Special places deserving exploration on C. Frances

[Sue Blue Mountains]

Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue

 

[Kiwi-family]

Assuming this is your first trip to this part of Spain (maybe to Spain itself), everywhere you go will be interesting if your eyes are open to see. Your plan to not have a plan is a great one If you end up wanting to wander round Pamplona or Burgos or Leon or anywhere for an extra day, all well and good. If you want to walk on, then walk. The times we made special plans to be somewhere in particular (like Granon), we were sometimes disappointed (in that case the albergue was temporarily closed). There's a wonderful freedom in taking each day as it comes and walking with an expectant spirit.

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

A very good point, thanks.

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue

Hi Sue, the monestary of Samos is a very nice place to visit.
Wish you well and a Buen Camino, Peter.

 

[Kanga]

The Camino Frances is a treasure trove of art and history - you could spend months if you chose to. Most is ignored and unexplored by walkers who are fixed on accommodation, food, doing the washing, social interactions with other pilgrims and getting to Santiago. Which is fine, but people do not know what they are missing when, for example, they just walk through Burgos, give the Cathedral a cursory glance, and out the other side. The Road to Santiago, A Complete Cultural Handbook (Gitlitz and Davidson) can be dowloaded on a Kindle App and is an invaluable guide to "unmissable" sites along the way. I'm a great fan of those hired audio guides too - worth getting whenever they are offered.

In terms of general planning, an extra night in the big cities (Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León), allow time to see the church at Los Arcos, Navarette (and turn the lights on by puting some money in the box) where the retablos will blow your mind, ditto the church at Villarcalzar de Sirga. Actually this list just goes on and on....

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

The Camino Frances is a treasure trove of art and history - you could spend months if you chose to. Most is ignored and unexplored by walkers who are fixed on accommodation, food, doing the washing, social interactions with other pilgrims and getting to Santiago. Which is fine, but people do not know what they are missing when, for example, they just walk through Burgos, give the Cathedral a cursory glance, and out the other side. The Road to Santiago, A Complete Cultural Handbook (Gitlitz and Davidson) can be dowloaded on a Kindle App and is an invaluable guide to "unmissable" sites along the way. I'm a great fan of those hired audio guides too - worth getting whenever they are offered.

In terms of general planning, an extra night in the big cities (Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León), allow time to see the church at Los Arcos, Navarette (and turn the lights on by puting some money in the box) where the retablos will blow your mind, ditto the church at Villarcalzar de Sirga. Actually this list just goes on and on....

Thanks Kanga - will definitely check out the Kindle App. Cheers.

 

[Kanga]

@Sue - Katoomba Snowgums I have the book in hardcover form, but it is too heavy to carry - hence the suggestion of the Kindle App. Also allows you to read other books along the way, without the weight.

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

Sue we took 44 days so that we could look around as much as possible. One of our many highlights was Atapuerca for several reasons. On a Sunday afternoon we walked down from the church to the little Museum and got a spot on a bus trip to the UNESCO World Heritage archaeological site of the caves of the Sierra de Atapuerca. Totally unexpected and a wonderful educational trip. There were only 6 of us in the group and we were treated to our very own tour as our guide was rapt to be able to practice her english. Then back for a meal at Como Sapiens with its wonderful food and the whole experience - you have to go there!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I enjoyed wandering all around the small towns of Ages, El Ganso and Rabanal taking photos.

 

[Tincatinker]

For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

Hi Sue, I wouldn't take the writings of the blessed John Brierley as gospel. I've found Zubiri to be a charming little place with a warm welcome for Pilgrim's and excellent facilities. Bits of the Camino pass through industrial and urban areas, bits through agricultural and wilder country. Its all the same Way.

And a place to make a special visit? The diversion to Vilar de Donas and the Igrexa san Salvador a little before Palas de Rei is well worth the effort. The frescoes are exquisite.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Another thought. When Peg and I went from Leon to Astorga we went the way of Villar de Mazarife when the option came at La Virgen del Camino. Nothing super about it but we actually walked past natural meadows in addition to agricultural fields. That was a change.

 

[DowtyCamino]

I swear we spent 4 hours just looking at the Retablo at Santa Domingo de la Calzada. Later in the day we were surprised to talk to so many companions that hadn't taken the time to stop by the cathedral. Most didn't know about it. We wouldn't have had we not read ahead.

 

[movinmaggie]

A very good point, thanks.

And if you've mustered up some Spanish, ask the locals. Folks in the pharmacias, I discovered (with all my Compeed purchases) usually speak excellent English. I did regret missing the Monastery in Samos.

 

[Canucks]

I definitely agree with the person that said the Samos abbey. And the little restaurant across from the gas station had a wonderful homemade paella. The most magical evening of the trip, listening to their evening service and the monks singing.
Tapa bars in Pamplona, huge gold churches in tiny towns throughout, huge cathedrals in big cities, great restaurant in the cave in the little village that starts with an M.
Moratinos? A frequent female poster on here is from there.......I think. All this is from bad memory. Very rules oriented little basic hotel there....german run, I think.
The walk up to O Cebriero was great because it was steep but we were fit.
All was good, but the little memories meeting people along the way were the most enduring.

 

[Phillypilgrim]

I agree, Samos.
I showed up for the monastery tour, and was the only one! The lovely tour guide gave me a private tour in English. I stayed at the hotel across the street that night and had the paella! The walk from Samos to Sarria is very lovely too.

 

[SYates]

Also, if you treat yourself to a rest day, treat yourself also to a pension. That way you can, f.e., enjoy the Calle Laurel (tapas mile) in Logroño without curfew. Buen Camino, SY

 

[DMZwalker]

Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue

Leaving Triacastela take the alternate route through Samos. North of Samos the walk leaves LU-633 just past Teiguin and goes through a beautiful river valley that takes you to Aguiada and back on the main route to Sarria. I found this walk on 10/22 to be almost magical including running in to a local riding a donkey packing a couple of bags of chestnuts. No established water on the route but about half way you will find a natural spring coming down a hillside on the right side of the road. Buen Camino!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

It's me once again. I almost forgot the Royal Pantheon.

Places where you may want a full day to visit and rest (likely meaning "spend two nights"): Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Astorga, Santiago.

In Leon there is the gothic cathedral of course but during the camino I found a great appreciation for the romanesque period. The camino in Leon passes the Basilica of San Isidoro and attached to that is a museum that conatains books and other objects of that period but there were two things that absolutely fascinated me, the Royal Pantheon and the chalice of Dona Urraca, one of the Holy Grails that Europe is so full of. The Royal Pantheon is sometimes called the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art" and a recent book documented the chalice (and did such a job that it might be off display for awhile.) See links below.

Places to avoid: Consider (carefully choosing that word) avoiding the hike into Burgos, the one out of Leon and the one through Ponferrada. The pavement could ruin your walk. Nobody mentions this but the medieval pilgrims took the bus for these sections too.

For Burgos we walked past the airport and stayed at the Hotel Buenos Aires in Villafria and used the bus that stops right there to visit the city for an afternoon and the next day. Then we walked the camino in reverse for about 45 minutes and at a spot with options we took the alternate route to go to the Rio Arianzon at Castanares, crossed the river and follwed it on its south bank past Burgos until it met up with the camino again. In Leon We walked the camino through the industrial area and somewhat farther and the pavement injured Peg so much we could go no farther for 5 days. In Ponferrada we took the bus to Camponaraya to avoid the pavement (made up for by the walk from Finisterre to Muxia; she's a trooper.)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalice_of_Doña_Urraca
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Isidoro
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/basilica-of-san-isidoro/royal-pantheon
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/

[Edited: Originally I wrote that we stayed at the Hotel Puerta Romeros in Villafria. We stayed at the Hotel Buenos Aires there and Hotel Puerta Romeros at the other side of Burgos.]
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/

 

[SYates]

... Nobody mentions this but the medieval pilgrims took the bus for these sections too. ...

I seriously doubt that SY

 

[Anniesantiago]

One place many people miss is the wonderful Museu de Pobo Gallego in Santiago.
It is a fantastic folk museum.

Also, the Museu de Chocolate in Astorga is worth seeing the vintage film they show.

If you arrive early enough, you can get a ride out to the dig site at Atapuerca from the Museum of Evolution in Burgos.

I agree with taking the route through Samos. To me it is much more beautiful.

Those are the few I can think of offhand.

 

[mspath]

Please do visit the extraordinary church of Santa Maria de Eunate. Located just off the Camino Frances near Puenta La Reina and the junction with the Camino Argones. More than one thousand years old here one senses the peace of eternity. To read what others and I have written about this most special holy place see https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/eunate-church-the-essential-detour.15568/

Do be aware that the albergue at Eunate is no longer available for passing pilgrims and that the church is generally closed on Mondays.

 

[movinmaggie]

It's me once again. I almost forgot the Royal Pantheon.

Places where you may want a full day to visit and rest (likely meaning "spend two nights"): Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Astorga, Santiago.

In Leon there is the gothic cathedral of course but during the camino I found a great appreciation for the romanesque period. The camino in Leon passes the Basilica of San Isidoro and attached to that is a museum that conatains books and other objects of that period but there were two things that absolutely fascinated me, the Royal Pantheon and the chalice of Dona Urraca, one of the Holy Grails that Europe is so full of. The Royal Pantheon is sometimes called the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art" and a recent book documented the chalice (and did such a job that it might be off display for awhile.) See links below.

Places to avoid: Consider (carefully choosing that word) avoiding the hike into Burgos, the one out of Leon and the one through Ponferrada. The pavement could ruin your walk. Nobody mentions this but the medieval pilgrims took the bus for these sections too.

For Burgos we walked past the airport and stayed at the Hotel Puerta Romeros in Villafria and used the bus that stops right there to visit the city for an afternoon and the next day. Then we walked the camino in reverse for about 45 minutes and at a spot with options we took the alternate route to go to the Rio Arianzon at Castanares, crossed the river and follwed it on its south bank past Burgos until it met up with the camino again. In Leon We walked the camino through the industrial area and somewhat farther and the pavement injured Peg so much we could go no farther for 5 days. In Ponferrada we took the bus to Camponaraya to avoid the pavement (made up for by the walk from Finisterre to Muxia; she's a trooper.)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalice_of_Doña_Urraca
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Isidoro
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/basilica-of-san-isidoro/royal-pantheon
http://www.santogrialdeleon.org/en/

And I thought you were new....

 

[C clearly]

The Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas was a pleasant surprise. (I like to go to museums but usually breeze through quite quickly.) It is very well laid out, with explanations in Spanish and English, showing how people in that region have lived over the past hundreds of years. It set the stage nicely for walking through villages where I could start to recognize types of buildings and agricultural practices. It was worth waiting until the 10 a.m. opening, spending an hour or two at the museum, and still making it to Leon that day.

 

[jimabfalter]

Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue

The Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas was a pleasant surprise. (I like to go to museums but usually breeze through quite quickly.) It is very well laid out, with explanations in Spanish and English, showing how people in that region have lived over the past hundreds of years. It set the stage nicely for walking through villages where I could start to recognize types of buildings and agricultural practices. It was worth waiting until the 10 a.m. opening, spending an hour or two at the museum, and still making it to Leon that day.

Astorga is wonderful. If you are interested and want to spend a bit of money I can give you the name of a great hotel and a couple of wonderful restaurants if you would like.

 

[cmsmith]

The Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas was a pleasant surprise. (I like to go to museums but usually breeze through quite quickly.) It is very well laid out, with explanations in Spanish and English, showing how people in that region have lived over the past hundreds of years. It set the stage nicely for walking through villages where I could start to recognize types of buildings and agricultural practices. It was worth waiting until the 10 a.m. opening, spending an hour or two at the museum, and still making it to Leon that day.

Definitely agree that the Museo Etnografica in Mansilla de las Mulas is excellent.

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

Hi Sue, I wouldn't take the writings of the blessed John Brierley as gospel. I've found Zubiri to be a charming little place with a warm welcome for Pilgrim's and excellent facilities. Bits of the Camino pass through industrial and urban areas, bits through agricultural and wilder country. Its all the same Way.

And a place to make a special visit? The diversion to Vilar de Donas and the Igrexa san Salvador a little before Palas de Rei is well worth the effort. The frescoes are exquisite.

Thanks Tincatinker - I get what you mean about the book. I'm sure everyone's experience is different anyway and I will look at Zubiri with eyes seeking the charming, not condemning the mundane - anyway, that's my hope hey? Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Eunate for sure. Of you decide to walk to Samos, when in Triacastala take 10 minutes to viait a beautifully restaured ermita on the alternate Camino, then trace back your steps to head to Samos. The Templar castle in Ponferrada: right out of a fairytale. Eat cocido maragato in Astorga. Spend some time looking at Rabanal's beautiful architecture. Walk through Leon's barrio humedo and the area to the left of the cathedral when you are facing it. The museum next to the cathedral is intereing and infact the audioguide to the catherdral is one of the best I have listend to. It explains why the physics of the cathedral are so extraordinary. La casa del cordon in Burgos. In Fromista, the retablo in the church that is up the road amd still operating as a church. It has an knteresting history and the caretaker will give you a bit of a tour.

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

Astorga is wonderful. If you are interested and want to spend a bit of money I can give you the name of a great hotel and a couple of wonderful restaurants if you would like.

Thanks jimabfalter, always glad of info so, yes, please pass on names of hotel and wonderful restaurants.

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

I read on another post (sorry, can't remember who wrote it) that the pope has declared 2016 a "Holy Year" which means there might be more pilgrims on the Camino, especially on special dates like Easter. The person who posted this attached this link:

http://caminoways.com/2016-holy-year-pilgrims#.VqClhzqn4gU

 

[annakappa]

We are already into Holy Year, which will end on Cristo Rey ( Christ the King), which is the last Sunday before Advent starts.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Also, if you treat yourself to a rest day, treat yourself also to a pension. That way you can, f.e., enjoy the Calle Laurel (tapas mile) in Logroño without curfew. Buen Camino, SY

Ah, Logrono. The most under-appreciated city on the Camino! Not just for its historic district and the San Matteo.... But forthe vibrant modern city on the other side of the Parque del Espolon. Reminds me of the vibrant Mexico City of the 60's, where I grew up.

 

[vgen5122]

You may want to rethink not stopping in the town of Zubiri. The next town beyond Zubiri is Larrsonna (not sure of the spelling) . It is about 10km ahead of Zubiri. It is a nice town but the services there are limited. I stayed one night there in the municipal albergue. Buen Camino.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

You may want to rethink not stopping in the town of Zubiri. The next town beyond Zubiri is Larrsonna (not sure of the spelling) . It is about 10km ahead of Zubiri. It is a nice town but the services there are limited. I stayed one night there in the municipal albergue. Buen Camino.

And of the waether is nice, dipping your feet in the river that runs under the puente de la rabia and napping on the lawn next to it makes for a pleasant afternoon.

 

[gypsywind]

Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue

Hello Sue, yes I am interested in hearing some of those replies, also I know these responses are all just ideas, but I love hearing all these ideas, with the plan that on my travels I may come upon a village and think "oh I heard of a great café or chapel or cheesemaker here, I will stop and investigate!" I would be happy if I finish my Camino having seen and stayed places that the masses have not stopped at. (though still finding myself attached to Brierly at the hip as a security blanket,) as this is my first Camino, and I am going solo. Please, keep Favorites lists coming. I leave STJPP April 1st, hope to see you out there. Buen Camino

 

[Canucks]

Another thumbs up for tapas bars in Logrono. It was our funnest extra day on the trip. We were there in September for the last day of some sort of festival of grapes......met by a marching band every time we stepped outside!! Very nice.

 

[mary flo]

Hello everyone,
I will be walking the Camino Frances starting March (yay!). I will have enough time to explore a few places along the route - has anyone any favourites? I'm not talking about albergues specifically, but perhaps gorgeous townscapes, friendly cafes etc. Or perhaps, any places that people find not worth a visit (yes, I know, it's a personal preference). For example, it sounds as though Zubiri is industrial and not necessarily worth staying in unless my feet tell me its time to stop.

I'm not actually planning anything but if I know a particular place is really lovely, I might adapt where I stay in order to spend a bit of time there. For instance, I'm hoping to spend a bit of a day hanging out in Pamplona so might go on to Cizur Menor in the early arvo which is just a short hop
after seeing the town.

Any thoughts gratefully received.
Cheers, Sue

Hi Sue! I will be setting out in March too, the 15th from SJPdP. Thanks for starting this thread, some good info here! Maybe I'll see you along the way -
Buen Camino!

 

[Sue Blue Mountains]

And of the waether is nice, dipping your feet in the river that runs under the puente de la rabia and napping on the lawn next to it makes for a pleasant afternoon.

Sounds lovely. sigh

 

[peregrina2000]

Another thumbs up for tapas bars in Logrono. It was our funnest extra day on the trip. We were there in September for the last day of some sort of festival of grapes......met by a marching band every time we stepped outside!! Very nice.

Don't mean to derail the thread, but in Logrono I tried a tapas trick that has served me very well. We knew about the tiny shrimp tapas and went to the bar there. After a tapa or two, we said to one of the waiters -- we're visitors, we love your tapas, but we want to try something else since we're only here for a night. Recommend a place where we would get another great tapa from Logrono. And invariably, the waiters (whose pride of place was stronger than their spirit of capitalist competition) sent us to another place for a special tapa. In subsequent caminos I have used this approach, and it has never failed me. Spaniards may not be ruthless capitalists but they have a fierce love of their town/city and want to show it off to you.

 

[C3 to Camino]

Ok, I'm going to have to plan on three months to do the SJPP to SJC to Finisterre to Muixia. I'm interested in just about everything people are pointing out! And I just learned that a friend who lives in SJC wants to do the Camino with us if he can.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@peregrina2000 , saw in Logrono a menu with duck tapas! Oh my!

 

[Milliemid]

Gosh what a fab choice you've been given-hope you've got lots of time!!
One highlight for me would be fab tapas/wine in the cafe in the square in front of the church at Navarette.
Buen camino!

 

[Caminofácil]

Finally found the time to write a bit about this...

If you want to see something a bit offbeat, in Belorado (Burgos) you'll find a broadcasting museum with a collection of radios from all around the world: military ones, radios used in merchant shipping and aviation... There's also all sorts of related equipment, like a soviet space suit from the early 60s, or a donated M-60 american tank.

The museum also hosts a detailed reconstruction of a british trench from World War I, which I'm told is the biggest such in Europe.

We wrote about it in our blog:

http://blog.caminofacil.net/en/2015/10/13/inocencio-bocanegra-radio-broadcasting-museum/

And here you have some pictures at Belorado's official page:

http://www.belorado.es/node/329

Unfortunately, the museum is usually closed, and you need to make a previous appointment at the tourism office to visit it.

 

[Caminofácil]

The Camino Frances is a treasure trove of art and history - you could spend months if you chose to. Most is ignored and unexplored by walkers who are fixed on accommodation, food, doing the washing, social interactions with other pilgrims and getting to Santiago. Which is fine, but people do not know what they are missing when, for example, they just walk through Burgos, give the Cathedral a cursory glance, and out the other side. The Road to Santiago, A Complete Cultural Handbook (Gitlitz and Davidson) can be dowloaded on a Kindle App and is an invaluable guide to "unmissable" sites along the way. I'm a great fan of those hired audio guides too - worth getting whenever they are offered.

This is an excellent point. I know from personal experience that places have much more resonance if I already know a bit first about their history when I visit them: otherwise it's just "oh, nice church, okay".

I'm not saying that people should become medieval scholars before walking the Camino, but reading a bit about spanish history, or about the history of medieval art (romanesque vs. gothic architecture, etc.) wouldn't be a bad idea either. I haven't read the book mentioned above, but everybody in this forum speaks wonders about it, so it might be an useful resource.

Sorry if this sounds a bit like "you have to do homework before walking the Camino!!" ; that's not my meaning. But it's true that you'll get a lot out more out of the places you visit if you know a bit about them beforehand.