Start at Povoa de Varzim?

[Mariya]

Hi All,

I'm thinking about doing Camino de Santiago from Porto. I noticed that it's possible to go by metro up to Povoa de Varzim. Did anyone use this opportunity? Is it difficult to find the Camino after getting off the train?
So far my plan is:
Porto - Povoa de Varzim-Esposende
Esposende - Viana do Castelo
Viana do Castelo - Ponte de Lima
Ponte de Lima - Rubiaes
Rubiaes - Valenca
Valenca - Redondela
Redondela - Pontevedra
Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis
Caldas de Reis - A Picarana
A Picarana - Santiago de Compostela
Do you think this plan is OK for a not trained person? Also I'm going alone. Is there any chance to meet pilgrims on my way in April?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hello Marya, and welcome to the Forum.

It is possible to start in PdeV, but let me ask you why you are thinking of doing so. Is it to avoid the ugly subburbs of Porto? Or because you are short on time to walk from Porto?

Of you are short on time, then it is what it is. But if you have 2 extra days I would suggest you walk from downtown Porto to Matosinhos (10km) on the first day and then to Vila do Conde, on the beach, on day 2. On evening 1 you could stay in a pension in Matoshinos or head back to downtown Porto by metro or bus and enjoy the afternoon/evening visiting more of Porto. The walk to Matosinhos is a lovely touristy walk on the other bank of the Douro, giving you lovely views of Porto, and a walk through the port wine makers warehouses. You would also cross the Douro by foot on the Eiffel bridge.

Another alternative is to walk past Matosinhos on day 1 to the Angeiras albergue/camp site, about 20km.

To add to your confusion, again if you have a couple more days, consider the Variante Espiritual, which you take 2 or 3 km after Pontevedra. It is a nice route, which includes a visit to the Poio monastery amd to the gorgeous fishing town on Combarro, and then a hike to the Armenteira monastery with the most beautiful 6km ever, following the Ruta de Piedra & Agua, a walk in thw woods following a small river with all the ruins of passed mills. It is like a movie set for enchanted story film. It ends after a noat ride just outside of Padron where you link up with the regular route you habe plotted.

I hope this helps a bit, amd doesn't just add to the confusion.

 

[jsalt]

Hi Mariya, welcome to the forum!

Is it difficult to find the Camino after getting off the train?

Looks perfectly feasible to do this and not difficult. Exit the metro station and head towards the town centre. If you don’t pick up the yellow arrows in town, keep going towards the sea, and then turn right along the coast – you’ll soon find yourself on the caminho.

Viana do Castelo - Ponte de Lima

As far as I’m aware there is no caminho path from Viana do Castelo to Ponte de Lima. It’s about 30kms by road. You could take a bus.
Jill

 

[mspath]

For more re walking between VdC and PdL see this earlier thread-- https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...een-viana-do-castelo-and-ponte-de-lima.35898/

Bom Caminho!

 

[Doogman]

This past summer I took the metro to Matosinhos (Mercado stop). From there I walked to Povoa de Varzim on the first day. As suggested by @Anemone del Camino, if you have the time, the walk from Porto along the river and up the coast to Matosinhos would be a good choice as well.

The more traditional stop between Caldas de Reis and SdC is Padron. It is a nice town. I do not recall A Picarana. Obviously nothing says you need to stop at Padron, but I think that is where you will find most of the pilgrims. Have fun!

 

[Walker-Brother]

Funnily enough I started at Povoa de Varzim when I did the Portuguese Coastal in 2013.

It saves you a day if you are pushed for time as it's at the northern end of the Porto metro-system which I presume is why you're doing it?

Took the more "traditional" route up the coast via Caminha-Oia-Baiona-Vigo-Redondela.

But whatever floats your boat, it's your camino.

Looking forward to having a crack at the Primitivo in May.

 

[jsalt]

Also I'm going alone. Is there any chance to meet pilgrims on my way in April?

Hi, yes, you will meet pilgrims in April between Ponte de Lima and Santiago. Not so many between Povoa and Viana. Jill

 

[Mariya]

Hello Marya, and welcome to the Forum.

It is possible to start in PdeV, but let me ask you why you are thinking of doing so. Is it to avoid the ugly subburbs of Porto? Or because you are short on time to walk from Porto?

Of you are short on time, then it is what it is. But if you have 2 extra days I would suggest you walk from downtown Porto to Matosinhos (10km) on the first day and then to Vila do Conde, on the beach, on day 2. On evening 1 you could stay in a pension in Matoshinos or head back to downtown Porto by metro or bus and enjoy the afternoon/evening visiting more of Porto. The walk to Matosinhos is a lovely touristy walk on the other bank of the Douro, giving you lovely views of Porto, and a walk through the port wine makers warehouses. You would also cross the Douro by foot on the Eiffel bridge.

Another alternative is to walk past Matosinhos on day 1 to the Angeiras albergue/camp site, about 20km.

To add to your confusion, again if you have a couple more days, consider the Variante Espiritual, which you take 2 or 3 km after Pontevedra. It is a nice route, which includes a visit to the Poio monastery amd to the gorgeous fishing town on Combarro, and then a hike to the Armenteira monastery with the most beautiful 6km ever, following the Ruta de Piedra & Agua, a walk in thw woods following a small river with all the ruins of passed mills. It is like a movie set for enchanted story film. It ends after a noat ride just outside of Padron where you link up with the regular route you habe plotted.

I hope this helps a bit, amd doesn't just add to the confusion.

Thank you very much for such a detailed answer. And sorry for a lot of questions that I have now

Your words made me think about it and, yes, you're right, if it's a nice walk along the river in Porto, there is no sense to use metro. Is this way along the river marked while still in Porto?
And it will allow me to shift to the Central route earlier - walking from Villa do Conde to Vilarinho.

I also wanted to ask you about Variante Espirituale: is it doable for a not really trained person? And is it possible to make it in 3 days? Also I'm a little worried about the boat: I read somewhere here that sometimes people don't get on the boat. As I'll have a long way home right at the time of official holidays, I'll have air tickets booked beforehand and will not be able to change them. Do you know if there is a chance not to get on the boat on the day when it's needed?

 

[Mariya]

Hi Mariya, welcome to the forum!



Looks perfectly feasible to do this and not difficult. Exit the metro station and head towards the town centre. If you don’t pick up the yellow arrows in town, keep going towards the sea, and then turn right along the coast – you’ll soon find yourself on the caminho.



As far as I’m aware there is no caminho path from Viana do Castelo to Ponte de Lima. It’s about 30kms by road. You could take a bus.
Jill

Hi Jill,
Thanks a lot for your advice. I really need to check the bus routes for the transfer from the Coastal to the Central route.

 

[Mariya]

For more re walking between VdC and PdL see this earlier thread-- https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...een-viana-do-castelo-and-ponte-de-lima.35898/

Bom Caminho!

Thanks a lot! This thread is really useful! I didn't notice it before.

 

[Mariya]

This past summer I took the metro to Matosinhos (Mercado stop). From there I walked to Povoa de Varzim on the first day. As suggested by @Anemone del Camino, if you have the time, the walk from Porto along the river and up the coast to Matosinhos would be a good choice as well.

The more traditional stop between Caldas de Reis and SdC is Padron. It is a nice town. I do not recall A Picarana. Obviously nothing says you need to stop at Padron, but I think that is where you will find most of the pilgrims. Have fun!

Thank you!
I'd love to stay in Padron, but I'm afraid to be late for the Mass in SdC in this case. So have to look for other options with a shorter walk...

 

[Mariya]

Funnily enough I started at Povoa de Varzim when I did the Portuguese Coastal in 2013.

It saves you a day if you are pushed for time as it's at the northern end of the Porto metro-system which I presume is why you're doing it?

Took the more "traditional" route up the coast via Caminha-Oia-Baiona-Vigo-Redondela.

But whatever floats your boat, it's your camino.

Looking forward to having a crack at the Primitivo in May.

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience, that's really useful!
And buen camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Is this way along the river marked while still in Porto?


I also wanted to ask you about Variante Espirituale: is it doable for a not really trained person? And is it possible to make it in 3 . ? Also I'm a little worried about the boat.

The way is not marked from Porto via the other side of the Douro but you just follow along the river, litterally. There is even a boardwalk with holes in it for fishing rods! At one point there is a small dock across the street from a few shops and cafes and that is where to get on a small boat for the 2 nute crossing. I think it's the second dock, one after you pass under a bridge. There will be locals about, so they can tell you which one it is. Don't worry. When you get to the other side jist follow the river, still in the same direction. You will end up at the mouth of the Douro, walking along the ocean.

If you do walk to Vila do Conde, by advice is, from there, do NOT follow the variante along the aquaduct, but the Camino just after crossing the bridge into town, at the foot of the convent. The aquaduct route is not well marked and has you crossing in dangerous trafic.

As for the Variante Espiritual, I started in the morning in Pontevedra, slept in the Armenteira albergue, then in Vilanova de Arousa where I got on the boat in the morning and arrived in Padron around 10am.

The boat. In the Armenteira albergue there is a map on the wall with the phone number for a boat captain. You can call ahead, find out what time they plan on leaving not the next day, but the day after. If time is good (morning) book your spot over the phone. If mareas are such that the boat leaves late afternoon, perhaps you can catch it the very next day. Apparently the people at the pension/cafe at the bottom of the Ruta de Piedra & Agua, O Castano, have driven people to Vilanova de Arousa so they could make an afternoon boat.

At the Vilanova de Arousa they work with only one captain. A different one then the one with the number of the Armenteira map. When I was there the man at the albergue tried to tell me the only boat was in the pm, but I new that was not the case since I had called the night before and knew there would be a morning boat. As by magic all of a sudden their was a morning boat . Don't be afraid to call, and ask questions.

If for some reason you missed the boat, you can walk to Padron, but it's a 28km walk. Doable, bit not as much fun, and then you add an extra day. Of course there is always public transit to Padron, but no Compostela then as it puts you on wheels withing the last 100km before the cathedral.

Here is the Variante info, including flyer/map PDF:
http://www.osalnes.com/ap/es/traslatio/

 

[Camembert]

Hi Mariya, welcome to the forum!



Looks perfectly feasible to do this and not difficult. Exit the metro station and head towards the town centre. If you don’t pick up the yellow arrows in town, keep going towards the sea, and then turn right along the coast – you’ll soon find yourself on the caminho.



As far as I’m aware there is no caminho path from Viana do Castelo to Ponte de Lima. It’s about 30 kms by road. You could take a bus. the
Jill

It is a nasty busy road from Viana do Castelo to Ponte de Lima ,anyway to the connection of the central route in Balugães.Viana to Ponte de Lima isabout 45 kms .
My tip. Walk to Viana do Castelo and take the bus from there to Balugães or the train tô Barroselas (is not the same as Barcelos !!). From the trainstation it is about 5 kms to the waymarked path.
Other tip. Do not walk on to Ponte de Lima but walk from Barroselas about 6 kms to Casa da Fernanda and stay the night there. The best (privat) albergue of the entire caminho Português. It's on the waymarked path. Next day it is 14 kms to Ponte de Lima from there.

 

[Camembert]

Hi All,

I'm thinking about doing Camino de Santiago from Porto. I noticed that it's possible to go by metro up to Povoa de Varzim. Did anyone use this opportunity? Is it difficult to find the Camino after getting off the train?
So far my plan is:
Porto - Povoa de Varzim-Esposende
Esposende - Viana do Castelo
Viana do Castelo - Ponte de Lima
Ponte de Lima - Rubiaes
Rubiaes - Valenca
Valenca - Redondela
Redondela - Pontevedra
Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis
Caldas de Reis - A Picarana
A Picarana - Santiago de Compostela
Do you think this plan is OK for a not trained person? Also I'm going alone. Is there any chance to meet pilgrims on my way in April?

it is easy to get by metro to Póvoa da Varzím. It s the endstation from there one of the metrolines from Porto Centro. You will be there in 25 minutes the station is close by the center of Póvoa da Varzím, about 8 minutes walk to the seaside where you'll find the waymarkers of the coastal Caminho.
The coastal caminho is fairly quiet. But you will head to the central route ,once you will get from Viana do Castelo to Balugães where you will find the waymarkers to Ponte de Lima. See my other comment in this post here above. The central route is more populated.

Thank you very much for such a detailed answer. And sorry for a lot of questions that I have now

Your words made me think about it and, yes, you're right, if it's a nice walk along the river in Porto, there is no sense to use metro. Is this way along the river marked while still in Porto?
And it will allow me to shift to the Central route earlier - walking from Villa do Conde to Vilarinho.

I also wanted to ask you about Variante Espirituale: is it doable for a not really trained person? And is it possible to make it in 3 days? Also I'm a little worried about the boat: I read somewhere here that sometimes people don't get on the boat. As I'll have a long way home right at the time of official holidays, I'll have air tickets booked beforehand and will not be able to change them. Do you know if there is a chance not to get on the boat on the day when it's needed?

you can follow the Douro river in Porto westwards direction Ocean. Just keep the river at your left. There is a sidewalk . As soon as you arrive at the mouth of the river go to the right and keep the ocean at your left and after 4 or 5 kms you'll arrive in Matosinhos.
Head for Vila do Conde allways the ocean at your left. A nice boardwalk.
In VdC there is no need to head for Vilarinho but head for São Pedro de Rates. Then you are on the central route to Pedra Furada ,Barcelos tô Vitorino dos Piães (casa da Fernanda) and Ponte de Lima

 

[Camembert]

Thank you very much for such a detailed answer. And sorry for a lot of questions that I have now

Your words made me think about it and, yes, you're right, if it's a nice walk along the river in Porto, there is no sense to use metro. Is this way along the river marked while still in Porto?
And it will allow me to shift to the Central route earlier - walking from Villa do Conde to Vilarinho.

I also wanted to ask you about Variante Espirituale: is it doable for a not really trained person? And is it possible to make it in 3 days? Also I'm a little worried about the boat: I read somewhere here that sometimes people don't get on the boat. As I'll have a long way home right at the time of official holidays, I'll have air tickets booked beforehand and will not be able to change them. Do you know if there is a chance not to get on the boat on the day when it's needed?

The Variante Espiritual : first day you can walk from Pontevedra to Combarro,
Next day to Armenteira or follow from there the medieval path aos Pedras e os Augas .
Shortly after this path you will find a bar restaurant Os Castanhos where they rent rooms to sleep.Next day it is 14 kms to Vila Nova de Arousa where the boat is to Padrón. Let the lady of os Castanhos call the people of the boat what times it will sail (due to the tides)

 

[Mariya]

The way is not marked from Porto via the other side of the Douro but you just follow along the river, litterally. There is even a boardwalk with holes in it for fishing rods! At one point there is a small dock across the street from a few shops and cafes and that is where to get on a small boat for the 2 nute crossing. I think it's the second dock, one after you pass under a bridge. There will be locals about, so they can tell you which one it is. Don't worry. When you get to the other side jist follow the river, still in the same direction. You will end up at the mouth of the Douro, walking along the ocean.

If you do walk to Vila do Conde, by advice is, from there, do NOT follow the variante along the aquaduct, but the Camino just after crossing the bridge into town, at the foot of the convent. The aquaduct route is not well marked and has you crossing in dangerous trafic.

As for the Variante Espiritual, I started in the morning in Pontevedra, slept in the Armenteira albergue, then in Vilanova de Arousa where I got on the boat in the morning and arrived in Padron around 10am.

The boat. In the Armenteira albergue there is a map on the wall with the phone number for a boat captain. You can call ahead, find out what time they plan on leaving not the next day, but the day after. If time is good (morning) book your spot over the phone. If mareas are such that the boat leaves late afternoon, perhaps you can catch it the very next day. Apparently the people at the pension/cafe at the bottom of the Ruta de Piedra & Agua, O Castano, have driven people to Vilanova de Arousa so they could make an afternoon boat.

At the Vilanova de Arousa they work with only one captain. A different one then the one with the number of the Armenteira map. When I was there the man at the albergue tried to tell me the only boat was in the pm, but I new that was not the case since I had called the night before and knew there would be a morning boat. As by magic all of a sudden their was a morning boat . Don't be afraid to call, and ask questions.

If for some reason you missed the boat, you can walk to Padron, but it's a 28km walk. Doable, bit not as much fun, and then you add an extra day. Of course there is always public transit to Padron, but no Compostela then as it puts you on wheels withing the last 100km before the cathedral.

Here is the Variante info, including flyer/map PDF:
http://www.osalnes.com/ap/es/traslatio/

Thank you for your valuable advice and such a great link!

 

[Mariya]

it is easy to get by metro to Póvoa da Varzím. It s the endstation from there one of the metrolines from Porto Centro. You will be there in 25 minutes the station is close by the center of Póvoa da Varzím, about 8 minutes walk to the seaside where you'll find the waymarkers of the coastal Caminho.
The coastal caminho is fairly quiet. But you will head to the central route ,once you will get from Viana do Castelo to Balugães where you will find the waymarkers to Ponte de Lima. See my other comment in this post here above. The central route is more populated.

you can follow the Douro river in Porto westwards direction Ocean. Just keep the river at your left. There is a sidewalk . As soon as you arrive at the mouth of the river go to the right and keep the ocean at your left and after 4 or 5 kms you'll arrive in Matosinhos.
Head for Vila do Conde allways the ocean at your left. A nice boardwalk.
In VdC there is no need to head for Vilarinho but head for São Pedro de Rates. Then you are on the central route to Pedra Furada ,Barcelos tô Vitorino dos Piães (casa da Fernanda) and Ponte de Lima

Thanks a lot for your comments, they are extremely useful!
Is the road from VdC to São Pedro de Rates walking-friendly - in terms of traffic? I like the idea to get to the Central route from there. Is it easy to find the right way and not to get lost?

 

[Camembert]

Thanks a lot for your comments, they are extremely useful!
Is the road from VdC to São Pedro de Rates walking-friendly - in terms of traffic? I like the idea to get to the Central route from there. Is it easy to find the right way and not to get lost?

The road to São Pedro de Rates is okay. There is an alternative road. I did not walk that one but is described in the Brierley guide.
More tricky it will be between São Pedro de Rates abd Barcelos .around Pedra Furada .big signs warn the car drivers to respect the pilgrims walking aside the road.
Advise walk at the right side towards the upcoming traffic , wear a safety vest and if you walk with poles use them to attent drives you are there .Portuguese are very kind but once behind the steeringwheel they are like devils, thinking the world belong to them.