Sarria vs Lugo

[Maryimelda]

We are looking at Lugo as an alternative to Sarria but need to know if we need to take an alternate route from somewhere before Sarria or do we have to pass through Sarria anyway? Has anyone done this and is it worthit or should we just go through Sarria as originally planned and skip Lugo altogether. Thanks in advance.

 

[Charles Hansen]

We are looking at Lugo as an alternative to Sarria but need to know if we need to take an alternate route from somewhere before Sarria or do we have to pass through Sarria anyway? Has anyone done this and is it worthit or should we just go through Sarria as originally planned and skip Lugo altogether. Thanks in advance.

Our cycling group rode from Sarria to Lugo and very much enjoyed the city, including riding around the Roman wall - the only complete survivor in Spain. I found the city center quite handsome, and we were there on an evening with a group of stilt-walkers strolling around. We had watched them prepare from our hostal rooms, just outside the wall. Part of this was due to Portomarin sounding less than charming - not to mention Sarria (although we had a great dinner at the Sony). I'm sure you know you would take the Camino Primitivo from Lugo to Palas de Rei. We saw maybe a dozen or two walkers through the day on some rather nice quiet, but paved, roads.

As for getting to Lugo, I know it's blasphemy, but you might consider a bus from Ponferrada / Villafranca. It might stop at Pedrafita, which would allow you to go to O'Cebriero and then catch the bus. If you don't wish to miss so much of the route, you would indeed need to go through Sarria. Perhaps the best option might be to take a bus/taxi from there? and then atone for it by walking the Camino Primitivo the next day.

 

[Charles Hansen]

Cancel that - the Sony was in Melide.

 

[TerryB]

I'm sure you know you would take the Camino Primitivo from Lugo to Palas de Rei. We saw maybe a dozen or two walkers through the day on some rather nice quiet, but paved, roads.

The usual route taken from Lugo on the Primitivo is through San Roman de Retorta to Melide. This follows the line of the old Roman road (Via Romana Lucius Iria Flavia) from Lugo to Santiago and on to Padron. I have walked both the San Roman - Melide route and via Palas do Rei. If you are walking, the San Roman - Melide route would, in my opinion, be far better.
Links here:-
http://www.gronze.com/guia-del-camino-primitivo/etapas/etapa-10-lugo-san-roman-da-retorta
http://www.gronze.com/guia-del-camino-primitivo/etapas/etapa-11-san-roman-da-retorta-melide

Blessings on your planning
Tio Tel

 

[Charles Hansen]

The usual route taken from Lugo on the Primitivo is through San Roman de Retorta to Melide.

I tried to trace this route on the map, but Seoane, San Vicente do Burgo, and San Román da Retorta seem to defeat Google. They are located, but nowhere near where they should be in this context.

However, I did find an appealing cycling option if I decide to go through Lugo again. LU-232 to Friol, AC-934 to Sobrado and O Campo Da Lanza, and then AC-234 to Arzua. They all appear to be quiet, paved roads.

 

[Castilian]

To visit Lugo is a good idea and more interesting than visiting Sarria. In order to reach Lugo, you have several options like for example:

• From Sarria, by bus or train.
• From Samos and Triacastela by bus (it might require a change of buses in Sarria)
• From Pedrafita do Cebreiro by bus (you would need to either walk or take a taxi from O Cebreiro to Pedrafita do Cebreiro; rough distance: 5 kms) without passing through Sarria.
  
• From Villafranca del Bierzo by bus without passing through Sarria.

I tried to trace this route on the map, but Seoane, San Vicente do Burgo, and San Román da Retorta seem to defeat Google. They are located, but nowhere near where they should be in this context.

For Seoane, type 27233 Seoane. For San Vicenzo Do Burgo, type 27233 O Burgo. And for San Romao da Retorta, just type San Romao da Retorta (and zoom the map to see the real location a bit on the left -west- of the point signaled on the map).

 

[Charles Hansen]

Thanks for the info Castilian. As I zoom in I discover that there are different place names only 200-300 meters apart !

Based on the sketch, I was looking for San Román, not San Romao - it looks more like a hamlet than a village.

We actually followed the route past there, but later turned south on LU-P-4004. When I was planning this, I only had 1:400,000 Michelin maps, and I picked what looked like the most direct, non-busy roads. I suspect that it would only show numbered roads in an area like this, and perhaps not even all of those.

http://ridewithgps.com/routes/6872077

Looking at the map, there is a region ENE of Melide (around Serra do Careon - perhaps a national forest?) with no numbered roads. However, what is interesting is that if I zoom in, I discover that a surprising number of the very small roads are paved. The landscape is certainly a lot greener and more interesting than the Meseta, but then there is a lot more rain ;-) I almost wonder if more small roads are paved in Galicia because the rain takes such a heavy toll on dirt roads?

I may play with creating a road route into Melide from Lugo, but I think anyone attempting it would need to carry GPS gear, as there would be no other way to follow it.

I'm curious if walkers just follow the roads, or are there paths through the woods and fields sometimes?
Terry - since you've walked it, are there signs the entire way, or do you use detailed maps from guide books?

We saw a good number of walkers all the way to Palas de Rei, but don't know how this compares to the numbers on the northern route. It's possible that, like our group, walkers take the southern route just because it's more direct and easier to follow?

Charles

 

[Castilian]

Serra do Careon - perhaps a national forest?

Serra do Careón is a Site of Community Importance

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Site_of_Community_Importance

This other link might be useful to get some more info about Serra do Careón:

http://natura2000.eea.europa.eu/Natura2000/SDF.aspx?site=ES1110014

I almost wonder if more small roads are paved in Galicia because the rain takes such a heavy toll on dirt roads?

I think the main reason is that population is very diseminated (i.e.: there are tons of hamlets) and every small hamlet wants a paved access (minimum).

 

[Maryimelda]

Thanks guys, this is all very interesting information. Am I reading it right when I say that it isn't really advisable/possible to walk directly from Lugo to SDC? We really would like to see Lugo but we don't want to either extend the trip by too many days as we do have mild time restrictions nor do we want to "cheat" by using taxis, buses etc. Would a good option be to walk from Ponferrada to Sarria then get a bus to Lugo and a bus back to Sarria a day or two later to continue on foot to SDC? It's all very involved I know but we really do want to see Lugo. Once again thanks for your input everyone.

 

[TerryB]

Thanks guys, this is all very interesting information. Am I reading it right when I say that it isn't really advisable/possible to walk directly from Lugo to SDC? We really would like to see Lugo but we don't want to either extend the trip by too many days as we do have mild time restrictions nor do we want to "cheat" by using taxis, buses etc. Would a good option be to walk from Ponferrada to Sarria then get a bus to Lugo and a bus back to Sarria a day or two later to continue on foot to SDC? It's all very involved I know but we really do want to see Lugo. Once again thanks for your input everyone.

There is no problem at all in walking from Lugo to SDC. it is a recognised Camino. Charles has not walked that way - only been on his bike!! The route is the original camino which has been used for over 1200 years. For most walkers it is only 2 days from Lugo to Melide where the Francés joins. There are albergues at San Roman da Retorta, (x2), Ferreira (also a Casa Rural) and As Seixas (2).
Use the links I gave above and have a look at my blog to see what it is like.
http://walktocompostela.blogspot.co.uk/2009/05/ferreira-to-melide.html

Blessings
Terry

 

[TerryB]

Based on the sketch, I was looking for San Román, not San Romao - it looks more like a hamlet than a village.

I'm curious if walkers just follow the roads, or are there paths through the woods and fields sometimes?
Terry - since you've walked it, are there signs the entire way, or do you use detailed maps from guide books?

Depends what you call "a village". I would suggest that the route does not pass through any "villages", only scattered houses of hamlets!
I only carried printed instructions - there is no need for maps as the route is well waymarked with mojon and shell as well as the ubiquitous yellow arrows! Lugo is over 100 kms from SDC so a pilgrimage from Lugo qualifies for a Compostela provided that the requisite sellos are obtained in the Credential.
It would be possible to walk the Camino Francés to Palas do Rei, then two days on the minor roads from there to Lugo - staying overnight at San Roman de Retorta. Have one or two full days in Lugo then walk back to San Roman and on to Melide.

Blessings on your planning
Tio Tel

Pics from the route