OK, better late than never (I hope
)
I did this walk as planned last month, doing Laurie's Peñalba "loop" and then the bit of the Francés between Villafranca and O Cebreiro (and the mountain variant via Pradela). The second day was really one of the most beautiful walks I have ever done anywhere. It's beyond me why therer is no one at all walking this way, when it so clearly much more beautiful (and certainly more peaceful!) than any bit of the Camino Francés. The Montes Aquiilanos are a glorious area than seems to be completely under the radar. I should mention that in April there was a massive (and deliberately-started) forest fire which has left the whole area between San Cristóbal, Peñalba and Montes de Valdueza completely blackened. I am sure the forest will regenerate eventually, but it is of course an ecological disaster.
First day (Ponferrada - El Acebo (via El Lombillo and Puentes de Malpaso)): a long, hot and fairly arduous climb out of Ponferrada, with no shade. Roadside cherries were nice though
I should mention that this path is not at all well marked, and you really need to keep your wits about you - I went wrong three times! On the long descent to the bridges (before the path meets the one coming from Molinaseca), there is one especially confusing intersection where markings appear to point you upwards - don't do it, like I did!
. In fact, if you are interested in doing this path, I would advise walking first to Molinaseca along the Francés, as the walk via El Lombillo involves plenty of (unnecessary) climbing. IMO Laurie has somewhat exaggerated the beauty of the Puentes - it's a nice green interlude, but absolutely nothing compared with what you will see the next day. The ascent towards the road (and Riego/El Acebo) is not really waymarked at all (though you do have plenty of chance to study the terrain on your descent to the bridges). I was heading for El Acebo (having missed the unmarked Riego turnoff) when I met a huge flock of sheep, followed a few minutes later by a pair of equally huge sheepdogs. I was not brave (or foolhardy?) enough to confront them and walk past, and thought it would be a bad idea to retreat again, where I would find myself among the sheep, so I decided to flee straight up the mountain, figuring the road wasn't far away. I was right, but it was a prickly and thorny 15 minute climb. Fortunately the albergue had a nice selection of local Mencías to accompany my evening tapitas
Second day (El Acebo - Peñalba de Santiago, via Compludo and Bouzas): wow! What a walk! I decided to do this variant of Laurie's walk from one I found on wikilocs, and I would recommend it. I would guess it is even more beautiful, as it hugs the mountains much more closely and goes through more unpopulated areas. From the mill at Herrerías, go up to Compludo (a beautiful village with an ancient church and a couple of bars) rather than to Espinosa de Compludo/San Cristóbal. From Compludo it's a few km uphill along a (deserted) road through chestnut forest to the (almost deserted) hamlet of Palacios de Compludo, where only three people now live (ornithologists). From there a gorgeous and well-marked path through seemingly untouched flower-filled forest, crossing streams with waterfalls, to Bouzas. From there a long walk up the valley on an irregularly-marked path to meet the mountain road (about 1500m above sea level), from where you can see Peñalba nestled far below in the next valley (20 mins down on the piste). Peñalba is a very special village, one of the most beautiful I have ever been to (and I've been to an awful lot in Spain
), with restored ancient houses and a unique 10th century mozárabe church. La Masera is a lovely place to stay (though Pilar is intending to rent the apartment only as a regular holiday let, and not an albergue-type operation). The bar opposite hers is wonderful too - run by an intelligent and cultured man who serves lovely food - and high-quality wine
third day (Peñalba - Ponferrada via Montes de Valdueza): Decided to chill a bit in the morning after visiting the cave of 10th century hermit San Genadio, half an hour's walk away, before breakfast. At midday I walked up a steep path through an unscathed bit of a forest and over a grassy ridge to have lunch by a waterfall on the descent to Montes. The monastery seemed to be closed, so I walked on down towards the main valley. I don't think it makes much difference which path you take down to the river - all the mountain is burnt anyway
From the bottom it's a long (too long!) walk to Ponferrada, partly along the road and partly on parallel paths. Should mention that there is a hot and steep climb between San Esteban and San Lorenzo, just when you don't need such a thing. The walk through old Mencía vineyards (with cherries
) is nice, but by this time you will be just dying to get your boots off and have a shower
fourth day (Ponferrada - Pradela): Got up lateish to find the albergue was entirely deserted
Chilled in Ponferrada and then got a bus to Villafranca, where I had a nice (and long
) lunch in an old convent. From there I walked the mountain variant of the Camino to Pradela - despite locals hanging out around the turismo in Villafranca trying to dissuade me from taking this route - why??
It's a hard slog up out of Villafranca, in any case, but soon flattens out a bit. It's an OK walk, and certainly more interesting than the main Camino, but nothing really special until you get near to Pradela, when the chestnuts appear and it gets more interesting. Pradela is a fascinating village - I didn't think there were still villages in Spain with working burros, and the Albergue Las Lamas is a great place to stay - a really personal experience staying with the family, and quite unlike the commercialisation of most of the Francés. they make great homemade Mencía (from their vineyards near Villafranca - you can't grow grapes up here!) and nice chestnut cake too. 100% recommended!
fifth day (Pradela - Herrerías de Valcarce): Easy day. Lovely walk down from Pradela to rejoin the main Camino at Trabadelo - I did my best to spin this bit out as much as possible
After that, easy and pleasant walk along the old road to Herrerías, where I stayed at the impeccable Casa Lixa. Did a little "side walk" up in the forest above Herrerías in the afternoon. Herrerías is a bit new-agey for my tastes
, but there is a great restaurant there, El Capricho de Josana, where you can have a fabulous plate of pulpo with a good local Godello (yeah, as you have probably realised by now pilgrim menus are not my thing
).
last day (Herrerías - O Cebreiro): as I wasn't going to Santiago, I thought that entering Galicia at the historical entry point of O Cebreiro would be a nice way to finish my walk (and there's a convenient bus service to León (or Santiago) from Pedrafita do Cebreiro, a few km away). So I set off early today, as I had to be in Pedrafita for my bus at half eleven. This is a gorgeous walk, up through the last little villages in Castile, with beautiful views back over the mountains. O Cebreiro was (unsurprisingly) very touristy indeed, but still had plenty of atmosphere, especially the ancient church with all its Camino history. The pallozas were supercute too, of course
From there it was an easy 4 km down to Pedrafita and the main road to catch my bus to León.
Many thanks to Laurie and others who contributed - I'd never even have known the Peñalba loop existed!
