September Camino - reflection

[PapaSmurf76]

On 1st September 2016, my wife and I started the Camino Frances from St Jean. We took a few rest days during the trip and finished 10th October. There were a few things which were different to what we expected and I wanted to share this for the benefit of anyone considering a September Camino in particular. By the end of the Camino, I really didn’t think I would ever be heading back for another. In a couple of weeks, we’ll be setting off on the Camino Portuguese. So now’s a good time for me to get this down before I forget everything I learnt on the Frances last year.

We took a Go-pro with us and have uploaded a bit of each day to Youtube if you’d like to experience a bit of our Camino. (I think it gets better as we get used to a Go-pro and the Camino)

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6_LoreKUN6BQ-uexUiBD1p5GR3o3vvAx

Weather –

The weather was considerably hotter than expected during the first week. Our friend’s father who lives in Pamplona told us that he has never experienced weather like this in September.

Landscape –

Largely the grain crops had been harvested and the sunflowers were past their best (or dead). Unfortunately this meant we missed seeing the crops waving in the breeze, and the huge fields of bright sunflowers with their heads pointing to the sky. We had thought this might happen but hoped there would be some left. Grapes were being harvested in some places as we passed. September sees harvest festivals across Spain, so this is a bonus if you want to experience this.

Crowds –

Record breaking crowds during September 2016 from St Jean meant the first third at least of the Camino was very busy for us. Roncesvalles and Zubiri in particular struggled to cope.
I had heard that September was quieter, this just isn’t so. According to Hospitaleros we spoke with in Roncesvalles and Samos, September is always busy and is the time they make their money. So don’t expect it to be quiet.

Footwear –

We both started in waterproof boots, which during the exceptionally hot weather was a big mistake. I suffered from heat rash and Jackie from blisters. We solved this with a visit to the hospital in Logrono and being advised how to treat our conditions. We were advised to take two days break and buy new shoes. I would recommend that anyone wear trail shoes rather than boots, breathability in the hot weather is a big consideration. Also if you’re coming from a cold climate make sure you buy your shoes a size or two larger to accommodate swelling in the heat. Socks were also changed from merino wool to synthetic which made a big difference. Wool socks might be nice in the snow but not in the sun thanks.
Spanish Hospitals are excellent by the way and treated us very quickly, much better than we would have seen in United Kingdom.


Packing (not specific to September)–

Pack - I’m 6’3” tall and trying to keep things light took an Osprey Talon 33L pack. This really didn’t fit, despite being fitted in a couple of different shops. I would go for a pack designed for long distance over trying to save on weight next time.

Clothing - I started with a shirt (evening wear) and two T-shirts (for walking). I had to buy a cotton T for something else to wear. Next time I’ll take 3 T’s to wear during the day. Washing every single day wasn’t fun for me. Underwear, likewise an extra pair (three) for me next time. In future I’ll be taking an extra of each item of clothing so I can go a day without having to wash clothes, and make sure I have plenty of socks, some thin and some medium weight for different temperatures.

Walking sticks - really helped us, even on the flat. I have a bad back and sticks helped. Descents were easier on the knees with the help of the sticks. We used Black Diamond trekking poles, bought for £55 a pair on Amazon.

I hope someone finds this useful and it helps them to plan for their own Camino Frances.

Beun Camino
Craig

 

[Shefollowsarrows]

I was walking at the same time! Yes, terribly hot!! This wasn't my first Camino so I had worked out many of the things you suggested. Trail runners were a blessing for sure, I used Brooks Cascadia. So many people wearing big waterproof boots were hobbling along and suffering with blisters. Not me, this time. I also completely agree with the backpack. First Camino I bought a 32L to save weight....problem with that is 'day packs' have awful hip and shoulder straps with no padding and the inability to carry the weight on the hips properly/comfortably. I'm 5'10. I went with a 60L (not filled of course) with an Amazing hip belt and shoulder straps-Gregory Deva. I hardly felt the weight. Shoes and backpack choices can make or break your Camino, choose wisely or it will be a very Long and Painful experience!! I head to Porto 1 June, looking forward to more lessons!