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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

Sarria - Is a stop over worth it?

David with new Kit!

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2019, 2021, 2022
Hi Guys
I don't arrive until September 7th but I'm doing my planning just now, spurred on by my direct flight being cancelled and the "option" offered flying from London Gatwick to Barcelona (2hr wait) and then on to Bilbao (Vueling). Bilbao was my destination anyway, so not too bad. It was always my intention to then get the direct train the following morning from Bilbao to Logroño to restart my camino (2019 from SJPP to Logroño).

However, the morning train to Logroño does not seem to be running, only PM trains. Again, not a problem, there is a regular bus service from Bilbao to Logroño and I now know how to book my tickets online.

So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Sarria is not exactly my cuppa.
Melide on the Sunday market day is an interesting stop.
Casa Barbadelo which is only about 4km beyond Sarria has a nice vive, a swimming pool and very good restaurant. as of a number years ago when I stopped there. I see it is rated 8.8 on booking .com
You could wander around Sarria and walk to Barbadelo after lunch.
 
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€46,-
Melide has an interesting little museum (Museo Terra de Melide) with great postcards and market day there is spectacular-- I was tempted to pick up some huge cheeses and flasks of orujo, but then remembered I would have to carry it all for another 100km. Saint Anthony's chapel near the museum is worth a look for its statuary. In days gone by (likely not any more) one could get the TLS at the Libreria e Lotarias Parrado on Rua Ichoas, just to the south. The Council has a web-page for pilgrims at: http://www.turismomelide.com/index.php/en/ . I stayed at the Hotel Sony, basic but comfortable and with a good restaurant, and located well for an early start the next day.

In Sarria, I liked the terrace along the Malecon where one could sip an aperitif and watch pilgrims arriving, and the street of many albergues leading up to the church of Santa Marina is also entertaining, but aside from battery-recharging, I don't see much point to an extra day there.

 
I think some of your responders are being a little cagey....

Sarria is that last place most pilgrims want to do a rest day. I found it to be a jarring experience with crowds and a circus like atmosphere. I prefer to stop short, or walk past it as others have suggested........

Buen Camino
 
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Sarria? Nope. You can do better.

Here's a thought, if your plan permits. Samos. There are several nice places in Samos where your could overnight. You could tour the monastery. And then you could enjoy the short, undemanding walk from Samos into Sarria -- one of the most scenic and charming bits on the entire Camino Frances.
 
After Leon and Burgos, I don't think there is a town that I would take an entire day off. How about a couple of short days. Not knowing your other stops it is hard to make a recommendation. Possibly, short day to Ponferrada, Astorga, O'Cebrerio or go take the route to Samos, then the next day get to Sarria in time to have lunch, go to the church and then head on the Barbadelo. This shortens the next day a little and gets you on your way ahead of the numbers leaving Sarria in the morning.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70
 
I don't know your age or your physical abilities to walk distances but you are correct, you have a few days on your schedule that are too long in my opinion. One schedule killer that few people take into account is the morning you wake up and it is raining and the forecast is for rain all day long.
 
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70
A little feedback from my 4 times walking the Camino Frances. I'm sure you will get lots of opinions and ultimately have to make your own decisions based upon how much time you have and your physical abilities. Also, be sure you know what is open. Many of the albergues on the normal list and books are not open.
1) I rarely suggest a bus to anyone, but leaving Leon is one that is definitely worth considering (very industrial). You could bus to La Virgen and then walk to Hospital de Orbiigo. This sets you up for a short day to Astorga a wonderful town with the Gaudi museum. Or you could go on to Murias de Rechivaldo after a rest in Astorga.
2) I know many people like Rabanal, but I prefer Foncebadon. This puts you at Cruz de Fero ahead of the crowds and normally the tour buses. (not sure about those now, but they can ruin a moment at The iron cross). The downhill to Molinaseca is difficult and tiring so shortening that day is good. Also, if you have knee issues you might consider staying on the road here.
3) How about stopping in Cacabelos instead of such a long day to Villafranca.
4) If you stay in Cacabelos you would then pass Villafranca and possibly stay in Trabadelo
5) You are missing a day on your schedule from Herrerias to O'Cebrerio....in my case Trabadelo to O'Cebrerio. If you plan to stay in O'Cebrerio you will definitely need reservations yesterday.
6) As I isuggested before a short day to Samos and then pass through Sarria after lunch and a short visit going on to Barbadelo

I'm sure you've been reading everything about the limited accommodations, particularly in the last 100km.

Hope this helps and just doesn't make it harder for you :)
Buen Camino,
 
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Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

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We are 60 + 61 in good health a regularly walk 20-25kms, but really don't want to walk more if it can be avoided. I realize I have to work on it a bit more to get the daily kms down

My schedule is still work in progress and @Susan Peacock has spotted a typo in my Schedule I had not noticed.

Using the advice above, by working in an extra day, maybe two, I can avoid a stop over in Sarria and pick up some of your suggestions

Accommodation - Yes, I've been following the thread on the forum, so I go informed. If I worried too much I'd never leave the UK.

Also, we are not on a time hook so we can extend a stop if it rains to hard
 
We are 60 + 61 in good health a regularly walk 20-25kms, but really don't want to walk more if it can be avoided. I realize I have to work on it a bit more to get the daily kms down

My schedule is still work in progress and @Susan Peacock has spotted a typo in my Schedule I had not noticed.

Using the advice above, by working in an extra day, maybe two, I can avoid a stop over in Sarria and pick up some of your suggestions

Accommodation - Yes, I've been following the thread on the forum, so I go informed. If I worried too much I'd never leave the UK.

Also, we are not on a time hook so we can extend a stop if it rains to hard
Sounds great. I have never heard a pilgrim say “I wish I had gone faster” but often hear “I wish I had gone slower.” You will find you pace. Ultreia
 
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70

Lots of great advice already. Likewise I would not stop in Sarria.
If I needed a rest I would just stop where ever seemed nice, (when I needed it) or walk short days.

A couple of comments on the plan.
Don't try to stick to it if it doesn't seem right 'on the day'.
Pushing on to a place when tired or injured, just because you 'planned' to stay there, has ended many a Camino.

I also plan my Caminos day by day, but really only to get an estimate of how many days to allow, and it's a fun way to study the route. My plan rarely survives the first week.

27th September, Rabanal to Moilinesca. That will be quite a hard day, the climb up from Rabanal is OK, but the descent into Molinaseca can in my view, be the hardest day on the CF. Following that with a 30 km day might not work so well for you.

29th September. Villafranca to Herrerias. I see the next day you start from O Cebreiro? There is a gap of some 8kms up the hill to O Cebreiro. I presume you are planning to get horses up the hill?

Ultimately I would suggest, hold you plan very lightly, and just have a day or two spare (other than planned rest days) to give you the flexibility of an extra rest day or a couple of short days.

For example on my first Camino it took me 9 days from Sarria to Santiago! Due to injury I was down to 10-15 kms / day. Stuff happens. :rolleyes:
 
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Hi Guys
I don't arrive until September 7th but I'm doing my planning just now, spurred on by my direct flight being cancelled and the "option" offered flying from London Gatwick to Barcelona (2hr wait) and then on to Bilbao (Vueling). Bilbao was my destination anyway, so not too bad. It was always my intention to then get the direct train the following morning from Bilbao to Logroño to restart my camino (2019 from SJPP to Logroño).

However, the morning train to Logroño does not seem to be running, only PM trains. Again, not a problem, there is a regular bus service from Bilbao to Logroño and I now know how to book my tickets online.

So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
Not sure if it is worth a stop, I had wonderful PT in Sarria that helped me recover a bit before the last 100K. I love Casa Barbadelo in Morgade- out from Sarria on the way to Portomarin, and Pension Albergue a Pedro in Sarria. Had private rooms/w bathrooms both places.
 
Sarria is not exactly my cuppa.
Melide on the Sunday market day is an interesting stop.
Casa Barbadelo which is only about 4km beyond Sarria has a nice vive, a swimming pool and very good restaurant. as of a number years ago when I stopped there. I see it is rated 8.8 on booking .com
You could wander around Sarria and walk to Barbadelo after lunch.
I didn't know about Casa Barbadelo until I stopped there for coffee and snack after leaving Sarria for Portomarín. Seemed like a great place & made a mental note then that should I walk the CF again, I would have a reservation to stay there rather than Sarria.
 
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In Sarria during past camios I often stayed at the private albergue O Durminento, rua Maior 44.They offered a very tasty communal meal, the beds/bunks were comfy, and reservations accepted.

Nearby the shop Peregrinlteca, rua Benigno Quiroga 16, was a handy place to replace gear.

After many weeks of walking my 10 Sarria stops were always worthwhile
 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
With regards to Sarria, it depends what you want out of a rest day? Sites…no? But, If you need a rest before starting the last sections on your way to SdC, Sarria can be a good place to take a day. Try to find accommodations near the river as you enter Sarria. It has some decent places to eat. The sometimes overpriced Alfonso IX Hotel actually has a decent Restaurant (not the restaurant, coffeebar, and breakfast place room) but another room with a better menu for Lunch…usually16-18 Euros and much better food (but indoors). Not far fron the river there are two supermarkets, pharmacies, and a sporting goods store. You won’t find a better place for services until you get to SdC!
 
I have now slipped an extra day in my schedule and its flattened it out a bit. I'm still working on it, this is not going to be the final version as I'm not sure of some of my choices later in this leg. But, at least the 28km and the 30km days have gone!!

My schedule is fully flexible as we are both retired so if we want to divert, add in a day, or simply change the schedule then that's what we will do.

I treat my plan as a guide, to be followed if I don't get a better offer

24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Hospital de Orbiigo11.30
26th SeptemberLeave Hospital de Orbiigo arrive Astorga17.20
27th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Foncebadon25.90
28th SeptemberLeave Foncebadon arrive Ponferrada26.20
29th SeptemberLeave Ponferrada arrive Villafranca24.70
30th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive las Herrerias20.70
1st OctoberLeave Herrerías and arrive Biduedo23.50
2nd OctoberLeave Biduedo and arrive Sarria25.10
 
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70
I’ve stopped in Sarria twice, never found anywhere on the French Camino I didn’t like. In Sarria when I was there, I liked the little narrow streets with restaurants. I also sat in the church and listened to children singing and was moved to tears. Maybe people are against Sarria because it’s the last place where you have to start if you want to receive your compostela so it can get busy but it’s got it’s own charm. If you ask what there is to do in Sarria in your web browser, it has lots of suggestions.
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
I have now slipped an extra day in my schedule and its flattened it out a bit. I'm still working on it, this is not going to be the final version as I'm not sure of some of my choices later in this leg. But, at least the 28km and the 30km days have gone!!

My schedule is fully flexible as we are both retired so if we want to divert, add in a day, or simply change the schedule then that's what we will do.

I treat my plan as a guide, to be followed if I don't get a better offer

24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Hospital de Orbiigo11.30
26th SeptemberLeave Hospital de Orbiigo arrive Astorga17.20
27th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Foncebadon25.90
28th SeptemberLeave Foncebadon arrive Ponferrada26.20
29th SeptemberLeave Ponferrada arrive Villafranca24.70
30th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive las Herrerias20.70
1st OctoberLeave Herrerías and arrive Biduedo23.50
2nd OctoberLeave Biduedo and arrive Sarria25.10
If your schedule allows you to add another day, I would stop in Molinseca after Foncebadon and then stop in Cacabelos for a night before Villafranca. The Hotel Moncloa de San Lazaro in Cacabelos has an 4 star restaurant and very nice rooms if your goal is the see the Templar Castle in Ponferrada you would have time to do that if you arrive at a time when it is open, they have some strange hours as I remember.
 
You have many good suggestions, but I'm going to agree with a couple of them - highly recommend bus/taxi out of Leon to Virgen del Camino, then taking the Mazarife route. We stayed at Molino Galoches in Villavante and it was wonderful. Highly recommended. I stopped for lunch at Casa Barbadelo in Morgade, and had, hands down, the best bocadillo de atun of not only that camino, but all 3 of the caminos I've undertaken. Perfect ratio of atun packed in oil and the juiciest tomato softened the bread just the right amount - I still dream about that sandwich!
 
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70
That’s amazing planning. I wish I could do that. For what it’s worth I am in Sahagun today and will have my next rest day in Leon. After Leon I guess I just walk to Santiago and take half days in Astorga, Villafranca, Ponferrada and basically anywhere else if I need a break. Sarria, why not if it suits your schedule and condition on the day. It’s a valuable and important town stop on the Camino Frances and has been looking after Pilgrims for centuries
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Melide has an interesting little museum (Museo Terra de Melide) with great postcards and market day there is spectacular-- I was tempted to pick up some huge cheeses and flasks of orujo, but then remembered I would have to carry it all for another 100km. Saint Anthony's chapel near the museum is worth a look for its statuary. In days gone by (likely not any more) one could get the TLS at the Libreria e Lotarias Parrado on Rua Ichoas, just to the south. The Council has a web-page for pilgrims at: http://www.turismomelide.com/index.php/en/ . I stayed at the Hotel Sony, basic but comfortable and with a good restaurant, and located well for an early start the next day.

In Sarria, I liked the terrace along the Malecon where one could sip an aperitif and watch pilgrims arriving, and the street of many albergues leading up to the church of Santa Marina is also entertaining, but aside from battery-recharging, I don't see much point to an extra day there.

Melide! Where we all try the Pulpo. On my second walk I traded that tradtion for maybe the best steak east of Kansas.
 
Stayed at Casa Barbadelo somewhat by accident in 2017. We were lucky to get a shared room without a reservation. This trio you’d better get a reservation. I have one in the bunk room for my small group and it took me numerous tries to arrange it.

I really loved this place though. Swimming pool, wonderful food. It was a bit fragrant of recently fertilized fields as I remember, but we did NOT want to bunk with the hordes in Sarria.
 
Melide has an interesting little museum (Museo Terra de Melide) with great postcards and market day there is spectacular-- I was tempted to pick up some huge cheeses and flasks of orujo, but then remembered I would have to carry it all for another 100km. Saint Anthony's chapel near the museum is worth a look for its statuary. In days gone by (likely not any more) one could get the TLS at the Libreria e Lotarias Parrado on Rua Ichoas, just to the south. The Council has a web-page for pilgrims at: http://www.turismomelide.com/index.php/en/ . I stayed at the Hotel Sony, basic but comfortable and with a good restaurant, and located well for an early start the next day.

In Sarria, I liked the terrace along the Malecon where one could sip an aperitif and watch pilgrims arriving, and the street of many albergues leading up to the church of Santa Marina is also entertaining, but aside from battery-recharging, I don't see much point to an extra day there.

Interesting post on several levels. To consider Sarria, a town that’s been a serious stop for Pilgrims for centuries, as not much more than a battery recharge outlet is a sad reflection indeed. Next time you have the privilege to sip an aperitif as you watch Pilgrims make their Camino through Sarria… maybe you should check your privilege.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Interesting post on several levels. To consider Sarria, a town that’s been a serious stop for Pilgrims for centuries, as not much more than a battery recharge outlet is a sad reflection indeed. Next time you have the privilege to sip an aperitif as you watch Pilgrims make their Camino through Sarria… maybe you should check your privilege.
I have a privilege panel which cheerfully does that for me; I suspect that they would point out that my privilege is of having the resources to travel. The OP asked a question; I gave my opinion that Melide was a better stop to spend a day. I explained my reasoning. A hundred pueblos along the Camino have provided support and hospitality to pilgrims for a thousand years. Sarria's recreational and health facilities have much to offer its inhabitants, but only the church of Saint Marina for pilgrims.

@La Rubia Does Molino Galoches in Villavante still have the horde of fluffy kittens? I found this place in a torrential downpour and their hospitality was wonderful.
 
You have many good suggestions, but I'm going to agree with a couple of them - highly recommend bus/taxi out of Leon to Virgen del Camino, then taking the Mazarife route. We stayed at Molino Galoches in Villavante and it was wonderful. Highly recommended. I stopped for lunch at Casa Barbadelo in Morgade, and had, hands down, the best bocadillo de atun of not only that camino, but all 3 of the caminos I've undertaken. Perfect ratio of atun packed in oil and the juiciest tomato softened the bread just the right amount - I still dream about that sandwich!
I too have stayed at Molino Galoches and it was terrific, I have also stayed at Tio Pepe. Yes, definitely take the bus from Leon to Virgen del Camino and I agree walking to Mazarife is lot more scenic than the road walk to Villavante.
 
Hi Guys
I don't arrive until September 7th but I'm doing my planning just now, spurred on by my direct flight being cancelled and the "option" offered flying from London Gatwick to Barcelona (2hr wait) and then on to Bilbao (Vueling). Bilbao was my destination anyway, so not too bad. It was always my intention to then get the direct train the following morning from Bilbao to Logroño to restart my camino (2019 from SJPP to Logroño).

However, the morning train to Logroño does not seem to be running, only PM trains. Again, not a problem, there is a regular bus service from Bilbao to Logroño and I now know how to book my tickets online.

So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
Better to stop over in Ponferrada, not a lot to see in Sarria.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Interesting post on several levels. To consider Sarria, a town that’s been a serious stop for Pilgrims for centuries, as not much more than a battery recharge outlet is a sad reflection indeed. Next time you have the privilege to sip an aperitif as you watch Pilgrims make their Camino through Sarria… maybe you should check your privilege.
I can sip an apertif in Sarria, watch hordes of newly minted pilgrims and walk on to Barbedelo, thank you very much.
 
I think there is some confusion between Casa Barbadelo and Morgade. Morgade is about 8 km after Barbadelo. That whole area of villages is poorly signposted and it’s easy to not know which is which.
 
I have now slipped an extra day in my schedule and its flattened it out a bit. I'm still working on it, this is not going to be the final version as I'm not sure of some of my choices later in this leg. But, at least the 28km and the 30km days have gone!!

My schedule is fully flexible as we are both retired so if we want to divert, add in a day, or simply change the schedule then that's what we will do.

I treat my plan as a guide, to be followed if I don't get a better offer

24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Hospital de Orbiigo11.30
26th SeptemberLeave Hospital de Orbiigo arrive Astorga17.20
27th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Foncebadon25.90
28th SeptemberLeave Foncebadon arrive Ponferrada26.20
29th SeptemberLeave Ponferrada arrive Villafranca24.70
30th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive las Herrerias20.70
1st OctoberLeave Herrerías and arrive Biduedo23.50
2nd OctoberLeave Biduedo and arrive Sarria25.10

On your first day, en route to Villadangos del Páramo, you will pass through La Virgen del Camino, just west of León.

Two routes exist(ed) between La Virgen and Hospital de Órbigo. I found the northern route to be noisy (it is right beside a two-lane highway busy with truck traffic), mostly unattractive, and totally uninspiring. That first hot and noisy day walking between La Virgen and Villadangos on the northern route is a day of my life that I will never get back.

There is or was an alternative southern route. I did not take it but have read that (as of 2017) it was quieter, much more rural, but with very limited support services such as e.g. cafés, shops, lodgings, etc. I do not have current information about that southern route.

The two routes diverged at La Virgen, on a small local side road (Calle Paz) separate from and on south side of the busy main highway, at a confusing mess of competing arrows painted on the pavement of the side road. In 2017, the bifurcation point was at approximately (42.5777753, -5.6449560).

Just something to think about.
 
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Hi Guys
I don't arrive until September 7th but I'm doing my planning just now, spurred on by my direct flight being cancelled and the "option" offered flying from London Gatwick to Barcelona (2hr wait) and then on to Bilbao (Vueling). Bilbao was my destination anyway, so not too bad. It was always my intention to then get the direct train the following morning from Bilbao to Logroño to restart my camino (2019 from SJPP to Logroño).

However, the morning train to Logroño does not seem to be running, only PM trains. Again, not a problem, there is a regular bus service from Bilbao to Logroño and I now know how to book my tickets online.

So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
Stop when your body tells you to rest. You know, you never know what will happen. I have walked through Sarria 3 times and outside a place that sells really good pizza called Matias Locando that is on the way out of town, I don't think there is any reason to make a special stop. In fact my recommendation is to get through Sarria around mid-day and stop there for lunch.
Again stop when your body tells you to. But to each his own.
 
Two routes exist(ed) between La Virgen and Hospital de Órbigo.
Yes. In post #17, I mentioned the route through Villar de Mazarife instead of the soulless highway route through Villadangos. I think that anyone who has walked both would recommend the Mazarife option. At the time I walked, it was easy to get confused where the routes diverge after La Virgen, but it hopefully it is clearer now. Just stay left (south) before you get to the end of La Virgen..
 
Sarria is not exactly my cuppa.
Melide on the Sunday market day is an interesting stop.
Casa Barbadelo which is only about 4km beyond Sarria has a nice vive, a swimming pool and very good restaurant. as of a number years ago when I stopped there. I see it is rated 8.8 on booking .com
You could wander around Sarria and walk to Barbadelo after lunch.

True. However, I do have a real fondness for Sarria and do stop over for a day to have a wonder around.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I liked @Susan Peacock 's suggestions.

One additional strong recommendation is to take the route from Leon to Mazarife instead of to Villadangos. I have taken both, and in my opinion, the route to Villadangos is one of the most tedious stretches on the Camino.
Thanks for your comment on Villar de Mazarife. Only from watching copious YouTube vids I came to the conclusion that a walk through the Paramo to Mazarife (via Oncina) was likely the best route. My only problem (more like challenge) is accommodation in Mazarife (mid Nov this year), and at present, it looks like my wife and I may have to do an extra 3.7 miles from Mazarife to Villadangos to find digs. Other than that small hurdle we are really looking forward to this section out of Leon.
 
Yes, Sarria can be a bit boring when one sticks strictly to the "plig path" - just like so many other places along los Caminos. But if you're interested in the broader view, stay over and take a wander - visit parks, vistas, churches, as others have suggested.
And if you arrive not feeling so well, and think you may need to consult a medico, there is a very nice centro de salud - where, when I asked how much I owed, the medico tore up my bill and tossed it in the trash with a big smile. 😉
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi Guys
I don't arrive until September 7th but I'm doing my planning just now, spurred on by my direct flight being cancelled and the "option" offered flying from London Gatwick to Barcelona (2hr wait) and then on to Bilbao (Vueling). Bilbao was my destination anyway, so not too bad. It was always my intention to then get the direct train the following morning from Bilbao to Logroño to restart my camino (2019 from SJPP to Logroño).

However, the morning train to Logroño does not seem to be running, only PM trains. Again, not a problem, there is a regular bus service from Bilbao to Logroño and I now know how to book my tickets online.

So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
I was supposed to stop in Sarria but once I arrived I realized that the Camino changes dramatically aT this point. This is where all the tourists aka Toureginos, begin their 100km Camino. Organized Camino groups with matching cotton tshirts...
I ended up cruising right by. Really didn’t enjoy those last few days and completed the last 95km in 2 days. Spend an extra day in Santiago!
 
This is where all the tourists aka Toureginos
Please, let's give this denigration of those who choose to walk from Sarria for a variety of reasons, such as lack of money or time away from work a rest.

[Edited to correct typo]
 
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A selection of Camino Jewellery
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70
Are those miles or kilometers?
 
Hmmm. . . Are we evolving from discussions of 'who's a real pilgrim' to 'How to do a Woke Camino? :)
Over the years, I have acquired a non-paying clientèle of activist types who come to me to reword their writing so that it has a bit more effect-- I like the intellectual exercise and it provides me with the illusion that I am doing something useful. These fierce young women (and a few non-binary folk) are quick to point out my many inconsistencies. Since the original post on this I was whatsapping with one of them who knows my Camino fetish and she confirms that my privilege of having leisure and resources is very real but, on the other hand, walking and supporting local businesses is perhaps the most responsible way to travel, so she says that it cancels out and I will not be in the tumbrils come the revolution. I have a CD of songs of the Spanish Republic, so will listen to those to strengthen my street creds.
 
Stayed at Casa Barbadelo somewhat by accident in 2017. We were lucky to get a shared room without a reservation. This trio you’d better get a reservation. I have one in the bunk room for my small group and it took me numerous tries to arrange it.

I really loved this place though. Swimming pool, wonderful food. It was a bit fragrant of recently fertilized fields as I remember, but we did NOT want to bunk with the hordes in Sarria.
Oh, yes… we stayed there in 2018 and it was grand. Nice little library, great food, lovely pool. ANd for whatever reason/luck, we had a triple room just to the 2 of us… stayed away from the dorm.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Since the original post on this I was whatsapping with one of them who knows my Camino fetish and she confirms that my privilege of having leisure and resources is very real but, on the other hand, walking and supporting local businesses is perhaps the most responsible way to travel, so she says that it cancels out and I will not be in the tumbrils come the revolution. I have a CD of songs of the Spanish Republic, so will listen to those to strengthen my street creds.

That made me smile. I guess the idea of earning WOKE Offset Credits, as some do with Carbon Offset credits, could become a new thing. :)

When doing a pilgrimage on a camino route, and separate vacation tourisms elsewhere, I would never think of it as 'privilege' as much as it is a 'reward'.

I am able to take a lifetime (and still continuing) of hard work, surviving combat, saving and sacrificing in order to finally be at the point where I can sit in a village bar and drink Fanta naranja, eat a chorizo and queso bocadillo, while giving scritches to a cute camino dog or cat. 👍👍

When I was 22, I never imagined being able to do such things; surviving on Top Ramen and Kraft mac n cheese while getting thru university was the most immediate concern, much less focusing on where I would be in 46 years.
 
Sarria is not exactly my cuppa.
Melide on the Sunday market day is an interesting stop.
Casa Barbadelo which is only about 4km beyond Sarria has a nice vive, a swimming pool and very good restaurant. as of a number years ago when I stopped there. I see it is rated 8.8 on booking .com
You could wander around Sarria and walk to Barbadelo after lunch.
I Sarria a restful place have stayed twice staying each time for two days at a time.
 
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Hi Guys
I don't arrive until September 7th but I'm doing my planning just now, spurred on by my direct flight being cancelled and the "option" offered flying from London Gatwick to Barcelona (2hr wait) and then on to Bilbao (Vueling). Bilbao was my destination anyway, so not too bad. It was always my intention to then get the direct train the following morning from Bilbao to Logroño to restart my camino (2019 from SJPP to Logroño).

However, the morning train to Logroño does not seem to be running, only PM trains. Again, not a problem, there is a regular bus service from Bilbao to Logroño and I now know how to book my tickets online.

So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
Greetings,I stopped over for 2 nights ,I feel it was well worth it ,plus it gave me a extra burst to continue on
 
Sarria is not exactly my cuppa.
Melide on the Sunday market day is an interesting stop.
Casa Barbadelo which is only about 4km beyond Sarria has a nice vive, a swimming pool and very good restaurant. as of a number years ago when I stopped there. I see it is rated 8.8 on booking .com
You could wander around Sarria and walk to Barbadelo after lunch.
I was about to recommend Casa Barbadelo but you beat me to it! On several Caminos we’ve taken to calling “pilgrim paradise” (though there are a few others IMHO), for the grassy spaces, hot hot water and comfy beds, pool, great bar and excellent food (including a bacon and egg breakfast!). I also like that it works as an offset from the Sarria starters, making the latter stages seem a bit less crowded.
 
This is great
You have all confirmed my suspicions, and I shall heed your advice

Below is what I have provisionally planned, but for us, some of those stages are too long. We had decided on shorter stages to take more time (Samos option looks interesting, as does Ponferrada), so I had better make good on that decision!

I shall wait and see what advice others contribute, but its looking likely I will add a day into this section to lessen the wear on our bones and to enjoy the walk.

23rd SeptemberDay in Leon
24th SeptemberLeave Leon and arrive Villadangos21.30
25th SeptemberLeave Villadangos and arrive Astorga28.50
26th SeptemberLeave Astorga and arrive Rabanal20.60
27th SeptemberLeave Rabanal and arrive Molinaseca25.60
28th SeptemberLeave Molinaseca and arrive Villafranca30.60
29th SeptemberLeave Villafranca and arrive Herrerias28.90
30th SeptemberLeave O'Cebreiro and arrive Triacastella20.70
1st OctoberLeave Triacastella and arrive Saria18.70
2nd OctoberDay in Sarria
3rd OctoberLeave Saria and arrive Portomarin22.70
When will you walk from Herrerias to O’Cebreiro?
 
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Everybody's opinions above are all grist for the mill. I guess that's why I look at this forum. But all our tastes are different. And remember most people who have walked a Camino had very little information - they just walked and had faith that they would be looked after. Then social media arrived and the world hasn't been the same since and we seem to want to know a lot rather than just go and explore and discover..

Have a list of places to stay, both likely and contingencies, and places to explore along the way. This forum is good for that. And then after you have walked for a while, you will experience places you like and are curious about. People you meet will suggest places. Or you might meet people you wish to have dinner with that night. Those are the places to linger for a while and perhaps stay for the night.

You might get blisters or achilles tendonitis (many do) or something else - that will force you to adjust and rest maybe.

My experience suggests a flexible and adaptable plan to enable you to linger and stop as you go makes for a good Camino. Keep an eye on the distance to Santiago and the date of your return flight. So far I haven't been homeless on any night during quite a few Caminos. (With COVID and the possible need to book ahead such flexibility could be restricted ??)

I remember walking over 30 kms to get to a recommended albergue - on arrival it was busy and squalid. I rested awhile and walked into the unknown for another 10 kms to the next albergue arriving 6 pm - not well-known, excellent, and a good dinner with a stranger.
 
Sarria, in its underlying basis, is a pleasant town -- it's just that some pilgrims can have their experience of the place negatively affected by the large number of pilgrims who are there in a typical year.

But 2021 is probably the best year in decades to experience the town "normally", as the pilgrim numbers are unusually low.
 
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Please, let's give this denigration of those who choose to walk from Sarria for a variety of reasons, such as lack of money or time away from work a rest.

[Edited to correct typo]
And how about those who can only do 5 to 7 Km per day, because they have aliments or just simply want to go very slow! I may not like throngs of people, but anyone walking to Santiago, from Sarria or SJPdP is a pilgrim to me.
 
Read through all the comments above and, once again, was amazed at how some folks can be verbally aggressive/bordering on insulting with others they've never met in person.

On Camino--you know, that shared/desired, beautiful, humbling experience that brings us to this place--it's highly unlikely they would speak in the same manner in person as they do on this forum. Blows my mind every time I see it happen...
 
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Over the years, I have acquired a non-paying clientèle of activist types who come to me to reword their writing so that it has a bit more effect-- I like the intellectual exercise and it provides me with the illusion that I am doing something useful. These fierce young women (and a few non-binary folk) are quick to point out my many inconsistencies. Since the original post on this I was whatsapping with one of them who knows my Camino fetish and she confirms that my privilege of having leisure and resources is very real but, on the other hand, walking and supporting local businesses is perhaps the most responsible way to travel, so she says that it cancels out and I will not be in the tumbrils come the revolution. I have a CD of songs of the Spanish Republic, so will listen to those to strengthen my street creds.
Fabulous
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I should like to point out to those who are enthused by the prospect of the swimming pool at Casa Barbadelo that that facility closes earlier in the autumn than any other albergue (or did, when I stayed in the village). There were three other albergues open in the village when I stayed there in 2015, but that one was closed. As far as I am concerned, the main attraction of Barbadelo is the Igrexa de Santiago, a beautiful twelfth century Romanesque church. Worth visiting.
 
I should like to point out to those who are enthused by the prospect of the swimming pool at Casa Barbadelo that that facility closes earlier in the autumn than any other albergue (or did, when I stayed in the village). There were three other albergues open in the village when I stayed there in 2015, but that one was closed. As far as I am concerned, the main attraction of Barbadelo is the Igrexa de Santiago, a beautiful twelfth century Romanesque church. Worth visiting.
I have a reservation for mid-Oct and have been there mid-Oct in 2015, so they should be open for him.
 
I might be pushing my luck here but is it a pilgrimage or a tourist destination you are after? Sarria is on the way and I’m sure most of you have squeezed into an underground train without another thought on your commute to work, yet don’t want to rub shoulders with people starting in Sarria. It’s a pilgrimage and not fine dining either and if you’ve never done the Camino, every stop for the night leads you somewhere you’ve never stayed before. I think maybe this discussion should stop now, although if anyone has really checked out the amenities in Sarria, that would be interesting. I met several pilgrims having to rest up for two weeks due to shin splints who might have got to know Sarria really well! 😛
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
So, back to my question - I'm planning my stops along the CF and we are taking an extra day in Burgos and Leon after recommendations on this forum. My next planned extra day was/is Sarria but I can't remember seeing anyone recommend it as a stop for an extra night to rest up.

And if it turns out to be a place worth an extra day to wander around, recommendations for accommodation. Oh yes, we are both of an age where we would prefer our own room too.

All going well, we hope to complete the whole trip this time.

Can anyone give me some advice please?
If you are not opposed to getting on the bus, Lugo is 35 minutes away, and the Roman wall, cathedral and churches, museum and restaurants more than repay a one-day visit. Monforte, also 35 minutes away, is not as big, but has one spectacular building (Colegio PP Escolapios), a castle (now Parador) on a hill, a good religious art museum and more good restaurants than you could eat at in a day (Polar, O Grelo and the Parador are near the center; Brasería Casa Reboiro and Abadía San Simón are out beyond the train station). Lugo is on the Primitivo and Monforte on the Invierno if you wanted to walk on rather than taking the bus back.
 
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I would visit Lugo . After walking The Primitivo it was a very desired resting place.
I would also when leaving Sarria go via Samos , peace and tranquility with less crowds.
 
If you're UK based, my advice is to not buy a return ticket until about a week or two before you think you might go back. Then you can hang about wherever you want. Some days you'll feel like a long day but others will be rainy and you'll hide in a nice pension and sleep most of the time. I'd also add that the Brierley advice about buses into and out of Léon is well worth following, I've done that a couple of times.
 
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Sarria is not exactly my cuppa.
Melide on the Sunday market day is an interesting stop.
Casa Barbadelo which is only about 4km beyond Sarria has a nice vive, a swimming pool and very good restaurant. as of a number years ago when I stopped there. I see it is rated 8.8 on booking .com
You could wander around Sarria and walk to Barbadelo after lunch.
Casa Barbadello is definitely worth the stay. Good food and amenities , private rooms as well as bunks. Great tip.
 
Behind the restaurant in Casa Barbadelo you will find an amazing collection of sewing machines, typewriters, cameras, etc.
Barbadelo sewing machines.jpgCameras.jpg
 
I was supposed to stop in Sarria but once I arrived I realized that the Camino changes dramatically aT this point. This is where all the tourists aka Toureginos, begin their 100km Camino. Organized Camino groups with matching cotton tshirts...
I ended up cruising right by. Really didn’t enjoy those last few days and completed the last 95km in 2 days. Spend an extra day in Santiago!
Made me laugh - I walked via Samos and when we rejoined 'civilisation' the first thing saw saw was hordes of people wearing matching T-shirts. Couldn't believe my eyes.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I was supposed to stop in Sarria but once I arrived I realized that the Camino changes dramatically aT this point. This is where all the tourists aka Toureginos, begin their 100km Camino. Organized Camino groups with matching cotton tshirts...
I ended up cruising right by. Really didn’t enjoy those last few days and completed the last 95km in 2 days. Spend an extra day in Santiago!
Everyone starting in St Jean needs to be given a pamphlet or something to let them know that the Camino changes when one enters Galicia. Forewarned is forearmed. If you know that it's going to happen you can adjust your attitude, and learn to enjoy the bright, shiny, new pilgrims. They are really the same as you were around 675 km earlier.
 
If you're UK based, my advice is to not buy a return ticket until about a week or two before you think you might go back. Then you can hang about wherever you want. Some days you'll feel like a long day but others will be rainy and you'll hide in a nice pension and sleep most of the time. I'd also add that the Brierley advice about buses into and out of Léon is well worth following, I've done that a couple of times.
I am UK based, and I don't have a return ticket.

My schedule is only a plan, to be changed as my camino evolves. I'm afraid I'm not a "suck it and see" type of person (though I do envy them at times) as I do like to have an idea where I'm going to end up each day.

I've now added two extra days into my schedule based on the excellent input I have received from others on this forum
 
I still remember some of the pilgrims whom I met along the way after Sarria, on my first camino. Two were American undergraduates: students who had chosen to walk a camino between university terms. One was a woman with a job at the Bank of England and young twin daughters at home, who could not take time for a longer camino. As I was retired at the time, I considered myself fortunate to be able to take long pilgrim walks. But I was a newbie too, and I still am, with much to learn and relying on more experienced pilgrims to help me do so. I love Barbadelo, and the church there was the location of my greatest blessing on caminos, so far. If I were more open to receiving what Sarria has to give, I suppose that I might receive a blessing there too.
 
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I should note that I found Sarria a place where there was a fair bit of exchange between the long-haulers and the 100km gang. For many of those who only had a week for the Camino, they had already gotten the bug, and were anxious to hear of the ups and downs of the long haul. I also found that Spanish 100-km pilgrims were impressed with the long caminos done by foreigners, and I had some interesting conversations. I still found a day in Sarria plenty, but I have long advised people to take a stop when they felt like it, so if Sarria suits someone, they should go for it.
 
I have had some great evenings at the central restaurant up on top of the Camino path in Sarria.
Prefer to stay up there. Wouldn't want to miss it by walking to Barbadelo. Usually stop there for the toilet next morning, does look nice though.
 
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€83,-

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