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LIVE from the Camino Semana Santa 2021/2023 on the Sanabres

Time of past OR future Camino
Portugués Porto'17,Lisbon'18
Inglés A Coruña y Ferrol '18
Invierno'19
Sanabres 2021-2023

Hello all,
Tomorrow my son and I will return to the scene of the crime and finish up our Camino de Sanabres that we started during Semana Santa of 2021. I thought I would reminisce about our first two days and our decision to abandon the Camino two years ago.
We live in A Coruña and those of you (maybe not many since this is an English forum) who live here know that here in Spain we were very limited by the pandemic. Semana Santa in 2021 we read in the news about other Europeans traveling to the islands in Spain for nice vacations but we were not allowed to leave our autonomous community, for us this was Galicia. So luckily this meant we could get to Santiago when many couldn’t (legally and I was born a rule follower) so my husband drove us to the border of Órense and Zamora (A Canda )and off we went.
I have to admit I have just a few memories, at our first café, I’m not sure where, we were the first pilgrims in possibly a year, they were very happy to see us. Another memory is coming up on a barking dog who seemed to be watching sheep, this was in the middle of a forest, all of the sudden a man stood up, he had been napping in the middle of the trail, we quickly put up our masks (again a rule follower) he was shocked to see us!! Other then that I just remember feeling grateful to be walking, it had been a full year. We walked to A Gudiña. We stayed at the Madrileña, confortable enough.
The next morning we got up early for the 34+kms to Laza. If was a lovely day until it wasn't. We made it the 20kms to Campobecerros. Stopped for a drink and started walking again. I was tired and in hind sight I knew something was wrong. We walked a couple kms and it became clear things were not ok for my son nor I. For me I was naseaus and really couldn't see why....for my son his anxiety was kicking in. His story is his so I can't give details but after trying to talk with him I could see that he was walking for me and I was walking for him, which is not a reason to walk. He had university homework to do and my health was not good, we needed to let this Camino go. Of course this is where we had no cell coverage, my son ran ahead and called home and my husband set off to get us. Within a few Kms I couldn't walk and collapsed on the side of the trail. We must have been 4-6 kms from Laza but had already walked 34kms. My body knew we were done and was not going to let me walk to Laza. Within a week I was hospitalized with acute diverticulitis.... Who knew that could present as back pain, but I knew why I had been naseaus.....
So tomorrow morning, Saturday April 1st we will travel back to the side of the trail and finish what we started. I hope to update with pictures at the end of each day. Gonna be long days.....we plan on getting to Santiago on Thursday. Fingers crossed we make it this time!!
Buen camino,
MaryEllen
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
You were not meant to walk it in 2021 and now you can. I hope you have a really enjoyable and healthy Camino Sanabres. I also hope you are able to send us Live On the Camino reports as I will enjoy following your progress. The Sanabres is on my bucket list for next year.
 
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€149,-
Sanabres day 3 3.5km before Laza to Vilar de Barrio

Today started with a 3 hour car ride, amazing how tired a car ride can make you. We drove to Casa Núñez in Campobecerros to get a stamp from our last stop in 2021, then my husband drove us to where he picked us up in 2021. It took only about 20 minutes but we drove the same route as the Camino....scary is an understatement much better to walk then drive. I was glad to be out of the car and on our way.
Turns out we were only 3-3.5kms short of Laza so we were there quickly. The walk today was well marked and easy...the climb to albergueria the only somewhat difficult part. The weather was cloudy with the occasional sprinkle but not hot or cold. And now we are in Casa Adelino, glad we booked it because we are walking along side a group at least 15 Irishman!! After last month's invierno without a pilgrim in sight. Let's see if we are walking the same stages but I'll be honest I'm glad I'm not in the albergue here tonight!!
I'll check in tomorrow!! Thanks for reading.
MaryEllen

30F7F547-53EA-41B7-8012-C3C73FDA64EB.jpegD0DAEBC5-2D7B-4825-8D1E-315E0174DA95.jpeg98080784-B136-473F-A96D-0E52AFFE6BBB.jpegB3BFC6C0-F3BD-4D4D-947F-816716B511AC.jpegF7787B42-A6F5-4279-8726-3BE3CBD77C6E.jpegB5B64A5A-5827-4F00-8CB4-6049A1CFF5C3.jpeg03E2F035-4FBD-4406-8D08-668F72C1EE30.jpegB875D472-AFDC-4C13-BB90-E2896BBBC5C7.jpeg
 
Sanabres day 4 Vilar de Barrio to 8km
outside of Orense 29km
We woke up early, since I'm with my son we walk in the dark, which I enjoy as well but prefer not to when I walk alone. However today it was 32f/0c when we started. We took turns wearing my gloves and made good time!! The walk to xunqueira de ambia was nice a very long stretch on a very straight dirt road through farmland we could see the road stretching out ahead of us for kms. After, I have to admit was a bit of a slog ending here in the outskirts of Orense. We live in Galicia so we don't need to visit Orense and I preferred having two equal days to Cea rather then a 35km day today. The best thing about Hotel San Cibrao is the shower and bath!! After so much road walking it was heaven. I think the food must be good here, lots of locals with kids enjoying a Sunday lunch. We will eat in the cafetería a little later. Unlike the invierno that I love sooo much we had plenty of places for a coffee and then just when you needed the servicios another bar would pop up, I liked this!! But....the invierno...no words.... I do recommend staying in Orense if you have time and haven't been there. My son has a certain number of days so we are adapting. We will have one 30+ day but we have walked it before so we know what we are in for. I probably could have walked two more hours today but I am very glad I didn't have to. Tomorrow Cea... Right or left after Orense?? I'll fill you in tomorrow!!
Buen camino,
MaryEllen

2701B287-D6F0-4FE6-9FC7-50BA3DAE1F27.jpegB7375AAA-66F7-4EAE-AF0D-2DDC315549DD.jpeg7825B2F9-57ED-42C4-BF67-041225477C52.jpegEF5044E7-A8C9-4C8E-9B78-383979B46E66.jpegD4F10134-6BE9-4C92-B8C7-86C52F603FA1.jpegBAE2296E-779F-4E29-A443-F0EF7C8734D3.jpeg
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Sunrise on a Camino...just what I dream of experiencing again.
On this forum I saw a suggestion that your spare socks can be used as mittens on cold mornings!
Buen Camino
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Sanabres day 5 antes 8km antes de Orense to Cea

We started early again so the industrial part went by in a flash and soon we were in Orense. We decided to go 'right' it was a beautiful walk, especially after yesterday with all the road walking. Today even though a km longer and a bit of uphill went by faster. We are seeing a lot more pilgrims. The Irish folk ( a few ladies with the 15 men we saw on Saturday) 4 portugués yesterday, and quite a few small groups of 2-4 mostly Spanish. I imagine the albergue is close to full and it is completo here at the Casa Mañoso. Nice to see happy pilgrims enjoying the spring. Tommorow I think we will split up, my son wants to do the harder varient alone, I'm fine saving 4-5 kms we will walk to estación de lalin together at the end. I'll be back tomorrow, I need to go find some of this famous bread!!
Buen camino,
MaryEllen

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Sanabres day 5 Cea to Estación de Lalin

We slept an extra half hour since we would be walking alone. My son went through Oseiro and I went through piñor, his way was 4-5km further and he still finished an hour before me....he didn't stop at all and I stopped 3 times unintentionally. You know a coffee then you need servicios then you get another coffee and it perpetuates. Even if I didn't stop he would have gotten there before me as he averaged 7-8min per km, at my very best I can maybe get below 11 for a few...without him setting the pace I was definitely slower. He was happy and picked up my pace for the second half of the day. The way through Piñor was very pretty and I actually enjoyed the slower pace at the beginning but I really didn't expect him to finish a full hour before me and I felt a little rushed that last hour (my fault). I was happy to rest a few before we walked to the pension taverna do vento. The number of pilgrims has picked up every day and I think there is a bit of trouble finding beds. Yesterday we were talking with the 4 portugués and they were a little down, it turns out the Irish group has a couple that are driving and reserving bed for the others at the public albergues. The portugués have been getting up really really early to get beds. Plus with the albergue in O castro (Dozon) closed it seems like some pilgrims are diverting to lalin. I wonder why the public albergues are allowing this? I know we all have our own opinions but for me this isn't quite right. I'm glad I reserved beds for us in private accommodation leaving the bunks for those that need them.
So tomorrow I'll have about 6 new to me kms then I will be with the invierno Ponte Ulla then Santiago on Thursday. This has gone by fast!! I'll check in tomorrow.
Buen camino,
MaryEllen

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Sanabres day 7 Estación de Lalin to Ponte Ulla

Today we left at 530... So early but we had 35km to do and it is getting warm out....we enjoyed walking in the moonlight and before we knew it we were already in Silleda, 15 down, 20 to go. I reset my tracking app, mind games but it helps me !! It was a super lovely walk today. Even though this is my third time I had an inspiring day. Soon after Silleda we realized a white mastín was following us, she was a beautiful dog and so well behaved, she wore a big huge collar with a phone number so we figured this was normal for her to wonder the Camino. We passed some fellow pilgrims and the dog stayed behind. While we were having a coffee in Bandeira (7km from Silleda) the Spaniards started walking by and sure enough along came the dog. We asked in the bar and the owner said that the dog went with pilgrims and the owner knew where to look. We again passed the Spanish pilgrims while they had a picnic and the dog went with us. I think we must have gone 15km with her and she was getting hot and tired. I decided to call the number on the collar when at the ancient church past Donelos the woman didn't know the dog. So the owner came and found us. I asked if Blanquita had ever made it to Santiago and she said not quite!! By coincidence I ran in to her at O cruceiro here in Ponte Ulla having lunch we truly are in a small world. The other highlight was seeing a group of 40 portugués as we decended into Ponte Ulla. I haven't seen a group that big in awhile. Busy busy!! Oh and Spring is here!! Tomorrow Santiago!!
Buen camino,
MaryEllen

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Sanabres day 8 Ponte Ulla -Santiago

Yesterday my son had plans with friends so we left at 530 again.... Because of daylight savings time the first 10km were by moonlight. We stopped by Reina Lupa for a coffee and to say hi to Carmiña but we were soon back on the road to Santiago. I just walked this day in February while finishing the invierno so I was fine walking it in a more 'get to the end' way for my son. In February I left with the sunrise and walked at a slower pace, I prefer that, but this walk was for the two of us. We arrived at the cathedral by 10:15. We went to get our certificates. All pilgrims now pre-register, at the moment they arrive or at any time before. I imagine those without internet access can take care of things 'old school'. My son was in a hurry.....but I might have seen panels where information can be entered. Anyway the process is super fast. the certificates are printed by your volunteer and since you have entered all your information yourself they just scan the bar code to access, confirm with your credential and print. No wait. I asked and they said at sometimes there is a little tiny wait if a crowd gets there at the same time,they are processing about 1000/day and said noone is really waiting. I think this summer getting the compestela will be easy peasy, many processing chairs were empty, fill those with volunteers and I imagine they will keep the wait to a minimum.
So another completed camino for the books number 5 for me 4 for my son. Future plans, we want to do the few days on the Sanabres in Zamora we couldn't due to the pandemic rules. I'm sure we will finish another few trips on the inglés since we live here in A Coruña (we don't count the inglés in our camino finish totals) I have an open Norte but that will take some years to finish. The planning is always fun!! Tusks to all who made this trip with me!!
Buen camino,
MaryEllen
 

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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Sanabres day 8 Ponte Ulla -Santiago

Yesterday my son had plans with friends so we left at 530 again.... Because of daylight savings time the first 10km were by moonlight. We stopped by Reina Lupa for a coffee and to say hi to Carmiña but we were soon back on the road to Santiago. I just walked this day in February while finishing the invierno so I was fine walking it in a more 'get to the end' way for my son. In February I left with the sunrise and walked at a slower pace, I prefer that, but this walk was for the two of us. We arrived at the cathedral by 10:15. We went to get our certificates. All pilgrims now pre-register, at the moment they arrive or at any time before. I imagine those without internet access can take care of things 'old school'. My son was in a hurry.....but I might have seen panels where information can be entered. Anyway the process is super fast. the certificates are printed by your volunteer and since you have entered all your information yourself they just scan the bar code to access, confirm with your credential and print. No wait. I asked and they said at sometimes there is a little tiny wait if a crowd gets there at the same time,they are processing about 1000/day and said noone is really waiting. I think this summer getting the compestela will be easy peasy, many processing chairs were empty, fill those with volunteers and I imagine they will keep the wait to a minimum.
So another completed camino for the books number 5 for me 4 for my son. Future plans, we want to do the few days on the Sanabres in Zamora we couldn't due to the pandemic rules. I'm sure we will finish another few trips on the inglés since we live here in A Coruña (we don't count the inglés in our camino finish totals) I have an open Norte but that will take some years to finish. The planning is always fun!! Tusks to all who made this trip with me!!
Buen camino,
MaryEllen
Wish I could see your photos, some problem. Did you choose thumbnail or whatever they are called?
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Wish I could see your photos, some problem. Did you choose thumbnail or whatever they are called?
I can see the pictures....whenever I don't choose thumbnail for multiple pictures the moderators change the pictures to thumbnail so now I just automatically insert as thumbnail.....
Sorry you can't see them....
 
Thanks for the reports and the pictures. Spring has definitely sprung. That's annoying regarding the group bookings and their drivers. Experienced it on Inglese a few years ago, sense of frustration I recall...

Well done and 😉 enjoy Easter
 
Last edited:
I can see the pictures....whenever I don't choose thumbnail for multiple pictures the moderators change the pictures to thumbnail so now I just automatically insert as thumbnail.....
Sorry you can't see them....
I will try again as it may have been a moment of slow connection.
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
I will try again as it may have been a moment of slow connection.
Hi Kirkie
I have been experiencing this really slow downloading of pics also. Only over recent weeks though. Inexplicable? Not only on the pics in this thread either. I’ve just tried again . I had to divert my attention to something else for a while and eventually they opened. If I’m limited for time though - I would otherwise skip it.
My phone has capacity and it never used to be like this (for me that is) to open pics.
Ah Well. (For me - it is more patience required 🤔).

To @Betterisgood
Lovely photos. Congratulations on your recent arrival in Santiago (and 2nd this year ).
A wonderful walk
Buen camino.
 
I stopped 3 times unintentionally. You know a coffee then you need servicios then you get another coffee and it perpetuates.
Oh, yeah! Especially tempting when there are loads of options. ☕
Loved your 🚶🏽‍♀️🚶🏻‍♂️! Wow you guys are real early birds. Felicidades!
 
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