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Shortcut to Santa Lucía del Trampal from Aljucen to Alcuéscar

alansykes

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Time of past OR future Camino
Except the Francés
On my first camino, I did the quite long stage from Mérida to Alcuéscar, and by the time I got to the albergue after c36km was not in the mood to make the 6km return trip out to the lovely Visigothic church of Santa Lucía del Trampal.

So I was looking at wikiloc, and see that it's possible to visit the basilica on the way to Alcuéscar. You turn right on agricultural tracks shortly after the Cruz del Niño Muerto, about 16km from Aljucén, and head across wooden country to the basilica. The path on to Alcuéscar is well marked and easy. The detour adds about 1km to the day, and if you're starting from Aljucén it would be easy to get there while the interior of the church is open (until 2pm, or after 4 or 5pm if coming from Mérida).

It's an astonishingly lovely simple church, and thinking that it survived from before the moorish occupation makes it very special. The setting is serenely lovely as well, with warm springs nearby, and rolling dehesa around it. There is evidence that it was a sacred site before the Romans arrived in Spain.
 
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Oh, this is great! LT you are right about my blabbering on in delight about the church. It is a very nice 3km walk on country roads from the fountain in Alcuéscar´s main square!

I had spent the night in Aljucén, which is only about 16 from Alcuéscar, I think. So the little trip was easy for me. But for anyone walking from Mérida, it would be a very long haul.

I am SO happy to learn of this option, because I will be walking the Mozárabe from Almería in 2018 and will only have a month of walking. :( So I will be hoofing it at the end, probably. I had thought that I would have to go without a visit to Santa Lucía, but this option is absolutely perfect for me.

I know I have added pics before, but it really is special. The church was part of a monastery, and the exhibits inside the church give a lot of interesting information about monastic life and the surrounding social history.

Now I'll just have to make sure I don't wind up walking into Alcuéscar on a Monday!!! Thanks so much, Alan.


Alcuescar.jpg alcuescar2.jpg
 
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And just a ps to add the visiting hours:

Tuesday through Saturday. Mornings: 10 - 2 pm.
Afternoons: 5 pm to 8 pm (from June 15 till September 30) OR 4 - 7 pm (from Oct. 1 till June 14)

Sunday: 10-2 pm

Closed Monday

No charge.

Horario de Visitas: Martes a Sábados: Mañana: de 10 a 14 h, Tarde de 15 de junio a 30 de septiembre: de 17 a 20 h de 1 de octubre a 14 de junio: de 16 a 19 h. Domingos de 10 a 14 h. Lunes cerrado. Entrada gratuita.
 
Alan, you will probably not be surprised to learn that I cannot find those tracks on wikiloc. Can you link to them? I am definitely going to head this way next spring! Buen camino and muchas gracias, Laurie
Hi again,

This wikiloc trail marks the Cruz del Niño Muerto, and it's relatively easy to work out the agricultural tracks on to the basilica https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=12415090
Maps.me seems to have better marked footpaths and gets the same result (the cross is called the Cruz San Juan on maps.me). When I walk that way next month or early November (dv) I will try to upload a proper wikiloc of the full route Aljucén to Alcuéscar via Santa Lucía.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
On Sunday I got my second fix of lovely lovely lonely Santa Lucía del Trampal, deviating to visit it by turning right off the camino shortly before Alcuéscar.

I left Aljucén at dawn, with Jupiter trying to get amorous with Venus in the gathering light. The detour, about 4 hours later, was very pleasant, going up into sweet smelling pine and oak groves with views back to Mérida and on (I think) to Montánchez. I had the church to myself for almost an hour before 2pm closing, also enjoying a couple of delicious bitter tangerines the guard suggested I eat. The simple beauty of the structure, the breathtaking beauty of its surroundings, the rarity of the Visigothic churches that survived the conquista, and the mysterious feeling places get which have been sacred for centuries (and it was a religious site before the Romans arrived). Then, at chucking out time, an hour on to Alcuéscar, a decent lunch, and well earned siesta in the albergue (where the six of us each got our own cell to ourselves). Oh, and perfect walking weather - not a cloud, not a breath, and max temperature of perhaps 20c or a tiny bit more.

I've had some good days on the camino, but that was up there with the best.

This is my wikiloc trail of the detour:

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=20969061
 

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Alan, your prose is so evocative, I know I've used that word to describe your writing before, but I so envy your ability to capture it all in so few words. Thank you so much. (Feel free to keep on describing, even though you are on the Vdlp now, we love reading your impressions even when you are on well-trodden caminos!).

Unfortunately, I cannot "like" this post a million times. Oh how grand. Cannot wait to get back there, hopefully next April. So good to hear you are chugging along, Alan, and I looking forward to seeing where you detour off the Vdlp.

This Santa Lucia church is absolutely five star. And now with this detour, pilgrims can easily see it on their way from Aljucen to Alcuescar! No afternoon walk required. Buen camino, Laurie
 
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Stunning - so annoying that I missed it. Next time...
 
On Sunday I got my second fix of lovely lovely lonely Santa Lucía del Trampal, deviating to visit it by turning right off the camino shortly before Alcuéscar.

I left Aljucén at dawn, with Jupiter trying to get amorous with Venus in the gathering light. The detour, about 4 hours later, was very pleasant, going up into sweet smelling pine and oak groves with views back to Mérida and on (I think) to Montánchez. I had the church to myself for almost an hour before 2pm closing, also enjoying a couple of delicious bitter tangerines the guard suggested I eat. The simple beauty of the structure, the breathtaking beauty of its surroundings, the rarity of the Visigothic churches that survived the conquista, and the mysterious feeling places get which have been sacred for centuries (and it was a religious site before the Romans arrived). Then, at chucking out time, an hour on to Alcuéscar, a decent lunch, and well earned siesta in the albergue (where the six of us each got our own cell to ourselves). Oh, and perfect walking weather - not a cloud, not a breath, and max temperature of perhaps 20c or a tiny bit more.

I've had some good days on the camino, but that was up there with the best.

This is my wikiloc trail of the detour:

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=20969061
Thanks Alan. I'm walking the VldP again in April/May 2018 and I was looking for a detour on this stretch. This looks wonderful. Thanks again for sharing
 
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On Sunday I got my second fix of lovely lovely lonely Santa Lucía del Trampal, deviating to visit it by turning right off the camino shortly before Alcuéscar.

I left Aljucén at dawn, with Jupiter trying to get amorous with Venus in the gathering light. The detour, about 4 hours later, was very pleasant, going up into sweet smelling pine and oak groves with views back to Mérida and on (I think) to Montánchez. I had the church to myself for almost an hour before 2pm closing, also enjoying a couple of delicious bitter tangerines the guard suggested I eat. The simple beauty of the structure, the breathtaking beauty of its surroundings, the rarity of the Visigothic churches that survived the conquista, and the mysterious feeling places get which have been sacred for centuries (and it was a religious site before the Romans arrived). Then, at chucking out time, an hour on to Alcuéscar, a decent lunch, and well earned siesta in the albergue (where the six of us each got our own cell to ourselves). Oh, and perfect walking weather - not a cloud, not a breath, and max temperature of perhaps 20c or a tiny bit more.

I've had some good days on the camino, but that was up there with the best.

This is my wikiloc trail of the detour:

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=20969061
This looks so beautiful Thanks for sharing. I will try to see it.
 
The detour adds about 1km to the day,
Alan,
I am just looking at stages and trying to figure out how to make sure to take your detour to return to Santa Lucía when I walk the Mozárabe.

Your wikiloc tracks say the distance from Aljucén to Alcuéscar via Santa Lucía is 28.

But gronze says Aljucén to Alcuéscar on camino with no detour is only 19.6.

So obviously there is something out of whack, any idea what I am missing here?

Thanks, Laurie
 
So obviously there is something out of whack
I am looking at my tracks on my phone and it doesn't look like the Santa Lucia route could be more than about 3 km longer than the direct route.

That said, my notes say it is 21.8 km (not your 19.6) from Aljucen to Alcuescar, and my diversion through Santa Lucia shows 27 km (not your 28), so that would reduce the discrepancy by about 3 km. Now we have only 3 km missing!
 
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Thanks, @C clearly, I was hoping I might be able to walk beyond Alcuéscar that day. Even if it's only 27 via Santa Lucía, the next possible stop after Alcuéscar is Aldea de Cano, which is another 15.5 more. So that would be pushing it.
 
I have just walked this route. I couldn't see the way to the detour described by Alan. There are conflicting yellow arrows, but no signs refer to the Church. I walked into Alcuescar, dropped of my pack, and took a taxi to the Church for €12. It is 4 kms and the driver is happy to wait whilst you look round.
 
SUCCESS!! Alan’s tracks worked like a charm. I would not recommend doing this without a GPS because there is no marking and there are many intersections where I would not have known which of two lovely dirt tracks to take. I got to Alcuéscar at about 1 and decided I didn’t want to spend the night in the monastery. I did not think those men were getting very good treatment-nothing abusive, but it just felt very sad and “off” to me. So 15 more km on flat ground and pretty boring (well, except for all the Roman milarios and bridges). Got to the Albergue in Aldea de and am glad to have a very short day to Caceres tomorrow to enjoy myself!
 
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Pilgrims need not have any interaction with the disabled men. When we arrived in the late afternoon, the men were all being taken in wheelchairs to a nearby park by volunteers, I think, to enjoy the sunshine. The albergue itself is very nice and is looked after by hospitaleros who have nothing to do with the other part of the monastery. The facilities are fine, with separate ablutions for men and women, a nice common room and a couple of rooms with only 2 beds. (We did think the few clerics around the place were rather haughty or too proud to speak to us!)
 
Pilgrims need not have any interaction with the disabled men. When we arrived in the late afternoon, the men were all being taken in wheelchairs to a nearby park by volunteers, I think, to enjoy the sunshine. The albergue itself is very nice and is looked after by hospitaleros who have nothing to do with the other part of the monastery. The facilities are fine, with separate ablutions for men and women, a nice common room and a couple of rooms with only 2 beds. (We did think the few clerics around the place were rather haughty or too proud to speak to us!)
I don’t disagree with what you say about the Albergue, Margaret. I’ve stayed there twice. The first time I was up in the big room. The second time I had a lovely catalana hospitalera, and she gave me a private room on the lower floor so it was a great accommodation. But that was when I saw what I would describe as sub-par treatment of several of the residents, and it just creeped me out. I just didn’t want to be associated with that place. Maybe that’s unfair of me based on one experience, but it was a good motivator for me to walk another 15 kms!

The Albergue in Aldea Del Cano btw is good. It’s just a very short detour off Camino, no more than 300 m. About ten beds in three rooms. And 6 or 8 mattresses to spread out in case of overflow. Last night we were 7.
 
Alan,
I am just looking at stages and trying to figure out how to make sure to take your detour to return to Santa Lucía when I walk the Mozárabe.

Your wikiloc tracks say the distance from Aljucén to Alcaruésr via Santa Lucía is 28.

But gronze says Aljucén to Alcuéscar on camino with no detour is only 19.6.

So obviously there is something out of whack, any idea what I am missing here?

Thanks, Laurie
I think the reason my wikiloc tracks appear to make it seem so much longer are: a) I detoured to the fuente de Tampal to fill up my bottle (?1/2 a km extra), b) I forgot to turn wikiloc off when I was at the church, so it recorded the 40-60 minutes I spent ambling around the site (?an extra 1.5km), c) I took a wrong turn off the road after the church (?an extra 1/2km), d) I forgot to turn it off when I got to Alcuéscar, so it recorded me popping in to a couple of bars etc before deciding where to have lunch (?an extra 1.5km). So that's 4km more than if I hadn't done those things, which would bring the total down to 24km, 4 more than the direct route, which I think makes sense.
 
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I went by the other day, but wasn't watching and I missed the turnoff. Being lazy and/or tired, I chose not to go back. Maybe next time!
 
I went by the other day, but wasn't watching and I missed the turnoff. Being lazy and/or tired, I chose not to go back. Maybe next time!
NOOOOOOO
It is a wonderful walk and a real treat to visit. I talked with a man in a cart who was cutting cork. It’s a bit up and down but a gorgeous detour. Anyone who wants to do it , though, should have Alan’s GPS tracks because the route is not obvious.
 
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I walked this way a couple of weeks ago and took the detour to visit this church. It was closed when I got there and I had to climb over the wall to have a look around. I made a map based on the route I followed.
 

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I walked this way a couple of weeks ago and took the detour to visit this church. It was closed when I got there and I had to climb over the wall to have a look around. I made a map based on the route I followed.
Oh, no! I hope it wasn’t because the visiting hours I posted were wrong! When I came to the church, I saw that a big wooden gate was closed and I was bummed. But I then saw that the car entrance was open further on, and yes indeed the center and church were both open. You must be much more agile than I, geraldkelly, no way I could have gotten over that gate.

I used Alan’s wikiloc tracks, and they were great, but without them I never would have gotten there. Too many bifurcations, no markings. Did you walk without a GPS?
 
I just followed what looked like the most obvious route on openstreetmaps and it brought me straight there. That's the route I added to the map above.

I actually got over the wall, not the gate. I think it was a Monday and someone told me they're closed on Mondays.
 
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Most museums are closed on Mondays, of course. There is a small museum on the site.
 
On my first camino, I did the quite long stage from Mérida to Alcuéscar, and by the time I got to the albergue after c36km was not in the mood to make the 6km return trip out to the lovely Visigothic church of Santa Lucía del Trampal.

So I was looking at wikiloc, and see that it's possible to visit the basilica on the way to Alcuéscar. You turn right on agricultural tracks shortly after the Cruz del Niño Muerto, about 16km from Aljucén, and head across wooden country to the basilica. The path on to Alcuéscar is well marked and easy. The detour adds about 1km to the day, and if you're starting from Aljucén it would be easy to get there while the interior of the church is open (until 2pm, or after 4 or 5pm if coming from Mérida).

It's an astonishingly lovely simple church, and thinking that it survived from before the moorish occupation makes it very special. The setting is serenely lovely as well, with warm springs nearby, and rolling dehesa around it. There is evidence that it was a sacred site before the Romans arrived in Spain.
Got your track from Wikiloc, hope to be there in 9 days or so, yipeeeee! that is a great idea, it makes just the perfect stage between Aljucén and Alcuéscar, 28 km, including the stop to admire that stunning place, un millon de gracias, Allansykes!!!
 
Thank you ever so much for posting this information! The church looks beautiful, really special. Fingers crossed I can find it.
 
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Got your track from Wikiloc, hope to be there in 9 days or so, yipeeeee! that is a great idea, it makes just the perfect stage between Aljucén and Alcuéscar, 28 km, including the stop to admire that stunning place, un millon de gracias, Allansykes!!!
Amancio, it’s a great little detour. GPS tracks essential, though, because there are many twists and turns and nothing marked until you get close to the church. I remember when the church first appeared and I saw a big gate locked shut. My heart sank, but I continued on another minute or two and saw that the main entrance with the car park was in fact open. WHEW! Such a beautiful place.

P.s. When are you starting and from where? Buen camino, abrazos, Laurie
 
Amancio, it’s a great little detour. GPS tracks essential, though, because there are many twists and turns and nothing marked until you get close to the church. I remember when the church first appeared and I saw a big gate locked shut. My heart sank, but I continued on another minute or two and saw that the main entrance with the car park was in fact open. WHEW! Such a beautiful place.

P.s. When are you starting and from where? Buen camino, abrazos, Laurie
In Villafranca today, a few towns are over booked, hard to find bed at Times, but la plata is still unique!
 
This diversion is absolutely delightful, not only for the extremely old and particular church, but also because it goes through some beautiful patches of forest. I cannot believe the official camino is not detoured via Santa Lucía, it would only take 4 or 5 arrows, that is it, and the views from the hills towards the South are magnificent. Definitely worht it, great job, thanks a million ALAN!!!!
 
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This diversion is absolutely delightful, not only for the extremely old and particular church, but also because it goes through some beautiful patches of forest. I cannot believe the official camino is not detoured via Santa Lucía, it would only take 4 or 5 arrows, that is it, and the views from the hills towards the South are magnificent. Definitely worht it, great job, thanks a million ALAN!!!!

Great to hear from you, @amancio, and I agree with your assessment completely. Did you do this detour without a GPS? I was really glad to have Alan’s tracks because I remember a few counter-intuitive twists and turns. I met an elderly man with a donkey pulling a wagon full of cork and had a very nice long chat about nothing much at all.

Are you in Alcuéscar now?
 
Great to hear from you, @amancio, and I agree with your assessment completely. Did you do this detour without a GPS? I was really glad to have Alan’s tracks because I remember a few counter-intuitive twists and turns. I met an elderly man with a donkey pulling a wagon full of cork and had a very nice long chat about nothing much at all.

Are you in Alcuéscar now?
Hi Laurie! I am now back home after 3 weeks in La Plata! I would not have done this without Alan's track and my mobile phone GPS, but the detour would be extremely easy to signpost, just a few arrows, 4 or 5 maybe, would do the trick!

I was telling your man at the Santa Lucia visitor center, and how both towns, Aljucén and Alcuéscar, would benefit from signposting this amazing alternative route, because it would mean more pilgrims staying in Aljucén and Alcuéscar.

It would be SO EASY, really, and the alternative route is already worth it by itself because of the landscape, let alone because of the odd Santa Lucía, I cannot understand why the Camino does not follow that path.

Just back for a few days, dreaming about coming back soon!
 
Three times we have been walking this part of Via de la Plata, passing without visiting Santa Lucia. But this March, the fourth time, we did the detour! I found the GPS track at Wicilok, and had no problems finding our way.
Go there! It was a great experience. It was like visiting San Pedro de la Nave at Via de la Plata Portugues.
 

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I walked this way again today, visiting one of my favourite sites (and sights) in Spain for the third time. Because my wikiloc trail is not that good (follows where I went off trail looking for water etc), this time I recorded it on the new Garmin watch my son gave me for Christmas. I made sure not to do any detours from the trail, so it's now pretty accurate between leaving the bar in the dark at Aljucén shortly before 8am, and arriving near the albergue in Alcuéscar shortly before lunch. Another very pleasant day, although over 30C in mid October is hotter than I like (I complained to my son and he said it was in the 30s on the Scottish border where we live. Admittedly, 30s fahrenheit).


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Hello. Could you share your opinion about your Garmin watch GPS? I am considering purchasing one but have no idea which one. Thanks. I am glad you are having good weather so far. October is a Good month.
 
For those of us who are wikiloc-only tracks people, I just wanted to assure you that Alan’s wikiloc tracks from an earlier detour are perfectly navigable.

 
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