Special albergues on the Meseta

[jungleboy]

I'm looking for special albergues on the Meseta for an article I'm writing. These are the three that I have thought of. Can you think of any others with religious/historical/architectural significance?

The ruins of the monastery of San Antón
Ermita de San Nicolás
Convento de Santa Clara (Carrión de los Condes)

Thanks in advance!

 

[amancio]

Bercianos del Real Camino with the nuns is a most remarkable old clay house, and great atmosphere

 

[VNwalking]

In addition to San Antón and San Nicolás:
Santa Maria del Camino, also in Carrion de los Condes.
It's one of the really special ones.
Edit: Also, for as long as Laura is still the hospitalera, the Municipal in Mansilla de las Mulas

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

In Castrojeriz the private albergue Ultreia has a large wine press over the dining table. After dinner we were invited to explore a tunnel that extended under the street. It served as a bodega and a defensive place of hiding.

Albergue Ultreia, Castrojeriz :: Albergues del Camino de Santiago

Información completa sobre el albergue Ultreia de Castrojeriz: dirección, contacto, características, precios, horarios, plazas, y más datos de utilidad.

www.alberguescaminosantiago.com

 

[SabineP]

In addition to San Antón and San Nicolás:
Santa Maria del Camino, also in Carrion de los Condes.
It's one of the really special ones.
Edit: Also, for as long as Laura is still the hospitalera, the Municipal in Mansilla de las Mulas

Laura : the queen of blister treatment! Such a wonderful albergue. One of the best nights on my first Camino.

 

[mspath]

Laura : the queen of blister treatment! Such a wonderful albergue. One of the best nights on my first Camino.

Indeed; this is a special place with true caritas.

From my blog of November 21, 2014,

"Monday at dawn the rain had ceased and the pale blue sky was luminous with that special glow of an early medieval painting; at last the day was perfect for walking!
I walked on to Mansilla de las Mulas east of Leon where in the municipal albergue a special hospitalera, Laura, has served for many years; now she and her father manage the place together.
Over time much space has been re-purposed; what was a shower is storage, new showers are now on the patio and a tiny entry level dorm has become the supplementary dining area. Many potted plants brighten the interior and electric heaters provide warmth these cold nights. Most pilgrims cook and congregate in the comfortable kitchen where Laura offers a multitude of advice on shops, routes or blister care, etc.
She greets each pilgrim personally and always gives me a big hug remembering my name and earlier visits.
Thus ...in her distinctive way Laura has created a 'pilgrim home' with much ambiance and soul. All who stop are richer for the experience."

 

[lt56ny]

Bercianos del Real Camino with the nuns is a most remarkable old clay house, and great atmosphere

I have walked on the Meseta 3 times. There are some really nice places with good memories that I stayed at. But the Albergue Parrpquial Casa Rectoral in Bercianos holds the most special of memories. It was 8 years ago but I am sure it is as wonderful as ever. Yes it is old and the floors creak. The welcome could not be warmer and friendlier. I helped prepare the communal dinner. I just chopped up stuff for the salad. We had a wonderful dinner and they had people gather from the country they were from with other pilgrims from their country to explain and sing a song that represented the spirit or culture of their country. It was so much fun. After dinner there many of us went into a small chapel with candles and there was just a wonderful young priest who spoke to us in Spanish and English we had a meditation together that was non sectarian and made everyone no matter their religious affiliation or no affiliation at all feel welcomed and comfortable. There was a nice breakfast in the morning. You grabbed your backpack and made a right out the door and off to walk so more of the Meseta.
So sad but the last two times I walked the CF it was too late in the year and this wonderful place was closed.

​

 

[elleley]

Bercianos del Real Camino with the nuns is a most remarkable old clay house, and great atmosphere

Agree! Communal meal, no WIFI, special little chapel, spectacular stone floor and outstanding hospitality...

 

[Turga]

The Albergue los Templarios in Terradillos de los Templarios. Situated ‘in the middle of nowhere’ with a fence all around it, the gate of which is locked at 10m PM – but that’s all right as there is nowhere to go. A very warm welcome by the hospitalera and dinner served at small tables. At night, a fabulous ‘unpolluted’ view to the starry night sky.

This large painting on the wall behind the bar:

 

[jungleboy]

Thank you wonderful people!

 

[roving_rufus]

On a different note is Betania's winter albergue. It's not historic or archectictural special! But it is special! The couple run a small winter albergue in Fromista with an incredibly warm welcome and care...they spent the evening with 3 pilgrims of differing languages making a jigsaw on a bitterly cold January night...it's one of my favourite memories of the camino

 

[SabineP]

On a different note is Betania's winter albergue. It's not historic or archectictural special! But it is special! The couple run a small winter albergue in Fromista with an incredibly warm welcome and care...they spent the evening with 3 pilgrims of differing languages making a jigsaw on a bitterly cold January night...it's one of my favourite memories of the camino

They only open when all others are closed.

Albergue Betania | Wise Pilgrim Camino Guides & Apps

Albergue Betania; Private accommodation in Frómista. More info available

www.wisepilgrim.com

 

[Priscilla NC]

I stayed at the Albergue de Santa Cruz in Sahagun in 2016 and 2019. In 2016 it was the worst experience on my pilgrimage. I found that the management had changed, and had a completely opposite experience in 2019. I would now say that it's one of the best stays on the Meseta. I was in lots of pain, and they took such good care of me. For 5 euros, I had a private bed and bath.

 

[Tincatinker]

Nick, I know it’s not what you’re looking for but the best Albergue anywhere, anytime, is the one in which I lie my weary head at the end of another day on Camino. Some have history, some have none. Some have every facility, some have few. Some have been as welcoming as my mother’s arms, some more like London to a runaway with no money in his skip.
None of which should really matter to a pilgrim or a passenger on the road.
All that typed: the municipal at Castrojerez will remain in my heart forever. Stark modern building; a mattress on the floor. And a welcome for a pilgrim.

 

[NorthernLight]

I adored the big albergue in Roncesvalles my first time through. I had just come off the Le Puy and there was this cadillac of spotlessly clean, modern, communal sleeping space.

Otherwise, I’m with Tinc, any safe spot to lay my head at day’s end will do.

 

[AlwynWellington]

I'm looking for special albergues on the Meseta for an article I'm writing. These are the three that I have thought of. Can you think of any others with religious/historical/architectural significance?

On entering Hontanas, Albergue de Juan Yepes. New (2015?) - private - built as an albergue - great care given when I went lame there - great reception when I returned 18 months to complete.

 

[Doughnut NZ]

I stayed at the Albergue de Santa Cruz in Sahagun in 2016 and 2019. In 2016 it was the worst experience on my pilgrimage. I found that the management had changed, and had a completely opposite experience in 2019. I would now say that it's one of the best stays on the Meseta. I was in lots of pain, and they took such good care of me. For 5 euros, I had a private bed and bath.

I also stayed here in 2019 and it is at the top of my list for when I go back to Spain.

A great welcome, a real bed in a room to myself with my own shower and bathroom. An invitation to afternoon tea and a group chat that I really needed that day. An invitation to mass at a beautiful church around the corner and then topped off with a shared dinner where I got to cook two slightly different chicken curries. All for E10.

 

[Gadflyparexcellence]

Indeed; this is a special place with true caritas.

From my blog of November 21, 2014,

"Monday at dawn the rain had ceased and the pale blue sky was luminous with that special glow of an early medieval painting; at last the day was perfect for walking!
I walked on to Mansilla de las Mulas east of Leon where in the municipal albergue a special hospitalera, Laura, has served for many years; now she and her father manage the place together.
Over time much space has been re-purposed; what was a shower is storage, new showers are now on the patio and a tiny entry level dorm has become the supplementary dining area. Many potted plants brighten the interior and electric heaters provide warmth these cold nights. Most pilgrims cook and congregate in the comfortable kitchen where Laura offers a multitude of advice on shops, routes or blister care, etc.
She greets each pilgrim personally and always gives me a big hug remembering my name and earlier visits.
Thus ...in her distinctive way Laura has created a 'pilgrim home' with much ambiance and soul. All who stop are richer for the experience."

Very evocative description. mspath, your profile indicates that you're from France. But you writing seems to have an American flavor to it. My apologies in advance should I sound offensive.

 

[JabbaPapa]

The best Albergue on the Meseta is on a field of wheat and under a field of stars.

 

[David Tallan]

I stayed at the Albergue de Santa Cruz in Sahagun in 2016 and 2019. In 2016 it was the worst experience on my pilgrimage. I found that the management had changed, and had a completely opposite experience in 2019. I would now say that it's one of the best stays on the Meseta. I was in lots of pain, and they took such good care of me. For 5 euros, I had a private bed and bath.

Good to know. Now I don't feel bad about staying elsewhere in 2016.

 

[barnettstakeagiantstep]

I'm looking for special albergues on the Meseta for an article I'm writing. These are the three that I have thought of. Can you think of any others with religious/historical/architectural significance?

The ruins of the monastery of San Antón
Ermita de San Nicolás
Convento de Santa Clara (Carrión de los Condes)

Thanks in advance!

Love, love San Anton I highly recommend La Fabrica in Tardajos. Has it all clean very nice rooms, food, drink, hospitality and laundry.

 

[Jodean]

St.Nicolas was my favorite of all the places I have stayed and I hope to go back there again, as well as stay at St.Anton.
(my profile photo is from dinner at St. Nicolas)

 

[jungleboy]

Thanks again for the responses! I mentioned a few of the albergues in the article, which is here:
Six Reasons Not to Skip the Meseta

 

[Scorpio1983]

That's a really nice article. I believe Orion is for sale though, so unsure if they're going to be there next year

 

[jungleboy]

That's a really nice article. I believe Orion is for sale though, so unsure if they're going to be there next year

Thank you! That's a shame about Orion as I have nice memories from there.

 

[Allyson Hughes]

The Albergue los Templarios in Terradillos de los Templarios. Situated ‘in the middle of nowhere’ with a fence all around it, the gate of which is locked at 10m PM – but that’s all right as there is nowhere to go. A very warm welcome by the hospitalera and dinner served at small tables. At night, a fabulous ‘unpolluted’ view to the starry night sky.

This large painting on the wall behind the bar:

View attachment 88079

I remember walking by that!!

 

[Ian L]

The Albergue los Templarios in Terradillos de los Templarios. Situated ‘in the middle of nowhere’ with a fence all around it, the gate of which is locked at 10m PM – but that’s all right as there is nowhere to go. A very warm welcome by the hospitalera and dinner served at small tables. At night, a fabulous ‘unpolluted’ view to the starry night sky.

This large painting on the wall behind the bar:

View attachment 88079

I enjoyed my stay there also. It's pretty close to the middle of the Frances when starting from SJPP.

 

[Allyson Hughes]

I was disappointed the last time I did the camino that too many people are reserving these fine albergues and the wandering pilgrims can't even have a shot at them. For this reason, I don't give out too many good albergues to the forum.

 

[Doughnut NZ]

I was disappointed the last time I did the camino that too many people are reserving these fine albergues and the wandering pilgrims can't even have a shot at them. For this reason, I don't give out too many good albergues to the forum.

Do you fish?

 

[VNwalking]

Do you fish?

I assume you are referring to secret trout pools? (Many of my friends in Taupo claimed to have their own secret spot that they would never reveal...)

 

[Doughnut NZ]

I assume you are referring to secret trout pools? (Many of my friends in Taupo claimed to have their own secret spot that they would never reveal...)

Sort of, the comment was a bit more general. I am not a trout fisherman but I do love fishing from boats out on the ocean, especially on days like this.





Not the photo I wanted but it will suffice.

What I share with many trout fishermen though and some people don't get is that it is more about being in a superb environment often with someone you are so atuned to that there is little reason for conversation. Catching fish is an optional bonus that comes from the intellectual effort of sometimes outsmarting a fish.



Edit: I sidetracked myself. Yes the ocean has its special spots just like those secret trout pools and most fishermen don't share the best ones.

 

[Allyson Hughes]

Do you fish?

I assume you are referring to secret trout pools? (Many of my friends in Taupo claimed to have their own secret spot that they would never reveal...)

 

[Allyson Hughes]

Do you fish?

No I don't...but I think I know what you mean....you don't give away where the good fishing is....!!!

 

[motero99]

In Hornillos I stayed at the Meeting Point in 2019. It was run by a brother and sister. Dinner was an outstanding paella. The kitchen area was open if you wanted to watch her cook. I was the only American that night. On one side of me was a group of Italians and on the other a French group. Both groups competed to keep my wine glass full.
The next night in Castrojeriz I stayed at the Ultreia. It was a great experience. The food was good. The had both red wine and sangria. The other folks preferred the wine and I enjoyed the sangria. After dinner, the host explained how the wine press worked and you could work the capstan if you so desired. This was followed by a tour into the basement which connected to some ancient ruins from the Roman times. The host said that that area was undergoing exploration in the fall. He pointed out a passageway that had been recently discovered.
Both places are worth a stop if those are your endpoints for the day.

 

[David Tallan]

Re: Fishing and favourite albergues.

I will always share my favourite albergues, some of which take reservations and some of which don't. It is part and parcel of how I do "being a pilgrim" and part of what I find most rewarding about the experience. Yes, being a "wandering pilgrim" and happening across great experiences by serendipity is a wonderful part of the pilgrim experience. But for me, much more essential to the pilgrim experience is the pilgrim community and the way pilgrims share, encourage, support and help each other. And sharing knowledge of our favourite albergues is part of that. And if it happens to be full or booked when I get there, so be it. I'm sure the pilgrims who are there will be enjoying their stay. (And maybe I'll make the extra effort, either booking ahead or leaving early, the next time. Or maybe not and find another wonderful place or experience.)

 

[barnettstakeagiantstep]

St.Nicolas was my favorite of all the places I have stayed and I hope to go back there again, as well as stay at St.Anton.
(my profile photo is from dinner at St. Nicolas)

And did you meet Franz the wandering hospitalero?

 

[trecile]

My favorite Meseta albergue is La Finca in Población de Campos, four km past Fromista. The "bunks" are wonderful. Each one is like a tiny room and includes real sheets and a blanket. And no ladders - the upper bunks are accessed by tiny staircases. There is an optional communal dinner, and they even let your use the washing machine for no charge!

 

[linkster]

Yes the ocean has its special spots just like those secret trout pools and most fishermen don't share the best ones.

When I am sitting on a reef, I will look at my radar and see who is around ... if they are stationary for a while ... I use my GPS to mark their location ... next time in the area ... I check their spot to see what type of structure they were on. I have picked up several "special spots" that way.