Skipping Pamplona?

[Viva Terlingua]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

 

[mspath]

Viva Terlingua,

There is much to see in Pamplona and as you walk through the city you will get a feeling of what it offers.

However since you are walking in May do not expect Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga to be pilgrim free. The month of May has always been very busy. These are small towns with limited facilities. Try to book ahead.

Whenever/wherever you do go
Carpe diem and Buen camino.

 

[C clearly]

Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

There is a reason you have decided to walk through Pamplona - i.e. you want to get out of sync with the wave of pilgrims. You have decided there are advantages. There are disadvantages, as well.

You are going to make a decision based on your best estimation of the pros and cons. With any decision you will miss out on whatever the alternative uniquely offered. Make your best guess at what will suit you, and then start anticipating the benefits, not the regrets.

 

[Former member 99290]

Hola @Viva Terlingua Though I haven't walked the Frances for many years, I get the impression that the days of being 'out of sync' with the wave of pilgrims - at least in the early stages of the Frances - are long gone. Many people have the same idea so .....

Cizur Menor, for example, is a very popular stop no doubt in a large part for the same reason you are thinking of stopping there - and a fabulous albergue. While many more pilgrims may stop in Pamplona than in Cizur Menor - there is also vastly more accommodation in Pampona than in Cizur Menor.

This from someone who both times on the Frances arrived in late morning in Pamplona, spent much of the day there, and walked on to Albergue de Maribel Roncal in Cizur Menor in the late afternoon. That worked well for me. That was in 2011 and 2013, and Cizur Menor was a popular stop way back then. But since then I have also stayed in Pamplona and it's a fun and lively place to be.

So, I agree with @C clearly Do what appeals most - with either choice, there will be much to be enjoyed and appreciated.

 

[good_old_shoes]

Why decide now? You can decide by the time you arrive in Pamplona

If you feel like staying in the city, stay. If not, continue walking.

It is a very different feeling to arrive in a city by foot compared to flight/car/train ect., therefore difficult to know whether you want to stay there or not before you walked across the bridge and along the citadel walls into town.

Casa Paderborn at the city entrance is a nice small albergue in a quiet area, for example, but still not far from all the interesting sights. Can't be booked as far as I know, so if you arrive there early after a short walking day, you shouldn't have a problem getting a bed. It was closed last year but should be open by march this year.

Another possibility would be to stay overnight in Trinidad de Arre (a few kms before city centre). You'd then have the option to spend all day visiting Pamplona the next day and then walk on to some place behind Pamplona to sleep (like Cizur Menor). Or stay in Pamplona for an almost zero walking rest day if you really love it there. Or if you find out you don't enjoy Pamplona at all, you still have all day to walk to one of the towns between there and Puente la Reina (or even all the way there depending on how far you like to walk and how you feel that day)...

So many options, and none of them a bad choice in my opinion ;-)

I've walked through once (easter), skipped by car from Casa Paderborn to Puente la Reina once (during San Fermines), and stayed for one night (june) and for two nights (halloween time) in different albergues, was happy with the decision every single time!

Buen Camino

 

[David]

The refugio in Cizur Menor is rather nice (actually, very nice!!) and there are a couple of shops not too far away to buy the makings for a meal and for next day lunch. Pilgrims do walk through Pamplona and stop there .. it means the next day one is out in the country and starting the delightful stroll to the top of the hill, rather than walking city traffic.

But really it depends on if you are a tourist or not ..... there is a lot to see if you are .. but even if you are not the old section with narrow lanes and many bars and restaurants is an absolute delight - I would say not to decide now but on the day, you will know then what you want to do.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

If you arrive in Pamplona and have already seen it, then I'd just walk on through.
There ARE some wonderful things to see there, including the Cathedral museum, the Bellringer's House, and the Museu de Navarre. If you spend your first night there, maybe take one extra day to see the city if you're interested in such things. If not, just walk on through.

 

[naplesdon]

It is a requirement during San Fermin, there is usually nothing available during that week. In 2022 it is 7 to 14 July.

 

[Arniece2022]

I have a very similar plan as you. I will be travelling 28 hours straight to get to Pamplona and I will arrive on Easter Friday. I have booked a room in Old Town for 3 nights so that I can enjoy some of Semana Santa, get caught up on my sleep (yes, I am aware it will be far from quiet) and get acclimated since it is a 7 hour time difference and different climate for me. Since I have 3 days there, I will walk through Pamplona. I would suggest looking at Gronze, tho because the Albergue mentioned above is closed and Zariquiegui doesn't seem to have any accommodations this year. I have booked my first 4 nights and will decide at that time if I need to book from there or can walk freely.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

We came into Pamplona by train and tried to bus to our reserved room near the university. Tried, because a misunderstanding had us get off early and, thinking we were close, did a lot of walking. We really didn't do anything interesting and the next morning was spent on the bus to SJPdP. We walked through town, just stopping for mass at the cathedral.

And now, to your question, both of us agree that we had no regrets just passing through. After our camino we did spend several nights in Pamplona so we know what we didn't see earlier and we still would have no regrets. And we really liked the place.

 

[Rmarkob]

I also arrived in Pamplona by train, arriving after 2100. I spent the night in a hotel near the station, then spent the day in Pamplona until my 1400 bus to SJPdP. I toured the cathedral and it’s museum, picked up a Credencial at a pilgrim shop nearby, checked out the Plaza de Toros, and had lunch at Cafe Iruña. I spent my first night at Orisson, and walked to Espinal the next day, and Larrasoaña the day after that. My intention was the same as yours - to get out of the “bubble” and keep going past Pamplona to Cizur Menor.

The hospitalero in Larrosoaña informed me that there were no albergues open between Pamplona and Uterga. As that was around 30 km, a distance I hadn’t yet done, I decided to stay in Pamplona again, a mere 15 km from larrasoaña.

It worked out well as I met or re-met in Pamplona three of the people I would spend most of my time with all the way to SdC, and got to experience some of the Pamplona nightlife that I had missed when I arrived by train a few days earlier.

 

[Jackieduda]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

I also flew into pamplona then bussed to sjpp. But when i got back to pamplona, i stayed two nights, partly because i already needed to rest my body a bit. This worked because i got the rest i needed in one of the most fascinating and beautiful cities in northern spain. dont miss it. However, this was my first trip to a european country and everything was very new and fascinating to me. Your past experience may be different.

 

[Arniece2022]

The hospitalero in Larrosoaña informed me that there were no albergues open between Pamplona and Uterga. As that was around 30 km, a distance I hadn’t yet done, I decided to stay in Pamplona again, a mere 15 km from larrasoaña.

I saw this also on Gronze. Zizur Mayor has 3 places that are quite expensive and that's it. Can you tell me where you got 30 km's from? On Gronze it only amounts to 16.8 km's between Pamplona and Uterga.

 

[trecile]

I saw this also on Gronze. Zizur Mayor has 3 places that are quite expensive and that's it. Can you tell me where you got 30 km's from? On Gronze it only amounts to 16.8 km's between Pamplona and Uterga.

I think that @Rmarkob meant 30 km between Larrasoaña and Uterga.

 

[Arniece2022]

I think that @Rmarkob meant 30 km between Larrasoaña and Uterga.

Right. I've just looked back and I did indeed read it wrong. Thank you!

 

[Former member 99816]

There is a reason you have decided to walk through Pamplona - i.e. you want to get out of sync with the wave of pilgrims. You have decided there are advantages. There are disadvantages, as well.

You are going to make a decision based on your best estimation of the pros and cons. With any decision you will miss out on whatever the alternative uniquely offered. Make your best guess at what will suit you, and then start anticipating the benefits, not the regrets.

Decisions, decisions!! Sartre couldn't have said it better!

 

[pepi]

Ahh, that nonsensical mindset that the CF is to be started in SJPdP!
For me it has always been best to start according to convenience. If I have a flight to Bayonne, it's SJPdP, but when landing in Pamplona, why bother, I just start there after extensively enjoying the city.
Having done both several times, I think Pamplone is a much kinder and more gentle starting point, and the many bars, restaurants, etc. provide ample opportunity to meet up with other Peregrinos. The two nights saved can be invested in a hike to Finistere instead.

Buen Camino

 

[Former member 98118]

People are different, some follow tradition, others choose to follow convenience. Quite often those who think in similar way like to stick together. The important thing is that those who start in SJPdP (which became a tradition) don't feel somehow "superior" and look down on those starting in Pamplona, or Sarria, for example. Because unfortunately it happens quite often.

 

[Former member 99290]

The important thing is that those who start in SJPdP (which became a tradition) don't feel somehow "superior" and look down on those starting in Pamplona, or Sarria, for example. Because unfortunately it happens quite often.

Or the opposite, which I've also seen regularly on this forum where the choice to start in SJPP is described in less than kind terms! Given how many people walk the Frances these days, it's just as well they are not all starting from the same town.

 

[Bob Howard]

A first time Camino requires stays in Pamplona, Burgos, Leon and Santiago. That is a rule. There are no exceptions.

 

[Chris RJ]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

I am doing the same as you, starting 14 April. I have stayed before at that wonderful hotel in Akereta.

I did spend the night in Pamplona last time but some of my newly formed Camino family went on to Cizar and took a bus back for an early dinner with a few of us.

You will have fun wherever you land. If I remember correctly as I left Pamplona in the morning the Pamplonians were still milling around at sunrise on Saturday. The Spanish do know how to party!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Casa Paderborn at the city entrance is a nice small albergue in a quiet area,

Gets an uptick from me too. The hospi's office is like the headmaster's office in a 1950's school. I sat up straight and displayed my best behaviour when signing in.
Also it's close to the public lift up to the town. Which is excellent for weary pilgrim legs going in search of pintxos..

 

[Gabi Wehler]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

If you haven’t spent at least a day in Pamplona to explore the city then I highly recommend to do so. Lovely place. A must see. I enjoyed wondering around, watching ppl from a cafe and exploring the town. Breath in the vibe. Never rush or haste from one place/town/village to the next. Stop and look. Explore. That’s the most enjoyable way and the true Camino way as the Spaniards told me, too.

 

[Terrri]

The last time we walked the camino we stayed in Arre at the parochial albergue just on the other side of the bridge. We didn't know it at the time but it is one of the oldest continually running albergues on the camino and it is also one of the most complete medieval monasteries in Navarra.
It was only about an hour walk in the morning to Pamplona. The next morning we had plenty of time to walk around Pamplona and enjoy the park on our way out of town.
Our goal was to get to Zariquiegui for the night, so that in the morning we walked up the Alto del Perdon in time for sunrise.

 

[Loriene]

I also arrived in Pamplona by train, arriving after 2100. I spent the night in a hotel near the station, then spent the day in Pamplona until my 1400 bus to SJPdP. I toured the cathedral and it’s museum, picked up a Credencial at a pilgrim shop nearby, checked out the Plaza de Toros, and had lunch at Cafe Iruña. I spent my first night at Orisson, and walked to Espinal the next day, and Larrasoaña the day after that. My intention was the same as yours - to get out of the “bubble” and keep going past Pamplona to Cizur Menor.

The hospitalero in Larrosoaña informed me that there were no albergues open between Pamplona and Uterga. As that was around 30 km, a distance I hadn’t yet done, I decided to stay in Pamplona again, a mere 15 km from larrasoaña.

It worked out well as I met or re-met in Pamplona three of the people I would spend most of my time with all the way to SdC, and got to experience some of the Pamplona nightlife that I had missed when I arrived by train a few days earlier.

I saw your recent post and thought perhaps you might be able to help me. I have a late flight into Pamplona (from Madrid) and won't arrive until after 21:30. I will be traveling the following day to SJPdP and I am trying to find a place to stay in Pamplona that first night. Unfortunately, many places don't have late check in times. I saw that you too arrived late and was hoping you may be able to recommend the hotel where you stayed. Thanks

 

[Rmarkob]

I saw your recent post and thought perhaps you might be able to help me. I have a late flight into Pamplona (from Madrid) and won't arrive until after 21:30. I will be traveling the following day to SJPdP and I am trying to find a place to stay in Pamplona that first night. Unfortunately, many places don't have late check in times. I saw that you too arrived late and was hoping you may be able to recommend the hotel where you stayed. Thanks

I stayed at Hotel Pamplona Plaza, which is only a few blocks from the train station. I also arrived at 2130, and wanted a place within walking distance of the station. Avenida Marcelo Celavata, 35. It was €65 for room, VAT, and breakfast via Booking.com.

 

[pepi]

stayed at Hotel Pamplona Plaza, which is only a few blocks from the train station. I also arrived at 2130, and wanted a place within walking distance of the station. Avenida Marcelo Celavata, 35. It was €65 for room, VAT, and breakfast.

I beg to disagree with your well-intentioned advice, @Rmarkob. The hotel you recommend may be perfect for someone wishing to depart from Pamplona by train the next day. The Hotel Pamplona Plaza is not only far away from the City's center and food streets, but also very far from the bus station.


@Loriene however wants to take the bus to SJPdP next day, besides that I imagine that she also would like to have a late dinner at one of the bustling Tapa– hmm sorry: Pintxo bars. (In Spain, dinner time starts commonly at 9:30pm or later)

For about the same price, Loriene might as well stay at the Hotel Yoldi*** recommended here before, which not only is located 200m from the main Plaza del Castillo, but equally 200m from the bus station. And should she decide to stay at the Yoldi again after getting back from SJPdP, she will find the Camino passing right at the Hotel's doorstep. Check out the map.

BC

 

[Loriene]

I stayed at Hotel Pamplona Plaza, which is only a few blocks from the train station. I also arrived at 2130, and wanted a place within walking distance of the station. Avenida Marcelo Celavata, 35. It was €65 for room, VAT, and breakfast via Booking.com.

Thanks for the tip! I will look into them tonight. It sounds like a nice option. I will be arriving after a long trip, so a private room might be a nice way to crash!

 

[EL LECHERO]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

I was given the advice to stay a day in Pamplona once I arrived...sight see then head on up to St Jean. That way I could walk through Pamplona and not miss seeing it .........and then find a smaller town to stay in after that....

 

[Rmarkob]

I beg to disagree with your well-intentioned advice, @Rmarkob. The hotel you recommend may be perfect for someone wishing to depart from Pamplona by train the next day. The Hotel Pamplona Plaza is not only far away from the City's center and food streets, but also very far from the bus station.


@Loriene however wants to take the bus to SJPdP next day, besides that I imagine that she also would like to have a late dinner at one of the bustling Tapa– hmm sorry: Pintxo bars. (In Spain, dinner time starts commonly at 9:30pm or later)

For about the same price, Loriene might as well stay at the Hotel Yoldi*** recommended here before, which not only is located 200m from the main Plaza del Castillo, but equally 200m from the bus station. And should she decide to stay at the Yoldi again after getting back from SJPdP, she will find the Camino passing right at the Hotel's doorstep. Check out the map.

BCView attachment 120514

All I wanted to do after almost 20 hours of traveling (multiple legs by car, flight to London, connection to Madrid, bus to Atocha station, and two trains to Pamplona) was to find a hotel close to the train station so I could take a shower and sleep in a bed. I had no desire to explore the nightlife at that point.

The next morning after breakfast at the hotel I felt refreshed and walked from the hotel to the city center where I visited the Cathedral, bought my Credencial, took out some euros at an ATM, had lunch at Cafe Iruña, visited the Plaza de Toros, then walked to the bus station for my 1400 bus to SJPP. Given my travel itinerary, I’d do the same again.

 

[MichaelC]

The hospitalero in Larrosoaña informed me that there were no albergues open between Pamplona and Uterga. As that was around 30 km, a distance I hadn’t yet done, I decided to stay in Pamplona again, a mere 15 km from larrasoaña.

I saw this also on Gronze. Zizur Mayor has 3 places that are quite expensive and that's it.

I got curious and looked at the Cizur Menor's albergue's website - they open on March 15, and close October 15.

This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

There are a lot of good reasons for getting 'out of sync' with the wave - but it does not make it easier to find a place! A lot of the smaller off-stage towns also only have one or two small albergues.

 

[Wanderingfriend]

I'm going to do the Frances in May starting in SJPP. The second day I plan on walking from Roncevalles to Aquerreta and stay in the Hotel Akerreta. (Just because it is where part of The Way was filmed). To get to SJPP I will be flying to Pamplona and spending the night then taking a taxi the next day to SJPP. Since I will have already spent a night in Pamplona, I plan to walk through it on my Camino and stay in Cizur Menor, Zariquiegui, or Uterga. This will allow me to get out of sync with the wave of Peregrinos and make it easier to find a place to stay each evening. Will I have any regrets not spending the evening in Pamplona?

I loved Pamplona but your reasoning sounds good.

 

[Loriene]

I beg to disagree with your well-intentioned advice, @Rmarkob. The hotel you recommend may be perfect for someone wishing to depart from Pamplona by train the next day. The Hotel Pamplona Plaza is not only far away from the City's center and food streets, but also very far from the bus station.


@Loriene however wants to take the bus to SJPdP next day, besides that I imagine that she also would like to have a late dinner at one of the bustling Tapa– hmm sorry: Pintxo bars. (In Spain, dinner time starts commonly at 9:30pm or later)

For about the same price, Loriene might as well stay at the Hotel Yoldi*** recommended here before, which not only is located 200m from the main Plaza del Castillo, but equally 200m from the bus station. And should she decide to stay at the Yoldi again after getting back from SJPdP, she will find the Camino passing right at the Hotel's doorstep. Check out the map.

BCView attachment 120514

Thank you for this recommendation! I just booked this hotel for my first night in Spain! It looks like an ideal location. That next day I can see the city a bit and enjoy lunch before catching a bus to SJPDP- all an easy walk. It is a relief to know that after a long trip, I will have a private room in a beautiful hotel to recharge. Thank you

 

[Wanderingfriend]

Sounds like such a good plan.