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Stage 1: Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira > Considerations

Diogo92

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Português 2013, 2014
C. de Fátima 2014
C. do Salnés 2015
Being a member from this Forum for almost two years, made me realize that, there was a lot of people who complaint about the Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira leg. With two rest days this week, I've contacted my best friend, and we decided to make this stage on Thursday the 29th. And so it was.

We started at 07:33AM, at the Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa), navigating with our Garmin eTrex20 GPS system (and using this track has a model: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=4045889), the arrows and the The Confraternity of Saint James guide, which you can get here in the Forum or in Via Lusitana website.

10967163_891149577582082_1734831652_o.jpg

Most of the complaints here in the Forum were about the amount of km that you have to walk in tarmac, with cars passing near you. To be very honest, and after walking it and doing the math, probably from the total km's from the stage, you will walk only 25% from it on tarmac (no more than that, 10km of tarmac), being the worst part from Alverca to Alhandra.

The stage itsel it's very beautiful, mostly because of the new markings that were made by the Associação dos Amigos do Caminho de Fátima and Via Lusitana, between July and November of last year. You walk a lot of time, following water courses (River Tagus and River Trancão, and also some creeks), being able to watch a lot of birds (mostly egrets during this time of the year, but also some sparrows, pigeons and some mallards).

10958986_891149570915416_1718745147_o.jpg

10969331_891149614248745_529037096_o.jpg

10967420_891149607582079_983642065_o.jpg

I believe that the difficulties from the stage are the lenght of it (41km. We have done some detours, so we walked more than that, 45km at least) and the conditions from the fields, between Sacavém and Forte da Casa. The lenght it's an issue, mostly because with the new markings, you don't have access to a lof of infrastructures like places to eat/drink, or to sleep.

Taking pilgrims out from the tarmac it's very good, however the state of the fields can make things worse. The biggest portuguese aquifer it's located under the Tagus bay, where the Caminho Português pass. Which means that, even if it doesn't rain for some time, you might find swamp like terrain, because of the water saturation from the fields. We had a very temperated summer, which means that most of the water from the fields, didn't evaporated, creating bogs on fields and mud very similar to moving sand.

There is also a tricky pass, over a colapsed brigde, in which you must be careful.

10965222_891149587582081_2069398921_o.jpg

Although all of this, we enjoyed it a lot. Even with my right foot wet from the bogs (I took my Hi Tec Figaro trail shoes, no waterproof membrane), we still had a lot of fun. In the end, with almost 5km to go, we kept pushing and pushing, ingnoring pain, and lifting each other moral. It totally compensanted all the effort from the day. 10 hours (2:30H from stops), 45km, but a smile in the face, knowing that mission was accomplished.

So, if you intend to start from Lisbon, go for it. You don't have to be affraid from the tarmac. But consider the total distance that you have to do. I advise you to split this stage in two, by sleeping in Pousada da Juventude de Moscavide, 9km from the Lisbon Cathedral, or to walk until Póvoa or Alverca, come back by train, and walk the rest on the other day. If you think that it's still too much, take a suburban train and jump some part of the section. But trust me, you will lose a great part of it.

Tracklog: http://pt.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8770632

Pictures credits: @Kosho

Bom Caminho!
 
Last edited:
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that is great news Diogo - that there is now much less tarmac walking! and how kind of you to walk the entire route for this first-hand and first-feet experience report! Obrigado.
the wooden boardwalks are a breeze to walk ... easy on the feet. - thanks for the photo as well. saluti , c
 
Thank you, Diogo. This is very useful. I will definitely need to cut that section into two or three days. It took me 50 days to walk the Frances, as I love to walk slow and enjoy. You also answered another of my questions, about the need/usefulness of poles as it is mostly a flat route from what I read. It seems like it might be useful to take poles anyway, including for the occasional dog.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I remember that bridge just outside Sacavèm .

Good you tried this out and published it here with great pics !

Explore the other parts up to Porto I should say and publish them.

Um abraço deste lado
 
that is great news Diogo - that there is now much less tarmac walking! and how kind of you to walk the entire route for this first-hand and first-feet experience report! Obrigado.
the wooden boardwalks are a breeze to walk ... easy on the feet. - thanks for the photo as well. saluti , c

We wanted to do this a long time ago, but never had chance. But now it's done :D

Thank you, Diogo. This is very useful. I will definitely need to cut that section into two or three days. It took me 50 days to walk the Frances, as I love to walk slow and enjoy. You also answered another of my questions, about the need/usefulness of poles as it is mostly a flat route from what I read. It seems like it might be useful to take poles anyway, including for the occasional dog.

Poles are always a must ;)

I remember that bridge just outside Sacavèm .

Good you tried this out and published it here with great pics !

Explore the other parts up to Porto I should say and publish them.

Um abraço deste lado

We are considering doing the part untill Santarém this year, since my best friend has only done it via the National Road. I've already done it last year, when I went to Fátima.
 
We wanted to do this a long time ago, but never had chance. But now it's done :D



Poles are always a must ;)



We are considering doing the part untill Santarém this year, since my best friend has only done it via the National Road. I've already done it last year, when I went to Fátima.
From your place to Santarèm is a distance such as "you are smoking 2 cigarettes...if you smoke :) It is round the corner !
 
Last edited:
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From your place to Santarèm is a distance of " you are smoking 2 cigarettes...if you smoke :) It is round the corner !

I don't smoke :D

2 or 3 stages, depending of what you want to walk per day ;)
 
Join our full-service guided tour of the Basque Country and let us pamper you!
Fascinating trip, Diogo.
I didn't start from the Cathedral, but walked straight off the plane at the airport and headed north :).
I didn't find the roads a problem - there were footpaths much of the way.
My first stop was in Santa Iria [15kms].
The second day was Santa Iria to Vilafranca de Xira where I stayed in the excellent Flora Residential. [16 kms]
My distances pale into insignificance compared to yours!
Bom caminho, amigo!
 
Fascinating trip, Diogo.
I didn't start from the Cathedral, but walked straight off the plane at the airport and headed north :).
I didn't find the roads a problem - there were footpaths much of the way.
My first stop was in Santa Iria [15kms].
The second day was Santa Iria to Vilafranca de Xira where I stayed in the excellent Flora Residential. [16 kms]
My distances pale into insignificance compared to yours!
Bom caminho, amigo!

We are making ourselves to improve our muscles resistance, since we are going to do a 2 day hike in authonomy. That's why we are going crazy doing things like this :D
 
:)
Fascinating trip, Diogo.
I didn't start from the Cathedral, but walked straight off the plane at the airport and headed north :).
I didn't find the roads a problem - there were footpaths much of the way.
My first stop was in Santa Iria [15kms].
The second day was Santa Iria to Vilafranca de Xira where I stayed in the excellent Flora Residential. [16 kms]
My distances pale into insignificance compared to yours!
Bom caminho, amigo!
So you missed the delicious pasteís de nata my friend ! Specialidade de Lisboa.:)
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
:)
So you missed the delicious pasteís de nata my friend ! Specialidade de Lisboa.:)

Pasteis de Belém? Those are, errr, bad :p

You can eat Pasteis de Nata in every cafe in Portugal. For me, the best ones, are in the North :)
 
Pasteis de Belém? Those are, errr, bad :p

You can eat Pasteis de Nata in every cafe in Portugal. For me, the best ones, are in the North :)
You are the connaisseur my dear friend ! I agree with you we had ums pasteis muitos saborosos in the north.
A pity untill now you did not receive my parcel with a.o. goudse stroopwafels. A speciality from the low lands here.
Traga ums para você proxima vez quando encontaremos !

Um abraço deste lado dos países baixos
 
You are the connaisseur my dear friend ! I agree with you we had ums pasteis muitos saborosos in the north.
A pity untill now you did not receive my parcel with a.o. goudse stroopwafels. A speciality from the low lands here.
Traga ums para você proxima vez quando encontaremos !

Um abraço deste lado dos países baixos

And now I understand why! Those customs services are eating my goudse stroopwafels :mad:
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
Pasteis de Belém? Those are, errr, bad :p You can eat Pasteis de Nata in every cafe in Portugal. For me, the best ones, are in the North :)
I absolutely LOVE Lisbon! Especially the castle of St. George. I returned there, after reaching Porto, and spent three happy days in Lisbon, and walked to the Belem tower and back: next time I must look out for the Pasteis de Belem!
 
I absolutely LOVE Lisbon! Especially the castle of St. George. I returned there, after reaching Porto, and spent three happy days in Lisbon, and walked to the Belem tower and back: next time I must look out for the Pasteis de Belem!
Opposite the Torre de Belèm and the stop of the tram is the famous bakery of pasteís de Belèm but our Portugese friend told me they are only tourist's favourites . We better can drink a beer in the Casino Café in Santiago !
I tell you when we are there I will keep a seat free for you :p
 
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Fascinating trip, Diogo.
I didn't start from the Cathedral, but walked straight off the plane at the airport and headed north :).
I didn't find the roads a problem - there were footpaths much of the way.
My first stop was in Santa Iria [15kms].
The second day was Santa Iria to Vilafranca de Xira where I stayed in the excellent Flora Residential. [16 kms]
My distances pale into insignificance compared to yours!
Bom caminho, amigo!
Hi Stephen - where did you stay in Santa Iria?
 
Thank you for these notes about this stage. I am starting tomorrow from Lisbon.

Another thing, there are a lot of drug addicts and street hustlers in Lisbon. It is a function of de criminalization of "personal use" drugs. I have been offered drugs literally a dozen times today, and I arrived at the airport at noon! I spent a good part of today walking around Barrio Alta, Alfambra, Rossio and Moniz neighborhoods. It was mostly annoying, not threatening.

Lisbon is a very beautiful city.

Being a member from this Forum for almost two years, made me realize that, there was a lot of people who complaint about the Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira leg. With two rest days this week, I've contacted my best friend, and we decided to make this stage on Thursday the 29th. And so it was.

We started at 07:33AM, at the Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa), navigating with our Garmin eTrex20 GPS system (and using this track has a model: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=4045889), the arrows and the The Confraternity of Saint James guide, which you can get here in the Forum or in Via Lusitana website.

View attachment 16105

Most of the complaints here in the Forum were about the amount of km that you have to walk in tarmac, with cars passing near you. To be very honest, and after walking it and doing the math, probably from the total km's from the stage, you will walk only 25% from it on tarmac (no more than that, 10km of tarmac), being the worst part from Alverca to Alhandra.

The stage itsel it's very beautiful, mostly because of the new markings that were made by the Associação dos Amigos do Caminho de Fátima and Via Lusitana, between July and November of last year. You walk a lot of time, following water courses (River Tagus and River Trancão, and also some creeks), being able to watch a lot of birds (mostly egrets during this time of the year, but also some sparrows, pigeons and some mallards).

View attachment 16106

View attachment 16107

View attachment 16108

I believe that the difficulties from the stage are the lenght of it (41km. We have done some detours, so we walked more than that, 45km at least) and the conditions from the fields, between Sacavém and Forte da Casa. The lenght it's an issue, mostly because with the new markings, you don't have access to a lof of infrastructures like places to eat/drink, or to sleep.

Taking pilgrims out from the tarmac it's very good, however the state of the fields can make things worse. The biggest portuguese aquifer it's located under the Tagus bay, where the Caminho Português pass. Which means that, even if it doesn't rain for some time, you might find swamp like terrain, because of the water saturation from the fields. We had a very temperated summer, which means that most of the water from the fields, didn't evaporated, creating bogs on fields and mud very similar to moving sand.

There is also a tricky pass, over a colapsed brigde, in which you must be careful.

View attachment 16104

Although all of this, we enjoyed it a lot. Even with my right foot wet from the bogs (I took my Hi Tec Figaro trail shoes, no waterproof membrane), we still had a lot of fun. In the end, with almost 5km to go, we kept pushing and pushing, ingnoring pain, and lifting each other moral. It totally compensanted all the effort from the day. 10 hours (2:30H from stops), 45km, but a smile in the face, knowing that mission was accomplished.

So, if you intend to start from Lisbon, go for it. You don't have to be affraid from the tarmac. But consider the total distance that you have to do. I advise you to split this stage in two, by sleeping in Pousada da Juventude de Moscavide, 9km from the Lisbon Cathedral, or to walk until Póvoa or Alverca, come back by train, and walk the rest on the other day. If you think that it's still too much, take a suburban train and jump some part of the section. But trust me, you will lose a great part of it.

Tracklog: http://pt.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8770632

Pictures credits: @Kosho

Bom Caminho!
 
Just completed my first day out of Lisboa. I made it to Povoa, and discovered that Brierly's map places the Povoa rail station in the wrong place! The Povoa station is South of the bridge that goes over the railway. It's about 1.5 km south of that bridge and maybe 2.5 km south of where the icon sits on the map.
I walked from Ingreja Santiago to Povoa and took a train back to S. Apolonia in Lisbon. Heading back to Povoa today (and have to retrace several KM )!!!!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Just completed my first day out of Lisboa. I made it to Povoa, and discovered that Brierly's map places the Povoa rail station in the wrong place! The Povoa station is South of the bridge that goes over the railway. It's about 1.5 km south of that bridge and maybe 2.5 km south of where the icon sits on the map.
I walked from Ingreja Santiago to Povoa and took a train back to S. Apolonia in Lisbon. Heading back to Povoa today (and have to retrace several KM )!!!!
Bom caminho. Enjoy it ! To start in Lisbon is great. We loved it.
 
Hi Stephen - where did you stay in Santa Iria?
"Miratejo" My diary says "I kept my eyes open for the hotel. There was a restaurant with the same name, but no sign of the hotel. I had to ask several locals, and was misdirected twice resulting in an extra 3 kms - and finally turned back to that restaurant with 'the same name'. It was NOT a hotel - just a few very small rooms above the restaurant. I'd planned to book in for the return journey as well - but no way..." so I certainly couldn't recommend it!
I hope you manage some better accommodation, amigo!
 
"Miratejo" My diary says "I kept my eyes open for the hotel. There was a restaurant with the same name, but no sign of the hotel. I had to ask several locals, and was misdirected twice resulting in an extra 3 kms - and finally turned back to that restaurant with 'the same name'. It was NOT a hotel - just a few very small rooms above the restaurant. I'd planned to book in for the return journey as well - but no way..." so I certainly couldn't recommend it!
I hope you manage some better accommodation, amigo!
If you head south from the roundabout on the N-10 in Povoa there are several restaurants where you could ask about a cuarto.
Being a member from this Forum for almost two years, made me realize that, there was a lot of people who complaint about the Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira leg. With two rest days this week, I've contacted my best friend, and we decided to make this stage on Thursday the 29th. And so it was.

We started at 07:33AM, at the Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa), navigating with our Garmin eTrex20 GPS system (and using this track has a model: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=4045889), the arrows and the The Confraternity of Saint James guide, which you can get here in the Forum or in Via Lusitana website.

View attachment 16105

Most of the complaints here in the Forum were about the amount of km that you have to walk in tarmac, with cars passing near you. To be very honest, and after walking it and doing the math, probably from the total km's from the stage, you will walk only 25% from it on tarmac (no more than that, 10km of tarmac), being the worst part from Alverca to Alhandra.

The stage itsel it's very beautiful, mostly because of the new markings that were made by the Associação dos Amigos do Caminho de Fátima and Via Lusitana, between July and November of last year. You walk a lot of time, following water courses (River Tagus and River Trancão, and also some creeks), being able to watch a lot of birds (mostly egrets during this time of the year, but also some sparrows, pigeons and some mallards).

View attachment 16106

View attachment 16107

View attachment 16108

I believe that the difficulties from the stage are the lenght of it (41km. We have done some detours, so we walked more than that, 45km at least) and the conditions from the fields, between Sacavém and Forte da Casa. The lenght it's an issue, mostly because with the new markings, you don't have access to a lof of infrastructures like places to eat/drink, or to sleep.

Taking pilgrims out from the tarmac it's very good, however the state of the fields can make things worse. The biggest portuguese aquifer it's located under the Tagus bay, where the Caminho Português pass. Which means that, even if it doesn't rain for some time, you might find swamp like terrain, because of the water saturation from the fields. We had a very temperated summer, which means that most of the water from the fields, didn't evaporated, creating bogs on fields and mud very similar to moving sand.

There is also a tricky pass, over a colapsed brigde, in which you must be careful.

View attachment 16104

Although all of this, we enjoyed it a lot. Even with my right foot wet from the bogs (I took my Hi Tec Figaro trail shoes, no waterproof membrane), we still had a lot of fun. In the end, with almost 5km to go, we kept pushing and pushing, ingnoring pain, and lifting each other moral. It totally compensanted all the effort from the day. 10 hours (2:30H from stops), 45km, but a smile in the face, knowing that mission was accomplished.

So, if you intend to start from Lisbon, go for it. You don't have to be affraid from the tarmac. But consider the total distance that you have to do. I advise you to split this stage in two, by sleeping in Pousada da Juventude de Moscavide, 9km from the Lisbon Cathedral, or to walk until Póvoa or Alverca, come back by train, and walk the rest on the other day. If you think that it's still too much, take a suburban train and jump some part of the section. But trust me, you will lose a great part of it.

Tracklog: http://pt.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8770632

Pictures credits: @Kosho

Bom Caminho!
Lisboa to Alverca is pleasant, for the most part. The "bad stretch" is between Alverca and Alhambra along the N-10 and then again between Villa Nova de Reinha and Azambuja. Around Alhambra there is a very narrow shoulder on the road. From Villa Nova to Azambuja is a slog through industrial (smelled like plastic). After Azambuja it is very peaceful.
 
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If you head south from the roundabout on the N-10 in Povoa there are several restaurants where you could ask about a cuarto.

Lisboa to Alverca is pleasant, for the most part. The "bad stretch" is between Alverca and Alhambra along the N-10 and then again between Villa Nova de Reinha and Azambuja. Around Alhambra there is a very narrow shoulder on the road. From Villa Nova to Azambuja is a slog through industrial (smelled like plastic). After Azambuja it is very peaceful.
Hope everybody understands the word"cuarto". :D
A bedroom in Portugese

A"cama "is a bed and a " cama matrimonia " is a double bed

Bom caminho
 
Hope everybody understands the word"cuarto". :D
A bedroom in Portugese

A"cama "is a bed and a " cama matrimonia " is a double bed

Bom caminho
It's cuarto in Mexican Spanish, too. Remembering to say "habitacion" was one of those adaptation things for us.
 
"Miratejo" My diary says "I kept my eyes open for the hotel. There was a restaurant with the same name, but no sign of the hotel. I had to ask several locals, and was misdirected twice resulting in an extra 3 kms - and finally turned back to that restaurant with 'the same name'. It was NOT a hotel - just a few very small rooms above the restaurant. I'd planned to book in for the return journey as well - but no way..." so I certainly couldn't recommend it!
I hope you manage some better accommodation, amigo!
Eh, a room above a bar is okay. So long as it has a bathroom! There are loads of rooms like that in Spain, too, and as long as you can go back to sleep quick when the drunks wander by on the street below, they're fine. In Pamplona, we paid 20 euro for one. Turned out to be the happening street in town on Thursday night, the last drunks wandered home at 0500. At 0530 we woke to walk. :)
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Oh! Texas! I have NO problem with nice rooms over a bar - especially if they're en-suite. Love 'em. But not that particular place which was advertised as a "hotel" and was a rather scruffy restaurant with surly staff. As my diary says "It was a very sparse room and nowhere to sit and relax in the room or anywhere outside....."
 
.... As my diary says "It was a very sparse room and nowhere to sit and relax in the room or anywhere outside....."
Just found this photo of the room, Texas! You have to admit it's VERY cramped and bare. The worst thing was nowhere to relax, not even in the restaurant grounds outside.
DSCF4331.JPG DSCF4331.JPG
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Metro station in Povoa. I looped back via metro to Lisboa and then back to Povoa the next day.
 

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