is reporting that the archdiocese plan to reinstate the opportunity to hug the image of the Apostle "shortly" and will rearrange access to that part of the cathedral.

La catedral de Santiago confirma que recuperará «en breve» el abrazo al Apóstol y contempla abrir más puertas de acceso

Doce albergues del Camino Francés no admitirán maletas a partir de 12 de junio para «preservar la esencia» de la ruta. Buscan protegerlo del «contagio turístico del peregrinaje»

www.lavozdegalicia.es

 

[henrythedog]

What I found late last year is that people in the queue were generally respectful of those wishing this devotion.

Some "tourists" in the queue might be unhappy about it, but you cannot let them dictate their own prejudice onto your prayerful devotions.

I’d agree with this. Earlier this year I queued to pay my respects to St James and - as before - the small space in front of the reliquary was occupied for quite some time by those with genuine devotion. I waited my turn as someone in the intermediate ‘respectful’ category. The few who appeared to have little interest in where they were, other than that it must be documented on a ‘phone did at least have the decency to not intrude.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I’d agree with this. Earlier this year I queued to pay my respects to St James and - as before - the small space in front of the reliquary was occupied for quite some time by those with genuine devotion. I waited my turn as someone in the intermediate ‘respectful’ category. The few who appeared to have little interest in where they were, other than that it must be documented on a ‘phone did at least have the decency to not intrude.

I was given more consideration than most from the combination of the devotion, staff and big black pilgrim cape, and that they realised the staff wasn't just for show, but a needed walking aid for my disability. The person behind me waited until I moved on up and out before even making a start down the stairs.

But I did see some less respectful attitudes before me up the line whilst queuing.