St James Way: Reading to Southampton

[ficklefancyfree]

So I decided to get a head start on yet another Camino that has a UK element and am walking the St James Way from Reading to Southampton over the next 5 days.

Day one, firstly, stunning weather. Having checked Google Maps to find out when St James Church was open, I planned my arrival from London to ensure I had time to have a dirty McDonald’s breakfast (guilty pleasure) and pick up a walking pole from Decathlon beforehand.

I arrived at the church at around 10:30 only for it to look like I was trying to break in as I went round and tried, unsuccessfully, to open any of the doors. I then phoned only to find out that the church didn’t open until midday but the lady was kind enough to ask me over to the office next door to get my starting stamp, phew!

I spotted the first marker and off I went. The signposting was spot on, up to a point, more on that later. The start of the walk is along the Kennet canal for a good 7 miles or so, lovely walk, impossible to get lost, just beware of geese and their young. Geese hiss! Who knew.

Second stamp at the Cunningman Pub very conveniently located on the canal, I love it when that happens. Once sufficiently watered, onwards to St Mary’s Church at around mile marker 9. The guidebook says call so I phoned to see if anyone was around to stamp my passport. Ros was not available at such short notice, not a problem I said just wanted to see on the off chance. However she was adamant that I get a stamp as this is the true first pilgrim stamp from Reading, not the pubs! So she arranged lovely Jenny to meet me at the church to give me some new ink and send me on my merry way. At this time I bumped into 4 gentlemen who were also walking the way, however it may have turned into a more of a Camino (Pub) Crawl!

From here we went our separate ways and I mean separate, they carried on straight whereas I turned right following the map..perhaps they needed another tipple(!) or perhaps they were taking a more direct route to the train station as they were heading back to Reading. Who knows, my map told me to turn right so I turned right, from here on, no more markers. It was fine though, the map was super clear and I just had to keep checking it every so often.

It was a fair bit of road walking now and some roads had a bit of traffic that didn’t care for me. Case in point, I looked right, I looked left, I looked right, started to cross only to see a van hurtle round the corner from the left as I bolted across as quick as I could. From that point I consulted good old maps and I saw a possible shortcut and low and behold there was a public path. Holding the phone out in front of me like some kind of magic divining tool, I found my way out the other side and decided to continue the next stretch through the woods also. I’m overnighting in an AirBnb and this way much quicker than walking the roads, the woods almost come up to behind the house.

The first section of the woods was great on paths that were actual paths and easy peasy, when I had about 200m or so to go I came to a mud track that was so horrifying, I couldn’t bring myself to do it. Not just because I have brand spanking new shoes but because I was going to turn up to someone home, I back tracked and then for some reason lost my ability to read the map! Luckily for me a man, his son and their dog were just there and having checked that he knew these woods, I asked him for the easiest path to Windmill Road. Windmill Road? It’s off the other way! You’re not a natural navigator are you?! Well, I made it this far from Reading so I can’t be that terrible! Any way he pointed me off the other direction, go over the dip, not the first left that has the no entry sign but the second one, that will take you back to civilisation. I thanked him and off I went, here it all went terribly wrong and terribly funny. I couldn’t see a no entry sign and there were several ‘paths’ off to my left so I took each of them to see if it was the one. I basically spent about 30 minutes doing circles in about an area of less than 20 square metres!! At one point I honestly thought I was going to have to phone in a rescue which was bonkers because I could see the houses but every path lead to someone’s back garden. I was imagining standing at someone fence shouting for help… After that I gave myself a good talking to and went back up to the dip and then proceeded to systematically try each left in turn, when it was the wrong one I backtracked to the main path carried on a little further until the next left to test that one. Happily this method worked, Eureka! In less than 10 minutes I made my way to a car park of a cul de sac. Recuse averted!

Back to the land of pavements and road names, I was safe. I bought some tortellini and a celebratory Coke from the very conveniently located Co-op and made my way to home for the night.

It was a great day, it took me about 7 hours in total with about 5 hours of actual walking time, I have no idea what I did for the other 2 hours, map reading maybe?!! Maybe that guy was right after all!

Goodnight, sorry for the long post, I guess I just had to let it out!
Fi

 

[Walktheway]

So I decided to get a head start on yet another Camino that has a UK element and am walking the St James Way from Reading to Southampton over the next 5 days.

Day one, firstly, stunning weather. Having checked Google Maps to find out when St James Church was open, I planned my arrival from London to ensure I had time to have a dirty McDonald’s breakfast (guilty pleasure) and pick up a walking pole from Decathlon beforehand.

I arrived at the church at around 10:30 only for it to look like I was trying to break in as I went round and tried, unsuccessfully, to open any of the doors. I then phoned only to find out that the church didn’t open until midday but the lady was kind enough to ask me over to the office next door to get my starting stamp, phew!

I spotted the first marker and off I went. The signposting was spot on, up to a point, more on that later. The start of the walk is along the Kennet canal for a good 7 miles or so, lovely walk, impossible to get lost, just beware of geese and their young. Geese hiss! Who knew.

Second stamp at the Cunningman Pub very conveniently located on the canal, I love it when that happens. Once sufficiently watered, onwards to St Mary’s Church at around mile marker 9. The guidebook says call so I phoned to see if anyone was around to stamp my passport. Ros was not available at such short notice, not a problem I said just wanted to see on the off chance. However she was adamant that I get a stamp as this is the true first pilgrim stamp from Reading, not the pubs! So she arranged lovely Jenny to meet me at the church to give me some new ink and send me on my merry way. At this time I bumped into 4 gentlemen who were also walking the way, however it may have turned into a more of a Camino (Pub) Crawl!

From here we went our separate ways and I mean separate, they carried on straight whereas I turned right following the map..perhaps they needed another tipple(!) or perhaps they were taking a more direct route to the train station as they were heading back to Reading. Who knows, my map told me to turn right so I turned right, from here on, no more markers. It was fine though, the map was super clear and I just had to keep checking it every so often.

It was a fair bit of road walking now and some roads had a bit of traffic that didn’t care for me. Case in point, I looked right, I looked left, I looked right, started to cross only to see a van hurtle round the corner from the left as I bolted across as quick as I could. From that point I consulted good old maps and I saw a possible shortcut and low and behold there was a public path. Holding the phone out in front of me like some kind of magic divining tool, I found my way out the other side and decided to continue the next stretch through the woods also. I’m overnighting in an AirBnb and this way much quicker than walking the roads, the woods almost come up to behind the house.

The first section of the woods was great on paths that were actual paths and easy peasy, when I had about 200m or so to go I came to a mud track that was so horrifying, I couldn’t bring myself to do it. Not just because I have brand spanking new shoes but because I was going to turn up to someone home, I back tracked and then for some reason lost my ability to read the map! Luckily for me a man, his son and their dog were just there and having checked that he knew these woods, I asked him for the easiest path to Windmill Road. Windmill Road? It’s off the other way! You’re not a natural navigator are you?! Well, I made it this far from Reading so I can’t be that terrible! Any way he pointed me off the other direction, go over the dip, not the first left that has the no entry sign but the second one, that will take you back to civilisation. I thanked him and off I went, here it all went terribly wrong and terribly funny. I couldn’t see a no entry sign and there were several ‘paths’ off to my left so I took each of them to see if it was the one. I basically spent about 30 minutes doing circles in about an area of less than 20 square metres!! At one point I honestly thought I was going to have to phone in a rescue which was bonkers because I could see the houses but every path lead to someone’s back garden. I was imagining standing at someone fence shouting for help… After that I gave myself a good talking to and went back up to the dip and then proceeded to systematically try each left in turn, when it was the wrong one I backtracked to the main path carried on a little further until the next left to test that one. Happily this method worked, Eureka! In less than 10 minutes I made my way to a car park of a cul de sac. Recuse averted!

Back to the land of pavements and road names, I was safe. I bought some tortellini and a celebratory Coke from the very conveniently located Co-op and made my way to home for the night.

It was a great day, it took me about 7 hours in total with about 5 hours of actual walking time, I have no idea what I did for the other 2 hours, map reading maybe?!! Maybe that guy was right after all!

Goodnight, sorry for the long post, I guess I just had to let it out!
Fi

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Glad you had an enjoyable day on the Camino. Thanks for the long post, I'm planning to walk this Camino in 'weekend stages' during this summer, so it's good to hear about what the Camino is like. Looking forward to reading about your next day on the Camino and whether you're planning to go to walk some the Camino Ingles in Spain.

 

[Vacajoe]

My credential for that route looks more like a pub advertising map than a Camino log, but they have the stamps! Enjoy the rest of the way.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

From here we went our separate ways and I mean separate, they carried on straight whereas I turned right following the map

So I read a post on here last night that said the GPX file from the British Pilgrimage Trust, which I am using, does not have the route as suggested by the Confraternity of St James. Reading the directions and staring at a map last night, the 4 gentlemen were actually on the route whereas it was me that deviated! That explains why my markers disappeared and the section I was on was very heavy with traffic. I’m going to try and plot the correct route and pass it onto the BPT after first checking with CSJ I got it right.

 

[Vacajoe]

Definitely follow the waymarks recently installed by CSJ

 

[The Cumbrian]

I've noticed some hand-painted yellow arrows which were not there when I walked it last year, so hopefully the way will be easier to follow with fewer gaps between markers. Buen Camino.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Day 2: Wowsers, what can I say, the scenery is breathtaking. Fields of yellow, fields of green shimmering in the gentle breeze. A section of 2 halves, Beauty and the Beast.

Leaving Mortimer I stopped at the cafe and had a coffee and used the facilities one last time before I hit the road. It was most likely around 8:30. I had around the same distance again of around 12 miles to get to Worting.

Bit chilly to start but after an hour the sun was out and it was less layers and sun hat time. I found the markers again, and they were plentiful and spot on but today I decided to try my luck with just the guide and I have to say, the instructions were superb. No esoteric references like walk for a while, or for a bit, hard facts like red post box and names of houses.

Everything was great, the first bit was ever so gently downhill on a flat study surface, then I saw it. A bridle path under shade that made me quiver in my boots. There was no other option, I stood there as I let the horror seep in, gently prodding with my shoe to see if it was as awful as it looked or if it might actually have been solid. Very much not solid. After what seemed an age and was most likely around 5-10 minutes I just said to myself, do it, and so I gritted my teeth and with a steely determination walked gingerly then a bit more assertively, through the muck. I was so happy that I had boots and not shoes because the Bridle Path Beast would have swallowed that shoe in seconds. Then me too probably.

After that came a stream where I tried to rinse off as much as I could, I have a bum right knee so I could only do one shoe and carried on. Less that 10 minutes later I reached another swamp but I knew what I was doing and let’s face it, I’m no longer precious about these shoes and so I just got on with it.

I kept sending pictures back to my husband who was supportive but I could totally hear him saying, well you chose to do this!

Not long after that I emerged in a sea of green grass so perfect it took my breath away. I’m not versed enough to say what it was, a meadow, a field or what. It was just stunning. I was smug, I beat the Beast and I was in the nature that my mind knows to be ‘nature’. I sent that picture back to my husband too, just to say, see, this is what you are missing.

After my trauma of the Beast I realised I was going to wet my breeches but where to go? I looked around, no people, no houses. I trundled off left about 15-20 metres did a tinkle, still no people, no houses. Pulled up and walked back to the path only to find someone walking towards me…um whoops. I have no idea if I was caught pants down or if I had completed in the nick of time. I just walked past with a sheepish look on my face, he could have hardly cared. I messaged that back to hubby as well, he found that hilarious.

Then came the fields of yellow, I was struck and there was a tree on the side of the path that had an inviting stump to perch on. So I perched, drank some water and drank in the views. I saw something dark in the field and as a female, automatically was on guard trying to see what it was, a person hiding? A scarecrow? It moved and I thought a crow? The crow hopped and I realised it was deer! I clumsily got my phone a took and awful jerky video, sent that back to hubby who described them as giant bouncing bunnies, a perfect description. Off I trundled trying to spot more deer but it was not to be. Ahead there was another Beast, I’m over it now and just got on. I walked round the perimeter of a forest that just had bluebells beginning to emerge, it’s going to spectacular when they bloom, and arrived at Church of St James, Bramley. This was around 4 miles in. This church wins the best stamp award, an insane whooper of of a stamp. So big it didn’t even fit the ink pad. I did my best, then I found the smaller stamp hidden beneath the visitor book! 2 for the price of 1, who doesn’t love that?!

Shortly after I came across yet another obstacle, this time someone decided to put a swimming pool right in front of the entrance to the footpath. I scanned left and right, there was no other possible alternative. Road workers had put out a flood warning road sign so I knew it was bad. No time to investigate because this road had lorries going up and down. After realising that again I had no other choice but to go, I made my move, first step ok, second step and I was submerged, damn pothole!! I must have looked comedic and my change of pace. The water went over my boot but luckily only a little bit of sock around the ankle was wet. I was not squelching, small mercies. Say what you want, but today was glad I had boots and that they are goretex.

I carried on my merry way and somewhere about half a mile before Pamber End bumped into a man carrying the guidebook! Pilgrim! Martin was stuffing a sandwich in his face but pionted behind him saying that way. I was confused, the path deviates here either around a field or carry on to the main road. I backtracked a little to see if the path to the road was walkable, ie no more beasts. Martin thought I was walking in reverse, we looked at the map and realised that the path around the field was shorter and safer, sold! I’m not a puritan.

We walked together for the next 5 miles or so to Worting where I would be staying and where Martin would be catching a bus to Basingstoke for a train back to Reading where he lived. I must say, my confidence increased having another soul to journey with, I barely looked at the guide or map anymore, we followed the marker and where we needed another marker, one would magically appear. It felt like Portugal all over again where I quickly just put my phone away and trusted the process.

Too soon but also agonisingly long, we arrived at the road where Martin was going to grab his bus. As we walked past a church, a man who had just gotten into his car, drove up beside us and asked if we were pilgrims, why yes we were. He asked if we wanted a stamp, Martin was just walking the walk and did not have a passport, I wasn’t about to drag this man who was about to head home for a stamp, but he insisted so I parted ways with Martin and proceeded into the church.

Stamp in hand, I wasn’t far from my accommodation but I needed to buy food because once I made it indoors I wasn’t going to leave. There was farm shop 9 minutes away from me in the opposite direction. From the farm shop it was 11 minutes to the Airbnb. Well, for me it was more like 15 minutes to the farm shop and 20 minutes. I was beginning to fade, it was close to 3 and I have barely taken any water, less than 1/2 a litre and no food, even though there is a sandwich in my pack.

After purchasing supplies I asked in the conveniently located gym next door if I could use their facilities, of course they replied, everyone is just SO nice! Although I was not far from being done, I was getting really cold and walking so slowly I wanted to make sure I could make the journey without doing that rushed need-the-toilet-waddle which I probably could not do in my state. And I also wanted to put on a few more layers as I was feeling pretty beat down and cold.

I was settled in by 3:30, got my food now at 5:30. I think I will be having a very early night because if today was tough, tomorrow is going to be worse. 16 miles to New Arlesford.

Yet another long post, feel free to tell me to shut up if I’m yapping too much! And really sorry for the crap pictures! Less about good pictures, more about storytelling!
Goodnight all
Fi

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Glad you had an enjoyable day on the Camino. Thanks for the long post, I'm planning to walk this Camino in 'weekend stages' during this summer, so it's good to hear about what the Camino is like. Looking forward to reading about your next day on the Camino and whether you're planning to go to walk some the Camino Ingles in Spain.

Yes I will be following this with the Ingles from Coruña, when finances permit. That will then leave the Ingles from Ferrol as a full route if I was ever to do that one too.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

I've noticed some hand-painted yellow arrows which were not there when I walked it last year, so hopefully the way will be easier to follow with fewer gaps between markers. Buen Camino.

Ditto! I saw 2 I think on day one. None today I don’t think

 

[gaelnicholson]

Day 2: Wowsers, what can I say, the scenery is breathtaking. Fields of yellow, fields of green shimmering in the gentle breeze. A section of 2 halves, Beauty and the Beast.

Leaving Mortimer I stopped at the cafe and had a coffee and used the facilities one last time before I hit the road. It was most likely around 8:30. I had around the same distance again of around 12 miles to get to Worting.

Bit chilly to start but after an hour the sun was out and it was less layers and sun hat time. I found the markers again, and they were plentiful and spot on but today I decided to try my luck with just the guide and I have to say, the instructions were superb. No esoteric references like walk for a while, or for a bit, hard facts like red post box and names of houses.

Everything was great, the first bit was ever so gently downhill on a flat study surface, then I saw it. A bridle path under shade that made me quiver in my boots. There was no other option, I stood there as I let the horror seep in, gently prodding with my shoe to see if it was as awful as it looked or if it might actually have been solid. Very much not solid. After what seemed an age and was most likely around 5-10 minutes I just said to myself, do it, and so I gritted my teeth and with a steely determination walked gingerly then a bit more assertively, through the muck. I was so happy that I had boots and not shoes because the Bridle Path Beast would have swallowed that shoe in seconds. Then me too probably.

After that came a stream where I tried to rinse off as much as I could, I have a bum right knee so I could only do one shoe and carried on. Less that 10 minutes later I reached another swamp but I knew what I was doing and let’s face it, I’m no longer precious about these shoes and so I just got on with it.

I kept sending pictures back to my husband who was supportive but I could totally hear him saying, well you chose to do this!

Not long after that I emerged in a sea of green grass so perfect it took my breath away. I’m not versed enough to say what it was, a meadow, a field or what. It was just stunning. I was smug, I beat the Beast and I was in the nature that my mind knows to be ‘nature’. I sent that picture back to my husband too, just to say, see, this is what you are missing.

After my trauma of the Beast I realised I was going to wet my breeches but where to go? I looked around, no people, no houses. I trundled off left about 15-20 metres did a tinkle, still no people, no houses. Pulled up and walked back to the path only to find someone walking towards me…um whoops. I have no idea if I was caught pants down or if I had completed in the nick of time. I just walked past with a sheepish look on my face, he could have hardly cared. I messaged that back to hubby as well, he found that hilarious.

Then came the fields of yellow, I was struck and there was a tree on the side of the path that had an inviting stump to perch on. So I perched, drank some water and drank in the views. I saw something dark in the field and as a female, automatically was on guard trying to see what it was, a person hiding? A scarecrow? It moved and I thought a crow? The crow hopped and I realised it was deer! I clumsily got my phone a took and awful jerky video, sent that back to hubby who described them as giant bouncing bunnies, a perfect description. Off I trundled trying to spot more deer but it was not to be. Ahead there was another Beast, I’m over it now and just got on. I walked round the perimeter of a forest that just had bluebells beginning to emerge, it’s going to spectacular when they bloom, and arrived at Church of St James, Bramley. This was around 4 miles in. This church wins the best stamp award, an insane whooper of of a stamp. So big it didn’t even fit the ink pad. I did my best, then I found the smaller stamp hidden beneath the visitor book! 2 for the price of 1, who doesn’t love that?!

Shortly after I came across yet another obstacle, this time someone decided to put a swimming pool right in front of the entrance to the footpath. I scanned left and right, there was no other possible alternative. Road workers had put out a flood warning road sign so I knew it was bad. No time to investigate because this road had lorries going up and down. After realising that again I had no other choice but to go, I made my move, first step ok, second step and I was submerged, damn pothole!! I must have looked comedic and my change of pace. The water went over my boot but luckily only a little bit of sock around the ankle was wet. I was not squelching, small mercies. Say what you want, but today was glad I had boots and that they are goretex.

I carried on my merry way and somewhere about half a mile before Pamber End bumped into a man carrying the guidebook! Pilgrim! Martin was stuffing a sandwich in his face but pionted behind him saying that way. I was confused, the path deviates here either around a field or carry on to the main road. I backtracked a little to see if the path to the road was walkable, ie no more beasts. Martin thought I was walking in reverse, we looked at the map and realised that the path around the field was shorter and safer, sold! I’m not a puritan.

We walked together for the next 5 miles or so to Worting where I would be staying and where Martin would be catching a bus to Basingstoke for a train back to Reading where he lived. I must say, my confidence increased having another soul to journey with, I barely looked at the guide or map anymore, we followed the marker and where we needed another marker, one would magically appear. It felt like Portugal all over again where I quickly just put my phone away and trusted the process.

Too soon but also agonisingly long, we arrived at the road where Martin was going to grab his bus. As we walked past a church, a man who had just gotten into his car, drove up beside us and asked if we were pilgrims, why yes we were. He asked if we wanted a stamp, Martin was just walking the walk and did not have a passport, I wasn’t about to drag this man who was about to head home for a stamp, but he insisted so I parted ways with Martin and proceeded into the church.

Stamp in hand, I wasn’t far from my accommodation but I needed to buy food because once I made it indoors I wasn’t going to leave. There was farm shop 9 minutes away from me in the opposite direction. From the farm shop it was 11 minutes to the Airbnb. Well, for me it was more like 15 minutes to the farm shop and 20 minutes. I was beginning to fade, it was close to 3 and I have barely taken any water, less than 1/2 a litre and no food, even though there is a sandwich in my pack.

After purchasing supplies I asked in the conveniently located gym next door if I could use their facilities, of course they replied, everyone is just SO nice! Although I was not far from being done, I was getting really cold and walking so slowly I wanted to make sure I could make the journey without doing that rushed need-the-toilet-waddle which I probably could not do in my state. And I also wanted to put on a few more layers as I was feeling pretty beat down and cold.

I was settled in by 3:30, got my food now at 5:30. I think I will be having a very early night because if today was tough, tomorrow is going to be worse. 16 miles to New Arlesford.

Yet another long post, feel free to tell me to shut up if I’m yapping too much! And really sorry for the crap pictures! Less about good pictures, more about storytelling!
Goodnight all
Fi




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Thanks for your great storytelling, details make it more interesting. I've just returned to the UK after walking the Portuguese coastal camino and Espiritual Variant and am keen to walk several more pilgrimages so this route interests me. Best wishes for a great day tomorrow.

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Fi -
Thanks so much for sharing your St James Way camino with us all here on the Forum. It sounds as though you’re having a fantastic time - Go Girl !!! The way you’re meeting the challenges of the path is inspiring and so entertaining! Terrific photos too.
Looking forward to reading more of your posts and Buen Camino!
Cheers from Oz -
Jenny

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Day 3: longest day so far 16 miles from Worting to New Arlesford.

Another wonderful day on the Camino. But let’s start with last night. I was broken and had a pounding headache. I took 3 ibuprofen and crawled into bed at 6:30. I was a rock, just couldn’t move, every part of me was so tired, except for my mind. It was hopping all over the place.

I was trying to will sleep to come to me but instead I realised that I was cold at my core, like I had an ice block in my chest. I wasn’t shivering but it seemed like my insides were. I guess I had caught a chill because the clammy cold sweats came. Sleep alluded me and by 9:30 I had to get up to use the loo. After that I realised that my headache was gone and the ice block had eased a bit. I still wasn’t sleepy though. I picked up my phone watched a little Netflix, 11pm, still wide awake. I tried to meditate, that took me to about midnight. I went for a smoke, read some of my book, went for another smoke. Soon it was 2am, now I was thinking I might have to make alternative plans because how could I do the toughest day on so little sleep?

I worked out that Spotify has a sleep function and put on some gentle music and I was out before the music stopped.

My alarm went off at 4am (meditation), I changed it to 5. It went off again and I changed it to 6. My alarm at 7 finally woke me up. Surprisingly, I felt well rested. I got myself ready and left at around 8:30.

Leaving Worting was not special, I passed a lot of construction sites, however one section went through a small patch of woods with old trees with twisted roots and that was really nice.

The walking was easier for me today, mostly on paved surfaces and fairly flat. I was making good time and my feet and legs felt good. I’ve been fortunate with the weather so far, another relatively sunny day interspersed with fairly strong breezes. My decathlon pole whistled for me today, I remembered to use it today after forgetting about it all of yesterday. Walking poles are a new thing for me.

Pretty soon I got to Dummer (4.5 miles) and went to the church there just to stop and have a smoke.


As I went through the gate, someone was coming out of the church. Immediately I thought it was the vicar or priest or insert some other name for a religious authority, and I felt like I was trespassing. I’m just stopping to take a look, I called out. Enters Anne, the first female pilgrim I met this trip! We had a little chat, discovered that we were both staying in the same hotel this evening and after ascertaining that Anne walks as fast as I normally drive a car, said we would meet up later tonight. I gave Anne a 10 minute head start and yup, didn’t even see her dust trail. She was gone, probably walked another 3 miles already!

More gentle easy walking got me to Preston Candover (8miles), I was already halfway and it had just gone past midday. I don’t usually stop in pubs or for lunch. Truthfully I worry that the walking will hit me and I have to force myself to walk at a faster pace to make it to my destination before it’s dark. I’d rather have more time so I can walk at a manageable pace for me. Today, I decided to stop for a break. I didn’t have to find a room, I didn’t need to wash my socks and I didn’t need to cook. I reckoned I had enough daylight to walk the next 8 miles. Just before reaching the pub I popped into a small disused church dating back to 1190, I saw a visitors book and went to sign it.

How perfect was this card? There is a Camino marker on the back. I really wanted to keep it but decided that I should leave it for the next weary pilgrim.

Opposite the pub was another church


I got back on the road about 30 minutes later, it was not yet 1pm. I very soon got to Upper Wield, I did originally intend to stay here but that would have meant 2 days of tough walking back to back. I decided to split the tough days so that I could have some respite if needed. I almost missed the church as the sign was very faded. I took another little break here.

This village is beautiful, quintessential thatched cottages, one in particular caught my eye. It had a large gate though so I couldn’t get a picture, this one is from earlier, in Dummer I think.


The next section is 4 miles on the Oxdrove Way. I like to think of it as my mini meseta, having not done the Frances, I have no idea if it compares but it is a long straight stretch of unpaved, sometimes muddy, road. I decided to treat myself to some Hans Zimmer, Ólafur Arnalds and Max Richter. My playlist was an hour long, I wanted to see how many miles I could do in that time. It was around 3 so that compares with a timed mile I did yesterday. Finally I know my walking speed.

Lots of animals today, cows, horses, some hares (they are huge) and a first for me, alpacas!


It was around 4 when I got to St Mary’s the Virgin Parish Church in Old Alresford. I only had another mile to go so I took a proper breather, read smoke, and watched the traffic and dog walkers for a while.


That last mile was tough! My steps were much shorter now, I was using my stick for support rather than to propel me forward. I wanted to get to the chemist before they closed and that was at 6:30 so I really didn’t have to rush.

When I got to the chemist I bumped into Anne who had gotten in hours before. I asked if she wanted company this evening and a rough plan was hatched. I went to check in at the Swan Hotel and Anne was back after perusing all the food choices and said it was all much of a muchness. The Swan had a Wednesday ‘battered’ special, battered fish, battered sausage or battered chicken. They also had a grilled fish option so we booked a table for 5:30, I had 45 minutes to clean up.


This is what it is all about. The room was more luxurious than I am used too and that bathtub! Can you spot my purchase from the chemist? I dumped the entire packet into the tub.

I could have stayed in that bath for hours but I had a date and went for dinner. It was a real Camino moment. I expected a quick meal and to go to bed an hour later. We were still there 3 hours in, a truly wonderful night. We are both ending in Winchester tomorrow so swapped numbers to catch up again.

Pretty much a prefect day.
Goodnight
Fi

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Thanks for your great storytelling, details make it more interesting. I've just returned to the UK after walking the Portuguese coastal camino and Espiritual Variant and am keen to walk several more pilgrimages so this route interests me. Best wishes for a great day tomorrow.

I am really loving this route, other than the Bridle Path Beast! Leather boots my friend, leather boots…

 

[SongKhonGair]

Thank you ficklefancyfree, that was a good read. I look forward to reading subsequent-day reports!

My wife and I are planning to do a Camino in autumn 2024 after spending the summer in the UK. (We are Australian and have all those Schengen Zone bothers.) This will be our first visit outside London, and "along the Kennet canal for a good 7 miles or so" sounds wonderful, as well as that much relatively flat ground seeming like a very good way to begin a very long walk. You have me re-evaluating my plans.

I was going to ask many unrelated questions about options beyond Southampton. So many that I think I should start my own thread. But thank you for the inspiration.

 

[kathanne]

I am enjoying your account of the St James' Way, FickleFancyFree Buen Camino.
Next month, I will be walking it, along with my husband. Then in June we will walk the Camino Ingles from A'Coruna.
Hope that you are enjoying the rest of the way. Looking forward to more posts.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

I am enjoying your account of the St James' Way, FickleFancyFree Buen Camino.
Next month, I will be walking it, along with my husband. Then in June we will walk the Camino Ingles from A'Coruna.
Hope that you are enjoying the rest of the way. Looking forward to more posts.

You will both have such a fantastic time! Hopefully the Bridle Path Beasts would have dried out by then

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Day 4: New Arlesford to Winchester (11 miles)

This pilgrimage is coming to an end far too soon. In many ways it has far surpassed my experience of Porto to Santiago last year.

I suffered yet another fretful night last night, the 3 pints of full fat Coke might have had a helping hand in that. Anne went for ale so she told me at breakfast that she slept as sound as a baby! I bumped into Anne breakfast, she was about done and headed off before mine arrived


Nothing like a fry up to start your day right

I decided I was going to have a leisurely day, I was feeling good, no aches and my feet seems to have not suffered after my long day yesterday. The Epsom salts must have done their thing. I decided to wait until St John the Baptist Church next door opened at 10


I was on my way a little after 10am. I passed a Post Office on the way out and so sorted out my car tax. Hark at me, on pilgrimage and still able to run my errands . It was another glorious day of sunshine, in fact the best yet.

The walk out was urban and residential but it didn’t last for long, pretty soon you get thumped with this beauty


What a stunner! Not long after this I spotted a backpack bobbing up and down a little way ahead, weaving in and out of view. Pilgrim! I resolved not to run up and introduce myself and instead let fate decide. Well, fate was on my side because as I rounded a corner, said pilgrim was de-backpacked on the side of the road. I sidled up and made my move.

Let me introduce Tim, a retiree from Canterbury. Turns out Tim is not a pilgrim, but is stringing together his own camino from various walks. Today he was mostly walking the Itchen Way, he will eventually end up in Salisbury.


As our respective a walks coincided, we ended up walking together. Tim is a Birder, not a Twitcher. A very important distinction apparently. Twitchers travel far and wide to satiate their addiction whereas Birders will only partake when it is available. Things you learn.

Tim was an enthusiast in just about everything, a font of knowledge. He pointed out birds and fish and trees that I would have otherwise missed. He explained the significance and rarity of chalk streams and how most of them were found in England. Honestly, fascinating.

The walk so far had been stunning, such beautiful views, more so than my trip last year. I felt immersed in nature, I’ve almost forgiven all the muddy bridle paths I had to wade through to get here! Every once and a while you happen across some magnificent trees


We soon arrived at Itchen Abbas to another church called St John the Baptist.


Fun fact, the last man to be hanged in England for horse thievery is buried here under an ancient yew tree. I guess not fun but you can file it away for any upcoming trivia nights!

I got my stamp and we went around the corner for a spot of lunch at The Plough.

When we were ready to leave, I had a look at the time and saw that it was coming up to 2. 2pm and I had only walked 5.5 miles. I still had that much to go. The little fear fairy raised her head but I pushed her down. I wanted a chill day and I’m getting exactly that. Don’t fret my little pet!

We had about another 2 miles of each others company. In that time, Tim asked me a question.

T: Have you ever heard of the term jizz? Jay Eye Zed Zed.
F: Uh sure. [Thinking you have got to be kidding me]
T: What do you think it is?
F: Um, well, it‘s ejaculation right? I mean after, sperm, you know ejaculate. [Now thinking where the actual f. this is going and do I need to beat this retiree with my walking pole]
T: Really? Well I never! I’ve never heard that before.
F: Well what do you think it means.
T: Well you keep asking how I know what birds they are and it’s because of the activity and behaviour of the bird, so you would say that bird there has the jizz of a red kite, for example.
F: Oh really! [ Thank f. for that] That’s hilarious, guess it’s a generation thing maybe? [I knew you weren’t a perv Tim!]

Pretty soon we said our goodbyes atop a bridge in Abbots Worthy. Hugged (perfectly respectable) and I wished him well and good fortune in his hunt for a kingfisher.

It was 3:30, I began to hightail it to Winchester.

I got to St Marys Church in Kings Worthy, ran inside and went to get my stamp. I inked the stamp well and gave it a firm press into my passport, and lifted the stamp for the great reveal. It was a dull blob, WTF? Oh, I didn’t open the ink pad, you doofus! I tried again, this time flipping the lid off the ink pad first, lined up the now freshly inked stamp over the blob I previously made and removed, now I had a blurry but just about readable mark. I only have one page left and I want to leave enough space for the Spanish part of the Camino without attaching a piece of paper, yes I’m particular, I know.

I was almost out the door when I noticed there was a door ajar inside the church, hmmmm, I wonder if there is a toilet. I poked my head through, opened another set of doors and called out. No answer, I moved in further and there it was, I quickly went in did my business and left by a different door. On the way out I was swarmed by a bunch of kids trying to get in. Some kind of activity group I guess.

I proceeded to walk quickly on my way, trying to read the guide as I went. Something was wrong, something didn’t sound right.. my walking pole! I had left it propped against the sink in the bathroom back at the church. Double doofus! I wasn’t hearing my clack-drag-clacking of my pole.

I had walked about 10 minutes, do I go back, should I chalk it up as a loss, it was only £6, oh go back, it’s useful and I might need it tomorrow as it’s another long day. So I spun around and went back to retrieve it.

By the time I got back to where I was it was gone 4, with about another 2.5 miles to go I really flew. I think I did my quickest kilometre, my watch told me 11m26s - woo-wee - we are flying! I abandoned the official route and used Google maps to point me towards the cathedral by the most expedient route, no more time to sight see now, I wanted to get a stamp at Winchester Cathedral this evening (closes at 5) as I expect to be leaving before it opens tomorrow.

Whilst hurtling along I messaged Anne to let her know of my imminent arrival to see what her plans were. Soon I could see the cathedral come into view, it was 4:45, I had to stop myself from running. I’m gonna make it, don’t panic, you’re gonna make it. There was a sign outside that announced a service was in session, balls! I fell through the automatic doors to an empty front desk. Double balls! I walked in and proceeded to walk about, I could hear organ playing so I was extra tip toey and felt extra guilty for trespassing in Gods house. I thought that I could sit at the back of the service and at the end ask someone if they would mind giving me a stamp as I would not be able to come back tomorrow. No-one was around, then I saw an office with people inside, I asked them if it was possible I could get a stamp, oh sure, come this way. I was taken into a back room where there were robes hung on the walls and felt blessed that I got to see a space not open to the public, I mentioned this to the man. Oh it’s just where the robes are stored that’s all. Oh, I’m in a closet, ok. I asked where the service was and was informed that it hasn’t begun yet but would start at 5:30 and lasts about 45 minutes. It was Evensong, all I knew was that Evensong had singing, I thought about staying for it. Be brave, don’t fret my little pet! I resolved to stay so asked if it was ok to look around whilst I waited, sure, do take a look around.

By this point Anne had messaged to say that pilgrims get in free and that I should come back tomorrow if I didn’t make it. I messaged her to say I’m was here and planning to stay for the service and if she knew what time she wanted dinner that evening.

I walked around as I waited for Anne to answer and it was truly magnificent. There was nary a soul in sight and I felt I had the place all to myself.


Anne was messaging, it was a little after 5 and I left the cathedral to have a smoke and to see what Anne was up to. I asked her to come join me for Evensong (safety in numbers) and then we could find dinner. She wasn’t sure as she isn’t religious either but said she would pop down and see.

Soon I heard my name being called, it was Anne, she had decided to join me. It was still early so we sat outside and recounted our day to each other until it was time to go inside.


The infamous Anne! As we went into the cathedral a lady pointed to where the service was being held, as we made our way Anne remarked that she had missed the crypts when she was here earlier and ducked her head around corners to see if she could see where it was. The same lady who pointed us towards the service asked if we were ok and Anne recounted her story, we still had a few minutes before the service so we were taken down, for a quick look, how lucky we were


Evensong was lovely, we were sat right behind the choir, what a wonderful way to end each day! I’ve never heard the word holy with so many syllables before! We went to find somewhere to eat and landed at the Eclipse Inn after a hearty recommendation from a patron.

We found a table upstairs, dinner was delightful. We got ourselves another round and just wittered away the night. As Anne was coming back upstairs with the drinks she made a remark about thinking she saw a cat in the corner. This room must be haunted she expressed. I thought to myself, surely you are not tipsy already, you’ve only had one.
I had still yet to check into my lodgings for the night and I had to make it before 9pm, I was around 7:30 at this point, Google maps told me I needed 30 mins to get to the Airbnb.

As the night whiled away, the proprietor of the Inn came up to check on us, then she proceeded to tell us the room was haunted. Anne went ballistic, I KNEW it!
We were then regaled with the tale of Lady Alice Lisle and the ‘hanging’ Judge Jeffreys. How this Inn was featured on a tv show. Anne and I happened to be sat at a table by the window Alice was pushed out of
Here is a link if you want to read more: https://www.the-eclipse-winchester....=Lady Alice Lisle&crumb=Home,Lady Alice Lisle

It was time for me to run off and find my room. I said goodnight to Anne and walked off into the night thinking of warm thoughts and of angels flying around me to ward off Alice, in case she had any intention of keeping me company!

Fi

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Day 5: Winchester to Southampton (15 miles)

Final day! I’m actually done and on the train bound for London. Feeling a little sad that it has ended but had yet another marvellous day so here it is.

Unfortunately it was another terrible nights sleep, by 3am I just told myself to quit scrolling and get some shut eye, it was going to be a tough days walk for me in terms of distance.

My lodgings for the night was basic and cold and not exactly pleasant but it did the job. Funny, if I had a private room when I was in Portugal this would have been luxury, but back in Blighty the room was shambolic. Anyway, it did it’s job and I was on the road a little after 9.

I happened to find a room about a mile and a half from Winchester Cathedral so I already had a bit of a head start for the day. Instead of walking directly back to the designated path, I detoured to a little further along the route, as I said before, I’m no puritan!

I was back on the marked path right by St Cross Church and Hospital, how serendipitous! I popped my head in to look around and to take some pictures. I went to the porters lodge which also served as a shop and ticket office and identified myself as a pilgrim and asked for a stamp. The lady very kindly obliged and we had a discussion of my journey so far. It was now around 9:30, I enquired about Matin, she said yes it was going to be at 10 and last about 20 minutes. I asked what it was, morning prayers, then I asked if I could attend and have a look around the grounds in the mean time. She smiled and waved me through.
View attachment AEBB22C3-F443-43CE-BDC8-01C34A6359E9.jpeg


How magnificent! Again, nary a soul in sight. I left my backpack at the back of the church in the corner and gingerly wandered around before taking my seat in one of the middle pews. The Brothers started to walk in and took their seats in the front. A priest went and sat in his pulpit. It was almost 10. A gentleman came in, walked to the priest who handed him a book of Psalms and a booklet with the order of service. My heart started thumping. I should go and get one of those, but I was rooted to my seat. He then announced that today we will be reading Psalm 105, and that we are to reading the first 16 verses together. Tick tock tick tock. If I don’t go I’m not going to know what is going on, if I do go I might annoy the priest. It was 10:58, I stood up, tiptoed to the priest and did a book gesture with my hands. He smiled and handed me what I needed. I returned to my seat looked for Psalm 105 and then the bell sounded. People stood, I stood. The priest started to speak, others responded. It was like a call and response, only I had no idea how to respond. People sat, I sat. I must have seemed lost because the man in the front pew, who turned out to a trustee of the church came over to me and pointed to the books of Psalms and said, we are here. I tried to follow, there were only 2 in the church outside of the Brothers and priest. I spoke quietly, fearing to be heard. Part of it was also fearing I’d be heard by God who would smite me for saying words I had no affinity for. The service jumped around a bit and at times I had difficulty following the order. However I think I did pretty well, a few months ago I would never have even thought to sit in let alone participate! Now I have sat in on prayers and evensong!

As the service ended the man in the front pew came up to me and asked if I was walking the St James Way, we had a little conversation about it and then he very kindly took the book and order of device from me to put them away. The priest was standing by the side of the pews to wave people off I suppose and I went the other direction towards the back to retrieve my backpack and my a quiet exit.

Outside, it had just began to drizzle, I stood outside the doorway to find my waterproof, then the priest came out, I was caught red handed. No I’m not a believer, sorry I invaded your space! The priest smiled at me, thanked me for joining in the service and asked me if I was a pilgrim. He then told me to go back to the porters lodge and ask for the dole, as he went on his way, he said God bless you, I said thank you. Somehow, that doesn’t sound right when you say it to a man of God. Can someone tell me what is the correct response?

Anyway, I went back to the porters lodge and had another lovely chat with the lady, I told her I was so lost in that service and she told me not to worry about it, they change it all the time, they just say what they like. Then I said I was told to come here and ask for the dole, so ask for it then! We had a good old giggle. I declined the beer seeing as I don’t drink anyway, the bread was symbolic enough. I took the offering and went on my merry way. What a completely magical experience. That’s not even the right word but I don’t have a word for it right now, for me it was indescribable. This was a big one for me, to not fear in the face of religion, I was so full of joy. I danced my way along the river with a beaming smile on my face and my heart full.

Even though the weather had take a turn for the worse, it was still a beautiful walk. A little muddy at times but just about manageable. The path is narrow, at times only single file, some of the way has been concreted which is a little treacherous when wet as it has eroded into a slope in some places.


After midday I was about 4 miles in, I was getting hangry and I was cold from the rain. I consulted the map and saw that I was coming up to Allbrook shortly but that conveniences were at the next stop, Eastleigh. I could keep on the river path or I could divert off at Allbrook and take the road which is straighter and might save me some time and distance. Also it would make for smoother, easier walking. As I neared Allbrook I decided to go off piste.

This bit was miserable, the roar of the traffic really hit me hard after the gentle sounds of the nature and the river. I knew I was back in the world of sucky humanity as cars deliberately tried to splash me as they went over puddles quickly, at least it felt that way. It was raining harder now, I was cold and had gone beyond the point of hangry.

I went into M&S and bought myself a triple sandwich and a couple of flapjacks and went to sit by the window. I thought this store had a cafe but it didn’t and I wasn’t going to stand in the rain, so I ignored the quizzical looks from staff and stuffed all 3 sarnies down my gullet.

The rain was getting harder and I was getting a bit despondent, do I want to really do this? Will I derive anything from walking the rest of the way? Will it ruin my memories from the past few days? I was thinking of taking a bus or train into Southampton. By train it was 20 minutes, by foot along the river, at least another 3 hours. 3 hours in the rain or 20 minutes….

I decided to message Anne to see where she was, her train left at 4 from Southampton. She replied that she had gotten on the train at Eastleigh and was about to roll into Southampton. No!! What a coincidence however not totally unexpected seeing as the weather really had take a turn for the worse. I decided to walk over to the station to see when the next train to Southampton would depart. Having just missed it, it was my fortune to see a bus arrive. Now I was slightly annoyed at myself that I wasn’t walking the last stretch, but at the same time I was happy that I made a decision that was going to preserve all the good memories and not create a poor one. I got on the bus and arrived in Southampton about an hour later.

Someone must have been smiling on me today because when the doors of the bus opened, I stepped out into glorious sunshine! Now, some of you might have thought, dang it, if I had only just kept walking the rain would have lifted and I would get this. I chose to be grateful that I was finally warm, dry and arrived at my destination in beautiful weather.


I messaged Anne to let her know I’d arrived and suggested we meet at God’s House Tower. After getting my final stamp in the UK, St James Way badge and completion certificate (all available from the Tower), Anne and I made our way back into town to find coffee before heading to the train station. It was about 3pm.

My ticket was for the 6pm train back to London, but I was just going to get on an earlier train anyway and see if I manage to get away with it. On the way I managed to pick up a used book Road Trips Great Britain, hopefully this might interest my husband and I can get him out with me for once.


I got through the barriers with out fuss, arrived at London Waterloo at 5:24 and made it out the other barriers without any alarms going off. I had arrived in London before I was even due to leave Southampton on my planned ticket.

Everything on this trip could not have been more perfect. Thanks for following this thread. Buen Camino to you on your next journey, I’m already starting to look for the next one!

If anyone has questions about the route or where I stayed etc, please feel free to ask.
Goodnight all
Fi

 

[Vacajoe]

I am happy you walked, but saddened you took the bus the last section. I truly hope you return someday to finish that portion. Personally, I found that bit to be a very enjoyable mix of urban and rural.

 

[JennyH94]

Thanks Fi for sharing your journey on the St James Way … your openness and positivity really shone out every day. The St James Way sure sounds as though it has its own particular magic.

The St James Way is now on my list for a future camino, thanks to the inspiring account of your journey.

Best best wishes from Oz -
Jenny

 

[Goodnewt]

Yes I will be following this with the Ingles from Coruña, when finances permit. That will then leave the Ingles from Ferrol as a full route if I was ever to do that one too.

Love hearing your joyful challenges, thanks for sharing I will be back in UK later in the year for some walking so it is good to be reminded of the MUD The Camino Inglés is a lovely route with some great albergues. Being English, it was the first one I walked. I am sure you will enjoy any journey that you undertake.

 

[Kirkie]

Day 5: Winchester to Southampton (15 miles)

Final day! I’m actually done and on the train bound for London. Feeling a little sad that it has ended but had yet another marvellous day so here it is.

Unfortunately it was another terrible nights sleep, by 3am I just told myself to quit scrolling and get some shut eye, it was going to be a tough days walk for me in terms of distance.

My lodgings for the night was basic and cold and not exactly pleasant but it did the job. Funny, if I had a private room when I was in Portugal this would have been luxury, but back in Blighty the room was shambolic. Anyway, it did it’s job and I was on the road a little after 9.

I happened to find a room about a mile and a half from Winchester Cathedral so I already had a bit of a head start for the day. Instead of walking directly back to the designated path, I detoured to a little further along the route, as I said before, I’m no puritan!

I was back on the marked path right by St Cross Church and Hospital, how serendipitous! I popped my head in to look around and to take some pictures. I went to the porters lodge which also served as a shop and ticket office and identified myself as a pilgrim and asked for a stamp. The lady very kindly obliged and we had a discussion of my journey so far. It was now around 9:30, I enquired about Matin, she said yes it was going to be at 10 and last about 20 minutes. I asked what it was, morning prayers, then I asked if I could attend and have a look around the grounds in the mean time. She smiled and waved me through.
View attachment 145350
View attachment 145351View attachment 145352

How magnificent! Again, nary a soul in sight. I left my backpack at the back of the church in the corner and gingerly wandered around before taking my seat in one of the middle pews. The Brothers started to walk in and took their seats in the front. A priest went and sat in his pulpit. It was almost 10. A gentleman came in, walked to the priest who handed him a book of Psalms and a booklet with the order of service. My heart started thumping. I should go and get one of those, but I was rooted to my seat. He then announced that today we will be reading Psalm 105, and that we are to reading the first 16 verses together. Tick tock tick tock. If I don’t go I’m not going to know what is going on, if I do go I might annoy the priest. It was 10:58, I stood up, tiptoed to the priest and did a book gesture with my hands. He smiled and handed me what I needed. I returned to my seat looked for Psalm 105 and then the bell sounded. People stood, I stood. The priest started to speak, others responded. It was like a call and response, only I had no idea how to respond. People sat, I sat. I must have seemed lost because the man in the front pew, who turned out to a trustee of the church came over to me and pointed to the books of Psalms and said, we are here. I tried to follow, there were only 2 in the church outside of the Brothers and priest. I spoke quietly, fearing to be heard. Part of it was also fearing I’d be heard by God who would smite me for saying words I had no affinity for. The service jumped around a bit and at times I had difficulty following the order. However I think I did pretty well, a few months ago I would never have even thought to sit in let alone participate! Now I have sat in on prayers and evensong!

As the service ended the man in the front pew came up to me and asked if I was walking the St James Way, we had a little conversation about it and then he very kindly took the book and order of device from me to put them away. The priest was standing by the side of the pews to wave people off I suppose and I went the other direction towards the back to retrieve my backpack and my a quiet exit.

Outside, it had just began to drizzle, I stood outside the doorway to find my waterproof, then the priest came out, I was caught red handed. No I’m not a believer, sorry I invaded your space! The priest smiled at me, thanked me for joining in the service and asked me if I was a pilgrim. He then told me to go back to the porters lodge and ask for the dole, as he went on his way, he said God bless you, I said thank you. Somehow, that doesn’t sound right when you say it to a man of God. Can someone tell me what is the correct response?

Anyway, I went back to the porters lodge and had another lovely chat with the lady, I told her I was so lost in that service and she told me not to worry about it, they change it all the time, they just say what they like. Then I said I was told to come here and ask for the dole, so ask for it then! We had a good old giggle. I declined the beer seeing as I don’t drink anyway, the bread was symbolic enough. I took the offering and went on my merry way. What a completely magical experience. That’s not even the right word but I don’t have a word for it right now, for me it was indescribable. This was a big one for me, to not fear in the face of religion, I was so full of joy. I danced my way along the river with a beaming smile on my face and my heart full.

Even though the weather had take a turn for the worse, it was still a beautiful walk. A little muddy at times but just about manageable. The path is narrow, at times only single file, some of the way has been concreted which is a little treacherous when wet as it has eroded into a slope in some places.
View attachment 145353View attachment 145354

After midday I was about 4 miles in, I was getting hangry and I was cold from the rain. I consulted the map and saw that I was coming up to Allbrook shortly but that conveniences were at the next stop, Eastleigh. I could keep on the river path or I could divert off at Allbrook and take the road which is straighter and might save me some time and distance. Also it would make for smoother, easier walking. As I neared Allbrook I decided to go off piste.

This bit was miserable, the roar of the traffic really hit me hard after the gentle sounds of the nature and the river. I knew I was back in the world of sucky humanity as cars deliberately tried to splash me as they went over puddles quickly, at least it felt that way. It was raining harder now, I was cold and had gone beyond the point of hangry.

I went into M&S and bought myself a triple sandwich and a couple of flapjacks and went to sit by the window. I thought this store had a cafe but it didn’t and I wasn’t going to stand in the rain, so I ignored the quizzical looks from staff and stuffed all 3 sarnies down my gullet.

The rain was getting harder and I was getting a bit despondent, do I want to really do this? Will I derive anything from walking the rest of the way? Will it ruin my memories from the past few days? I was thinking of taking a bus or train into Southampton. By train it was 20 minutes, by foot along the river, at least another 3 hours. 3 hours in the rain or 20 minutes….

I decided to message Anne to see where she was, her train left at 4 from Southampton. She replied that she had gotten on the train at Eastleigh and was about to roll into Southampton. No!! What a coincidence however not totally unexpected seeing as the weather really had take a turn for the worse. I decided to walk over to the station to see when the next train to Southampton would depart. Having just missed it, it was my fortune to see a bus arrive. Now I was slightly annoyed at myself that I wasn’t walking the last stretch, but at the same time I was happy that I made a decision that was going to preserve all the good memories and not create a poor one. I got on the bus and arrived in Southampton about an hour later.

Someone must have been smiling on me today because when the doors of the bus opened, I stepped out into glorious sunshine! Now, some of you might have thought, dang it, if I had only just kept walking the rain would have lifted and I would get this. I chose to be grateful that I was finally warm, dry and arrived at my destination in beautiful weather.
View attachment 145356View attachment 145357View attachment 145358

I messaged Anne to let her know I’d arrived and suggested we meet at God’s House Tower. After getting my final stamp in the UK, St James Way badge and completion certificate (all available from the Tower), Anne and I made our way back into town to find coffee before heading to the train station. It was about 3pm.

My ticket was for the 6pm train back to London, but I was just going to get on an earlier train anyway and see if I manage to get away with it. On the way I managed to pick up a used book Road Trips Great Britain, hopefully this might interest my husband and I can get him out with me for once.
View attachment 145359

I got through the barriers with out fuss, arrived at London Waterloo at 5:24 and made it out the other barriers without any alarms going off. I had arrived in London before I was even due to leave Southampton on my planned ticket.

Everything on this trip could not have been more perfect. Thanks for following this thread. Buen Camino to you on your next journey, I’m already starting to look for the next one!

If anyone has questions about the route or where I stayed etc, please feel free to ask.
Goodnight all
Fi

You have a real talent, in your writing. I won't say writing style, just the effect of how you express yourself.
This struck me: Part of it was also fearing I’d be heard by God who would smite me for saying words I had no affinity for.
Oh, dear, the God I believe in has nothing to do with the one you were fearing...
I believe you have found your camino.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[VNwalking]

feel free to tell me to shut up

Thank God you didn't!
What a wonderful account, mud and all!
I'm so glad to have found it...better late than never.

The walk from A Coruña is a joy - looking forward to reading your account of it when you get around to walking it.

 

[kathanne]

Thank you, Ficklefancyfree. I have enjoyed your walk and am looking forward to my own.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

FFF, I have enjoyed reading your detailed posts and they make me yearn to one day get back to this lovely country to walk more. I have the Southwest Coastal Path guidebook on the shelf waiting in the wings to possibly walk a long section some day; a bucket list item squeezed into too many others.

Your pictures have been outstanding and definitely whet the appetite; the continuous blue skies prove that England is not necessarily always wet in spring.

 

[The Cumbrian]

Day 5: Winchester to Southampton (15 miles)

Final day! I’m actually done and on the train bound for London. Feeling a little sad that it has ended but had yet another marvellous day so here it is.

Unfortunately it was another terrible nights sleep, by 3am I just told myself to quit scrolling and get some shut eye, it was going to be a tough days walk for me in terms of distance.

My lodgings for the night was basic and cold and not exactly pleasant but it did the job. Funny, if I had a private room when I was in Portugal this would have been luxury, but back in Blighty the room was shambolic. Anyway, it did it’s job and I was on the road a little after 9.

I happened to find a room about a mile and a half from Winchester Cathedral so I already had a bit of a head start for the day. Instead of walking directly back to the designated path, I detoured to a little further along the route, as I said before, I’m no puritan!

I was back on the marked path right by St Cross Church and Hospital, how serendipitous! I popped my head in to look around and to take some pictures. I went to the porters lodge which also served as a shop and ticket office and identified myself as a pilgrim and asked for a stamp. The lady very kindly obliged and we had a discussion of my journey so far. It was now around 9:30, I enquired about Matin, she said yes it was going to be at 10 and last about 20 minutes. I asked what it was, morning prayers, then I asked if I could attend and have a look around the grounds in the mean time. She smiled and waved me through.
View attachment 145350
View attachment 145351View attachment 145352

How magnificent! Again, nary a soul in sight. I left my backpack at the back of the church in the corner and gingerly wandered around before taking my seat in one of the middle pews. The Brothers started to walk in and took their seats in the front. A priest went and sat in his pulpit. It was almost 10. A gentleman came in, walked to the priest who handed him a book of Psalms and a booklet with the order of service. My heart started thumping. I should go and get one of those, but I was rooted to my seat. He then announced that today we will be reading Psalm 105, and that we are to reading the first 16 verses together. Tick tock tick tock. If I don’t go I’m not going to know what is going on, if I do go I might annoy the priest. It was 10:58, I stood up, tiptoed to the priest and did a book gesture with my hands. He smiled and handed me what I needed. I returned to my seat looked for Psalm 105 and then the bell sounded. People stood, I stood. The priest started to speak, others responded. It was like a call and response, only I had no idea how to respond. People sat, I sat. I must have seemed lost because the man in the front pew, who turned out to a trustee of the church came over to me and pointed to the books of Psalms and said, we are here. I tried to follow, there were only 2 in the church outside of the Brothers and priest. I spoke quietly, fearing to be heard. Part of it was also fearing I’d be heard by God who would smite me for saying words I had no affinity for. The service jumped around a bit and at times I had difficulty following the order. However I think I did pretty well, a few months ago I would never have even thought to sit in let alone participate! Now I have sat in on prayers and evensong!

As the service ended the man in the front pew came up to me and asked if I was walking the St James Way, we had a little conversation about it and then he very kindly took the book and order of device from me to put them away. The priest was standing by the side of the pews to wave people off I suppose and I went the other direction towards the back to retrieve my backpack and my a quiet exit.

Outside, it had just began to drizzle, I stood outside the doorway to find my waterproof, then the priest came out, I was caught red handed. No I’m not a believer, sorry I invaded your space! The priest smiled at me, thanked me for joining in the service and asked me if I was a pilgrim. He then told me to go back to the porters lodge and ask for the dole, as he went on his way, he said God bless you, I said thank you. Somehow, that doesn’t sound right when you say it to a man of God. Can someone tell me what is the correct response?

Anyway, I went back to the porters lodge and had another lovely chat with the lady, I told her I was so lost in that service and she told me not to worry about it, they change it all the time, they just say what they like. Then I said I was told to come here and ask for the dole, so ask for it then! We had a good old giggle. I declined the beer seeing as I don’t drink anyway, the bread was symbolic enough. I took the offering and went on my merry way. What a completely magical experience. That’s not even the right word but I don’t have a word for it right now, for me it was indescribable. This was a big one for me, to not fear in the face of religion, I was so full of joy. I danced my way along the river with a beaming smile on my face and my heart full.

Even though the weather had take a turn for the worse, it was still a beautiful walk. A little muddy at times but just about manageable. The path is narrow, at times only single file, some of the way has been concreted which is a little treacherous when wet as it has eroded into a slope in some places.
View attachment 145353View attachment 145354

After midday I was about 4 miles in, I was getting hangry and I was cold from the rain. I consulted the map and saw that I was coming up to Allbrook shortly but that conveniences were at the next stop, Eastleigh. I could keep on the river path or I could divert off at Allbrook and take the road which is straighter and might save me some time and distance. Also it would make for smoother, easier walking. As I neared Allbrook I decided to go off piste.

This bit was miserable, the roar of the traffic really hit me hard after the gentle sounds of the nature and the river. I knew I was back in the world of sucky humanity as cars deliberately tried to splash me as they went over puddles quickly, at least it felt that way. It was raining harder now, I was cold and had gone beyond the point of hangry.

I went into M&S and bought myself a triple sandwich and a couple of flapjacks and went to sit by the window. I thought this store had a cafe but it didn’t and I wasn’t going to stand in the rain, so I ignored the quizzical looks from staff and stuffed all 3 sarnies down my gullet.

The rain was getting harder and I was getting a bit despondent, do I want to really do this? Will I derive anything from walking the rest of the way? Will it ruin my memories from the past few days? I was thinking of taking a bus or train into Southampton. By train it was 20 minutes, by foot along the river, at least another 3 hours. 3 hours in the rain or 20 minutes….

I decided to message Anne to see where she was, her train left at 4 from Southampton. She replied that she had gotten on the train at Eastleigh and was about to roll into Southampton. No!! What a coincidence however not totally unexpected seeing as the weather really had take a turn for the worse. I decided to walk over to the station to see when the next train to Southampton would depart. Having just missed it, it was my fortune to see a bus arrive. Now I was slightly annoyed at myself that I wasn’t walking the last stretch, but at the same time I was happy that I made a decision that was going to preserve all the good memories and not create a poor one. I got on the bus and arrived in Southampton about an hour later.

Someone must have been smiling on me today because when the doors of the bus opened, I stepped out into glorious sunshine! Now, some of you might have thought, dang it, if I had only just kept walking the rain would have lifted and I would get this. I chose to be grateful that I was finally warm, dry and arrived at my destination in beautiful weather.
View attachment 145356View attachment 145357View attachment 145358

I messaged Anne to let her know I’d arrived and suggested we meet at God’s House Tower. After getting my final stamp in the UK, St James Way badge and completion certificate (all available from the Tower), Anne and I made our way back into town to find coffee before heading to the train station. It was about 3pm.

My ticket was for the 6pm train back to London, but I was just going to get on an earlier train anyway and see if I manage to get away with it. On the way I managed to pick up a used book Road Trips Great Britain, hopefully this might interest my husband and I can get him out with me for once.
View attachment 145359

I got through the barriers with out fuss, arrived at London Waterloo at 5:24 and made it out the other barriers without any alarms going off. I had arrived in London before I was even due to leave Southampton on my planned ticket.

Everything on this trip could not have been more perfect. Thanks for following this thread. Buen Camino to you on your next journey, I’m already starting to look for the next one!

If anyone has questions about the route or where I stayed etc, please feel free to ask.
Goodnight all
Fi

Could you post a pic of the stamp from God's House Tower and your completion certificate please? When I was there (less than a year ago) no one knew anything about either and I didn't get one.

 

[ficklefancyfree]

Could you post a pic of the stamp from God's House Tower and your completion certificate please? When I was there (less than a year ago) no one knew anything about either and I didn't get one.

Ta-da!!


Although I did not complete the ‘pilgrim register’. As you walk into the tower there is a reception desk and she gave me a stamp and upsold me with the certificate and badge but didn’t mention the register and I was so happy I forgot!

In my guidebook there was a one page supplement, pic below. Perhaps you had the guide before this was established? Guess you have to do it all over again

 

[ficklefancyfree]

@Kirkie

This struck me: Part of it was also fearing I’d be heard by God who would smite me for saying words I had no affinity for.
Oh, dear, the God I believe in has nothing to do with the one you were fearing...

You can probably tell from my writing, how I can turn the most mundane and make it melodramatic! I just had a little imposter syndrome going on, and I was alone, so my head hyped it up a little is all. Don’t fret little pet is going to become a mantra to me

 

[ficklefancyfree]

I am happy you walked, but saddened you took the bus the last section. I truly hope you return someday to finish that portion. Personally, I found that bit to be a very enjoyable mix of urban and rural.

Why saddened? Is it because I technically didn’t walk the whole route?

 

[Susan Maria]

So glad you enjoyed (mostly) your walk on our St James Way! thank you for your wonderful report and pics.

 

[MichaelMySon]

I have really enjoyed your journey and the lovely description of each day . Will be walking my own camino in April 25 away to go yet ..thank you for your honesty and expression .buen camino

 

[Vacajoe]

Why saddened? Is it because I technically didn’t walk the whole route?

Yes, precisely. Even the document you received at God’s Tower specifically denotes that you completed the route “on foot.” I hope you have the opportunity to return to complete those last few miles on foot, not only to fulfill the obligation of receiving that certificate, but more so to see that final bit of the path as you enter into the urban area along the Itchen canal that has been your companion off-and-on for the past few days.

 

[kathanne]

I think that Ficklefancyfree could be forgiven for missing out those last few miles
She gave good reasons why she did so. The main thing is she gained from the way, spiritually.

 

[terrypis]

Day 5: Winchester to Southampton (15 miles)

Final day! I’m actually done and on the train bound for London. Feeling a little sad that it has ended but had yet another marvellous day so here it is.

Unfortunately it was another terrible nights sleep, by 3am I just told myself to quit scrolling and get some shut eye, it was going to be a tough days walk for me in terms of distance.

My lodgings for the night was basic and cold and not exactly pleasant but it did the job. Funny, if I had a private room when I was in Portugal this would have been luxury, but back in Blighty the room was shambolic. Anyway, it did it’s job and I was on the road a little after 9.

I happened to find a room about a mile and a half from Winchester Cathedral so I already had a bit of a head start for the day. Instead of walking directly back to the designated path, I detoured to a little further along the route, as I said before, I’m no puritan!

I was back on the marked path right by St Cross Church and Hospital, how serendipitous! I popped my head in to look around and to take some pictures. I went to the porters lodge which also served as a shop and ticket office and identified myself as a pilgrim and asked for a stamp. The lady very kindly obliged and we had a discussion of my journey so far. It was now around 9:30, I enquired about Matin, she said yes it was going to be at 10 and last about 20 minutes. I asked what it was, morning prayers, then I asked if I could attend and have a look around the grounds in the mean time. She smiled and waved me through.
View attachment 145350
View attachment 145351View attachment 145352

How magnificent! Again, nary a soul in sight. I left my backpack at the back of the church in the corner and gingerly wandered around before taking my seat in one of the middle pews. The Brothers started to walk in and took their seats in the front. A priest went and sat in his pulpit. It was almost 10. A gentleman came in, walked to the priest who handed him a book of Psalms and a booklet with the order of service. My heart started thumping. I should go and get one of those, but I was rooted to my seat. He then announced that today we will be reading Psalm 105, and that we are to reading the first 16 verses together. Tick tock tick tock. If I don’t go I’m not going to know what is going on, if I do go I might annoy the priest. It was 10:58, I stood up, tiptoed to the priest and did a book gesture with my hands. He smiled and handed me what I needed. I returned to my seat looked for Psalm 105 and then the bell sounded. People stood, I stood. The priest started to speak, others responded. It was like a call and response, only I had no idea how to respond. People sat, I sat. I must have seemed lost because the man in the front pew, who turned out to a trustee of the church came over to me and pointed to the books of Psalms and said, we are here. I tried to follow, there were only 2 in the church outside of the Brothers and priest. I spoke quietly, fearing to be heard. Part of it was also fearing I’d be heard by God who would smite me for saying words I had no affinity for. The service jumped around a bit and at times I had difficulty following the order. However I think I did pretty well, a few months ago I would never have even thought to sit in let alone participate! Now I have sat in on prayers and evensong!

As the service ended the man in the front pew came up to me and asked if I was walking the St James Way, we had a little conversation about it and then he very kindly took the book and order of device from me to put them away. The priest was standing by the side of the pews to wave people off I suppose and I went the other direction towards the back to retrieve my backpack and my a quiet exit.

Outside, it had just began to drizzle, I stood outside the doorway to find my waterproof, then the priest came out, I was caught red handed. No I’m not a believer, sorry I invaded your space! The priest smiled at me, thanked me for joining in the service and asked me if I was a pilgrim. He then told me to go back to the porters lodge and ask for the dole, as he went on his way, he said God bless you, I said thank you. Somehow, that doesn’t sound right when you say it to a man of God. Can someone tell me what is the correct response?

Anyway, I went back to the porters lodge and had another lovely chat with the lady, I told her I was so lost in that service and she told me not to worry about it, they change it all the time, they just say what they like. Then I said I was told to come here and ask for the dole, so ask for it then! We had a good old giggle. I declined the beer seeing as I don’t drink anyway, the bread was symbolic enough. I took the offering and went on my merry way. What a completely magical experience. That’s not even the right word but I don’t have a word for it right now, for me it was indescribable. This was a big one for me, to not fear in the face of religion, I was so full of joy. I danced my way along the river with a beaming smile on my face and my heart full.

Even though the weather had take a turn for the worse, it was still a beautiful walk. A little muddy at times but just about manageable. The path is narrow, at times only single file, some of the way has been concreted which is a little treacherous when wet as it has eroded into a slope in some places.
View attachment 145353View attachment 145354

After midday I was about 4 miles in, I was getting hangry and I was cold from the rain. I consulted the map and saw that I was coming up to Allbrook shortly but that conveniences were at the next stop, Eastleigh. I could keep on the river path or I could divert off at Allbrook and take the road which is straighter and might save me some time and distance. Also it would make for smoother, easier walking. As I neared Allbrook I decided to go off piste.

This bit was miserable, the roar of the traffic really hit me hard after the gentle sounds of the nature and the river. I knew I was back in the world of sucky humanity as cars deliberately tried to splash me as they went over puddles quickly, at least it felt that way. It was raining harder now, I was cold and had gone beyond the point of hangry.

I went into M&S and bought myself a triple sandwich and a couple of flapjacks and went to sit by the window. I thought this store had a cafe but it didn’t and I wasn’t going to stand in the rain, so I ignored the quizzical looks from staff and stuffed all 3 sarnies down my gullet.

The rain was getting harder and I was getting a bit despondent, do I want to really do this? Will I derive anything from walking the rest of the way? Will it ruin my memories from the past few days? I was thinking of taking a bus or train into Southampton. By train it was 20 minutes, by foot along the river, at least another 3 hours. 3 hours in the rain or 20 minutes….

I decided to message Anne to see where she was, her train left at 4 from Southampton. She replied that she had gotten on the train at Eastleigh and was about to roll into Southampton. No!! What a coincidence however not totally unexpected seeing as the weather really had take a turn for the worse. I decided to walk over to the station to see when the next train to Southampton would depart. Having just missed it, it was my fortune to see a bus arrive. Now I was slightly annoyed at myself that I wasn’t walking the last stretch, but at the same time I was happy that I made a decision that was going to preserve all the good memories and not create a poor one. I got on the bus and arrived in Southampton about an hour later.

Someone must have been smiling on me today because when the doors of the bus opened, I stepped out into glorious sunshine! Now, some of you might have thought, dang it, if I had only just kept walking the rain would have lifted and I would get this. I chose to be grateful that I was finally warm, dry and arrived at my destination in beautiful weather.
View attachment 145356View attachment 145357View attachment 145358

I messaged Anne to let her know I’d arrived and suggested we meet at God’s House Tower. After getting my final stamp in the UK, St James Way badge and completion certificate (all available from the Tower), Anne and I made our way back into town to find coffee before heading to the train station. It was about 3pm.

My ticket was for the 6pm train back to London, but I was just going to get on an earlier train anyway and see if I manage to get away with it. On the way I managed to pick up a used book Road Trips Great Britain, hopefully this might interest my husband and I can get him out with me for once.
View attachment 145359

I got through the barriers with out fuss, arrived at London Waterloo at 5:24 and made it out the other barriers without any alarms going off. I had arrived in London before I was even due to leave Southampton on my planned ticket.

Everything on this trip could not have been more perfect. Thanks for following this thread. Buen Camino to you on your next journey, I’m already starting to look for the next one!

If anyone has questions about the route or where I stayed etc, please feel free to ask.
Goodnight all
Fi

hi - i have just discovered your post, it's brilliant! thank you very much! Do you mind sharing a list of the accommodations you've used? I'd like to do part of it during the august BH. Thanks!

 

[B1nky]

Fantastic walk report and photos, thanks for taking the time to share your experiences with us.

Did you write a date next to the stamps in your credencial and did they check this when you received your certificate? I'll be walking this route over a few weekends and wonder if I'd need to stamp twice at the same place (end of one trip, beginning of the next) as is suggested when doing Spanish Caminos a bit at a time. I just want to make sure I get it right so the mileage I do in the UK allows me to walk the Ingles from A Coruna. Thanks

Binky

 

[tommycamino]

@ficklefancyfree, what was your favourite section of the walk?

 

[Trishb]

I have now completed just over half of the walk from Reading to Southampton in the UK section of the Camino Ingles and imagine there are those who might be considering it and also those who have completed it and may disagree with me. So let me firstly say that I applaud the CSJ (UK) for developing and promoting this route as a prequel to the section in northern Galicia. I believe they worked hard to get recognition and certainly the band of volunteers who put direction stickers did a great job - BUT! I started on Monday 14th August which I soon found out was a bad day as the Reading Museum was closed (my fault I know) the official starting point of the Church of St James was also closed I really wanted the stamp so knocked on the door of the vestry and apologised to the busy lady for interrupting and asked if it was possible to have the stamp. She said “It happens all the time” gave me the stamp and that was it - no good luck or Buen Camino.The weather was pretty grim and the walk out of Reading likewise but I expected that. For the most part the walk was uneventful following the river and not unduly muddy. Now the main problem with this Camino is the lack of accommodation en route. This means that it is really not affordable for many. The options are to return to larger towns by bus or train and stay in fairly expensive accommodation. I stayed the first night in Mortimer 12.5 miles from Reading in an exceptional airbnb right on the path. The owner had not really heard of the Camino or hosted any other walkers. Anyone planning to go ahead with this walk please check out airbnb.I had hoped to eat at the local pub but (you guessed it) it was closed for food.

The next day I was joined by a friend and the weather was warm but it was not advisable to walk in shorts as much of the path was overgrown with nettles and brambles lining the way. One of the reasons I had company was my friend had wanted to visit the Roman city of Silchester. Well, we spent ages looking for it because all that is left are ramparts and the amphitheatre is merely a round patch of ground - the colosseum it is not. I certainly advise not wasting time on this diversion. Because of the lack of accommodation we returned home from Worting. Today (Wednesday) was a beautiful day and despite the late start because of travel I began to feel the joy of the walk and maybe just a bit more like a pilgrim. A highlight being a lunch stop in the pub in Dummer to see England Ladies’ football team win.

Feeling a bit more positive about the whole experience I followed the well sign - posted route until after the village of Preston Candover it required a fairly long walk up a road with no pedestrian verge. Now you might think these are quiet country roads but they do not have speed cameras and the locals use this opportunity to see how fast their car can really go. I was relieved to arrive at the turn into a field and away from the main road. Unfortunately I had really hit a problem now as this particular day the field was being harvested and enormous machinery was going back and forth with dust and debris flying everywhere. It didn’t actually look safe to enter. Reluctantly I rejoined the dangerous road and walked the hard miles to my destination of New Alresford. From there I used buses and trains to get home as accommodation was very expensive.

I will continue the walk as I don’t give up, but honestly my experience of this Camino has been a major disappointment. I feel it has been ‘manufactured’ rather than authentic. Much of it is uncomfortable walking on the edge of ploughed fields, narrow overgrown paths or scary roads. Unless, in some way accommodation could be more convenient and affordable it will not attract people on a budget. I am sure there are those who have gone before who feel differently but I am commenting personally on my experience of the last 3 days. I am looking forward to the next chapter from A Coruna

 

[tommycamino]

Thank you for your warning @Trishb . You were very fair in your judgement. I'll be walking this route over the bank holiday weekend and relieved to have accommodation locally.

 

[MichaelMySon]

Thank you@Trisĥb .it only by pilgrims like you that keep us informed .stay safe good way

 

[Trishb]

Following on from my initial post in which I gave a less than positive report from St James Way in the UK, I took a day off to reconsider my attitude and comments. Returning with enthusiasm I began to 'feel' something more special about the walk and the highlight of Winchester Cathedral and the beautiful city confirmed this. The first few miles were muddy following heavy overnight rain but the day warm and sunny, so all good. The route follows the Itchen way along side the river. I am now going to be cynical, the excellent Pilgrim's guide from the CSJ has a lovely picture on the front of a group 3 abreast walking a wide path. This is entirely misleading and was certainly not taken on this section and in fact most of the way from Reading is very narrow. Not only is this section single - file walking but on meeting anyone coming in the opposite direction necessitates stopping and moving to the side into unfriendly brambles and nettles. This made for very slow progress and as this continued relentlessly my enthusiasm waned. The path emerges at Bishopstoke road and now I had a choice. Looking at the path ahead (barely visible) and the bus stop to the right without any feeling of guilt or failure I turned right. I saw no reason to plod on getting more scratches and nettle stings just to prove a point.

As I said in the first post, this walk is due to the efforts of the CSJ and is clearly way marked and the guide informative and comprehensively researched. There will be other months when the weather has not lead to overgrown paths and therefore others will have a different experience. There is a definite Catch 22 here, the lack of affordable accommodation will deter those on a tight budget and the lack of footfall will not improve that or indeed the path itself.

I believe there are efforts to work with the British Pilgrim's Trust to overcome the accommodation situation which would certainly help. Is it an enjoyable walk?
Hmmm.

 

[B1nky]

Sorry to hear of your negative experiences @Trishb

Maybe it's because I walk paths like this in the area quite regularly that I think nothing of them, so far this route has felt just like other walks in South East England but I'd agree that some of the little used UK footpaths can be a bit overgrown. I have an old cheap hiking pole that I bring with me and I don't mind using it to whack nettles and brambles out of the way, I sometimes wonder if more people did this instead of just squeezing through would overgrown paths be less of a problem for the next person? We can only hope that increased interest in the St James' Way and increased footfall will mean fewer overgrown paths and perhaps better maintained infrastructure (I noticed one broken stile just before Sulhamstead Abbots and removed encroaching ivy from a couple of signposts near Bramley).

The lack of affordable accommodation is sadly a UK-wide issue apart from perhaps in some national parks and along a few well established national trails. The Youth Hostel Association in this country seem to be selling off a lot of their properties and those that are left are often hard to book for an individual or small group, the YHA prefering to rent whole hostels or rooms to large groups instead it seems. Perhaps with time if the popularity of this route grows then we may see budget accommodation but to make providing accommodation financially feasible there would have to be a lot of people walking this route. I've read articles about churches, church halls and village halls opening their doors for "indoor camping", perhaps something like this could be tried at weekends or on certain days that could be booked. Would people be prepared to settle for something basic like this?

I also agree that the CSJ have done a great job in writing a guide, waymarking the route, organising stamps and producing merchandise for the St James' Way. My only slight criticism (and this is just personal preference) would be that getting a couple of the stamps involves phoning ahead and arranging to have someone bring it along to the church to meet you. I personally feel a little uncomfortable phoning and asking someone to do this and prefer the ones that are available in a church porch or that can be asked for in a pub (all the pubs I've asked so far have immediately produced the stamp from under the counter, Carluccios in Reading were a little confused but eventually they found a tiny stamp with just a blue letter "C" on it).

 

[Susan Maria]

Thank you @Trishb for this thread and also your updates. This summer has been quite wet with frequent cloud cover, ideal growing conditions for weeds, and it's not surprising some footpaths and bridleways haven't been maintained as closely as would be ideal. The bodies responsible for this are individual farmers and hard-pressed local authorities: "While it is the responsibility of the local authority to maintain the surface of public footpaths, it is the duty of the landowner to ensure they are safe for use". Whereas for the National Trails "Maintenance work is carried out by the local highway authorities together with landowners often with the help of volunteers." and they are normally very good. The SJW does not have that status.

sources:

Public Footpath ‘do’s and don’ts’ for landowners

Public Footpath ‘do’s and don’ts’ for landowners - News and Legal Commentary from Muckle LLP.

www.muckle-llp.com

Explore your National Trails

www.nationaltrail.co.uk

 

[tommycamino]

I just finished yesterday this Way of St James / Camino Inglés, Reading to Southampton, so I thought I'd jump on this thread.

Personally I had a great time re-living some of my Camino closer to home. However, I was lucky to have accommodation nearby and we stayed in Winchester one night. I definitely agree that accommodation is the biggest prohibitive factor. If I could make one recommendation to the Confraternity, it would be to see whether discounts could be arranged for pilgrims at accommodation, which I think would be a win-win for all concerned.

I think the company really made the trip and I can't imagine it would have been much fun on my own.

I was expecting hardly any pilgrims to have done it but someone else had left earlier that day! Judging from church guestbooks, it seemed like there were people walking it most weeks. There was a good range of pubs offering stamps, even if the staff were quite often confused when you requested them. The certificate from God's House Tower at the end was a really lovely touch, which we didn't know about.

The path was marked a lot more clearly than I thought it would be. Some parts were really scenic. Nevertheless, I was so disappointed with how overgrown the Itchen Way, Winchester to Southampton section, was. You really need poles and trousers to navigate those nettles. It could well have ruined the trip in its entirety.

 

[Trishb]

Well done on your positive attitude. Better than mine!

 

[B1nky]

Congratulations on completing the route, Tommy. I too have noticed a fair amount of pilgrim signatures in church guestbooks.

I see that on the Hampshire county council website there is a page where issues with public rights of way can be reported, I tried using it to report a tree that had fallen across the path by the golf course just North of Worting (and the general state of the section alongside that golf course) but it seems you need to create an account and log in to do so.

I beat back the worst of the overhanging brambles and nettles with my pole as I walked that section but I did find it ironic that the golf club clearly put a lot of effort into maintaining the course while the footpath across their land gets neglected. Could it be another case of the landowner not wanting to maintain the public right of way in case it encourages more people to legally walk across their land?

 

[B1nky]

Update on reporting footpath issues in the county of Hampshire.

I've had a reply from the council on facebook advising that issues can be e-mailed to the support them at countryside@hants.gov.uk explaining that I don't want to create an account as I'm only visiting the area, and to include as much information as possible such as location and photos of the issue if any were taken.

The website https://gridreferencefinder.com/ can be used to find map grid references, street addresses and WhatThreeWords locations to forward on to the council.

Hopefully if enough of us report the issues we encounter then the St james' Way will be kept more accessible for all.