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SJPP to Roncesvalles – in praise of the lower route

I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).

I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.

Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
 
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Thanks for the update on the Valcarlos route.
I'm planning another SJPP start in October 2013 and will now give a bit more consideration to this option.
Col
 
I have to wholeheartedly agree! I walked the Valcarlos route in October and loved it. It is quite different from the high road, but every bit as beautiful. And if you are worried about missing out on a steep climb over the Pyrenees, don't worry - the last 6 kms up to the Ibaneta pass are quite steep. You WILL get in your exercise!

If you'd like to see what the Valcarlos route looks like, I've posted some photos here:
http://thecaminoexperience.com/caminodesantiagophotossjpptoroncesvalles.php. I show a mix of both the high and low roads, but the photos are labeled so you know which ones are through Valcarlos.

You can also see some fantastic footage of the Valcarlos route in this 26-minute documentary: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvCnc3_TCJI&feature=youtu.be

The albergue in Valcarlos was recently remodeled, and it is quite nice. The night I was there I shared the 12-bed dorm with only two other people, neither of whom I had seen on the trail. To get access to the albergue, go to the first bar you come to for directions and the door code. The hospitalero comes in the evening to collect the fee, stamp credentials, and set up the coffee for the morning.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I have walked both routes and also stayed in Val Carlos at a private home with 'habitaciones/zimmers' to let.
There is much more off-road walking now than there was in 2002 which is probably when Breirley took his photographs.
Although the first part is not as steep as the Route Napoleon, the last section rises very sharply and is much steeper that the cross country route. Both routes meet at the Ibaneta Pass.
 

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On all my caminos I have walked the Valcarlos alternative; it is the ONLY way open in snow. The new municipal albergue is VERY comfortable with good heat, blankets and showers. You can reserve in advance if you wish. For more info see http://www.luzaide-valcarlos.net/. On October 16 two other pilgrims and I cosily spent the chilly night before tediously climbing up to Ibaneta and continuing to Roncevalles the next day. That stretch is NEVER easy!
 
Having cancelled the high road in April on advice from the pilgrim office due to very bad weather conditions we opted for the Valcarlos route. I must say I enjoyed it very much, nice easy walking for the most part. We were to stay in Valcarlos but having arrived there at 11.00am we decided to press on and after the steep climb on the last part we finally arrived in Roncevalles at 16.30. We met some lovely people on the way and indeed travelled with them on and off all the way to Santiago. It was lovely to meet them all over a two day period in the Cathedral and in the Plaza. It is a lovely route with great scenery even though the rain was heavy for most of it.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I'm also a fan of that route, although I have never walked the Napoleon route so can't compare.

I'm always banging on about building flexibility into your Camino, especially if you're a novice walker, or unsure about kit or fitness. This route has more accommodation/eating options, and staying in Valcarlos splits the first stage to Roncesvalles neatly in half.

The downside is the 6km stretch along the road after Valcarlos, but it wasn't too bad when I was there last year (it was Good Friday though, so perhaps quieter than usual). More like one car every 5 minutes than the traffic jam depicted in Brierley. Just make yourself visible. :D

Buen Camino!
 
Having hiked over the Napolean route in April this year (we didnt mean too, we took a wrong turn), I could never imagine doing the valcarlos route. That first day over the pyrenees is still my favourite day of the whole 790km, it simply blew me away.

I'm happy that the alternative comes with such good recommendations though, I know I felt very dissapointed when the PIlgrim office told us not to go over the mountain because of the bad weather (but as i said we ended up doing it unintentionally) so its nice to know that people can still enjoy the alternative.
 
We also took a wrong turn at Arneguy, we went left at the junction but luckily we met another pilgrim coming back against us after a short distance who told us that this way joined the Napoleon further on so we backtracked and took the right fork. This was on 20th April, this year.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Delighted to read these as we are booked into Valcarlos - good to know that the pains will be balanced by the pleasantries!
 
Perhaps if poor weather hits me in SJPP again i'll try this route instead. Going over the Napoleon on in April 2011 I missed seeing everything that I'd heard so many good things about, as I couldn't see more than 10m in front of me... you heard people before you saw them!
 

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Nice to hear about all your experiences or plans for the future. I wrote and received a reply from the lovely John Brierley, who plans to update the Valcarlos/lower route information in his next edition to reflect its true beauty. His books are such a service to the community/planet :D I love this area so much I plan to return and do a loop from SJPP to Ronscavelles via the high and back via the low, spending more time in the little areas along the way. Blessings everyone!
 
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In Sept 2011, my husband and I did both sides of the Pyrenees. We left Roncesvalles and went over the Pyrenees to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The next day we returned using the lower route. I found that the lower route was not well marked, or was marked in Basque, which I could not read.

In spite of this, we did well until just before Varcarlos. New to the Camino and unaccustomed to looking for the yellow markers, we missed the markings on the sign directing us over the bridge and into Spain. Can you understand why? See photo.

2011-09-09-confusinging-sign-near-varcarlos.jpg


After ascending 7 kilometers (4.5 mi) on the wrong mountain, we were "rescued" by trail angels, who drove us down to the turnoff. There, the gentleman informed us that he used to work on this corner and was always whistling to pilgrims who missed the sign and redirecting them. Yet, the sign is unchanged. This man and women were very kind and one of the first times that the Camino provided for us...I am still grateful to them for their kindness.
 
Is wayfarer's wrong turn at Arneguy the same as k-fun's mistake just before Valcarlos ... or are there two places to get lost?
 
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sergeantmajormammy said:
Is wayfarer's wrong turn at Arneguy the same as k-fun's mistake just before Valcarlos ... or are there two places to get lost?
To be honest, I thought the only place you could really go wrong is just upon leaving SJPP, where you turn off to the right for Valcarlos and straight on for the Napoleon route. After that I think they're totally separate - one route through the valley and the other over the hill. I can't really see how you would start on one and end up on the other. Someone will correct me, though. Buen Camino!

p.s. I did make k-fun's mistake and missed the markers just before Valcarlos. It isn't well marked at that point (or wasn't when I was there anyway). A slight detour!
 
My wrong turn was on the outskirts of a hamlet and double checking google maps it was definately at Arneguy. The yellow arrow points both left and right, I somehow got it in my head that it was to the left but as I said we met a fellow pilgrim after a few mts who was on his way back after taking the same turn. He said that the road led eventualy to the Napoleon.
https://maps.google.ie/maps?hl=en&ll=43 ... 68,,0,-1.2
See snap of street view.
 

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So, in your opinion (all those who posted), which route was more scenic?
Valcarlos or the High route?

This is probably a hard decision so.... which had LESS road walking?
 
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Camino2014 said:
So, in your opinion (all those who posted), which route was more scenic?
Valcarlos or the High route?
I suspect it's down to the weather on the day you're there and whether you can see anything (see Lindsey's post above)! At best probably the high route is most scenic (from what others have told me), but you have to balance that with everything else. Buen Camino!
 
I have never walked "the low road"..But I am now considering for my upcoming pilgrimage this June.
At a brisk-ish pace, how many hours from SJPP to Valcarlos? I was thinking of walking through to Ronc. and stopping for a picnic somewhere...Is this route less physically taxing than the Napoleon?
 
We left StJPP at 08.20 and arrived in Valcarlos at 11.10. I walk regularly but my brother is not a walker so the pace was easygoing. After a break we decided to head for Roncevalles and arrived there between 1600 and 16.30.
I havent walked the Napoleon yet so I dont know how hard it is.
 
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Thanks Wayfarer, sounds a good day-walk...
The Napolean Way may be for your next pilgrimage?
 
Both routes are scenic, but in different ways - one is up high in the sky with sweeping vistas, and the other is through a valley with lush forests and a couple of picturesque Spanish towns. The low road has more car traffic, for sure, but I didn't find it dangerous or even daunting in October 2012.

Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.
 
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nreyn12 said:
Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.


Great idea - thanks Nancy.
 
Brilliant Nancy, a great idea. I'm sure it will add a confidence factor. I have been know to miss a sign because I was in a camino dream! :lol:
allan
 
nreyn12 said:
Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.


Besides following Nancy's useful advice and photographing the SJPdP Pilgrim Office map be sure to pick up a paper copy of their route map to Roncevalles which shows both the Napoleon and Valcarlos paths. It is freely handed out by the helpful volunteer staff at 39 rue de La Citadelle. As I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread the Valcarlos route is the ONLY safe option in bad weather. Nevertheless, it is not a walk in the park and the steep ascent up to Ibaneta can be VERY tiring.

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith
 
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mspath said:
Nevertheless, it is not a walk in the park and the steep ascent up to Ibaneta can be VERY tiring.
So true! And be sure to be loaded up with water when you leave Valcarlos, as there is only one tap between there and Roncesvalles - and it's labeled as unsanitary. I drank from it and didn't have a problem, fortunately, but I did hesitate and weigh the odds against inevitable dehydration!

Nancy
 
Just a quick question but if I arrive in SJPP around midday would I be able to reach Valcarlos refuge that same afternoon? I am unsure what the distance is but I understand it to be a fairly gentle section.
 
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When you arrive at 'the center' of Valcarlos by the church and in front of the municipal offices you will see a large sign for the albergue. In the municipal building go upstairs to the Secretary's office to obtain the digicode to open and enter the nearby albergue door. The hospitalero comes by about 6pm.

Buen Camino,
Margaret Meredith
 
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Thank you. It sounds like it is do-able so long as I set off by around 2pm ish. I think I'll also see what the conditions are like, if it's a really murky day with poor visibility I may decide to wait until the next morning, if it's bright I will take advantage and get walking.

I have been reading the girlsontheway.com blog (which is great by the way, check it out) and they walked the country roads to Valcarlos not the highway. That sounds more attractive and safer if there is less traffic so I might see if the SJPP office has a map of these "country roads" as I hadn't heard of this option before.

Thanks again for your help, I have just a week and a half to go!
Cate
 
falcon269 said:
they walked the country roads to Valcarlos not the highway
They are one and the same!
Yes, it's after Valcarlos that you hit the main road. Buen Camino!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).

I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.

Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
I read through his book daily it seems but I have made a point of researching all the alternate routes because I'm sure its just a preference thing for him. I like going where most don't. I could easily see myself walking many of the alternate routes if they lead me to buildings or historical sights I just must see. I'm ok with making this my own journey and not a carbon copy. Also for me I have to think about the long haul. in my 40's and have a back that needs to be babied due to injury and now a knee issue which has just popped up since deciding on a date (how untimely). I WANT to walk the whole way so sometimes NOT doing the steep climbs and descents is what will probably keep me going all the way to Finisterre.
 
I read through his book daily it seems but I have made a point of researching all the alternate routes because I'm sure its just a preference thing for him. I like going where most don't. I could easily see myself walking many of the alternate routes if they lead me to buildings or historical sights I just must see. I'm ok with making this my own journey and not a carbon copy. Also for me I have to think about the long haul. in my 40's and have a back that needs to be babied due to injury and now a knee issue which has just popped up since deciding on a date (how untimely). I WANT to walk the whole way so sometimes NOT doing the steep climbs and descents is what will probably keep me going all the way to Finisterre.
Patti,

I agree with you! I read JB's guidebook daily and realized I was looking at his preferences! I, too, am going the road less travelled on my journey.:rolleyes: The posts I have read posts from Pilgrims who did just that and they were overjoyed with their experiences!
 
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lol...Im so emotional about it all the time! I can't read maps or research without breaking down cause I'm not there yet then when I think of leaving it is overwhelming! I just gotta get there...I can't breathe sometimes thinking about how badly I gotta get there...
 
That is me! I wake up in the night and start my packing list in my head! I know my boss will be happy to see me do this, but I still think,"how on earth can I be gone that long?!" I keep telling myself that just posting that I am going, well, then....I have too!!! tough on the emotions and very had to explain.....
 
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Oh well alright then, maybe I'll try the Valcarlos Route. This is quite a comedown for me as I am a great advocate of the Route Napoleon due to its stunning scenery which was a Camino highlight for me. Would a drive over in a car count?
 

These were amazing video's of a young couple with their infant baby walking the "alternate route"...Its fabulous!... The footage shows how quiet and serene it us and its going to be beautiful in the early autumn I'm going to love it! And I'm pretty sure they were joking about shimmying across the little valley!
 
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lol...Im so emotional about it all the time! [...] I just gotta get there...I can't breathe sometimes thinking about how badly I gotta get there...

Wait until you once finish the Camino and return home... Then real breathing problems starts because most probably you'll want to go back as soon as possible :D
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
We have been talking this over too .. Valcarlos vs Napoleon. Haven't decided yet . The idea is to go the distance , yet I read that the fall out from injuries on the Napoleon due to how strenious it is are frequent resulting in "end of the trip" scenerios. The fall leaves would be great , but the vista from the Napoleon heights are pulling me in that direction .. love these kind of decisons
 
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We have been talking this over too .. Valcarlos vs Napoleon. Haven't decided yet . The idea is to go the distance , yet I read that the fall out from injuries on the Napoleon due to how strenious it is are frequent resulting in "end of the trip" scenerios. The fall leaves would be great , but the vista from the Napoleon heights are pulling me in that direction .. love these kind of decisons
But it is part of the Camino too! I have the same pull but the decision has to be made upon going. I think...meditate or pray about it!
 
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My concern is booking Orisson then not being able to take that route. It's such a dilemma but a fun and exciting one.
Alex
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
2004%25202.JPG


Here is a modern print depicting Charlemagne mounted finding Roland dead in August 778 on the Valcarlos route near Roncevalles. (For a further description of this scene see this Roncevalles monastery history page) Hence the village of Valcarlos was named in honor of Carlos ie. Charlemagne.

It may come as a surprise but the Valcarlos route was THE original medieval pilgrims' path through the mountains and pass to Roncevalles; the present Napoleon camino over the mountains to Roncevalles is later.

This past winter/spring the Napoleon route from SJPdP to Roncevalles was filled with several meters of snow and in effect closed to pilgrims thus necessitating the use of the Valcarlos alternate. You can read about this hazardous situation in the Forum topic. >> http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/el-camino-frances/topic16961.html

Whatever the season always ask for advice at the SJPdP Pilgrim office before setting out on either route !

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith
 
My concern is booking Orisson then not being able to take that route. It's such a dilemma but a fun and exciting one.
Alex
No need to worry about that. If you change your mind at Orisson or if the weather get really bad, the owners of Orisson can arrange transportation to Valcarlos as they did on several occasions in the past.

Ultreia!
 
No need to worry about that. If you change your mind at Orisson or if the weather get really bad, the owners of Orisson can arrange transportation to Valcarlos as they did on several occasions in the past.
But not for free. They do carpool the taxis to keep costs somewhat lower. Still, expect to spend a day's budget on the transfer, and you will miss the vistas that you think you will be seeing. Fog is endemic on the Route Napolean, so tens of thousands of pilgrims see nothing but fog on the crossing. At least on the Valcarlos route, the trees are always visible!
 
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There IS another route altho as it is many years since I tried it I hesitate! its just after Valcarlos that I literally blundered up the mountain following an old track which after a few years of combing maps turned out to be the GR10!! To my great surprise it brought me out at Ibaneta! Nowadays I wouldnt venture it without a GPS, an up to date map and a mandate from my Guardian Angel who because she loves me turned me from a curious walker into a pilgrim!
There is no end to the Camino as the hunger to go back is always there. I think for me it is the way west that calls and I willl be glad to get far enough north on the vdlp one of these days so that I can commence to go West again. Buenas noche etc. Sean JJ74 who is now 75 and a new member I aint! i just keep forgetting passwords etc and have to constantly re-register! it'll probably happen at the pearly gates as well! Sheesh!
 
There IS another route altho as it is many years since I tried it I hesitate! its just after Valcarlos that I literally blundered up the mountain following an old track which after a few years of combing maps turned out to be the GR10!! To my great surprise it brought me out at Ibaneta! Nowadays I wouldnt venture it without a GPS, an up to date map and a mandate from my Guardian Angel who because she loves me turned me from a curious walker into a pilgrim!
There is no end to the Camino as the hunger to go back is always there. I think for me it is the way west that calls and I willl be glad to get far enough north on the vdlp one of these days so that I can commence to go West again. Buenas noche etc. Sean JJ74 who is now 75 and a new member I aint! i just keep forgetting passwords etc and have to constantly re-register! it'll probably happen at the pearly gates as well! Sheesh!
Oh my, I better have my password notebook with me when I hit the Pearly Gates!!:rolleyes:
 
To see the videos of the two days hiking via Valcarlos has simply been an answer to prayer. I am 64 and a bit timid about the Napoleon Route, but not wanting to miss out on the experience, and the views. However, the alternate route (which is actually the original) appears challenging, beautiful, and an equally spiritual journey. If, on the day I leave SJPP, the Camino draws me into a different direction, I shall be free to go -- in the meantime, I can rest assured that either route will be wonderful.
Thank you. (I"ll be doing this on Nov. 3, 2013)...very soon!!
 
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lol...Im so emotional about it all the time! I can't read maps or research without breaking down cause I'm not there yet then when I think of leaving it is overwhelming! I just gotta get there...I can't breathe sometimes thinking about how badly I gotta get there...

I have that as well...I almost see it as if I am being called there and can't find my way...But I will!:)
 
Regardless of which road you choose, try this: when you visit the Pilgrim's Office in SJPP, take a digital photo of their big sign with the map of the routes. The sign has photos of the turn -offs on both routes. I used my photo to check to see if I was turning at the right point on the trail. Without that photo I may well have missed the turn-off to Valcarlos.

A wonderful piece of advice! Thank-you!
 
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Actually, is possible to go from Arneguy to Napolleon route -you connect with the latter after the Orisson Virgin. But it is quite a detour. I have heard about pilgrims in the Napolleon route who lost the way and ended in Arneguy, although the intersection is clearly signposted. But tiredness and bad weather may cause this kind of mistakes. When in a difficult road (and mountain passes qualify!), I try to go acccompanied, and make sure that both of us check signposts and arrows.
I spent 3 1/2 hrs from SJPP to Valcarlos -so, it is a good option if you arrive at SJPP mid-morning or even afternoon, if you want to start walking right away. And 4 1/2 hrs more to Roncesvalles. Quite easy, and very pleasant.
 
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I have to wholeheartedly agree! I walked the Valcarlos route in October and loved it. It is quite different from the high road, but every bit as beautiful. And if you are worried about missing out on a steep climb over the Pyrenees, don't worry - the last 6 kms up to the Ibaneta pass are quite steep. You WILL get in your exercise!

If you'd like to see what the Valcarlos route looks like, I've posted some photos here:
http://thecaminoexperience.com/caminodesantiagophotossjpptoroncesvalles.php. I show a mix of both the high and low roads, but the photos are labeled so you know which ones are through Valcarlos.

You can also see some fantastic footage of the Valcarlos route in this 26-minute documentary:

The albergue in Valcarlos was recently remodeled, and it is quite nice. The night I was there I shared the 12-bed dorm with only two other people, neither of whom I had seen on the trail. To get access to the albergue, go to the first bar you come to for directions and the door code. The hospitalero comes in the evening to collect the fee, stamp credentials, and set up the coffee for the morning.

Wow, what a small world. I'm in that video and know most of the people in it too!

On my first day on The Camino back in 2012 I met Matthew recording his documentary on the way to Roncesvalles.

I was advised in The Pilgrims Office to take the lower route because of snow. I'm going back next week to walk from SJPDP to Logrono and plan to take the Napoleon Route this time!
 
Thanks to Margaret, Nancy, Wayfarer, Tyrrek, FaithandGratitude, and all the rest of you pro-Valcarlos people, I'll be taking this route this September! Having done the Napoleon last year, having had views to Bayonne, and having gotten down the trail in one piece - without falling, I'm not risking that way again - especially with my knees! I'm SO looking forward to the beauty of the Lower Route - even if it is a steep climb towards the end!!
Buen Camino all!!
Terry
 
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I am somewhat confused about the route down from Ibañeta to Roncesvalles. I followed what the signpost seemed to indicate, that is by the paved road -not particularly pleasant, but hey, it was the last mile. But this map http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=252392 seems to recommend a way through a wood, up to a "regata" or path coming down to Roncesvalles. I was mistaken, or is it another alternative, worth considering?
 
The route marked in orange on your Wikiloc map starts at Ibaneta and passes by the bird conservation house to descend through the wood and enter Roncesvalles through the 'back door'. It is pleasant to walk through that wood but might be dangerous in wet or stormy weather since the path is often covered with heavy twigs and/or roots and you can easily trip or fall.

MM
 
When we were coming down from Ibaneta in 2012 we just stayed on the road as it was wet and cold and we were exhausted. Its a short and safe trip.
 
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I plan this route, only to Luzaide - Valcarlos.

First day slowly :)
 
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If I ever get the chance to walk the camino again, I will also walk this route.
 
I love this route. It breaks up a rather than trek over the Pyrennes into two almost equal portions. The second day has a lot of uphill, so you still feel righteous arriving in Roncesvalle. And it is drop dead gorgeous. The amount of road walking seemed to me to be a small portion.
 
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I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).

I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.

Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!




Does it take 2 days of walking to reach Roncesvalles from SJPP?
 
Does it take 2 days of walking to reach Roncesvalles from SJPP?

This thread discusses the Valcarlos alternate route to Roncessvales which goes through the mountain pass from SJPdP to Roncessvales monastery. Many pilgrims stop overnight on this way at the new municipal albergue in Valcarlos. For my personal comments re walking this ancient route over 10 years see. http://mermore.blogspot.pt/2011/04/valcarlos-new.html
 
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I have been debating whether to go via Orisson or Valcarlos. The main reason is that I do not want to make a reservation at Orisson and then decide I want to continue on to Roncesvalles on the same day. So, thank you for all the comments I read here regarding Valcarlos, I have decided go take that route now. I have also looked at meny pictures of the Valcarlos area (Thanks to Google) and is a lovely place, looking forwards to be there. I see that many had a hard time finding the signs indicating directions to Valcarlos, I will have to find out more information so not to make the same mistake. Any suggestion or markers to look for would be appreciated.

Buen Camino
Chris
 
I have been debating whether to go via Orisson or Valcarlos. The main reason is that I do not want to make a reservation at Orisson and then decide I want to continue on to Roncesvalles on the same day. So, thank you for all the comments I read here regarding Valcarlos, I have decided go take that route now. I have also looked at meny pictures of the Valcarlos area (Thanks to Google) and is a lovely place, looking forwards to be there. I see that many had a hard time finding the signs indicating directions to Valcarlos, I will have to find out more information so not to make the same mistake. Any suggestion or markers to look for would be appreciated.

Buen Camino
Chris
You have made a good choice. just pick up the very informative leaflet from the Pilgrim office at SJPDP and you will have no problems. Having said that, when I arrived in Valcarlos I had to ask for help in locating the albergue having passed the arrow on my way into the village on a very steep incline. It is an excellent albergue and was my introduction to accommodation on the Camino. There were personal lockers next to each bed, good facilities for cooking, and a grocers/restaurant close by. The price includes breakfast left for pilgrims by the hospitalero. the showers are good and the albergue is very well maintained with wonderful views. Having been disappointed that I was unable to go over the Pyrenees by the Napoleon route because of snow I ended up being so pleased that I walked via Valcarlos. Buen Camino!
 

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€149,-
Yes, I had some problems locating the albergue, too. It is one of the first buildings you see when you go up the very steep stairs before the town. It is close to the main square, in the back of some kind of public building (a kindergarten?). It is marked with a white "A" (from "albergue", I suppose) in a blue sign. See the photo below.
Albergue Valcarlos.png
 
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I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).

I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.

Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
I am no fan of Brierley as his guide is sadly lacking and this is one other example of it.
I would look into this option if I would go again.
 
I ended up taking the Valcarlos way September 2016 and loved it.
 
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I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).

I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.

Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
Thank you so much for this description of the lower route! It is the choice we will be making on our Sept. 2022 Camino, and this makes me feel so much happier about the choice. Our thanks!
 
Thank you so much for this description of the lower route! It is the choice we will be making on our Sept. 2022 Camino, and this makes me feel so much happier about the choice. Our thanks!

This video by John Sikora shows the entire route being walked at 5x speed; it takes only 35 minutes to view, rather than many hours. :)

 
This video by John Sikora shows the entire route being walked at 5x speed; it takes only 35 minutes to view, rather than many hours. :)

Thank you davebugg for this video. That is a a very inviting route. I would consider that the next time that I do the Camino Francés
 
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Thank you davebugg for this video. That is a a very inviting route. I would consider that the next time that I do the Camino Francés

There is also one for the Napoleon Route. It is a video that I recorded for John during one of my pilgrimages from SJPdP to SdC. John did the editing, then added that video into his series playlist "Camino Frances Day-By-Day" so that both routes were available for viewers to watch.

 
Thank you for the praise and descriptions, and for the youtube link as well. There's not a lot out there about the Valcarlos route and I was searching just yesterday on youtube for a video.
 
I walked the lower route in mid September this year, from SJPP to Roncesvalles and it was a major highlight of my Camino journey. It is mostly paths, not highway and through stunning woods where Roland and Charlemagne’s troops once journeyed. As a solo, contemplative walker I lOVED passing just 2 pilgrims the whole 2 days on foot (and meeting 2 on bike at a water font) after a hectic, social time in SJPP (whilst hundreds of others walked the high route - that night at Roncesvalles the 360+ bed albergue was booked out plus the hotels).

I stayed the night at the Hotel Maitena at Valcarlos – I was the only guest in this beautiful traditionally built hotel where the (proud Basque) owner talked to me (as much as we could understand each other) about the history of the town, his family and bar which was lined with photos. 30E for a first class room and bathroom, balcony and French doors opening in front of the town’s church (this would cost me at least $150 in Australia). The towns along the way were all so picturesque and mostly on rivers.

Brierley, whilst I am a big fan of his, has done a major disservice to this beautiful route (and the towns along it who are missing out on the boost to the local economy by pilgrims) by putting it down in his book with pictures of trucks etc. I felt bad for the hospilaterios there as there is barely any pilgrim trade. And not dangerous if you stay focused on the highway and walk on side of incoming traffic - which is not most of the route. Give it a try, you wont be disappointed!
Thanks so much for this post. I'm going to give this some serious thought, especially since I'd like to reduce the weather uncertainties on the mountain.

I had been worried the lower route would feel less authentic because the track looked close to a road on the map.
 
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Thanks so much for this post. I'm going to give this some serious thought, especially since I'd like to reduce the weather uncertainties on the mountain.

I had been worried the lower route would feel less authentic because the track looked close to a road on the map.
After Valcarlos there is a lot of road walking apart from a few forays into the woods. Walk against the oncoming traffic and if you have a bright jacket, all the better. The Valcarlos route is the original route BTW not the Napoleon. The Napoleon is a little more difficult and the views are knockout if you get the right conditions.
Buen Camino.
 
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