SJPDP vs Roncesvalles & getting there from Canada

[boltauzer]

My first post & query. My wife Wendy and I plan to walk Camino Frances in September / October next year. I would very much appreciate advice from the experienced pellegrinos as to what is the significance or substance, spiritual or otherwise, between the two most popular starting points: Saint Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles? Also, I would be truly grateful if somebody could tell me what is the least troublesome and the least expensive route to reach either of the two aforementioned starting points from Canada. Many thanks in advance to any and all replies. B.J. from Muskoka, Ontario, Canada

 

[Thornley]

Hi BJ,

We flew from Oz , on our selected flight and arrived in Paris at 6am.

We had a connecting flight @ 7.30 am to Lyon.
We only had carry on luggage [ our backpacks ] and it was very easy.

From Lyon the bus takes you to the station and from there you have a lovely train trip to Le Puy.

Your accommodation in France will be mostly B and B's and they are great.

Please consider carrying the back pack BJ.
It will make life easier and thats what the Camino teaches .We have too many things that are not important . Your appearance will not worry anybody in France or Spain and at the end you will find the lovely clothing shops that allow you to leave the old trusted polo shirts with the alberque in Finasterre for the pilgrims arriving in winter.
And Merrells are the way on the feet..

Good planning and keep well,
David

 

[Thornley]

Sorry about the previous letter Bj it was meant for Guy who is starting in Le Puy.

When we did the Francis we flew from Australia to Paris and then to Biarritz.
If your plane lands in Heathrow then like wise.

From Biarritz bus [2 euros] to Bayonne and then the train to St. John Pied de Port.
You would regret not starting there mate.

Keep well and good luck,
David

 

[suzie morgs]

Hi Muskoka,
It is easy from Barcelona as well. We caught the early morning express train from Barcelona, 4.5 hours (Euros 50) and we were in Pamplona. We stayed the night and Caroline (Espress Burricott - link available from this forum) picked us up at the door of our accommodation in Pamplona and delivered us to the door of our Albergue un SJPdP an hour and a half later (E30 each with our packs- price may vary depending on number in the van). We could have been picked up directly from the station in Pamplona and made it from Barcelona to SJ easily in one day thanks to Caroline.
The walk over the pyrennes from SJPdP, weather permitting, is something you'd probably regret not doing if you had the choice. We had bad weather and had to take the road route for a while, but we are glad to have started there and experience the rewarding walk. Be guided by the wisdom of the forum.


Suzie

 

[DylanRomero]

The Pyrenees are too beautiful to pass up, in my opinion.

And look at it this way: if you start in SJPDP, you will experience the greatest climb in elevation the Camino has to offer. Everything is (almost literally) downhill from there. If you can complete the first day, you gain the mental edge knowing you can take on any hill along the Camino.

 

[skilsaw]

SJPP to Roncesvalles is a landmark experience, and later on, discussing your journey with others, they will ask, "Roncesvalles or SJPP?" You will say "SJPP" and they will nod knowingly. If you answer "Roncesvalles", they will cluck their tongue and shake their head. And you will never know what you missed. But you missed a day that is indelibly stamped in the memory of those who do it.

If the weather cooperates, take the high route. If not, the road route is OK too.

Buen Camino,
David, Victoria, Canada

 

[Senyor Pirotecnic]

+1 for SJPP. Amazing how many people, Spaniards mostly, who start from Roncesvalles and miss out on one of the most spectacular days on the entire Camino Frances. Is it because they have to cross the border into France? :|

 

[sillydoll]

what is the significance or substance, spiritual or otherwise, between the two most popular starting points: Saint Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles?

They are both places pilgrims passed through on their way to Santiago. Neither were actual starting places.
Pilgrims coming from further north passed through St Jean to reach Roncesvalles and Spain. Few Camino Frances guide books prior to the late 1990's started stage one in France. Spanish pilgrims rarely bother to start in France - unless they enjoy en extra day's walk in the mountains.

There are two routes from St Jean. Via Val Carlos (valley of Charlemagne) through the Ibaneta Pass (1057m) or on the Route Napoleon through the Col de Lepoeder (1440m). Neither are as high as the Cruz de Ferro (1504m) or the summit after Manjarin which at 1517m is the highest place on the camino Frances. The difference is that the climb from St Jean (163m) to the Col at 1440m) is much more severe than the walk in the Irago mountains.

You could fly to London or Paris and get a cheap flight to Biarritz and a train/bus to St Jean.

 

[Roamer35]

Hello BJ,
This is how I got to Roncesvalles from Canada in April 2009:
Air Canada Saskatoon - Toronto - Madrid.
Overnight in Madrid.
Train from Atocha Station Madrid to Pamplona leavess about 8 a.m.
Arrive Pamploma about noon.
Taxi to bus station, although it is within walking distance and there is lots of time.
Bus leaves for Roncesvalles and takes about an hour-and-a-half.

There is a six-hour wait in Pamplona. Long time but there is much to see in the immediate vicinity of the bus station.
If I were to do it again I would inquire about flying from Madrid to Pamploma. It might eliminate the need to overnight in Madrid. If you take the train it would be worthwhile going to the Atocha Station the day before and find the waiting room and platform the train departs from. I found it pretty confusing.

Buen camino
LG

 

[Canuck]

There is also a bus service direct Pamplona SJPDP, now with CONDA SA, leaving at 1400 hrs everyday.

 

[sillydoll]

Yes - but only in July and August this year:

The bus company Conda in Navarra reports that it will launch a new bus service linking Pamplona with the French town of Saint Jean Pied de Port, which is the most common starting point for the so-called French Road to Santiago de Compostela. With this new service CONDA wants to facilitate travel to Saint Jean Pied de Port for the many pilgrims who come to Pamplona to perform their pilgrimage on the occasion of the celebration of the Xacobeo year. The service will be a daily departure at 14:00 from the bus station in Pamplona reaching the French town at 15:30. It will Operate from 1 July to 31 August and the fare is 10 euros.

 

[valleyo]

Hello BJ,

If you fly from Toronto in September in order to get to SJPP, my first choice probably would be London, the second - Paris or Madrid.

From London Stansted, there is a daily short flight to Biarritz operated by Ryanair (http://www.ryanair.com), also when flying back, there is a Ryanair flight from Santiago Compostela to London Stansted.

There is a night train from Paris to Bayonne and Irun with couchettes (Corail-Lunea)

I agree with all the posts above - the stage from SJPP to Roncesvailles is not to be missed!

Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree about starting in St. Jean if you can, that day over the Pyrenees is pretty special. When you make your travel plans from Canada, one thing to consider is getting home again at the end of the Camino. If you are going to fly into Spain, the train to Pamplona and then the taxi over to St. Jean is probably the way to go. But I would suggest flying into Madrid rather than Barcelona. Madrid is actually closer to Pamplona than Barcelona is, and at the end of the trip, getting from Santiago to Madrid is a lot shorter than Santiago to Barcelona.

Of course with all these cheap airlines, you might also find it easier to fly to London as someone has suggested and then get a short flight to France. And then the return, Santiago to London, is also pretty cheap.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[mrbillyto]

Hi B.J.
I certainly don't mean to contradict Valleyo in their earlier post but, it was actually cheaper to fly to Paris or Madrid this year. I have been keeping an eye on the flights to all 3 destinations London, Paris and Madrid (on Air Transat from Toronto) for the past couple of months. Actually, Madrid was the cheapest for the time period I was watching but they stop flying at the end of September. Paris is a very close second price wise and they fly Toronto-Paris pretty much year round.

In September 2009, I flew Toronto to Paris on Air Transat, did the overnight in Paris staying at an relatively inexpensive but clean hotel near the Montparnasse train station and then the next day, took the train from Paris to St Jean Pied de Port (via Bayonne). Then I did the overnight in SJPdP and started my Camino the next day. This gave me 2 decent nights sleep before starting out. I was traveling around Spain and France after my Camino so I purchased a Eurail pass before I left Canada and it was much cheaper than buying individual leg train tickets.

My vote would be to start in SJPdP. I have to be honest, that first day to Roncesvalles was pure misery but the scenery and sense of accomplishment outweighed all the pain and suffering (a couple of weeks later after the pain subsided, not at the time).

I am hoping to return to Spain in September 2011 to do some volunteer work and to walk the few legs I had to skip ahead on due to my schedule, so I might see you there!

Buen Camino!
Bill

 

[suekenney]

Muskoka,
It seems you have received many answers about travel. I live near Muskoka and will be selling my books at the Rosseau Farmer's Market on Friday August 20th from 9-2pm if you want to come by.
Sue

 

[cecelia]

Hi BJ,
As Sue has just pointed out, there are many alternatives. I live on the west coast of BC and have made the trip to the camino in several ways. My preferred route is a direct flight to London with a short trip to Biarritz on the next available flight. I overnight in Biarritz or sometimes overnight twice to help with jetlag. There are quite a few inexpensive two star hotels in Biarritz that are perfectly nice and there's also a great hostel a short walk (3 or 4 blocks) from the train station. Then I take an early train to SJPP, an hour or two ride and go to the Pilgrims' Office to get my credencial (obviously not necessary if you have one from Canada). I buy bread and cheese or whatever for lunch, nuts and dried fruit for snacks, fill my water bottle and set off.
By the time I've finished puttering around it's about noon so I purposely walk only up to Orisson (8-10 km) or Huntto (5-6km) that day. It doesn't sound like it's very far but if it's your first day of walking you may find that it is plenty because it's UP all the way! It makes the next day (16-17km) much easier and an extra side benefit (for me at least as I walk alone) is that it gives me an opportunity to meet about 20 other pilgrims around a dinner table (the price of these two albergues includes dinner and I believe breakfast). Of course many of those pilgrims meet over and over along the way and, it seems, are always pleased to see an 'old friend'.
After the camino I fly from Santiago to London - Iberia, Ryan Air and others have direct flights and then take a direct flight home. Try not to overnight in London unless you are going right into the city to stay for a couple of days. The hotels around the airport are extremely expensive for awful rooms and the breakfast food is unbelievably horrible unless you pay a fortune.
So - to get back to your question - SJPP or Roncesvalles? - for me it's definitely SJPP. It was a hard climb for me the first time (I was 59 and not in great shape) but surprisingly not as hard the second and third times.
Buen camino, Cecelia

 

[alipilgrim]

Beware of flying into London in that most of the cheap flights to Spain fly out of Stansted, so you are faced with getting from Gatwick or Heathrow over to this airport. In my experience I found I had to allow for several hours to make the connection, not to mention the $$ bus connecting the airports. On the return from Santiago, I had to sleep overnight in Gatwick as I had 6 hours in the middle of the night to wait for my connection. I strongly suggest a direct flight to Madrid to avoid this hassle.