Seeking input on my tentative Primitivo stages for September 2022

[michaelporourke]

Hi everyone,

I am walking the Primitivo in September 2022. This will be my first Camino (I'm 40 years old with average athletic ability). Due to family and work responsibilities back home, I need to try to stick to a walking schedule (of course I will adapt if necessary, I just can't afford to add 2 extra days).

I wanted to share my plan below — It’s currently 12 walking stages plus 2 rest days (Oviedo and Lugo). I'd welcome your input as I want to make sure I'm not getting in over my head. Are these sensible stages, or would you recommend dividing one of the stages up?

A couple notes:

1) During the first half, I really wanted to experience the albergue in Bodenaya, which explains why I set the early stages that way. I also plan to take the Hospitales route if the weather allows

2) Since September is a fairly busy month, from an accommodation standpoint during the last 100 km, I was trying to avoid the Camino rances traffic in Melide.

Thanks for your help!

Mike

 

[John Hawke]

The Primitivo is beautiful and you have set out a reasonable schedule with several challenging days.
As along as you are prepared to "adapt" you should be fine. You might check out a fellow Pa Pilgrim for
her insights:

 

[AlainC]

I did the Primitivo in September 2017. Your first few stages, up to Lugo are very similar to what I did, including the hospitales. I was 64 years old at the time and in reasonably good physical shape. I don’t think that you will have any problems. Enjoy the day in Lugo. It is a great place to visit. The last part when you join with the Camino Frances will be busier, so reserving your accommodation in advance may be a consideration. Buen Camino.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Having done the Primitivo twice, I would find this a rigorous schedule. I wonder if you could not have a longer final day than the 10.2km from Lavacolla--- unless, perhaps, you are trying to make the 12.00 PIlgrims' Mass, and you might need to park your pack somewhere and be there by 11.00 to get a seat (those who have been in SdC recently can tell me if that is still necessary-- and shorten a few of your longer days. There is not a lot of flexibility in stages on much of the Primitivo. Unless you are fit and prepared, you may find Bodenaya as your second night to be a stretch-- 30km in that terrain is not a walk in the park.

 

[michaelporourke]

Having done the Primitivo twice, I would find this a rigorous schedule. I wonder if you could not have a longer final day than the 10.2km from Lavacolla--- unless, perhaps, you are trying to make the 12.00 PIlgrims' Mass, and you might need to park your pack somewhere and be there by 11.00 to get a seat (those who have been in SdC recently can tell me if that is still necessary-- and shorten a few of your longer days. There is not a lot of flexibility in stages on much of the Primitivo. Unless you are fit and prepared, you may find Bodenaya as your second night to be a stretch-- 30km in that terrain is not a walk in the park.

Thanks for your insight! In response to some of your thoughts and questions:

- Yeah, I'm starting to wonder if I should shorten my Day 1 walking stage from Oviedo and make Bodenaya my destination at the end of Day 2? I've read on a few blogs the recommendation to start our your Camino with a shorter stage. Seeing as I'm hoping to stay at Bodenaya on the evening of Day 2, do you have a recommended stop on Day 1 so that I have a decent-length walk on Day 2 to Bodenaya?

- It's not a priority for me to make the Pilgrim's Mass on the day I arrive in Santiago. (****My wife is tentatively planning to fly over and welcome me at the Square. I planned to stop at the Pilgrim's Office and rest, then try to get a good seat in the Cathedral the following day for the Pilgrim's Mass)

- If I were to add an extra Day during the second half of the Camino Primitivo, how would you recommend splitting up the stages?

 

[michaelporourke]

I did the Primitivo in September 2017. Your first few stages, up to Lugo are very similar to what I did, including the hospitales. I was 64 years old at the time and in reasonably good physical shape. I don’t think that you will have any problems. Enjoy the day in Lugo. It is a great place to visit. The last part when you join with the Camino Frances will be busier, so reserving your accommodation in advance may be a consideration. Buen Camino.

Alain,

Thanks so much for your feedback. If I were to add 1 or 2 walking stages, do you have any suggestions as to how I should break up the stages? Bodenaya is a priority, and I do hope to walk the Hospitals provided the weather is favorable.

I really appreciate everyone's support on the Forum. It's really humbling.

Mike

 

[JerryStroebele]

Doable but pay attention to your feet. (Read Jon Vonhof's "Fixing your Feet.) Look on Google Earth and you will see that much of the first half of the Primitivo is perpendicular to the folds of the mountains. So it is up, up, then down, down several times a day. Trim your toenails WAY back to avoid banging them into the toe of your boots or shoes. Drink electrolytes like Aquarius. You might stop short of Arzua at the private albergue Santa Irene. Equivalent to, but different from your wonderful stay at David's in Bodenaya. And easily walk on into Santiago from there. Buen Camino

 

[michaelporourke]

Doable but pay attention to your feet. (Read Jon Vonhof's "Fixing your Feet.) Look on Google Earth and you will see that much of the first half of the Primitivo is perpendicular to the folds of the mountains. So it is up, up, then down, down several times a day. Trim your toenails WAY back to avoid banging them into the toe of your boots or shoes. Drink electrolytes like Aquarius. You might stop short of Arzua at the private albergue Santa Irene. Equivalent to, but different from your wonderful stay at David's in Bodenaya. And easily walk on into Santiago from there. Buen Camino

Thank you, Jerry. What is the name of the Santa Irene alburgue?

 

[peregrina2000]

I wanted to share my plan below — It’s currently 12 walking stages plus 2 rest days (Oviedo and Lugo). I'd welcome your input as I want to make sure I'm not getting in over my head. Are these sensible stages, or would you recommend dividing one of the stages up?

Hi, Mike,
I just walked almost those exact stages in September, having just turned 71. I think they are perfectly fine for a spring chicken like you. I had started four days earlier on the Salvador in León, so maybe I was a bit more used to the elevation gain than you will be, but I think you will find that the vast majority of Primitivo pilgrims walk very similar stages. (Because of wanting to stay in Bodenaya, and because you want to walk Hospitales, you aren’t likely to enjoy the Oviedo-Salas-Tineo alternative).

A few suggestions

From Bodenaya, I think it’s well worth a few more kms past Campiello to Samblismo. Beautifu albergue, right next to the Hospitales-Pola split.

I started Hospitales from Samblismo, which got me into Berducedo in plenty of time to keep walking on to the private albergue in La Mesa. Dinner served, nice place.

Then from La Mesa, I also pushed on a few kms beyond Grandas to stay in O Castro. Highly recommend it!

I was not spending a rest day in Lugo, so I went beyond O Cadavo to Castroverde. That gave me a short day in Lugo and plenty of time to walk the walls and see the sights.

From Lugo I got on the Camiño Verde with a night in Boimil and then the next day a bit past Sobrado to the Abeiro da Loba. The Camiño Verde connects you to the Norte a few kms before Sobrado dos Monxes. The Abeiro da Loba, about 6 km further on, is a new “eco-albergue.” very very nice. Lots of greenspace outdoors for lounging.

Abeiro da Loba - Casa rural en Galicia, Camino Norte

Abeiro da Loba es un alojamiento rural en plena naturaleza. Ideal para familias, grupos de peregrinos, eventos y alquiler vacacional. Haz tu reserva!

abeirodaloba.com

From there I went to Arzua, but it is also possible to avoid the Francés even further at Boimorto.

I only stayed in private rooms this fall and had everything reserved, which was not at all my preferred way to do a camino, but it seemed the most prudent for me.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[JerryStroebele]

It is just Santa Irene. 98 15 11 000. If you take the Camino Verde. (Route finding may be a challenge) and stop in Sobrado there is also a nice private albergue. Across the street and slightly hidden is one of the best small restaurants in Spain

 

[Robi Diaz De Vivar]

Thanks for your insight! In response to some of your thoughts and questions:

- Yeah, I'm starting to wonder if I should shorten my Day 1 walking stage from Oviedo and make Bodenaya my destination at the end of Day 2? I've read on a few blogs the recommendation to start our your Camino with a shorter stage. Seeing as I'm hoping to stay at Bodenaya on the evening of Day 2, do you have a recommended stop on Day 1 so that I have a decent-length walk on Day 2 to Bodenaya?

- It's not a priority for me to make the Pilgrim's Mass on the day I arrive in Santiago. (****My wife is tentatively planning to fly over and welcome me at the Square. I planned to stop at the Pilgrim's Office and rest, then try to get a good seat in the Cathedral the following day for the Pilgrim's Mass)

- If I were to add an extra Day during the second half of the Camino Primitivo, how would you recommend splitting up the stages?

Hi there. Your itinery looks spot on to me. I don't see the margin in shortening your first day - the walk to Grados is spectacular and not at all physically demanding. It seems to be a shame to miss Salas and Pola which were my 2 favourite stops on the way. Keep strong for the last 2 km to Fonsagrada. I did this as an averagely fit 64 year old - it was tough - especially the day to Lugo because you are on tarmac so much but everything-else is such a compensation that you don't notice. Buen Camino.

 

[oursonpolaire]

Thanks for your insight! In response to some of your thoughts and questions:

- Yeah, I'm starting to wonder if I should shorten my Day 1 walking stage from Oviedo and make Bodenaya my destination at the end of Day 2? I've read on a few blogs the recommendation to start our your Camino with a shorter stage. Seeing as I'm hoping to stay at Bodenaya on the evening of Day 2, do you have a recommended stop on Day 1 so that I have a decent-length walk on Day 2 to Bodenaya?

- It's not a priority for me to make the Pilgrim's Mass on the day I arrive in Santiago. (****My wife is tentatively planning to fly over and welcome me at the Square. I planned to stop at the Pilgrim's Office and rest, then try to get a good seat in the Cathedral the following day for the Pilgrim's Mass)

- If I were to add an extra Day during the second half of the Camino Primitivo, how would you recommend splitting up the stages?

Looking at the details, I do not think that I am much help here. There's not a lot of flexibility on the Oviedo-Grado stretch-- there is the albergue at Escamplero, 12km out of Oviedo but that would leave your day 2 a 45-km stretch, which would be ...... challenging...... or the Villa Palatina at Paladin, 20km out of Oviedo, which would then still leave 35km the next day. My initial suggestion of breaking the next day into two stages, of Grado-Cornellana of 10km and of Cornellana-Bodenaya of 18.5km founders on the absence of accommodation in Cornellana, where it is unclear if the albergue is open or any of the hotels are open.

Otherwise, it's a reasonable 22km to Salas out of Grado, then a very short 7km day to Bodenaya. None of these are perfect solutions, of course, but why not make up your mind when you get to Grado? While everyone speaks very highly of the albergue, there is also a quite comfortable hotel at Sestiello 3km up to the left before Grado.

​

 

[AlainC]

Hi Mike, if you have time, add a stage between Grado and Bodenaya. If you stop in Salas, your second day will be about 21 Km or 13.5 miles. Then you would have another short stage to Campiello the next day. You should definitely stop in Campiello, in 2017 the albergue served a great communal meal at night and you could get breakfast the next morning for a small fee, about 2 euros as I recall. This may have changed with COVID!! Another change after Lugo could be to stop in Pedrouzo after Arzúa. This is a 19,3 Km or 12 miles stage, but it sets you up nicely for the final stage to Santiago the next day with a short 19.4 Km stage. The last part of the walk into Santiago is not that interesting along the airport but once you see the Cathedral, your spirit and pace will pick up. If you keep your last stage a short 10Km, take some time in Monte do Gozo just before the final part to Santiago.
I agree with an earlier comment to keep your toe nails short. I did not get any blister but I lost two toe nails after I got back home. They were badly bruised by the constant hitting against the inside of my walking boots during the many climbs and descent in the first few days. The hospitales should not be a problem in September. It may be a bit cold to start in the morning, that should not be a problem for you if you are from Phily. By mid day it will have warmed up. Make sure that you take food and water as there is nowhere to buy food on the way. The view from the top is spectacular. Buen Camino.

 

[michaelporourke]

Hi everyone,

I want to thank you all for your great walking stage and albergue suggestions so far.

I had some time today to revisit my Primitivo plans and, using your input, I think I'm getting closer to locking in a schedule. I wanted to share what I have so far (see below).

Before Lugo: Given its "up and down, up and down" terrain, I decided to go easy on my legs and added one extra day. The other benefit is that it will allow me to spend time in Salas (between Grado and Salas, I was more interested in the latter based on what I've read and seen ...)

After Lugo: The goal was to try to spread the walking stages out some more and stay under 30 km each day. I've heard great things about the private albergue in Ferreira, and I appreciate @JerryStroebele's suggestion in Santa Irene. Has anyone had experiences in Boente and accommodation? I'm open to stopping somewhere else after Ferreira.

 

[Former member 99290]

Yes, I have stayed twice in Boente - five years apart - the latest in October 2019. There are a few accommodation options but I’ve stayed at Albergue Boente twice and enjoyed v much.

Albergue Boente | Alojamiento para peregrinos en el Camino Francés

¿Dónde dormir en Boente? Nuestro albergue es la mejor opción de alojamiento en esta aldea que se encuentra en medio de la etapa de Palas de Rei y Arzúa.

albergueboente.com

They have dorms and private rooms. And you can have breakfast and dinner too.

Both times, coming off the Primitivo, we walked from A Ferriera, had a leisurely lunch in Melide and then strolled the short 5 kms on to Boente.

 

[peregrina2000]

Has anyone had experiences in Boente and accommodation?

Like @Jenny@zen, I have stayed in the same place in Boente twice. The first time I stayed there, it was run by two young enthusiastic, jovial guys. They had just opened up and were trying to make a go of it. Three or four years later, the same guys were there but they had definitely become jaded. It was a different experience. A good lesson on how the camino treats its entrepreneurs.

Albergue Boente | Alojamiento para peregrinos en el Camino Francés

¿Dónde dormir en Boente? Nuestro albergue es la mejor opción de alojamiento en esta aldea que se encuentra en medio de la etapa de Palas de Rei y Arzúa.

albergueboente.com

I don’t know if you watch Álvaro Lazaga’s videos ( he just completed his 43rd camino, I think), but he stays in the place next door. And always has good things to say about it.

 

[NadineK]

I just stayed in Boente in July 2021 (and I really like your plan to do Lugo -> Ferreira, Ferreira -> Boente); I stayed at Albergue El Alemán and thought the couple running the place were so kind and accommodating.

 

[cbacino]

Hi everyone,

I am walking the Primitivo in September 2022. This will be my first Camino (I'm 40 years old with average athletic ability). Due to family and work responsibilities back home, I need to try to stick to a walking schedule (of course I will adapt if necessary, I just can't afford to add 2 extra days).

I wanted to share my plan below — It’s currently 12 walking stages plus 2 rest days (Oviedo and Lugo). I'd welcome your input as I want to make sure I'm not getting in over my head. Are these sensible stages, or would you recommend dividing one of the stages up?

A couple notes:

1) During the first half, I really wanted to experience the albergue in Bodenaya, which explains why I set the early stages that way. I also plan to take the Hospitales route if the weather allows

2) Since September is a fairly busy month, from an accommodation standpoint during the last 100 km, I was trying to avoid the Camino rances traffic in Melide.

Thanks for your help!

Mike


View attachment 115569

I walked the Primitivo in 2018, late June-early July. Age 65. Walked between 20-25 miles per day. No rest days, no itinerary - just called (around noon) hostels (if they accepted reservations) in a town where I felt comfortable walking to. Never had a problem with finding a bed. Have a good walk.

 

[michaelporourke]

I just stayed in Boente in July 2021 (and I really like your plan to do Lugo -> Ferreira, Ferreira -> Boente); I stayed at Albergue El Alemán and thought the couple running the place were so kind and accommodating.

Thanks Nadine! Looking forward to joining you and the SEPA Camino chapter on a hike in 2022.

 

[David Bedlow]

Here is an account of the Camino Primitivo I walked in 2016 when I was 69. It may give you a few ideas or insights

 

[Arctic_Alex]

Great another one considering September 2022 Maybe see you on the trail

 

[jsalt]

Are these sensible stages, or would you recommend dividing one of the stages up?

I did the following in April 2018. I didn’t book ahead, just walked, so stopping where I did was a “comfortable” stage for me, aged 64, just average fit.

It included the Hospitales route.

I also wanted to stay at Bodenaya, but I got there early so decided to keep going. (It gave me an excuse to do this camino again one day.)

Escamplero 11.9kms Albergue
Cornellana 25.5 Albergue
La Espina 19.7 Albergue El Texu
Borres 28.1 Albergue
Berducedo 26.0 Albergue
Grandes de Salime 22.7 Albergue
Fonsagrada 26.5 Albergue
O Cadavo 25.1 Albergue
Lugo 31.3 Albergue
Ferreira 27.1 Albergue A Nave
Ribadiso 33.1 Albergue
Brea 16.2
Santiago 25.7

I don’t do rest stages. I would rather walk for about 10kms in the morning, and then the afternoon becomes a “rest stage”.

 

[dbier]

Thanks so much for asking the questions! I too want to walk the Primitivo in Sept...2023. . I have also been wondering about Bodenaya, Samblisimo, Ferreria, and Boente. Or about the Verde...


Do let me know how it goes. Buen Camino

 

[Kiwi-family]

There are no bad options! What would I give to be walking!!!
Having done the Primitivo twice, I have to put in one more plug for the Camino Verde after Lugo. It is nothing short of magical.
Noone has mentioned the monastery at Sobrado. It is one of the highlights of my thousands of walked kilometers. You can get a taster here:

WordPress.com

wordpress.com

And if you're thinking "magical" is an exaggeration, have a look at this:

WordPress.com

wordpress.com

Incidentally I totally agree with Peregrina2000's suggestions of Samblismo and La Mesa (where there is also a municipal), Castroverde and O Castro.

You might find it's good to familiarise yourself with distances and options - and then see how it unfolds once you hit the ground.