Some thoughts on the Salvador

[Aglass]

3 in one

I walked the Camino Del Salvador from 30 June to 4 July this year and would like to share my thoughts for anyone thinking of doing it. It is a stunning route and one I would fully recommend. I have previously done the Frances in 2003, the Primitivo in 2013 and the Lebaniego (also a little gem) in 2014.

The Salvador wins in the beauty of the countryside, the fact that you can still feel you are doing something a bit special and, related to that, the tranquility. There are a couple of things to bear in mind however – see below!

The route is stunning and varied. Day one coming out of Leon reminded me not unreasonably of some of the scenery on the Camino Frances near Leon. What is great is that you get out of the city of Leon so quickly after San Marcos past new residential districts and not the endless industrial or post-industrial cityscape on the French route. Days four and five as you get into Asturias and near Oviedo are quite similar to the Primitivo, but hillier. The second and third days are real hill or even mountain-walking, really spectacular and quite unlike anything on either of the other caminos. Day three going over the pass of Pajares has so many different landscapes in one day.

The hostels I stayed in (La Robla, Poladura de Tercia, Pajares and Pola de Lena) are all newish, good and well-equipped. The first two nights there were six of us – a group of 3 Spanish men from Madrid, two men from Spain walking solo and me. By day three we had thinned out to two of us – four did a ‘double day’ including Pajares (rather them than me!) and the fourth night I was alone in the hostel, definitely a first, as the other man had returned to Leon. From what I have read on here, around six people is the norm in summer.

It isn’t a route which stands out for its historical buildings and art but when you have Leon and Oviedo at the beginning and end you can hardly complain! There is a pearl of pre-Romanesque art in Santa Cristina de Lena. The villages are pretty - most houses are renovated, looked after and with plentiful flowers. The small towns are workaday with some evidence of decline – lots of posters and graffiti talk about the mines closing – though I am not sure when that is or was.

A couple of things to bear in mind. It is quite tough. Even if you only average 25km a day, the hills on most days make it seem far more. It is not a walk to launch straight into if you are not pretty fit. I am pretty fit though my preparation was definitely not the best – a 22 hour flight via London from Bangkok on the Tuesday with six hours of time difference, then one day of semi recovery, which included the bus to Leon, and then off on Thursday morning after two fairly sleepless nights! You also have to carry food – once for lunch, breakfast and the next day’s lunch. You could get dinner every night even if you had to reserve it twice! There are not so many fountains. It is well worth checking the guide on this point.

The only other downside is that it is only five days, though you can continue on the Primitivo. Just as you get into your stride and routine, fully relaxed and have cast off the rest of the world, it finishes. It is still wonderful. So, which route next?

 

[Davey Boyd]

Hi Andrew,
A very good description of the Salvador, thank you! Though I did it in six days not five. I walked it last year and intend walking it again this year too!

Davey

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Thank you so much for setting my dreaming wheels in action again. But also for a deacription that, I think, gives is a good idea of the challenge ahead.

Having walked tbe Primitivo, I look forward to more walks above the clouds, but think I would not venture on the Salvador without a walking companion as I am not overly fit, to say the least. 6 people a day that, in my case, will be way ahead of me early on in the day does not seem very safe should I injure myself somehow.

I will patiently wait to walk this route until I find a walking companion.

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree with your comments on the Salvador, it is a favorite. We hit the end of a long stretch of bad weather this June and we had a pretty rough day from about the Cross to the town of Pajares. In the rain and mud, there is a really bad stretch in the forest after the worst part of the descent from the pass at Pajares. Of the six of us who stayed in Pajares that night, three fell there (including me) and one didn't fall but blew out his knee. Poladura to the town of Pajares is a very short day (about 14, I think), but we were very glad to have that option given the weather.

In good weather, I would encourage people to consider Poladura to Benduenos as their day 3. That would make day 3 about 30, but then you would have two short days, one to Mieres, and a very short day into Oviedo. Benduenos is a new donativo albergue a km off road (true, it is up up up), and it is really a special place. Sandra, the wonderful hospitalera, makes meals and tends to the church-owned albergue, which is right across from the old church. Sandra lives down the road a bit, and you drop off the key there on your way out.

The hospitalera in Pajares told me that in August, they fill up and have overflow (another reason to go on to Benduenos). In fact, the night we were there, the albergue in Pola de Lena brought up a few more beds from their huge albergue.

I have walked twice on the four day plan, but that means spending your first night in Pola de Gordon in a pension. Then Pajares, Pola de Lena, and Oviedo. Do-able, but breaking up the mountain part (roughly from Buiza to Pajares) into two days is nice. I think most people walk 4-6 days but there are options for even shorter days in Ender's guide.

If anyone is on the Salvador in August, it'd be interesting to hear how the crowds are. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Well done, and thank you for the information.

 

[giorgio]

Didn't walk the salvador, but in planning mountain hikes it would be wise to take into account not only the kilometers but also the altitude profile of each stage. As a matter of fact would normally add one hour for each 300 meter of altitude gain...

 

[peregrina2000]

Didn't walk the salvador, but in planning mountain hikes it would be wise to take into account not only the kilometers but also the altitude profile of each stage. As a matter of fact would normally add one hour for each 300 meter of altitude gain...

Very good point, Giorgio. I had been walking stages of 30-40 on the Ebro and Castellano-Aragones, but was quite finished when I got to Pajares in the rain after a mere 14 or 15 km.

Ender's excellent guide, by the way, lists elevation totals. https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/caminodelsalvador/guia-ingles-del-camino-del-salvador

 

[Aglass]

Hi Andrew,
A very good description of the Salvador, thank you! Though I did it in six days not five. I walked it last year and intend walking it again this year too!

Davey

Thanks Davey. Glad it was useful. Would you split day 2 staying in Buiza (no food) or split day 5 (Mieres) or break it up differently? Look forward to hearing how it goes. Best, Andrew

 

[Aglass]

I agree with your comments on the Salvador, it is a favorite. We hit the end of a long stretch of bad weather this June and we had a pretty rough day from about the Cross to the town of Pajares. In the rain and mud, there is a really bad stretch in the forest after the worst part of the descent from the pass at Pajares. Of the six of us who stayed in Pajares that night, three fell there (including me) and one didn't fall but blew out his knee. Poladura to the town of Pajares is a very short day (about 14, I think), but we were very glad to have that option given the weather.

In good weather, I would encourage people to consider Poladura to Benduenos as their day 3. That would make day 3 about 30, but then you would have two short days, one to Mieres, and a very short day into Oviedo. Benduenos is a new donativo albergue a km off road (true, it is up up up), and it is really a special place. Sandra, the wonderful hospitalera, makes meals and tends to the church-owned albergue, which is right across from the old church. Sandra lives down the road a bit, and you drop off the key there on your way out.

The hospitalera in Pajares told me that in August, they fill up and have overflow (another reason to go on to Benduenos). In fact, the night we were there, the albergue in Pola de Lena brought up a few more beds from their huge albergue.

I have walked twice on the four day plan, but that means spending your first night in Pola de Gordon in a pension. Then Pajares, Pola de Lena, and Oviedo. Do-able, but breaking up the mountain part (roughly from Buiza to Pajares) into two days is nice. I think most people walk 4-6 days but there are options for even shorter days in Ender's guide.

If anyone is on the Salvador in August, it'd be interesting to hear how the crowds are. Buen camino, Laurie

Ender's guide is great. So too the Eroski one if you speak Spanish. Poladura to Bendueños would be quite a tough day. I was glad for time to really savour the beauty going to Pajares

 

[Davey Boyd]

Thanks Davey. Glad it was useful. Would you split day 2 staying in Buiza (no food) or split day 5 (Mieres) or break it up differently? Look forward to hearing how it goes. Best, Andrew

Hi Andrew, my stages were

Leon to La Robla 25km
to Buiza 16km
to Pajares 24km
to Pola de Lena 26km
to Mieres 16km
to Oviedo 20km

It wasn't planned like that (I don't plan at all) but thats what happened. But I was carrying 16kilo's! When I do it again this year it will be unplanned again so who knows? Well, apart from definitely staying in Mieres, as I met and got very drunk with a local couple there, he is a miner and we got on like a house on fire! We are still in touch and they are one of the main reasons I want to walk the Salvador again. That and the fact it is my favorite Camino so far.

Davey

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi Andrew, my stages were

Leon to La Robla 25km
to Buiza 16km
to Pajares 24km
to Pola de Lena 26km
to Mieres 16km
to Oviedo 20km

Davey

I like those distances. Will have to go look at the corresponding elevations.

Would I be correct if I said out of Leon you can stop even earlier, even of it means adding an extra day?

 

[peregrina2000]

I like those distances. Will have to go look at the corresponding elevations.

Would I be correct if I said out of Leon you can stop even earlier, even of it means adding an extra day?

Hi, Anemone, You can stop at km 16 at the albergue in Cabanillas. Nothing in town, so you should bring food, though I have heard that there is a senora who sometimes brings you meals.

Also, you can break up the stage from Pajares to Pola de Lena with a stop in the absolutely wonderful albergue in Benduenos. If you sleep in Benduenos, the next day's most logical stop is Mieres, which leaves you with a nice short day into Oviedo. I am sensing that you are drawn to this camino! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Davey Boyd]

I like those distances. Will have to go look at the corresponding elevations.

Would I be correct if I said out of Leon you can stop even earlier, even of it means adding an extra day?

Yes, there is an albergue de Peregrino in Cabanillas about 17km from Leon. It has 4 beds and you need to call in advance (usually the day before). The number is in Enders guide.

Davey

 

[Davey Boyd]

Hi, Anemone, You can stop at km 16 at the albergue in Cabanillas. Nothing in town, so you should bring food, though I have heard that there is a senora who sometimes brings you meals.

Also, you can break up the stage from Pajares to Pola de Lena with a stop in the absolutely wonderful albergue in Benduenos. If you sleep in Benduenos, the next day's most logical stop is Mieres, which leaves you with a nice short day into Oviedo. I am sensing that you are drawn to this camino! Buen camino, Laurie

Thats right, you would also need to take food with you to Buiza as there is nothing there either. You can cook in the albergue though.

Davey

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I am sensing that you are drawn to this camino! Buen camino, Laurie

What can I say, the first bit of the Norte and then the Primitivo spoiled me. Such beauty, and no conga line. And this spring I tried the Portuguese hoping to find the Frances feeling circa 2008 but alas the views were lacking for me after being spoiled, and being 1 of 18 in albergues who was non German did not help with the social aspect. But no conga line, mind you. ;0)

But after having experienced how fast weather can change in the mountains while on the Hospitales route, I do not want to walk kt alone, or on long stretches. Rather be safe then sorry. So for now I gather info.

Thank you Laurie and Daveu Boyd for your input.

 

[KinkyOne]

I like those distances. Will have to go look at the corresponding elevations.

Would I be correct if I said out of Leon you can stop even earlier, even of it means adding an extra day?

Hi, Anemone,

From the cathedral in Leon to albergue in Cabanillas is 18,7km. 1,6km further on in La Seca there's a tienda.

And if you decide to stay overnight in Buiza stock up in Pola de Gordon which is 5,3km before Buiza. There is also kind of centro social but just maybe opened late afternoon during weekends, can't really count on it.

 

[Aglass]

Hi Andrew, my stages were

Leon to La Robla 25km
to Buiza 16km
to Pajares 24km
to Pola de Lena 26km
to Mieres 16km
to Oviedo 20km

It wasn't planned like that (I don't plan at all) but thats what happened. But I was carrying 16kilo's! When I do it again this year it will be unplanned again so who knows? Well, apart from definitely staying in Mieres, as I met and got very drunk with a local couple there, he is a miner and we got on like a house on fire! We are still in touch and they are one of the main reasons I want to walk the Salvador again. That and the fact it is my favorite Camino so far.

Davey

When I manage to do my next camino the one thing I want to change is focus less on the stage/km/clock and more on my surroundings! Let's see. Cabanillas has a lovely looking hostel with a garden but I only saw it from the outside!

 

[jpflavin1]

When I manage to do my next camino the one thing I want to change is focus less on the stage/km/clock and more on my surroundings! Let's see. Cabanillas has a lovely looking hostel with a garden but I only saw it from the outside!

Cabanillas has a very clean Albergue. The town population is around 20. I stopped there in April 2013. The people were very friendly. When I arrived a man came out and gave me a cold beer. He then went to get the key. The shower was hot and the beds fold down from the wall. As I recall there is a microwave. The woman who live next door brought me to her house and made me dinner. She would not accept any compensation. I left money on her table and she came down and scolded me.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Anemone del Camino]

This sounds like a wonderful experience. Thank you for all the tips.

 

[homebuilt]

Having read through the posts I have decided to start my walk from Leon rather than Oviedo. I have just enough spare days to do it. Thank you for the information.

 

[Rover]

3 in one

I walked the Camino Del Salvador from 30 June to 4 July this year and would like to share my thoughts for anyone thinking of doing it. It is a stunning route and one I would fully recommend. I have previously done the Frances in 2003, the Primitivo in 2013 and the Lebaniego (also a little gem) in 2014.

The Salvador wins in the beauty of the countryside, the fact that you can still feel you are doing something a bit special and, related to that, the tranquility. There are a couple of things to bear in mind however – see below!

The route is stunning and varied. Day one coming out of Leon reminded me not unreasonably of some of the scenery on the Camino Frances near Leon. What is great is that you get out of the city of Leon so quickly after San Marcos past new residential districts and not the endless industrial or post-industrial cityscape on the French route. Days four and five as you get into Asturias and near Oviedo are quite similar to the Primitivo, but hillier. The second and third days are real hill or even mountain-walking, really spectacular and quite unlike anything on either of the other caminos. Day three going over the pass of Pajares has so many different landscapes in one day.

The hostels I stayed in (La Robla, Poladura de Tercia, Pajares and Pola de Lena) are all newish, good and well-equipped. The first two nights there were six of us – a group of 3 Spanish men from Madrid, two men from Spain walking solo and me. By day three we had thinned out to two of us – four did a ‘double day’ including Pajares (rather them than me!) and the fourth night I was alone in the hostel, definitely a first, as the other man had returned to Leon. From what I have read on here, around six people is the norm in summer.

It isn’t a route which stands out for its historical buildings and art but when you have Leon and Oviedo at the beginning and end you can hardly complain! There is a pearl of pre-Romanesque art in Santa Cristina de Lena. The villages are pretty - most houses are renovated, looked after and with plentiful flowers. The small towns are workaday with some evidence of decline – lots of posters and graffiti talk about the mines closing – though I am not sure when that is or was.

A couple of things to bear in mind. It is quite tough. Even if you only average 25km a day, the hills on most days make it seem far more. It is not a walk to launch straight into if you are not pretty fit. I am pretty fit though my preparation was definitely not the best – a 22 hour flight via London from Bangkok on the Tuesday with six hours of time difference, then one day of semi recovery, which included the bus to Leon, and then off on Thursday morning after two fairly sleepless nights! You also have to carry food – once for lunch, breakfast and the next day’s lunch. You could get dinner every night even if you had to reserve it twice! There are not so many fountains. It is well worth checking the guide on this point.

The only other downside is that it is only five days, though you can continue on the Primitivo. Just as you get into your stride and routine, fully relaxed and have cast off the rest of the world, it finishes. It is still wonderful. So, which route next?

 

[peregrina2000]

So, which route next?

How much time do you have?

Have you thought about the Invierno? the Olvidado? the Catalán (particularly starting in Port de la Selva or Llanca, going through Montserrat, and then on to Huesca)? I'm thinking of ones that have some mountainous parts. The Levante from Toledo northward would also be a good one. There is no shortage of caminos, just a shortage of time! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Rover]

Aglass, thank you for your Salvador post; it was excellent and very helpful. I am walking the CF in mid September, starting in SJPP. I have been researching alternative Camino's off the Frances to mix things up and to

3 in one

I walked the Camino Del Salvador from 30 June to 4 July this year and would like to share my thoughts for anyone thinking of doing it. It is a stunning route and one I would fully recommend. I have previously done the Frances in 2003, the Primitivo in 2013 and the Lebaniego (also a little gem) in 2014.

The Salvador wins in the beauty of the countryside, the fact that you can still feel you are doing something a bit special and, related to that, the tranquility. There are a couple of things to bear in mind however – see below!

The route is stunning and varied. Day one coming out of Leon reminded me not unreasonably of some of the scenery on the Camino Frances near Leon. What is great is that you get out of the city of Leon so quickly after San Marcos past new residential districts and not the endless industrial or post-industrial cityscape on the French route. Days four and five as you get into Asturias and near Oviedo are quite similar to the Primitivo, but hillier. The second and third days are real hill or even mountain-walking, really spectacular and quite unlike anything on either of the other caminos. Day three going over the pass of Pajares has so many different landscapes in one day.

The hostels I stayed in (La Robla, Poladura de Tercia, Pajares and Pola de Lena) are all newish, good and well-equipped. The first two nights there were six of us – a group of 3 Spanish men from Madrid, two men from Spain walking solo and me. By day three we had thinned out to two of us – four did a ‘double day’ including Pajares (rather them than me!) and the fourth night I was alone in the hostel, definitely a first, as the other man had returned to Leon. From what I have read on here, around six people is the norm in summer.

It isn’t a route which stands out for its historical buildings and art but when you have Leon and Oviedo at the beginning and end you can hardly complain! There is a pearl of pre-Romanesque art in Santa Cristina de Lena. The villages are pretty - most houses are renovated, looked after and with plentiful flowers. The small towns are workaday with some evidence of decline – lots of posters and graffiti talk about the mines closing – though I am not sure when that is or was.

A couple of things to bear in mind. It is quite tough. Even if you only average 25km a day, the hills on most days make it seem far more. It is not a walk to launch straight into if you are not pretty fit. I am pretty fit though my preparation was definitely not the best – a 22 hour flight via London from Bangkok on the Tuesday with six hours of time difference, then one day of semi recovery, which included the bus to Leon, and then off on Thursday morning after two fairly sleepless nights! You also have to carry food – once for lunch, breakfast and the next day’s lunch. You could get dinner every night even if you had to reserve it twice! There are not so many fountains. It is well worth checking the guide on this point.

The only other downside is that it is only five days, though you can continue on the Primitivo. Just as you get into your stride and routine, fully relaxed and have cast off the rest of the world, it finishes. It is still wonderful. So, which route next?

 

[Rover]

Aglass, thanks for your post. I am walking the CF in September and have been looking at alt routes to enhance my experience, the San Salvador is on my list, now a must deviation which I will take. You mentioned a few albergues you stayed at which I presume you are recommending. Any recommendations re bars/cafes or are they all are good? Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

 

[Rover]

Hi Andrew,
A very good description of the Salvador, thank you! Though I did it in six days not five. I walked it last year and intend walking it again this year too!

Davey

Andrew. you said you did the Salvador in about 6 days. It this about the same amount of time it would have taken you if you stayed on the CF or was this time over and above that? Make sense?

 

[Davey Boyd]

Andrew. you said you did the Salvador in about 6 days. It this about the same amount of time it would have taken you if you stayed on the CF or was this time over and above that? Make sense?

Hi Rover,

I think if you walk the Frances to Leon then divert to the San Salvador to Oviedo, then Primitivo to Santiago you can expect it to take 6-7 days longer than going straight down the Camino Frances to Santiago. But boy is it worth it!

Yes I took 6 days on the San Salvador (you can take less or more time as you wish but I found this comfortable) and the Primitivo to Santiago took me 15 days

Davey

 

[camino07]

I will be in Leon on 23rd September this year and would love company to walk the Salvador. Will anyone be starting around then,I could wait a day. If not, I will most likely chicken out doing it alone .
Will then bus to Oviedo as I'm happy to walk the Primitivo alone.

Heather

 

[peregrina2000]

Heather, I'm not trying to encourage you to do something you're not comfortable with, but one idea would be to walk to La Robla on Day 1 and see if you meet other pilgrims in the Albergue there. I think the odds of finding the five or six people likely to be walking that day here on the forum are very low. If you don't meet anyone in the Albergue, and if you're still feeling hesitant, you can hop on a bus there. If you have Ender's guide with you, it would be very hard to go wrong. And that first day from Leon is not mountainous, no remote stretches, etc. Of course the weather might not cooperate either, but that is also something that's easy to check out in La Robla. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

You could also ask on the Salvador FB page, if they allow such posts. It's in Spanish, but it may be worth a try.

 

[camino07]

Heather, I'm not trying to encourage you to do something you're not comfortable with, but one idea would be to walk to La Robla on Day 1 and see if you meet other pilgrims in the Albergue there. I think the odds of finding the five or six people likely to be walking that day here on the forum are very low. If you don't meet anyone in the Albergue, and if you're still feeling hesitant, you can hop on a bus there. If you have Ender's guide with you, it would be very hard to go wrong. And that first day from Leon is not mountainous, no remote stretches, etc. Of course the weather might not cooperate either, but that is also something that's easy to check out in La Robla. Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks for the encouragement,Laurie.
I think I will do that and as you say see how I feel at la Robla. I lost my eldest son a month ago and can't wait get out in the Spanish countryside to clear my mind.
I have read lots and will print out Enders guide.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Heather, just sent you a PM. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Rover]

I will be in Leon on 23rd September this year and would love company to walk the Salvador. Will anyone be starting around then,I could wait a day. If not, I will most likely chicken out doing it alone .
Will then bus to Oviedo as I'm happy to walk the Primitivo alone.

Heather

Hi Heather, nice to meet you! I am seriously considering taking the El Salvador out of Leon but like you, think I would also like to hike that segment to Oviedo with a companion. Unfortunately, I am not leaving SJPP until September 23rd, so I'm running several days behind you. If you're plans change, let me know.

 

[camino07]

Hi Heather, nice to meet you! I am seriously considering taking the El Salvador out of Leon but like you, think I would also like to hike that segment to Oviedo with a companion. Unfortunately, I am not leaving SJPP until September 23rd, so I'm running several days behind you. If you're plans change, let me know.

Nice thought Rover but it will take you about 2 weeks to reach Leon by which time you will be loving the Frances and won't want to leave it. I have walked it 5 times and you get hooked
Buen Camino