St James Way (Southern England)

[Vacajoe]

Day One: Portsmouth to Titchfield (12 miles)

In the Middle Ages, the Reading Cathedral claimed to have the hand of St James and served as the center of that saint’s devotion in England. Pilgrims journeying to SdC would often start there and then walk south to Southampton to catch a boat to France or Spain to continue their pilgrimage.

My wife and I have chosen to reverse-walk the St James Way in Southern England (Southampton to Reading), but have added two additional stages prior to the route since we are reaching England via ferry into Portsmouth. Portsmouth is worth a visit in its own right due to its extensive naval presence and the existence of multiple historic ships for touring. Multiple train, bus, and ferry routes (including international) converge in this town, making it an easy choice for the start of a walk.

At around 90 miles total, it’s easily doable in 6-8 days. Though there is little in the way of pilgrim support, the route passed through endless villages which all contain pubs, inns, markets, and every possible convenience for pilgrims. The Confraternity of Saint James has published a guide to the route and has been working with local pubs to develop credential stamps. They have also been actively signposting the route, though reverse-walking tends to negate those efforts.

Although rain greeted us upon waking this morning, the weather cleared up a bit and we had cool, overcast skies as our companion. We chose to loosely follow the “Solent Way” which is also named the English Coast Path and the European Route 9 (the app map.cy shows the route ver clearly). It starts in Gosport which is a quick ferry ride from downtown Portsmouth. The path is almost completely next to the water on tarmac/asphalt, cement, or stone. Plenty of bathrooms, cafes, and stores, plus many benches and areas to rest. Public water fountains were hard to find.

At the Titchfield Nature Preserve, we detoured off the path about three miles northward to the village of Titchfield in order to see the Titchfield Abbey, once a way stop for pilgrims headed from Southampton to Canterbury.

 

[dick bird]

Day One: Portsmouth to Titchfield (12 miles)

In the Middle Ages, the Reading Cathedral claimed to have the hand of St James and served as the center of that saint’s devotion in England. Pilgrims journeying to SdC would often start there and then walk south to Southampton to catch a boat to France or Spain to continue their pilgrimage.

My wife and I have chosen to reverse-walk the St James Way in Southern England (Southampton to Reading), but have added two additional stages prior to the route since we are reaching England via ferry into Portsmouth. Portsmouth is worth a visit in its own right due to its extensive naval presence and the existence of multiple historic ships for touring. Multiple train, bus, and ferry routes (including international) converge in this town, making it an easy choice for the start of a walk.

At around 90 miles total, it’s easily doable in 6-8 days. Though there is little in the way of pilgrim support, the route passed through endless villages which all contain pubs, inns, markets, and every possible convenience for pilgrims. The Confraternity of Saint James has published a guide to the route and has been working with local pubs to develop credential stamps. They have also been actively signposting the route, though reverse-walking tends to negate those efforts.

Although rain greeted us upon waking this morning, the weather cleared up a bit and we had cool, overcast skies as our companion. We chose to loosely follow the “Solent Way” which is also named the English Coast Path and the European Route 9 (the app map.cy shows the route ver clearly). It starts in Gosport which is a quick ferry ride from downtown Portsmouth. The path is almost completely next to the water on tarmac/asphalt, cement, or stone. Plenty of bathrooms, cafes, and stores, plus many benches and areas to rest. Public water fountains were hard to find.

At the Titchfield Nature Preserve, we detoured off the path about three miles northward to the village of Titchfield in order to see the Titchfield Abbey, once a way stop for pilgrims headed from Southampton to Canterbury.

We walked the section from Reading to Silchester as a day walk while staying with family in the UK post camino. It is quite well way marked but not for south to north. I'd invest in a set of Ordnance Survey maps and marking your route in pencil off the GPS the night before. They are excellent - accurate and easy to follow. You are right about support although hotel accommodation in the UK is painfully expensive but some wonderful things to see en route - every parish church is a gem, and lovely countryside. Buen camino.

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 2: Titchfield to Southampton (15 miles)

While only 8 miles by car per Google Maps, we did just over 15 miles today since we followed some local pathways and made some tourist detours!

Today was mostly a mix of country paths and sidewalks next to roadways. We could have followed a major road directly to Southampton, but we wanted to follow the Coastal Path as much as possible, so we headed southwest out of Titchfield through the Chilling Nature Preserve to reach the coast again. We’re I to do it again, I’d skip much of this coast today as it’s far less pristine and definitely more industrial. Additionally, walkers are forced from it often as private developments block some of the access. At one point, the path became a mile-long jaunt across the rocky beach which sounds adventurous but was truly exhausting.

Two highlights were visiting the ruins of the Titchfield and Netley Abbeys, both seized during the Reformation. Both were admission free and we were the only ones there. Fascinating history and lovely places to take rest breaks (no amenities, though).

Finally, we were very excited to get our first pilgrim stamp in our new credential! We chose the Duke of Wellington pub for that honor and it turns out that we were the bartenders first pilgrims! Cheers all the way around!

 

[Corned Beef]

See you took the (pink) Hamble Ferry. Did you manage to avoid the oil storage facility or just walk along the seashore?

 

[Vacajoe]

See you took the (pink) Hamble Ferry. Did you manage to avoid the oil storage facility or just walk along the seashore?

Yes, we took the pink ferry from Warsash to Hamble - about a 10 minute ride at high tide for 2.5£ each. Very fun and the only way to cross the River Hamble in that area. They’re looking for a weekend ferryman if anyone is interested!

 

[Corned Beef]

Hamble is a tremendous boating area as you will have seen from the numerous weekend craft moored there. As you walk north, you'll be getting into some beautiful countryside - and a couple of climbs over the Downs (South and North).

Winchester and it's Cathedral is worth a long stop. If you were later in the year you might have heard the Cathedral choir practice but as some of the choristers come from Winchester College, it will be unlikely as term hasn't started yet. The College is one of the top schools in the country for those that can afford it's £44K annual fees.

 

[Vacajoe]

Thank you for the insight! Like most Caminos, you pass through these areas so quickly and miss out on so much! Being a bank holiday weekend, there are fun fairs, concerts, and sporting events everywhere we go, but we have pre-booked due to those same events, so we must keep to a schedule.

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 3 - Southampton to Winchester (18 miles)

Wow, a long day, but stunningly beautiful countryside for most of the way! A good portion of the route is along pastures and environmentally protected areas with few places to rest or sit. Additionally, the path was frequently infringed upon by nettles, thistles, and bramble, so long trousers and shirts are preferable. Nearly flat the entire way with frequent walkers in both directions.

Unlike the Spanish Camino routes, public water taps are difficult to find, so purchased bottle water is necessary. This stage had excellent Camino markings, but I think a map is still necessary if you are unfamiliar with the area. As we are reverse-walking, a map is absolutely critical!

Sadly, the Hospital was already closed when we reached it, so no “dole” for us . The pubs with stamps have been very happy to provide a stamp for us.

There is so much to see at both ends of this stage that I’d suggest either cutting this stage in half or spending an extra night in both cities. As has been noted here and by others, overnight accommodations are the bane of this Camino, ranging from 80£-120£ for simple accommodations. These likely are cheaper after the summer holidays are over.

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 4: Winchester to New Alresford (11 miles)

Easy day with our first bit of elevation change over a few rolling hills. Quite pleasant and never overly difficult. Treaded a few overgrown trails, but overall a nice mix of pavement and rocky/dirt pathways.

The highlight of this stage was certainly the abundance of pubs (the TRUE “Church of England” I think ) providing a Camino stamp and a drink or two... The churches along the way with stamps were a mixed bag of open and closed. I appreciate the work the CDJ has put into getting buy-in from these sites along the way. Well done!

Today was the last of basically following the established “Itchen Way” so we look forward to a change in waymarking and geography tomorrow.

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 5: New Alresford - Dummer (14 miles)

Quite a change from previous days as we had some sections of rolling hills to traverse as well as several agricultural fields. As this section does not follow the extremely well-signposted Itchen Way, it was harder to keep exactly on the Camino route (especially in reversed!).

Definitely a day to carry extra water and food as there was a 10 mile section with zero services (not even water).
First the Purefoy Arms turns out to be closed Sundays/Mondays, but then upon arrival in Dummer, we then found that the only pub there was closed after 3pm on Mondays . Fortunately, a second pub was only two miles away, buts it’s not at all on the track.

On the plus side, the churches with stamps were all open and a delight to visit, especially the c1150 Church of St James - a relic from when the Way of St James was really hopping!

 

[dougfitz]

Day 5: New Alresford - Dummer (14 miles)

Quite a change from previous days as we had some sections of rolling hills to traverse as well as several agricultural fields. As this section does not follow the extremely well-signposted Itchen Way, it was harder to keep exactly on the Camino route (especially in reversed!).

Definitely a day to carry extra water and food as there was a 10 mile section with zero services (not even water).
First the Purefoy Arms turns out to be closed Sundays/Mondays, but then upon arrival in Dummer, we then found that the only pub there was closed after 3pm on Mondays . Fortunately, a second pub was only two miles away, buts it’s not at all on the track.

On the plus side, the churches with stamps were all open and a delight to visit, especially the c1150 Church of St James - a relic from when the Way of St James was really hopping!

Interesting photo of the church interior with an earlier decorative motif emerging through the whitewash. I saw something similar on the Gudbrandsdalen in Norway, where the Norse church has been whitewashing over earlier, Catholic, decorations for centuries. It raised the question for those church communities whether theological purism should over-ride exposing and sharing medieval art what would otherwise be banned as church decoration.

 

[Vacajoe]

It certainly raised questions for us as the only info provided was that they were rediscovered in 1935. No history of when or why they were covered.

 

[dougfitz]

It certainly raised questions for us as the only info provided was that they were rediscovered in 1935. No history of when or why they were covered.

I understand that the Norse Church whitewashed over the earlier decorative art in older churches when it was formed in the early 16th Century, in line with implementing other elements of Lutheranism. I don't know when or why it might have been done in England. I have been to Anglican churches elsewhere where this earlier decorative art is now being exposed, restored and preserved. In others, it's not clear that the pre-16th Century decorations weren't kept intact, but I am no expert here and just enjoy the experience of exploring some of these wonderful buildings that have seen so much change over their lifetimes.

 

[Vacajoe]

Have you been to the art museum in Jaca, Spain? They salvaged wall paintings from crumbling churches throughout the Aragon Valley by chemically transferring them onto linens. It’s an incredible process and the results are truly amazing.

 

[dougfitz]

No, but I think that would be fascinating to see.

 

[The Cumbrian]

It was great to meet you two today in The Fox and Hounds. I never expected to be wished "buen camino" here in England, and it was much appreciated.
I hope that you made it to the end without incident, and that you're now enjoying a celebratory meal and a few drinks.

 

[Vacajoe]

It was great to meet you two today in The Fox and Hounds. I never expected to be wished "buen camino" here in England, and it was much appreciated.
I hope that you made it to the end without incident, and that you're now enjoying a celebratory meal and a few drinks.

You found me! I rarely blog, but wanted to capture this route for those coming next - like you! Reached Redding and had that drink! Hope you can do the same in Southampton next week. Cheers!

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 6: Dummer - Tadley (12 miles)

Although it’s not on the marked Camino route, we had to divert to Tadley due to the lack of accommodations in this area. Leslie (ourhost at Apple Tree Place B&B) was interested in the CSJ and possibly adapting a room or a backyard tent into a pilgrim albergue of some sort. Until then, it’s worth a stay if you are having the same issues we faced.

Assorted day with a lot of field walking and churches, but ending on a very busy road into Tadley. The Roman Road which skirts the outside of Basingstoke is interesting in its history and relatively straight direction, but it’s been paved over so many times that it’s hard to feel the history under one’s feet. There is little in the way of food or drinks on this stage unless you divert from the prescribed path; if you have a mapping program, you’ll find multiple Tescos, fast food shops, pubs, etc just a short way off the path, but you’ll never see them from the trail.

In terms of distance and terrain, this was by far the easiest day for us.

 

[Vacajoe]

Day 7: Tadley - Reading (17 miles)

A tough day with a lot of hard-surface walking (tarmac, stone, cement). Coupled with the disappointment of not finding a stamp at two places advertised as having them (Horse and Groom, St Marys Sulhamstead) and a really dangerous road section between Mortimer and Sulhamstead Abbot, it started out a bit of a downer. BTW, that dangerous section is NOT the waymarked route, but it is the path shown on the British Pilgrimage Trust. Follow the marks if you can.

One advantage of walking from Tadley is that the route to Silchester is through a fabulous forest preserve - probably the most beautiful area of this Camino. Although we missed the church in Bramley, the trade-off was worth it. Also, be sure to devote some time to the Roman ruins, including taking a short detour to view the amphitheater and city walls. Truly amazing. The church there is also nice - don’t miss the stamp in the outer entryway!

However, the Camino became much brighter as we ran into our first Pilgrim!!! (The Cumbrian who dropped a note previously on this stream). Always great to meet someone else who values pilgrimage as much as we do! Buen Camino! After the Fox and Hounds, the trail follows the towpath of the River Kennet all the way into Reading and near to the Abbey ruins. It’s a delightful walk with a pub halfway and plenty of canal boats to admire. I even had a chance to operate a lock so that the sole occupant of one could stay aboard and guide it through the passage. I always love when travel presents a new opportunity to not only learn, but also to provide a kind, helping hand to a complete stranger.

After seven days of small villages, it’s nice to be in a big city again (with a chance to machine wash our clothes!)

 

[Vacajoe]

DAY 8: Reading (CAMINO SUMMARY)

We walked 101 miles in 7 days, starting in Portsmouth, walking two days to Southampton, and then following the St James Path to Reading. Although the guides say it’s 66 to 68 miles, you’ll definitely walk more than that when you have to go “off trail” to reach food and lodging in some stages. We spent 60£ to 120£ per night for accommodations, most of which provided excellent breakfasts. There are no “pilgrim” accommodations along the way, so the cost of sleeping is the biggest hurdle to this route.

We found the route somewhat easy to follow in reverse, so I would expect those walking north to south should have little difficulty finding the way. I still suggest a mapping app, though, to track down food, stores, stamp locations, and lodging.

We averaged 15 miles a day and probably should have slowed that a bit so we could enjoy more time in each city. I think staying OUTSIDE of Winchester is better than in the city as we showed up after everything had closed and then left as things were opening, missing seeing the town at its busy best. The sung mass at the cathedral is lovely if you have the time.

Reading is also worth a day for visiting. The museum has a great display on the Abbey as well as some city history, plus they have a pilgrim stamp and a copy of the CSJ guidebook for sale. The Catholic Mass at St James was moving as it was the conclusion of our journey and the priest and his seminarian were very kind and generous with their time. We discussed our journey and received a stamp and a blessing. There is also a stained glass window of St James there plus a statuary nook with hand-painted scenes from his life.

Overall I think it’s an excellent route for all to walk, but especially those headed to the Camino Ingles. Reading is easily reached by train from all directions and you can catch the ferry to Spain at the shore. What a glorious way to walk to Santiago!

Thank you to the CSJ for their guidebook and waymarking. And a HUGE thank you to the people of southern England who were nothing but kind every step of our way.

 

[Gavala]

Well done and I'm pleased you enjoyed the walk. You had some good weather!

 

[Vacajoe]

Yes, rain on the first day for about 30 minutes but then it was lovely. This week will be worse due to the rain and humidity.

 

[dick bird]

I understand that the Norse Church whitewashed over the earlier decorative art in older churches when it was formed in the early 16th Century, in line with implementing other elements of Lutheranism. I don't know when or why it might have been done in England. I have been to Anglican churches elsewhere where this earlier decorative art is now being exposed, restored and preserved. In others, it's not clear that the pre-16th Century decorations weren't kept intact, but I am no expert here and just enjoy the experience of exploring some of these wonderful buildings that have seen so much change over their lifetimes.

Probably in Cromwell's time, i.e. mid 17th century. The Roundheads were enthusiastic iconoclasts and took especial delight in smashing stained glass and knocking the heads off statues. Many English churches still bear the scars. Well-meaning but clumsy 19th century attempts at restoration may have exacerbated the effects.

 

[tommycamino]

Thanks for sharing. Currently investigating doing this.

 

[Vacajoe]

I plan to “finish” this journey the first weekend of March by walking from Reading to London on the Thames Walk.

 

[Walktheway]

A little late to this thread. I'm thinking of walking different sections of the Reading to Southampton way over different weekends in August and September this year (2023) and then the Camino Ingles next May (2024). Does anyone know if there is a time limit for me to complete the route to get my certificate at Santiago?

 

[Bradypus]

Does anyone know if there is a time limit for me to complete the route to get my certificate at Santiago?

There is no time limit. Many people walk in stages over a number of years.

 

[Vacajoe]

UPDATE: finished this route in March 2023 by walking Reading to London on the Thames Path (posted separately). This final journey took several days of flat walking, mostly along the Thames but I did go off-path when it shortened the route. This section passes through Windsor, Hampton Court, Richmond, and more iconic locations. Cheaper accommodations since there was more choice, but still expensive in pilgrim terms. Definitely worth “finishing” the London to Southampton route.

 

[B1nky]

A great write up, thanks for taking the time to share your experiences and photos.

It's interesting to see where you'd started and finished each day, I'm considering doing the St. James Way as a series of day/weekends walks, returning by public transport as I live fairly close to the Northern section, but the guidebook's suggestion of finishing a day in Upper Wield leaves one in an area with zero public transport options. I'd considered camping that section but the one campsite that's just of the trail (Barton View) appears to be for Camping and Caravan Club members only and I can't find any contact details to check if a non member with a tent would be welcome for one night.

It's also a little disappointing to hear that 2 of the stamps were unavailable already, it wouldn't be so much of a concern in a part of the world where stamps were more common. I wonder how strict the stamp requirements are to get a certificate at the end of this walk.

It's also interesting to hear that a B&B is interested in the CSJ and the possibility of providing basic pilgrim accommodation. I had wondered if a series of bookable rooms/tents/shelters would be a simple way of starting a network of places to stay.

I've also walked the section of The Thames Path that you walked and enjoyed it very much. The only section I have yet to complete is from Oxford to the source.

Binky