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Solo women walking Le Puy to Conques August 22nd to September 1st

Kezzaann

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
I will be walking the Le Puy way in August 2015
Hello, I am walking from Le Puy to Conques from August 222nd to September 1st, and am very excited. The recent posts about solo female safety are starting to concern me a bit and I wondered if there are any other solo females walking the same route at that time who may want to join me on some of the legs.
I am not a fearful person normally but I believe this walk is not as popular as the Camino Frances.
Has anyone done the walk at this time before who can give me an idea if I will find people along the way to join up with?
Any information that can put my mind at rest as to how a solo female will fare on the Le Puy to Conques route will be much appreciated. Cheers
 
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This is the most popular part of GR65 at the most popular time of the year. I suspect your problem will be too many people not too few.

Gavin
Gavin, that is sweet music to my ears, exactly what I was hoping.
 
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Gavin is right, you will not want for people around. In general, the Le Puy route has about 1/10 the number of people on the Camino Frances in Spain. So that's something like 30-50 people a day.
 
Walked this section two weeks ago. At dinner many nights there were only two or three men at a tables of 12 to 30 people. Many women walking. Many women walking alone and in groups. It felt very very safe. Since Conques the gender split has been more even.
 
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Hello,
So that's something like 30-50 people a day.
What about June 1 to about June 20? Are the numbers about the same?

With reference to these statistics,
http://www.cathedraledupuy.org/Le-chemin-de-Saint-Jacques-en-chiffres_a69.html
June, with let's say 2000 people at the pilgrims' mass/blessing, could be around 70 per day. Or more, taking into account that every pilgrim at the mass will walk, but all walkers do not attend the mass.
 
Gavin is right, you will not want for people around. In general, the Le Puy route has about 1/10 the number of people on the Camino Frances in Spain. So that's something like 30-50 people a day.
Thanks Kitsambler, It should not be too hard to tag behind someone if I feel the need. Can you throw some light on another subject for me? What is the likelihood of me finding places to stop for coffee/lunch along the way? I know it is more remote and there are long stretches of nature and not much else but will I need to take enough food for the day ( lunch etc)? I am planning to set out at about 7am, walk 2 hours, hopefully have a coffee break, walk another 2 hours, lunch break, another 2 hours and be at destination. Thanks
 
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Thanks Kitsambler, It should not be too hard to tag behind someone if I feel the need. Can you throw some light on another subject for me? What is the likelihood of me finding places to stop for coffee/lunch along the way? I know it is more remote and there are long stretches of nature and not much else but will I need to take enough food for the day ( lunch etc)? I am planning to set out at about 7am, walk 2 hours, hopefully have a coffee break, walk another 2 hours, lunch break, another 2 hours and be at destination. Thanks
Hello Kezzaann! We walked this route last fall, and would carry our snacks and lunch unless we were going to be walking through a town large enough to have somewhere to get food. Your MMDD guidebook will help you plan ahead for this. Enjoy the walk!
Linda
 
Thanks Kitsambler, It should not be too hard to tag behind someone if I feel the need. Can you throw some light on another subject for me? What is the likelihood of me finding places to stop for coffee/lunch along the way? I know it is more remote and there are long stretches of nature and not much else but will I need to take enough food for the day ( lunch etc)? I am planning to set out at about 7am, walk 2 hours, hopefully have a coffee break, walk another 2 hours, lunch break, another 2 hours and be at destination. Thanks
Sorry, forgot to mention that you also have to plan for the Sunday and Monday closures, as well as places closing in the afternoons.
 
You may find yourself starting later than 7. As I recall, breakfast is at 7 at the earliest, and in some accommodations it can't start until someone brings bread from the boulangerie that only opens at 7.

Also, don't let warnings about planning for when stores close lead you to think a lot of planning is involved. Just communicate with your fellow hikers and follow their lead. It all works out pretty easily.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
When I walked the route I recall asking myself how I would feel about one of my nieces doing it alone. I'd feel okay! While one can't give guarantees, it is a pretty safe part of the world, and the people of France profonde are among the politest anywhere. (A good idea to return the politeness and formalities. It's lack of those little formalities rather than lack of French which can cause some friction.) Also, as others have said, you may start alone, but you probably won't stay that way for long. Even in the wind and snow, it took me till lunchtime at Saint-Christophe on day one to find friends and fellow walkers.

If you do have problems, remember you can contact Rom and Aideen at the Ultreia gite in Moissac. The don't seem to get tired of helping, so I don't hesitate to mention them. (It's a good gite too.)

Very excited? Well, you should be. Since I hope to be in Le Puy soon to do the Regordane Way. I'm a bit excited myself.

Bon chemin

Rob
 
The positive reinforcement in the forum is really calming me and changing my mindset in a really positive way. Thanks to everyone! I love hearing your bits if advice about the Le Puy route. I wholeheartedly take your point, Rob, about manners and politeness and am so looking forward to meeting the people of this area and getting a taste of their lifestyle and cultural "ways". I don't speak much French but am doing a crash course in the basics so I can show respect and also hopefully have some idea of what is going on around me.
I have booked all of my accommodation now but want to ask - do you feel that I should get the Miam Miam Dodo still?
Does it have maps of the Le Puy to Conques route in it and if not what do you suggest are the best resources for maps? Cheers
 
The positive reinforcement in the forum is really calming me and changing my mindset in a really positive way. Thanks to everyone! I love hearing your bits if advice about the Le Puy route. I wholeheartedly take your point, Rob, about manners and politeness and am so looking forward to meeting the people of this area and getting a taste of their lifestyle and cultural "ways". I don't speak much French but am doing a crash course in the basics so I can show respect and also hopefully have some idea of what is going on around me.
I have booked all of my accommodation now but want to ask - do you feel that I should get the Miam Miam Dodo still?
Does it have maps of the Le Puy to Conques route in it and if not what do you suggest are the best resources for maps? Cheers

This is purely personal, but I would get the Miam Miam Dodo, latest edition. It's as mappy as you will need, and all the contacts are invaluable. Some prefer more, some less, but I am a Miam Miam guy, and I'll be walking out of Le Puy with their Regordane/Stevenson edition.

Excited for you

Rob
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hello, I am walking from Le Puy to Conques from August 222nd to September 1st, and am very excited. The recent posts about solo female safety are starting to concern me a bit and I wondered if there are any other solo females walking the same route at that time who may want to join me on some of the legs.
I am not a fearful person normally but I believe this walk is not as popular as the Camino Frances.
Has anyone done the walk at this time before who can give me an idea if I will find people along the way to join up with?
Any information that can put my mind at rest as to how a solo female will fare on the Le Puy to Conques route will be much appreciated. Cheers

Hi there - I was on the Le Puy Route for 2 weeks very recently and loved it. Walked alone when I wanted but often chatted to other hikers alot too (it helped that I have good French but even that is not essential). There are normally other hikers around - or should I say when you want to be around people its relatively easy to make sure you are within a reasonable distance of other hikers (just leave immediately after breakfast and there will be a group leaving around the same time). I left earlier on hotter days and when I wanted some alone time on the trail. I always felt safe alone or otherwise :) Its a beautiful chemin so enjoy! :)
 
The positive reinforcement in the forum is really calming me and changing my mindset in a really positive way. Thanks to everyone! I love hearing your bits if advice about the Le Puy route. I wholeheartedly take your point, Rob, about manners and politeness and am so looking forward to meeting the people of this area and getting a taste of their lifestyle and cultural "ways". I don't speak much French but am doing a crash course in the basics so I can show respect and also hopefully have some idea of what is going on around me.
I have booked all of my accommodation now but want to ask - do you feel that I should get the Miam Miam Dodo still?
Does it have maps of the Le Puy to Conques route in it and if not what do you suggest are the best resources for maps? Cheers

If you have pre booked accommodation then you don't really need the Miam Miam Dodo as the maps are not great in it but adequate for what you need for this section of the route. The Miam Miam Dodo does also list services though which is very handy (like which towns have bank machines and shops etc) - its not essential of course but personally I like to have this info so I don't get caught out short on cash for accommodation or with nowhere to get food/bread for lunch on the trail. My preference is to have the info to hand rather than relying on others for it but that is just a personal thing.

I would suggest some type of printout of a simplified map of the route so you know which towns/villages are next and distances in between - even something you do yourself if needs be www.godesalco.com produces really good elevation maps for the route (you put in your stages and it produces the elevations etc) .... I highly recommend you check it out :)

The route is so well signposted you really don't need a map. By the way, they call the directional red and white markings 'balisages' pronounced "bal-uh-saj" - but in addition to this they have actual signposts showing distances on the most popular stretch between Le Puy en Velay and Conques. I used the Michelin map book of the route - very good and lightweight with the added benefit of elevation profiles between stages. (Again its not essential though)...
 
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If you have pre booked accommodation then you don't really need the Miam Miam Dodo as the maps are not great in it but adequate for what you need for this section of the route. The Miam Miam Dodo does also list services though which is very handy (like which towns have bank machines and shops etc) - its not essential of course but personally I like to have this info so I don't get caught out short on cash for accommodation or with nowhere to get food/bread for lunch on the trail. My preference is to have the info to hand rather than relying on others for it but that is just a personal thing.

I would suggest some type of printout of a simplified map of the route so you know which towns/villages are next and distances in between - even something you do yourself if needs be www.godesalco.com produces really good elevation maps for the route (you put in your stages and it produces the elevations etc) .... I highly recommend you check it out :)

The route is so well signposted you really don't need a map. By the way, they call the directional red and white markings 'balisages' pronounced "bal-uh-saj" - but in addition to this they have actual signposts showing distances on the most popular stretch between Le Puy en Velay and Conques. I used the Michelin map book of the route - very good and lightweight with the added benefit of elevation profiles between stages. (Again its not essential though)...
Thanks irishgurrrl, so much useful information, you have answered a few of my unspoken questions here. anything else you want to share re the Le Puy route please feel free.
 
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Hi there - I was on the Le Puy Route for 2 weeks very recently and loved it. Walked alone when I wanted but often chatted to other hikers alot too (it helped that I have good French but even that is not essential). There are normally other hikers around - or should I say when you want to be around people its relatively easy to make sure you are within a reasonable distance of other hikers (just leave immediately after breakfast and there will be a group leaving around the same time). I left earlier on hotter days and when I wanted some alone time on the trail. I always felt safe alone or otherwise :) Its a beautiful chemin so enjoy! :)
This especially is music to my ears as the combination of solitary contemplation and having other pilgrims in sight is a perfect combination for my first camino.
 
Gavin is right, you will not want for people around. In general, the Le Puy route has about 1/10 the number of people on the Camino Frances in Spain. So that's something like 30-50 people a day.
Do you need to speak French on this route?
 
This especially is music to my ears as the combination of solitary contemplation and having other pilgrims in sight is a perfect combination for my first camino.

Yeah I love the Le Puy Route for this although - as I mentioned before just leave with the masses in the morning (straight after breakfast normally) and you are likely to have company along the way :) Some days will seem quieter than others on the route but in reality there are usually still the same numbers on the trail - it just depends on where you stayed the night before, the time you left that morning and the timing between villages as to when you bump into other pilgrims.

My recent 2 week hike was my second time on this camino as I did pretty much the full route from Le Puy to St Jean last year... This time I walked for about 9 days in all with some rest days and chill out days in between. Having already done the same sections before helped my confidence and sense of safety on the route this time (and what I was capable of doing). This time I kinda loved walking by myself to be honest and that is unusual for me!!! :D

You mentioned you are learning basic French - I highly recommend you keep going with that as it really helps deepen the experience - your interactions in the gites in the evenings will be all the richer for it. Most people you will meet on this trail will be French although you will meet some who can speak at least basic english and pilgrims from other countries who have decent english too. Not that it matters whether you speak French that well as ultimately you can use gestures etc to communicate if you need to :) The French do really appreciate you making the effort though even if you think you are terrible at speaking French. They are always complimentary regardless :)

By the way, there are normally solo hikers only too happy to walk in the company of other pilgrims/hikers so if you fancy company at the start I suggest you get chatting on day 1 (or the evening before you start), head to the cathedral for the morning pilgrim mass (7am I think) in Le Puy en Velay (its a lovely mass in and of itself and the bonus is that you and the other pilgrims will all be heading off together).
 
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Walked this section two weeks ago. At dinner many nights there were only two or three men at a tables of 12 to 30 people. Many women walking. Many women walking alone and in groups. It felt very very safe. Since Conques the gender split has been more even.
So are you still on the Le Puy route? Probably ahead of me. I am in Condom right now.
 
I see a lot of recommendations for the Miam Miam Do Do book but I'd like to recommend another that many people were carrying on the route last year, and I have just bought it for my upcoming walk from Cahors-SJPP. It is Bettina Forst's "Chemin de St-Jacques" The map is far better than the Miam Miam Do Do and although it does not have as extensive listings on lodging, it does list (and have contact info for) a great number of gites in most towns along the way. I got it from Wordery for $15 US including shipping.
 
What is the likelihood of me finding places to stop for coffee/lunch along the way? I know it is more remote and there are long stretches of nature and not much else but will I need to take enough food for the day ( lunch etc)?
Perhaps once or twice a week you might find a small place for coffee or cold drinks along the way. Perhaps a different day or two each week you may find there is a place to stop for lunch -- sometimes that is a small town with a delightful country restaurant. So you will want to shop at local groceries for lunch supplies - and carry a couple days' worth of supplies to carry you over the weekend/Monday closings.

If you absolutely must have more coffee or tea, bring with you an insulated travel mug and get your gite host to fill it before you set out in the morning. Gite hosts will usually not set out breakfast until 7 am, so if you need to leave before then, it will be without that breakfast. (Many Germans do get underway earlier, at 6 or 6:30. And they continue walking until 5 pm)
 
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Do you need to speak French on this route?
Let me put it this way. You are in the most remote part of France. The percentage of walkers who are French is 85% or higher. All the signage and restaurant menus are in French. Miam Miam Dodo is in French. All the store products are labelled in French. France is a country where the culture revolves around a level of formality and politeness that, for many Americans, is utterly ... well, foreign.

So, do yourself a favor, by spending at least as much time learning French as you spend agonizing over the equipment. Learn the very basics of the language - there are a wide variety of apps and websites that will help you: (Babbel, Duolingo, LiveMocha, Rosetta Stone, and my personal favorite, Michel Thomas). Focus on the twelve essential phrases, and use them often. Getting a grip on the basics can be done in two weeks of daily practice.
1. Hello (good day / good evening)
2. Goodbye / good night / see you soon
3. Please
4. Thank you
5. I'd like ... (to order)
6. I'd like ... (the check)
7. Where is ... ?
8. My Name is ...
9. I'm sorry
10. I need help
11. I don't understand
12. Do you speak English? (last and least)
 
So are you still on the Le Puy route? Probably ahead of me. I am in Condom right now.

Hi Luka-just saw this now. I am in Aroue. It's Monday...
Enjoy the heat!
ml
 
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I remember baking in the sun and heat in the gite in Aroue. Have any stores opened there?
Hi Falcon - nope. Just a pizzeria. But I only tell you this second hand as I spent a very nice afternoon sitting in the shade up on the hill at the Ferme Bohoteguia. Excellent gîte with fabulous dinner. The best cheese plate of the whole chemin.
 
Hello, I am walking from Le Puy to Conques from August 222nd to September 1st, and am very excited. The recent posts about solo female safety are starting to concern me a bit and I wondered if there are any other solo females walking the same route at that time who may want to join me on some of the legs.
I am not a fearful person normally but I believe this walk is not as popular as the Camino Frances.
Has anyone done the walk at this time before who can give me an idea if I will find people along the way to join up with?
Any information that can put my mind at rest as to how a solo female will fare on the Le Puy to Conques route will be much appreciated. Cheers
 
For women, like yourself, who are traveling on the Camino or for those who are planning to do so in the next 5 years, there is a networking group for women who want to buddy up with other women for companionship and safety. Join us at the FB page "Buddy System for Women on the Camino" and start planning your trip. Buen Camino!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
For women, like yourself, who are traveling on the Camino or for those who are planning to do so in the next 5 years, there is a networking group for women who want to buddy up with other women for companionship and safety. Join us at the FB page "Buddy System for Women on the Camino" and start planning your trip. Buen Camino!
What an awesome idea, Thanks Caroline for letting me know
 
Hello, I am walking from Le Puy to Conques from August 222nd to September 1st, and am very excited. The recent posts about solo female safety are starting to concern me a bit and I wondered if there are any other solo females walking the same route at that time who may want to join me on some of the legs.
I am not a fearful person normally but I believe this walk is not as popular as the Camino Frances.
Has anyone done the walk at this time before who can give me an idea if I will find people along the way to join up with?
Any information that can put my mind at rest as to how a solo female will fare on the Le Puy to Conques route will be much appreciated. Cheers
Hi. I have walked this route twice and many others. I usually walk alone and I have had no issues ever. This part of the Le Puy route is well frequented and signposted. I sometimes let the host know where I am headed if I approach an isolated stretch. It is very liberating walking alone.
 
Hi. I have walked this route twice and many others. I usually walk alone and I have had no issues ever. This part of the Le Puy route is well frequented and signposted. I sometimes let the host know where I am headed if I approach an isolated stretch. It is very liberating walking alone.
Thanks gitteharre! the more I hear from forum members the more consistent that message is and the more excited I get. I really am looking forward to walking alone and having that solo experience and time to reflect. I will take on board that message regarding letting the hosts know. Which stretches did you find were the most isolated? Cheers
 
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The most isolated was the bit after Moissac but even then I saw other pilgrims every day. On the Geneva route I went 5 or 6 days without seeing anyone.

That was ok, but I was pleased to have company again.
 
Another reminder to brush up on my French!

And German (!!!!) also as there are many pilgrims from German speaking Switzerland and southern Germany.

My experience in April 2016 was this:
1) I started every encounter with a stock phrase "Je regret, mais Je ne parle pas Francais" said with as much humility as I could muster and accompanied by my best Gallic shrug
2) nearly every time problem sorted. If the gite etc owner didn't have English someone else close by would come to the rescue.
3) On the one occassion the gite owner had no English and there was no one around we used two instances of Google translate (and WiFi) on my tablet. Hilarious session, but problem sorted

Why don't I speak French. Problem not sorted as I have trouble hearing, even in English. I'm just so practised at, and understanding of, how the face and lips are used when speaking English than I could ever prepare for one month in France. We all have our own problems ...
 
You may find yourself starting later than 7. As I recall, breakfast is at 7 at the earliest,

Problem: In my experience walkers who leave at or before sunsrise are those who wish to minimise walking in the heat of the day and may prefer to not have a heavy stomach for the first few hours.

After the first a few days, when I stayed in a gite that offerred breakfast, I would arrange for a packed breakfast to put in my pack on departing.

But your journey is your journey and my ...
 
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@Kezzaann , greetings

I am not a young female intending to walk alone so your presenting (and appropriate) concerns I can offer no insights about, sorry

I walked solo from Le Puy in April 2016.
At that time the sending out after the 7 am pilgrims Mass was, for me and my circumstances, a very moving experience.

Reading the many valuable and helpful posts above tell me that we each have differing long distance walking experiences before beginning to think of walking from, for example, Le Puy.

Mine, reinforced (by circumstances) by four years of training beforehand, include:
1) start at or before sunrise to get the best of the day, minismise walking in the heat of the day, and to allow for halts for whatever reason during the day
2) start with my breakfast (in my case porridge cooked the night before) in a soft sealable container and some fruit and other easy edibles for lunch
3) train to walk, say, 15 km before stopping for breakfast
4) training walks to include an elevation increase of say, 150 metres over 1.5 km (10%) as often as possible.

Haere pai (travel well)
Kia ora (be healthy)
Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)
 
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