Seville to Santiago, Spring 2017

[long trails]

Well it's the eve of my VDLP walk up to Santiago. I have been in Seville a couple of days now and could really stay here longer, but the Camino is calling (and the weekend tourist crowds are arriving!).

Feels totally different to the eve of my Camino Frances. Of course SJPdP is a pilgrims town whereas Sevilla is a big city!

I have no shell for my backpack, which is a shame in a way, but to be honest I don't want to add any more weight to what I am carrying. I have been wandering around the tourist shops looking for something, but I've given up now. and happy to hike shell-less.

I've just written a short piece that might help future pilgrms on their arrival in Seville, with a basic map and some points of interest. I will be writing everyday and hoping to provide some useful information instead of moaning about the state of my feet, bunk beds, snorers etc.

http://longtrails.org/pilgrim-camino-seville/

Maybe see one or two of you on the trail!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Get your shell once you arrive it Santiago. You are only meant to weat it then. Back in the day they were given to pilgrims as proof of having arrived. An illegal trade of them eventually started, with people selling them to pilgrims hundreds of km before Santiago, forcing the Pope to put his foot down and only allowing the cathedral to issue them.

Thank you for your blog. I am flying out next wednesday so I will follow you with great interest. I have to say the picture of your credencial made my day: it's different from all the ones I have bought in or from Spain before. I am one of these people who would like a different one for each route.

Looking forward to more posts. Buen Camino.

 

[long trails]

Sounds like a good plan to buy upon arrival. I am going to be walking quite slow and having plenty of zero and nero days, so you may well overtake me at some point.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Sounds like a good plan to buy upon arrival. I am going to be walking quite slow and having plenty of zero and nero days, so you may well overtake me at some point.

If you have nero days then I may well catch up with you, especially since I need a few wheeled sections to get to Salamanca on the 22nd.

 

[OzAnnie]

Anthony
Great blog and you will have taken made it easy for first timers to Seville with good map and pics.
Have a buen camino

 

[CaminoMatt73]

Well it's the eve of my VDLP walk up to Santiago. I have been in Seville a couple of days now and could really stay here longer, but the Camino is calling (and the weekend tourist crowds are arriving!).

Feels totally different to the eve of my Camino Frances. Of course SJPdP is a pilgrims town whereas Sevilla is a big city!

I have no shell for my backpack, which is a shame in a way, but to be honest I don't want to add any more weight to what I am carrying. I have been wandering around the tourist shops looking for something, but I've given up now. and happy to hike shell-less.

I've just written a short piece that might help future pilgrms on their arrival in Seville, with a basic map and some points of interest. I will be writing everyday and hoping to provide some useful information instead of moaning about the state of my feet, bunk beds, snorers etc.

http://longtrails.org/pilgrim-camino-seville/

Maybe see one or two of you on the trail!

If I see you, we have an extra shell. We leave mid morning and head for Guillena.

 

[long trails]

Great thanks for the offer.

Left the hostal in the pouring rain and having a coffee by the cathedral, so have n't got too far yet!

Literally have n't been in any rain for over a couple of months. Left Valencia on it's last dry day, same with Barcelona. It's finally caught up with me.

Might make this coffee last.

 

[long trails]

Municipal albergue is closed for renovations in Guillena soat the Albergue de Luz. Apparently 25 here last night but only 4 currently at 3pm. Raining like crazy outside.

 

[IngridF]

Buen Camino...following with great interest. ..super blog

 

[LesBrass]

So many people leaving to walk the Via... oh I wish I was going with them! Have a great walk folks!

 

[long trails]

Morning! Well I didn't sleep too much last night and lost an hour of course due to the clocks going forward.

Albergue de Luz is pretty good. They have help yourself breakfast too, 12 Euros all in. Think there was about 10 of us here in the end.

The bunk beds in the 6 bed dorm are very unstable, but I managed to wedge my sleeping bag in between the bed and wall, which helped a bit.

Not sure if I mentioned this but lots of yellow arrows all the way yesterday. Hard to get lost.

So dark here even at 7.30am. Spain perhaps should maybe go back an hour like London and Lisbon (Madrid is 3.5 degrees in longitude west of London).

That said, at least the other pilgrims were late to rise. Only one chap before me at 6am. He left in the chilly darkness.

Different vibe to the CF. I think it's partly because most peregrinos are veterans of the Caminos so no newbies. We will see.

Finally, there are two good size supermarkets about 1.5km away from the albergue.

Day One; http://longtrails.org/where-are-the-pilgrims/

 

[Caminata]

Really enjoying your blog. Great to read about the weather...arrows... Albergues...and number of people walking.
Following your updates with great interest as I start walking from Seville on 13 April.
Cheers
Gary

 

[mariuszm]

What app are you using to track your route?

 

[nycwalking]

Thanks for posts and keep them coming. Walking in your footsteps June 2017.

 

[long trails]

Yesterday was only 17km but was very tough nevertheless, probably as tough as any CF day, but all due to the mud and wet. Had it been dry then it would have been ok.

I slept really well last night which is good, with a big stage 3 today. Seems to be a group of nine of us which is very cool. Apparently larger numbers are behind us. The albergue municpal is very nice in Castroblanco, with a great host! Does not open until 1pm so no need to rush here.

Guess I should drag myself out of bed and think about walking!

http://longtrails.org/muddy-hell-vdlp-day-2/

 

[long trails]

Day 3, the hardest yet, 16km walking on the road in the rain, then 13km of delightful trail through the Sierra Norte in the sun.

Really was a day of two halves. The albergue municipal here in Almaden is very nice. The owner of another albergue might try and lure you into their one. Apparently not so nice.

The manager here was a little upset over a squabble about the fee. A pilgrim thought it was 7e when it is actually 10 (says on the wall that it's 7 for groups of 25 plus. The pilgrim has left apparently, presumably to another albergue.

Good mini Dia supermarket in town but closes from 2 til 6.

http://longtrails.org/contrast-vdlp-day-3/
http://longtrails.org/contrast-vdlp-day-3/
Shorter day today, only 14km, and is welcome after yesterday.

 

[long trails]

The app I am using is called 'Geo Tracker' and it's in Google Play, I don't have Apple so not sure of it's availability on that platform.

Meant to add that the big difference so far compared to the CF is that people are not getting up until 8am, and are in no hurry to leave. It could be due to the fact that its not light until 8. I am still in the albergue now past 9am and most of us are still here.

I don't think there is a set time to leave the municipals. I guess because there is no bed rush, there is no need to leave in the dark.

 

[long trails]

I am in main albergue in Fuente de Cantos, and its only me plus one other who has his own room and stays there. He doesnt speak English anyway, and I dont speak German.

This is pretty much the norm on my VDLP. I have only met 6 others, all couple, who are probably staying in a hostal. They aro so cheap after all, makes sense for them to have their own room.

So to sum up, I walk alone and will see no one all day, then I will eat alone and like tonight, drink wine alone.

I work alone so really like and need the social side of the caminos and other long walks I do, but I am not finding this at all on the VDLP and cannot see it improving.

Its very cold in these albergues. I had to get in my sleeping bag this afternoon for a rest, while outside its warm.

Not feeling the love for the VDLP today. If I could be transported to Pamplona then I'd be there.

 

[SYates]

Take heart @long trails the closer it gets to Easter and you to Santiago the more pilgrims will join the VdlP! Buen Camino, SY

 

[long trails]

I am now in Lisbon and considering where to go next but it won't be back to the VDLP.

I decided to stop just south of Merida due to various personal issues with this particular camino.

The main one was the lack of other people. It's not for me to walk all day alone, and then be in an albergue alone or with just one or two others. I enjoy the caminos for the social side. If I am going to hike alone then it's going to be somewhere a damn sight more scenic.

With the exception of about two people, the rest of the the pilgrims consisited of older gentlemen. My issue here is that I prefer being in a mix of people, rather than just one generation.

I am no spring chicken myself, but due to never having grown up properly (thankfully!) I find it much easier to click with younger people. They will often speak very good English too, whereas the majority of older pilgrims I met spoke little English (I understand it's a generational thing, and I am not knocking anyone for not speaking English!) .

That said, I wouldn't want all young people either. I found the mix of ages on the CF to be perfect, and really missed that on the VDLP. I honestly couldn't see this situation improving as I went north.

The pilgrims on the VDLP tend to be ones who have walked many caminos. It's sometimes nice to be around new pilgrims and share their enthusiasm, rather than being around pilgrims who have been there and done it, and are just seemingly going through the motions.

I have real problems sleeping with others snoring and it was really bad this time, probably due to the fact older guys are usually the main culprets ( yes I snore too!). On the CF the albergue dorms are much bigger and I find that noise from snoring is less of an issue in roomier spaces. The VDLP dorm rooms were often very compact, so any noises were very audible. I barely slept a couple of nights, and that's with industrial strength ear plugs!

So these are my thoughts and of course many will disagree and will have had very different experiences, but I am just being honest and stating why the VDLP was not for me.

I think if I was to walk with a friend then it would have been very different. Maybe it's not the best camino for walking solo. I only met one other person doing it solo. He spoke no English and just drank at least one bottle wine by himself every night. I kind of felt sorry for him, but he seemed happy enough.

Another week on the VDLP and I would have been hittng the bottle too.

Sorry for being negative. I guess many people have a fantastic time on the VDLP, but I was n't one of them.

 

[koknesis]

sorry to hear VdlP left you disappointed. I believe every walk has a purpose, so I hope you will find a purpose elsewhere.

 

[Caminata]

Thats a real shame but I think you spoke honestly which no one can knock you for . It is good to hear your opinion ..... and it is an opinion I only heard from a friend the other day who walked it last year . She walked for about 10 days and then she and 3 others left the VDLPlata and went to Pamplona also . I arrive to Seville on 10 April and start walking on 13 April . There is no turning back now and I will start it and see what happens . If I walk for a week and have the same experience as you , I have the luxury of still having time to get a train/bus to Pamplona and walk the Camino Frances . Like you , I enjoy the comrardery of the other Pilgrims . I am walking alone this year . My wife and I walked from Lyon in France to St Jean Pied de Port 2 years ago and had a similar experience where everyone spoke French . The scenery was beautiful but unfortunately we must have just timed it wrong where we didnt meet any English speaking people . It was the most scenic Camino but one we didnt enjoy so much as we missed the friendships we normally make along the way .

Nothing ventured ....nothing gained . It is all a good experience ...no matter what happens . Bring it on Seville - VDLPlata - April 13 !!!!!!!!!

 

[Hutton24]

Thats a real shame but I think you spoke honestly which no one can knock you for . It is good to hear your opinion ..... and it is an opinion I only heard from a friend the other day who walked it last year . She walked for about 10 days and then she and 3 others left the VDLPlata and went to Pamplona also . I arrive to Seville on 10 April and start walking on 13 April . There is no turning back now and I will start it and see what happens . If I walk for a week and have the same experience as you , I have the luxury of still having time to get a train/bus to Pamplona and walk the Camino Frances . Like you , I enjoy the comrardery of the other Pilgrims . I am walking alone this year . My wife and I walked from Lyon in France to St Jean Pied de Port 2 years ago and had a similar experience where everyone spoke French . The scenery was beautiful but unfortunately we must have just timed it wrong where we didnt meet any English speaking people . It was the most scenic Camino but one we didnt enjoy so much as we missed the friendships we normally make along the way .

Nothing ventured ....nothing gained . It is all a good experience ...no matter what happens . Bring it on Seville - VDLPlata - April 13 !!!!!!!!!

buen camino

 

[Kanga]

Well, there will be five Australians on the VdlP from Salamanca from about 23rd April. Four "mature" women and one young man. One ancient mariner, two who have walked the CF (but only once) and two for whom it is a first camino. The plan is the Sanabrés but we have the option of going the CF at Astorga.

 

[C clearly]

It is good to hear the various experiences - not just gliwing reports! I am 2 and a half weeks into the VDLP now and have a few comments (brief, since I need to get up soon, and in no particular order)...

We had some cold nights, so be prepared!
I didn't love the Seville-Merida part, and think starting at Merida would be an excellent idea.

It is true that there is a preponderance of older, more experience pilgrims, who are also more self-sufficient. I was lucky and have spent about a week each in 2 small but interesting groups of people. The daily numbers seemed to be 7-10 people.

On the day before yesterday, I took a short day for a rest and, truthfully, a break from the group. Now I seem to be the only pilgrim around. So, there are waves, but you never know where they will form!

I really appreciate being alone at times and not knowing quite what to expect. For awhile. Today I am wondering if I should try to catch up with some friends, or wait until Salamanca.

Another important point is that it is much better if you are conversational in Spanish, sor you can interact more with locals.

Finally, the option of getting on a bus and going somewhere else is often a good one!

Buen Camino!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Filled albergues, or just about in the larger ones, so lerhaps I'm in a wave. But lots of us walking the shorter etapas with others coming and going who double up to do some in the 30s.

Staying a second night is Zafra to accompany a young man who has developped what appears to be plantar fasciitis, and has asked I stay behind to help with hospitals of need be. My left knee and feet and legs are loving the rest.

A lovely bunch of Camino veterans. So far only one newbie in the lot. No party atmosphere, but good company in the afternoon and evenings. The youngest, other than the teen, is 24 and walking with dad. The rest are young retierees mostly. Met 1 Canadian and 1 American only. No Brits, just NZ and Oz representing angloland.

 

[HappyHiker1007]

I am now in Lisbon and considering where to go next but it won't be back to the VDLP.

I decided to stop just south of Merida due to various personal issues with this particular camino.

The main one was the lack of other people. It's not for me to walk all day alone, and then be in an albergue alone or with just one or two others. I enjoy the caminos for the social side. If I am going to hike alone then it's going to be somewhere a damn sight more scenic.

With the exception of about two people, the rest of the the pilgrims consisited of older gentlemen. My issue here is that I prefer being in a mix of people, rather than just one generation.

I am no spring chicken myself, but due to never having grown up properly (thankfully!) I find it much easier to click with younger people. They will often speak very good English too, whereas the majority of older pilgrims I met spoke little English (I understand it's a generational thing, and I am not knocking anyone for not speaking English!) .

That said, I wouldn't want all young people either. I found the mix of ages on the CF to be perfect, and really missed that on the VDLP. I honestly couldn't see this situation improving as I went north.

The pilgrims on the VDLP tend to be ones who have walked many caminos. It's sometimes nice to be around new pilgrims and share their enthusiasm, rather than being around pilgrims who have been there and done it, and are just seemingly going through the motions.

I have real problems sleeping with others snoring and it was really bad this time, probably due to the fact older guys are usually the main culprets ( yes I snore too!). On the CF the albergue dorms are much bigger and I find that noise from snoring is less of an issue in roomier spaces. The VDLP dorm rooms were often very compact, so any noises were very audible. I barely slept a couple of nights, and that's with industrial strength ear plugs!

So these are my thoughts and of course many will disagree and will have had very different experiences, but I am just being honest and stating why the VDLP was not for me.

I think if I was to walk with a friend then it would have been very different. Maybe it's not the best camino for walking solo. I only met one other person doing it solo. He spoke no English and just drank at least one bottle wine by himself every night. I kind of felt sorry for him, but he seemed happy enough.

Another week on the VDLP and I would have been hittng the bottle too.

Sorry for being negative. I guess many people have a fantastic time on the VDLP, but I was n't one of them.

I feel for you! What a shame we didn't meet - I am walking the VdlP right now (enjoying a couple of rest days for my feet in salamanca) and my goodness it is indeed very lonely! I am not staying in shared accommodation though, rather casas rurales or occasionally an individual room at private hostels as i am a light sleeper so don't do sharing sleeping quarters. This is my first Camino and in the 3 weeks I have seen 6 other pilgrims, for only 15 of the last 504km did I walk with anyone so I really hope that some more people will appear, not least as some places are VERY isolated on this route and I prefer to know there are other people around from a general safety perspective. I admire your courage in stopping if it didn't feel right and not forcing yourself to continue and hope you can find something else to enjoy during the time off you have taken for this trip. Warmest wishes

 

[long trails]

Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated. Just to be clear, I have nothing against walking, talking or being around mature people. I would miss them dearly if everyone was under 40! I just like a balance, in the same way when I stay in hostels, I don't want to be older enough to be everyone else's father, but feel more comfortable around a mix.

I have to say that I am really enjoying being in Lisbon now after rural Spain. I always thought I preferred Spain, but actually I find Portugal to be much more laid back, peaceful and with much more interesting and varied cuisine. My perception is that Portugal is a bit more outward looking than Spain.

Anyway that brings me on to my next Camino. I am leaving for Porto in a couple of days and will be walking up to Santiago. It will be Easter and probably quite busy, perhaps shockingly so after the VDLP, but I will be happy with that, and as someone who is house-less (by design), it enables me some affordable accommodation over the crazy Easter period.

So I will continue over on the Portaguese Camino forum now.

Leaving the VDLP was a tough decision, particularly as I had been planning that walk for so long, but the moment I made my mind up to stop, my mood lifted significantly.

I think the VDLP is work in progress for the lesser experienced pilgrims. Will I go back and finish it one day? Well I think it's more likely than not, but I will be looking for someone to walk with next time, to share awful muddy days, and the awesome ones too.

 

[HappyHiker1007]

That's great you're still on the camino, just a different one, enjoy Portugal and Buen Camino to Santiago!

 

[domigee]

So these are my thoughts and of course many will disagree and will have had very different experiences, but I am just being honest and stating why the VDLP was not for me.
(...)
Sorry for being negative. I guess many people have a fantastic time on the VDLP, but I was n't one of them.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts, @long trails, I found it very interesting because...I didn't enjoy walking the Via de la Plata either. Nor did my husband. We're still at a loss today, nearly two years later, to explain why! In fact we would have given up very early on but we had promised a Spanish couple (who couldn't walk it themselves) to light a candle for them in Santiago so ... we walked on.
We stayed in Sevilla a few days ( and that was wonderful ) but started walking from Merida so roughly 800 km. I am usually a bit sad to reach Santiago but this time we were elated to arrive.
I am only writing this so that, well firstly you don't feel alone! and secondly to give other pilgrims a different view from the usual 'oh it was wonderful!' . Sometimes it just isn't.
I wish you well on your present Camino.

 

[long trails]

Yea I know what you mean about feeling sad about arriving in Santiago, certainly was the case for me, glad to have got there, but a little sad it was over.

I suppose the loneliness was the main factor. To be honest I found the route very easy to follow and it did go through some very scenic parts, but it never really felt like I was on a Camino. It just felt like a pointless long walk much of the time.

You probably did the right thing to miss out the Seville to Merida section. The first two days were not much fun, but that could have been due to the weather. Walking out of Seville was not that nice, but I guess that's the same wit most cities. I remember the walk into Burgos was not nice.